Upgrading speakers on 1958

[Rubicon15]

I’m following this thread because I’m in the same boat. I think that without adding an amp the speakers won’t sound a whole lot better than stock.

A 4-channel 50-90 watt RMS amp will be 200-600 depending on which one you get.

I added Sound deanening to all four doors last week and that made the stock door speakers sound much better all by itself. That was less than $100 as a DIY project and took me about an hour per door.

The real issue after deciding to get the amp is how to get the signal to the amp and is that signal any good. I’m stuck at this question currently. I can’t tell if the spend will be worth the improvement as someone mentioned upthread.

I’m thinking the

Beat-Sonic ENA-2T3 Plug and Play Encore Alpha Power Amplifier Kit for $299 may be the best plug-n-play option. Thoughts???​

 

[pizzlegreet]

it looks like the best solution so far. I wish it had a little more power.

 

[Rubicon15]

it looks like the best solution so far. I wish it had a little more power.

I like that you can install it behind the radio. I think it is very similar to the OEM used with the JBL system. There is a YouTube video regarding the installation. Note the updated procedures mentioned in the video. You don’t have to remove the dashboard surround around the speedometer etc.

I really need to watch the video again. I may tackle the install myself. At least I know it will done correctly. First step, still need to finalize my speaker selection.

With regards to the dashboard speakers, I’m not quite sure why or how they could be out of phase. People have mentioned reversing the polarity. Normally, this is done on home audio equipment based on the number of components that are out of phase - equal vs odd number.

 

[Onandoffroaddriving]

it looks like the best solution so far. I wish it had a little more power.

The Beatsonic ENA-3T3 is rated at 10% more power with 25w RMS over 22.5W RMS of the ENA-2T3. Beatsonic confirmed this through an online chat. It also has a subwoofer output. The item description provides max output at 45w and 50w.

 

[Rubicon15]

The Beatsonic ENA-3T3 is rated at 10% more power with 25w RMS over 22.5W RMS of the ENA-2T3. Beatsonic confirmed this through an online chat. It also has a subwoofer output. The item description provides max output at 45w and 59w.

Do you know if the unit has the same measurements? I’m not thinking about installing a sub but it may be a good option to have in the future. Is the 1958 prewired for a sub? I know we have the grille.

 

[bkral]

Do you know if the unit has the same measurements? I’m not thinking about installing a sub but it may be a good option to have in the future. Is the 1958 prewired for a sub? I know we have the grille.

You don’t want to install a sub in the factory position, it’s way too shallow and it’s not at all an optimal placement.

You’d want a shallow powered sub like a JBL Nano or another enclosure that’s properly built for the sub.

A big sub in the hatch would rattle that thing to hell.

 

[Rubicon15]

You don’t want to install a sub in the factory position, it’s way too shallow and it’s not at all an optimal placement.

You’d want a shallow powered sub like a JBL Nano or another enclosure that’s properly built for the sub.

A big sub in the hatch would rattle that thing to hell.

Good point! Do you know if it is worth installing the Beats amp that has the optional sub or just stick with the standard amp. The power difference is minimal. I would assume, the internal components are the same minus the sub connection. Do you know if Beats is considered a quality component like Focal and JL Audio?

 

[Onandoffroaddriving]

Do you know if the unit has the same measurements? I’m not thinking about installing a sub but it may be a good option to have in the future. Is the 1958 prewired for a sub? I know we have the grille.

I remember the Beatsonic website listing exactly the same dimensions and weight.

 

[Rubicon15]

I remember the Beatsonic website listing exactly the same dimensions and weight.

Yes, I looked up the specs. I’m going to call Toyota today to find out how many watts the 1958 radio has and if the sub is prewired.

 

[Rubicon15]

Good point! Do you know if it is worth installing the Beats amp that has the optional sub or just stick with the standard amp. The power difference is minimal. I would assume, the internal components are the same minus the sub connection. Do you know if Beats is considered a quality component like Focal and JL Audio?

Called Toyota, no idea on the watts or if a sub is prewired.

 

[Onandoffroaddriving]

Called Toyota, no idea on the watts or if a sub is prewired.

Diagram attached shows ANC systems for various trims. Looks like the 1958 trim with six speakers, does have an additional rear subwoofer that is only for ANC

 

[Rubicon15]

Diagram attached shows ANC systems for various trims. Looks like the 1958 trim with six speakers, does have an additional rear subwoofer that is only for ANC

Pardon my ignorance but what is the difference between an ANC sub vs a regular subwoofer?

 

[bkral]

Pardon my ignorance but what is the difference between an ANC sub vs a regular subwoofer?

An ANC system isn’t for producing music, it’s for producing out-of-phase sound to cancel unwanted noise.

So the sub isn’t meant to play music at all.

 

[Rubicon15]

After reaching speakers and amps, preliminarily I have speakers narrowed down to Morel MT300 for the dashboard, Morel Hybrid MW6 MKII for the front doors, Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 for the rear doors, and the beats Encore ENA-2T3 by amp.

Since the dashboard speakers dominate the front cab area, I thought it may be worth considering the MT300. The MKII are not 2 channel. However, the 602’s are 2 channel. All of the speakers are 90+ dB. The dashboard speakers are 6 ohm and the door speakers are 4 ohm.

Any thoughts or candid feedback? I know it would be nice to have more power but I like the plug n play features and location of the Beats amp.

 

[Onandoffroaddriving]

After reaching speakers and amps, preliminarily I have speakers narrowed down to Morel MT300 for the dashboard, Morel Hybrid MW6 MKII for the front doors, Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 for the rear doors, and the beats Encore ENA-2T3 by amp.

Since the dashboard speakers dominate the front cab area, I thought it may be worth considering the MT300. The MKII are not 2 channel. However, the 602’s are 2 channel. All of the speakers are 90+ Db. The dashboard speakers are 6 ohm and the door speakers are 4 ohm.

Any thoughts or candid feedback? I know it would be nice to have more power but I like the plug n play features and location of the Beats amp.

 

[TX_Landman]

Nice choice, I had Morel speakers in my last Tundra. I assume you’re getting the Morel Hybrid 62 component system. Are you going to try and squeeze the crossovers in the dash along with the amp?

 

[Rubicon15]

Nice choice, I had Morel speakers in my last Tundra. I assume you’re getting the Morel Hybrid 62 component system. Are you going to try and squeeze the crossovers in the dash along with the amp?

Yes, I assume it should fit. Right now, I’m not looking at the component set if I run the MT300’s. I don’t think they are part of any component system.

 

[TX_Landman]

Yes, I assume it should fit. Right now, I’m not looking at the component set if I run the MT300’s. I don’t think they are part of any component system.

They are part of the Morel Hybrid 62 component set.

 

[rslundquist]

In an 1958 trim, I replaced the front door with JL C2-690tx and the rear doors with C2-650x while removing the dash speakers for the moment because of electrical cautions. The new speakers sound far better even with only factory power.

I've read that aftermarket speakers can be more sensitive than stock and play louder. That spec is provided on speaker brand webpages as SENSITIVITY (SPL @ 1 W/1 M).

Crutchfield Notes and techs identify the front doors and dash corners as factory wired in parallel with the stock dash an "8 ohm" speaker and the door being "4 ohm". Wiring two speakers in parallel changes the resistance of the circuit and changes the wattage delivered and can strain amps, potentially to failure. Because I changed the door speakers from stock, I am wary of altering the circuit resistance and stressing the factory head unit. I figured Toyota paired their two speakers to work with the factory unit and an aftermarket speaker could be meaningfully different.

My next step to install C2-350x dash speakers (C2-400x seem like too tight a fit) on new speaker wiring and externally amp everything with an 8-channel DPS amp Infinity DSP6840 ($350) (JBL DSP4086 is identical). It has 40W per channel which triples power from stock, to more channels, and is not too much to endanger the factory EQ unit under the driver's seat carpet (per Crutchfield tech). The amp also allows for also adding a center dash and powered sub with everything DSP tuned for correction of factory signal, speaker time alignment, crossovers, and EQ tuning to the cabin.

A simpler amp route would be the Beatsonic ENA-3T3 which adds 25W RMS compared the reported 10-15W of the stock head unit. BTW, Beatsonic has a wiring harness BH-10 that looks to simplify adding any external amp.

You're adding speakers with bigger magnets, stiffer surrounds, and stiffer cones that will need more power to sound the way they're supposed to. Will they play music? Sure. But adding an amp should be the first order of business, IMO. Without an amp, you might get slightly better highs, but your mid- and low-end will disappear unless you can really drive those things. Also, I'd be weary of adding crossovers to a factory system that's already probably aggressively handicapped by the OEM head unit, i.e. bass roll-off at moderate to high volumes.

I've been through all this before with my Tacoma. Did a plug-and-play amp that made the factory speakers sounds really good, but ended up amplifying the crappy OEM signal and all it's faults (got hissing, etc)...then swapped out speakers... then added an AudioControl unit to try correcting the signal...

Wasn't until I swapped to an aftermarket head unit with legitimately good, clean signal (and an amp) that the sound really came alive. But I recognize that's a lot harder to do these days with so much rest-of-car integration in factory radios. So it's all moot.

I replaced all the dash and door speakers with 4 ohm speakers. I also added the beatsonic amp behind the factory head unit. I've had issues with the factory equalizer cutting out sound to all speakers other than the right rear door that is direct wired for some reason.

The first set of speakers I installed were 3 ohm Infinities. With those installed, the speakers kept cutting out until eventually it killed the equalizer under the seat. I had the equalizer replaced and got sound back to all speakers. Thinking the 3 ohm speakers might be the issue, I replaced them with 4 ohm speakers. I'm still having issues with the speakers cutting out if I play the volume up (around 25 for more than a minute). Any ideas as to what me be causing this?

 

[ryanjl]

What is the ohm rating of the beatsonic amp?