Fuel Tank options for Land Cruiser 250/ GX550
- Thread starter Robbie
- Start date
That's the same tank as others have installed in this thread. Slee is buying it from FK and importing it rather than you buying directly from FK.
Thank you for the reply
I think you are very likely right based on everything I’ve read. Will be interesting to see you confirm your hypothesis!
To be clear, I’m not saying it never could be made to function as there are factory installed sub tanks in other markets. My guess is the sub tank has its own float level sensor and the ECU is programmed from the factory to know total fuel capacity. So in theory, I bet DTE could be made to work, but that sounds very very involved.
The Long Range America 24-Gal Aux Tank is a great option for those open to the auxiliary tank route! It doesn't work on the GX, but it brings your total on board fuel capacity to ~42 gallons which would give about 850 miles of range per fill up!
Welcome to the asylum.
Just started an order from Slee for the 29 gallon replacement. Full deposit taken, no refund. They're waiting on some to be delivered, but those all are spoken for, and saying at least 8 weeks out, with their next shipment not even finalized. I'm close enough to Golden to let them do the installation.
Give quick Tundra perspective -
Just did a 22 to 32 gallon factory tank swap. The fuel gauge is metered off of the potentiometer signal in an integrated fuel pump/float that sits in a fuel well inside the tank. The Distance to Empty (DTE) is a hard code in the main body ECU. As many know, Toyota ECUs are rarely able to be flashed compared to say a Ford. Example - You can flash for tire size difference to correct a speedo in a F150 - can’t in a Tundra.
My Tundra prior to the tank swap I worked with a dealer to install for the Toyota Performance Package. It’s now Port installed only. It comes with high flow dual CAIs, unique exhaust, & a dealer reflash using their TechStream. In the cal files for selecting the correct flash code by vehicle some of the selection choices are:
Makes me think the tank size is hard coded in the ECU.
Since the tank swap the DTE counts down and just goes down to ‘refuel soon’, meanwhile there is another 150+ miles literally left in the tank. Meanwhile the low fuel warning, etc. all triggers off the actual tank level. It’s really no issue for us. The tank size difference is game changer for us towing - finally the truck has proper range. I have asked my dealer to visit w/ Toyota to see if we can reflash for different call code for the larger tank, & no answers so far. There is some anxiety by the dealer if the ECU can even be flashed again. If it fails it means buying a new ECU - not interested in that.
If I upgrade our LC to a larger aftermarket tank I won’t expect DTE to work correctly.
Probably just me, but won’t consider a larger tank upgrade on our LC until someone comes up with a larger poly tank vs. metal. Deal breaker for me.
Just did a 22 to 32 gallon factory tank swap. The fuel gauge is metered off of the potentiometer signal in an integrated fuel pump/float that sits in a fuel well inside the tank. The Distance to Empty (DTE) is a hard code in the main body ECU. As many know, Toyota ECUs are rarely able to be flashed compared to say a Ford. Example - You can flash for tire size difference to correct a speedo in a F150 - can’t in a Tundra.
My Tundra prior to the tank swap I worked with a dealer to install for the Toyota Performance Package. It’s now Port installed only. It comes with high flow dual CAIs, unique exhaust, & a dealer reflash using their TechStream. In the cal files for selecting the correct flash code by vehicle some of the selection choices are:
- With/without grill shutters
- 4x2/4x4
- Hybrid/non-hybrid
- 22.5G or 32.2G tank
Makes me think the tank size is hard coded in the ECU.
Since the tank swap the DTE counts down and just goes down to ‘refuel soon’, meanwhile there is another 150+ miles literally left in the tank. Meanwhile the low fuel warning, etc. all triggers off the actual tank level. It’s really no issue for us. The tank size difference is game changer for us towing - finally the truck has proper range. I have asked my dealer to visit w/ Toyota to see if we can reflash for different call code for the larger tank, & no answers so far. There is some anxiety by the dealer if the ECU can even be flashed again. If it fails it means buying a new ECU - not interested in that.
If I upgrade our LC to a larger aftermarket tank I won’t expect DTE to work correctly.
Probably just me, but won’t consider a larger tank upgrade on our LC until someone comes up with a larger poly tank vs. metal. Deal breaker for me.
One option that I haven't seen talked about much is the LongRangeAmerica Auxiliary Tank. It's definitely not for everyone as it requires relocating your spare but it does keep your fuel gauge accurate and just transfers fuel from the 24 gallon tank into the main tank which the gauge still reads off of.
Unfortunately it seems like at this point in the game, all of the options do have some drawbacks, but it's great seeing this, the FK and all of the other tank options coming to the market. The range on the U.S. 250's is really a buzz kill!
Unfortunately it seems like at this point in the game, all of the options do have some drawbacks, but it's great seeing this, the FK and all of the other tank options coming to the market. The range on the U.S. 250's is really a buzz kill!
WookieBait
Active member
Why does it matter if it's poly vs metal?
Re the new FK 12Gal saddle tank, I may have interpreted the install video incorrectly, but it looks like it pumps from the aux to the main tank and still uses the float and sensor in main tank, so presumably the MTE would increase with the transfer?
HDPE tanks normally don’t have seams - my mind much safer in a crash situation
Metal is prone to rust (or corrosion if aluminum) due to exposure to fuel and is more prone to cracking welds when impacted offroad or during an accident. In addition the tanks gets pressurized due to being fuel injected and is at greater risk of popping a weld due to this. Metal is no longer allowed and has been this way for awhile for OEMs due to safety rules, the reason none of these would ever be allowed in commy state of CA.
Most quality tanks are coated inside to mitigate rust/corrosion but the fuel eats that away overtime as well, especially Ethanol.
If you have a metal tank the best life extension is keeping it full, especially when sitting for any extended period to help limit exposure to air on the inside.
Ya gotta love rotational molding!
WookieBait
Active member
Cool, thanks for the info.
Update: What a disappointment! The item I filled out the customs form for was not the aux fuel tank, it was for a seven gang switch trim panel from Australia. So I'm back to wondering where the heck this thing is at.
I was happy about receiving the switch panel but it isn't a remove and replace thing (sad face) It has required a lot of careful trimming and still doesn't fit just right, but I think I'll get there. For anyone out there interested in this trim panel, You will have to cut the "dash" out where the middle locking tab of the OEM trim panel locks in to. A razor knife worked well for this.
(edit) contacted the company (FX Industries), my shipment has reached their "overseas warehouse" and is on it's way to me....... translation..... "in a holding yard somewhere, waiting for the container to fill up before they put it on a ship."
I was happy about receiving the switch panel but it isn't a remove and replace thing (sad face) It has required a lot of careful trimming and still doesn't fit just right, but I think I'll get there. For anyone out there interested in this trim panel, You will have to cut the "dash" out where the middle locking tab of the OEM trim panel locks in to. A razor knife worked well for this.
(edit) contacted the company (FX Industries), my shipment has reached their "overseas warehouse" and is on it's way to me....... translation..... "in a holding yard somewhere, waiting for the container to fill up before they put it on a ship."
Not sure if that $1K is high or not - that’s like 5 hours labor @ $200/hr in TX. Tundra took me just over 4 hours w/ me & my 18 y/o son. The time killer was bringing that larger tank up & having to do fuel & evap connections almost blind in about 6” space over your head. Hard on your hands doing it for 1st time as they’re pretty unique connectors in close quarters.
Seem to remember seeing post that the LC tank process you pull the rear seat & do connections through body grommet openings from above, & that would make the job so much easier. Between transferring fuel, limited space & special tools I think you’re smart letting a pro do the job.
