Depending on how much water was in the tire, it could have used the dynamic balancing phenomena like what Dynabeeds do. So trying to balance them on a machine was never going to be successful.
🛠️ What Have You Done To Your LC250 Today?
- Thread starter pnwlandcruiser_
- Start date
That sucks dirty pond water.
Yes it did. They recalled many of those tires, but mine weren't the right serial numbers, so they just claimed installers were the issue.
Got the Lasfit mats today. Nice touch for them to make caps to cover the anchor points! I also installed their seat back protectors.
I remember a post here or on FB where someone complained about her nail cutting into the interior. Well, the leather on the seats is very fragile. Get this…I pulled up the back seat headrest to loop the cord over/thru of the seat back protectors. I forget how short the head rest rods are in the seat. It popped up and out of both its spot and my hands. The end of the post (they’re rounded) landed on the seat. It didn’t punch thru, but it indented the seat a little and tore the leather…not all the way thru though. I have/had leather on our last few cars/trucks and none of them were so thin that a bump of something tears it…certainly not a light headrest.
I remember a post here or on FB where someone complained about her nail cutting into the interior. Well, the leather on the seats is very fragile. Get this…I pulled up the back seat headrest to loop the cord over/thru of the seat back protectors. I forget how short the head rest rods are in the seat. It popped up and out of both its spot and my hands. The end of the post (they’re rounded) landed on the seat. It didn’t punch thru, but it indented the seat a little and tore the leather…not all the way thru though. I have/had leather on our last few cars/trucks and none of them were so thin that a bump of something tears it…certainly not a light headrest.
That sucks.
I'll probably replace Miss Daisy's leather with Katskinz (?)when it is needed.
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Well, I’m going by the dealership to complain with Toyota. Turns out (likely to save weight) they drilled out the posts for the headrests. The bottoms of them are sharp enough to slice a finger, so it’s no surprise it cut the seat. You can even see the shape of the cut in the seat.
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Finally got around to installing 1.5 inch hub centric wheel spacers on the LC250 last weekend. The factory wheels were sitting way too far inside the arches and now the stance actually matches the boxy body.
I went back and forth between buying new wheels with a better offset or going the spacer route. Ended up with forged wheel spacers because this thing is not light and I did not want to gamble with cast stuff on a Toyota truck platform. Went hub centric too since the LC250 relies on the center bore for balance just like the Tundra and Tacoma do.
Install was straightforward. Jack, jack stands, torque wrench, and about 90 minutes. Torqued everything to spec, drove around the block, then re-torqued after 50 miles.
Before buying I read up on hub centric spacer fitment since the center bore thing gets debated a lot. The guide explains why hub centric matters more than most people think, especially on these heavier Toyota SUVs.
Has anyone else run spacers long term on their LC250? Curious if you noticed any change in steering feel or if the wheel bearings have stayed quiet.
I went back and forth between buying new wheels with a better offset or going the spacer route. Ended up with forged wheel spacers because this thing is not light and I did not want to gamble with cast stuff on a Toyota truck platform. Went hub centric too since the LC250 relies on the center bore for balance just like the Tundra and Tacoma do.
Install was straightforward. Jack, jack stands, torque wrench, and about 90 minutes. Torqued everything to spec, drove around the block, then re-torqued after 50 miles.
Before buying I read up on hub centric spacer fitment since the center bore thing gets debated a lot. The guide explains why hub centric matters more than most people think, especially on these heavier Toyota SUVs.
Has anyone else run spacers long term on their LC250? Curious if you noticed any change in steering feel or if the wheel bearings have stayed quiet.
@JasonMiller, welcome to the asylum.
For some reason, I don’t want to alter Miss Daisy from the way toyota designed and built her. Especially the suspension and drive train.
For some reason, I don’t want to alter Miss Daisy from the way toyota designed and built her. Especially the suspension and drive train.
The wheel bearings (or the studs, as is often brought up) can't tell the difference between wheel spacers and a low offset wheel. The leverage is the same for the same effective offset.
You will feel a bit of difference in the steering from the increased scrub radius.
These skids are tough as hell man. Don’t be afraid of rocks. I run them and have scraped them plenty.
On the visit to the dealership this morning, I grabbed the first service adviser I saw. He checked it out. After feeling how sharp the ends of the posts are, his gut response was that’ll probably be a recall. Took it to the manager and he told him to submit the problem report to Toyota. So now I wait. I am happy that his gut response matched my thought on it. Toyota should either have smoothed it off after drilling it, or they could have simply made plastic caps to insert in it (probably would have to glue them in).
Are you referring to the posts that are inserted into the seat? If so, why would the sharp ends ever present a hazard or come in contact with your seat?
Have 1” SpiderTrax & love ‘em. Stick w/ high quality hub-centric & reasonable offset. Toyota/ Lexus OE rims hub offset are hyper-conservative to start with when compared to other makes. Use loctite & check torque every rotation.
Really like the poke & way it drives.
Have to remove them when folding the seats forward (runs into the back of the front seats). Have to be careful to not let the post base touch anything because they’re sharp. The first time removing them, they felt stuck (release was being held in) and popped up and out landing on the seat. The sharp surface cut the seat. If you leave the seats folded and the headrests out, don’t put them somewhere where they’ll contact the seats.
- Jul 7, 2025
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- '25 LC 1958 || '25 Sequoia LTD TRD || '05 TJR || '24 Polaris Ranger 1000 Crew
Trade fender flares with me, you’ll get even more of your poke
and I’ll be rid of mine! 
That goes for anyone who favors poke lol, get you some free poke courtesy of supporting a 1958 owner for the low price of a fender flare a day. Every 13 minutes a 1958 owner, somewhere, sees an LC-trim and envies their plastic arches. Even small plastic donations make a huge difference in the lives of struggling 1958 owners.
Appreciate that, good to hear from someone running them long term. The "OE offset is hyper-conservative" point is interesting, I figured Toyota left a bit of room but didn't realize it was that much compared to other makes. Kind of makes the whole "spacers are dangerous" panic look overblown for a modest 1.5 inch.
Loctite tip noted, I went with a dab of blue on the studs at install and re-torqued at 50 miles like I mentioned. So far everything has stayed put and the bearings are quiet. I'm planning to check torque again at the first oil change just to be safe.
The poke you mentioned, that's exactly the look I was after. The factory setup had the wheels tucked so far in it looked like it was on roller skates. Glad to hear the driving feel holds up, I've only got a few hundred miles on mine but the steering actually feels more planted, not twitchy like I half expected.
What loctite are you running, the blue 243 or the red? Just curious since I went with blue and wonder if that's the right call for something I'd want to remove someday.
SpiderTrax provides red Loctite & says torque 90# @ install, & retorque after 50 miles @ 80#. Recently dealer replaced front rotors for the reverse squeal TSB & they reinstalled the SpiderTrax. I need to go retorque. This is our 2nd vehicle w/ Spidertrax (‘23 Sequoia & now LC) & I’ve had zero problems w/ balance or vibration.
Blue is removable. Red(s) requires high heat to remove.
Threadlocker: Red or blue, which one’s right for you?
New to threadlockers? Everything you need to know about types,& application and removal.
www.loctiteproducts.com
Thanks.Blue is removable. Red(s) requires high heat to remove.
. Interesting Loctite information.Threadlocker: Red or blue, which one’s right for you?
New to threadlockers? Everything you need to know about types,& application and removal.
Loctite ‘secures’ the torque, it doesn’t make it harder to untorque. It’s there in the thread capture area to prevent vibration from backing away from the original torque value.
Red is for higher heat applications - stable up to 450 degrees. Red 272 would be better used over blue in mounting a spacer onto a brake rotor with lots of radiant heat. The SpiderTrax spacers ship with Red Loctite from factory, & can confirm their lug nuts & Loctite easily break loose later w/ just 1/2” drive lug tools.
With stuck bolts I’ve gotten the gas wrench out many times over the years - seems like always on the dirtiest, tightest location known. Never specifically because it had loctite. Makes perfect sense it might ease the tension.
Fuck this little clip. Every time I take the jack out and touch that clip,bam, it disappears into the abyss. Now I have to remove the cubby and battery to find it again. Unfortunately I can’t just let it disappear I will forever think about where it went. That’s all rant over lol.
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🚪 Land Cruiser Exterior
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🏠 Land Cruiser Interior
🏠 Land Cruiser Interior
⚡ Land Cruiser Electronics
🔧 Land Cruiser Maintenance
