🛠️ What Have You Done To Your LC250 Today?

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Added the "OEM-style" mudflaps. The rear was super easy. I recommend attaching the clips before the bolts, though. I didn't do the best job trimming the front mudflaps, but it's not noticeable.
Are those the ones from cartrim home? What needed to be trimmed, I understood they were for the US market, or are they only fit for a particular trim level?
 
Are those the ones from cartrim home? What needed to be trimmed, I understood they were for the US market, or are they only fit for a particular trim level?
Yes they are from cartrim. They are not the same shape as the stock mudflaps.
 
I added MICTUNING C4 rock lights. Installed a switch to operate the relay. Haven’t figured out how to get them to come on with the mirror lights when I walk up. Running board lights don’t have enough to turn on the relay due to the variable voltage they use. Any ideas of a proper 12V trigger?
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This is how I did it, works great!. (Post #8)

 
This is how I did it, works great!. (Post #8)

I reviewed your diagram before I ever installed mine. Apparently I am missing something easy. I did it with two, four post relays, no 87a, and left the step light plugged in. I guess I need to redo it with different relays like you used.
 
Installed the Trail Hunter front skid and LC transmission transfer skid today. Bolted up perfectly. The original thin steel front skid actually bolted to the bottom of the ARB bumpers thin chin cladding. I like the plastic interface type shield on the leading edge of the OEM heavier duty skids. I got the two skid plates online on Black Friday for $456 total including tax and free shipping. The Trail Hunter version was a little less than the Toyota stamped version designed for the LC.
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I reviewed your diagram before I ever installed mine. Apparently I am missing something easy. I did it with two, four post relays, no 87a, and left the step light plugged in. I guess I need to redo it with different relays like you used.
To be honest after the install was successful, I didn't research further to determine the OEM funky neg vs pos values. So what I'm saying is.......... I don't know if the neg leg is constant and needs the 87a or the pos leg is the constant. It's quirky as to the brightness of the lights, sometimes with the switch "on" the lights are brighter and sometimes with the switch "on" the lights don't seem any brighter than the 'Off" position. But since they come on when I walk up to the LC, I'm happy and a future me might investigate the quirk.......lol
 
I added MICTUNING C4 rock lights. Installed a switch to operate the relay. Haven’t figured out how to get them to come on with the mirror lights when I walk up. Running board lights don’t have enough to turn on the relay due to the variable voltage they use. Any ideas of a proper 12V trigger?
I wired my four LED step lights to the dome light, no relay required and they function like OEM only at full brightness and I can turn them on via the overhead switch as well. There are pass throughs under the front seats near the front edge of the outer seat track, untape run the wires through and retape the passthrough, up the b-pillar and to the dome light. Getting the damn dome light out was the hardest part. I suppose if one wanted you could add a relay and switch in to how I wired mine to allow manual operation without affecting the dome light in the car for rock lights on the trail with the dome light off.

The Positive voltage is always present on one leg of the OEM harness and the other leg goes positive as well when off and then drops to around +3VDC when lights are on giving you +9VDC to the lights on the OEM harness configuration. Depending on the relay 9VDC may not be enough to trigger it properly.
 
Additional Rear light (running+brake+signal+emergency) added to enhance to safety on road at night as well as on dusty trails
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today put 275/70 R18 Nokian Hakkapeliitta T3’s on my 1958LC. Now the speedometer is actually reading the same speed as street sign speed indicators. With stock tires - much too small - my speedometer always indicated a speed that was faster than the 1958LC was really going. Which leads me to believe that the 1958LC was designed for 275/70’s. Smaller tires, like the stock 245/70’s, rotate faster at speed x than larger tires at speed x, hence the car thinking it was going faster than it really was. I like the new tires. This spring I’ll install KO3s.
 

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With the temps dropping into the low teens, I added ‘winter antifreeze’ to the windshield washer reservoir, to hopefully prevent the reservoir from rupturing in the cold carport that Miss Daisy sleeps in. Took a while to get the fluid all the way to the back window..
 
today put 275/70 R18 Nokian Hakkapeliitta T3’s on my 1958LC. Now the speedometer is actually reading the same speed as street sign speed indicators. With stock tires - much too small - my speedometer always indicated a speed that was faster than the 1958LC was really going. Which leads me to believe that the 1958LC was designed for 275/70’s. Smaller tires, like the stock 245/70’s, rotate faster at speed x than larger tires at speed x, hence the car thinking it was going faster than it really was. I like the new tires. This spring I’ll install KO3s.
I have a suspicion that Toyota ran with the smaller tires because it leads the driver to think they are getting better gas mileage. Maybe even misleads regulators. Let me explain ... if the car "thinks" it was really traveling at 60 mph, but in fact you are only going 55 mph. Then in one hour you really only went 55 miles and the fuel consumed (mpg) would be relative to the actual distance traveled, i.e., the 55 miles. The car's computer on the other hand would be showing you a mpg calculation based on erroneously on the 60 miles it thought it traveled. The result: mpg real < than mpg car calculated. That's a really big deal in my book. I work in corporate in the medical device space and understand the motivation behind why engineers may feel the need to cheat a little. Bad idea all around.
 
Swapped the weak Toyota OEM battery for a LFP drop in replacement with more usable capacity at a third of the weight better CCA for the winch, with a built in jump-start if the battery gets accidentally worn down.
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Swapped the weak Toyota OEM battery for a LFP drop in replacement with more usable capacity at a third of the weight better CCA for the winch, with a built in jump-start if the battery gets accidentally worn down.
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I am interested in hearing how that performs long term.
 
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