Finally finished with the audio upgrades

[fftfk]

I have been in a National Champion vehicle back in the day...and yes as amazing as it was....Hotel Cali live never sounded better....you'd laugh if I told you what the vehicle was. That was the Navy sonar guy I mentioned earlier.

....still not gonna touch either home.......1 is old school speakers and amps, bridged etc, and the other is new school just plain big amps and Triton 1rs with serious sub power. Never use surround, just multi channel stereo.

KISS is indeed the key. In the LC, I found the midrange to need bout -2 clicks and the treble bout +1 click. That cleaned things up nicely. Bass get tweeked depending on volume.....more is not better and I am always hearing folks wanting more bass......muddy overboosted bass does not impress me .
I have found both of my current vehicles to sound FAR better in stereo mode than surround. That is what the source was......
To be honest, a wife in car usually puts an end to any relatively loud music playing quickly......seems the Lexus platform would be better for audio with its supposedly superior sound deadening etc from the factory...although I have ZERO complaints with the LC ...seems quieter at 80 than 65.

With the exception of the acoustic glass all around on the gx vs just the windshield on the LC, the Toyota Engagement Center told me sound dampening is exactly the same between the LC and GX.

 

[Sugarloafer80]

Interesting.glass definitely has an effect

 

[Thx_1158]

With the exception of the acoustic glass all around on the gx vs just the windshield on the LC, the Toyota Engagement Center told me sound dampening is exactly the same between the LC and GX.

I would think they would apply sound dealing materials to the doors skins of the GX. MY LC had no such sound dealing materials.

 

[Nobu Market]

Hey, this is a long shot, but do you happen to have a full setup recommendation? complete audio noob.

from what I understand
ill need
PAC AP4-TY14
PAC APH-TY02 harness
some kind of amp with DSP, maybe 5 channel?
some kind of sub
Replace the front door and dash speakers, since that would be 4 speakers + sub for a 5-channel amp, unless I'm not understanding how changing speakers work

and wiring goes
PAC AP4-TY14 → 5-ch Amp → Factory wiring + Subwoofer

 

[Thx_1158]

Hey, this is a long shot, but do you happen to have a full setup recommendation? complete audio noob.

from what I understand
ill need
PAC AP4-TY14
PAC APH-TY02 harness
some kind of amp with DSP, maybe 5 channel?
some kind of sub
Replace the front door and dash speakers, since that would be 4 speakers + sub for a 5-channel amp, unless I'm not understanding how changing speakers work

and wiring goes
PAC AP4-TY14 → 5-ch Amp → Factory wiring + Subwoofer

If you don’t have much experience here, I’d recommend finding a solid audio shop. As far as DSP amps, this is a solid one….. Alpine PXE-C80-88 OPTIM8 for the cost. With the 8 channel, I has to disconnect the center and rear tail gate speakers as 4 channels up front and 4 channels in the rear. You can then run a powered sub. Trust me…your best bet is an audio shop if you have never tackled this type of job. You won’t regret it. You may also need to fab speaker brackets depending on what you use. Depending on where you are in Texas, I may have a recommendation as to who to use and who to avoid.

 

[Nobu Market]

If you don’t have much experience here, I’d recommend finding a solid audio shop. As far as DSP amps, this is a solid one….. Alpine PXE-C80-88 OPTIM8 for the cost. With the 8 channel, I has to disconnect the center and rear tail gate speakers as 4 channels up front and 4 channels in the rear. You can then run a powered sub. Trust me…your best bet is an audio shop if you have never tackled this type of job. You won’t regret it. You may also need to fab speaker brackets depending on what you use. Depending on where you are in Texas, I may have a recommendation as to who to use and who to avoid.

i’m in katy/houston texas, i have trust issues with shops but if you have a reputable one then id be down!

 

[Thx_1158]

i’m in katy/houston texas, i have trust issues with shops but if you have a reputable one then id be down!

No not down there. I’m up in Dallas.

 

[eurocarfanatic]

With the exception of the acoustic glass all around on the gx vs just the windshield on the LC, the Toyota Engagement Center told me sound dampening is exactly the same between the LC and GX.

The GX 550 only has acoustic glass on the windshield, driver, passenger front windows and roof. That seems to be the case for almost all luxury vehicles that aren't at the price point of a Bentley. Even my $150,000-as-new 2020 Range Rover Autobiography LWB only had acoustic glass on the front two doors' windows, windshield and possibly roof; the rest of it was just tempered/single-layer glass. I test-drove a 2024 GX 550 Luxury+ that a local dealer had, purely to see what the glass situation was and whether or not it was quieter at 70+ (it was, considerably). I have attached photos of the glass labels.

The easiest way to tell without being able to see the edge of the glass is by looking at the label at one of the bottom corners. If it says "Laminated" or some variation thereof, it's acoustic glass. If it says "Tempered", it's just regular, single-layer automotive glass. That goes for just about any automaker, too. Specifically, acoustic glass on a GX will say Lamipane on the door glass and Lamisafe on the roof glass. It will also have the little retaining clip, or "nub" on the leading edge of each front door that I believe helps hold the heavier acoustic glass in one place so that it doesn't rattle.

What's more, I think you were given misinformation regarding the glass being the only sound-deadening difference between the LC and GX. I've been perusing the Lexus and Toyota parts catalog on the front and rear doors, and for the GX, several of the parts are listed as being specific to the "NV HIGH GRADE" option, which I assume means "Noise and Vibration" and refers to versions of the GX that have increased sound deadening (because not all of them do). Some of those components with "NVH HIGH GRADE" variants include the door inner and outer skins. Most likely, for those versions of the GX, Toyota or its supplier applies sound-absorbent matting to the door sheetmetal pieces themselves before they are assembled, and that is the reason for the part-number distinction. This is something that Toyota does not do for any version of the LC, as far as I'm aware.

I did see two different types of glass on the GX parts catalog, a regular one and a slightly pricier one that was labeled NV HIGH GRADE. But I only saw that distinction for the front door glass. The rear door glass had no such divide, and only listed one part for all the pieces...which further supports my claim that the GX only has acoustic glass on the front doors, windshield and roof.

I'm about to embark on a mission to upgrade my '26 Land Cruiser Premium's door sound deadening to be reasonably close to that of the nicer GX 550 trims, including the door glass; I'll let you know how it goes. So far, there's a surprising lot in common between the LC and all versions of the GX when it comes to door components, including the window regulators and glass seals.

I'll let you all know how this goes.

 

[buildxyz]

@Thx_1158, awesome research you did here. I have the LC 10 speaker trim non-JBL which still has an amplifier assembly under the driver seat unlike the 6 speaker 1958. I’m looking into DSP amp options and whether I’ll need a PAC or rely on audio summing. From the PAC website it says “Vehicle must be equipped with a factory JBL system” so it may not even be an option for me.

1) With your AP4-TY14, did you install this behind the head unit. Run all 3 RCAs to your Audison amp?
2) Did you have to the run all your speaker wires from your amp to all the speaker locations or could you reuse the factory wiring there?

 

[Thx_1158]

@Thx_1158, awesome research you did here. I have the LC 10 speaker trim non-JBL which still has an amplifier assembly under the driver seat unlike the 6 speaker 1958. I’m looking into DSP amp options and whether I’ll need a PAC or rely on audio summing. From the PAC website it says “Vehicle must be equipped with a factory JBL system” so it may not even be an option for me.

1) With your AP4-TY14, did you install this behind the head unit. Run all 3 RCAs to your Audison amp?
2) Did you have to the run all your speaker wires from your amp to all the speaker locations or could you reuse the factory wiring there?

1. Yes
2. Ran wires to amp. Factory was too short. Amp is in the back on top of the sub in a custom enclosure.

 

[buildxyz]

@Thx_1158 reading through TIS, it seems that for both the 10 and 14 speaker systems, the telematics unit has the ability to hijack the front right dash speaker path during emergency call situations. It also mentions DTC B1ACA71 will be thrown if "Open in the front speakerRH circuit is detected."

Curious if you knew about this and had a solution? if you wired your own front dash speaker did you leave the telematics connected to another dedicated speaker? You can also put a dummy load on the telematics SPO(+/-) speaker output if you don't mind dropping that functionality.

I was considering leaving the OEM center dash speaker dedicated to telematic unit and wiring my own L/R dash speaker.

 

[Vermont]

Has anyone considered using this kit? TrailGridPro Audison 13 Speaker Plug & Play Bundle. It seems like a simple, all-in-one package, but I'm curious whether anyone here thinks there are better options at this price point.

 

[APIOQM]

View attachment 46214

Are these MP 70.3 Mille Pro speakers drop-in, or do medications have to be made? Would it be worthwhile installing these in a 1958 with no other changes? I believe the dash speakers are full-range.

 

[buildxyz]

Has anyone considered using this kit? TrailGridPro Audison 13 Speaker Plug & Play Bundle. It seems like a simple, all-in-one package, but I'm curious whether anyone here thinks there are better options at this price point.

I have seen this, it’s a quality speaker package with some simple looking adapter plates, the harnesses are plug and play but these are readily available on AliExpress.

So the value proposition is not huge for me. It also assumes you want to keep all speakers and doesn’t replace the woofer in the lift gate.

I think the OP on this thread had the best idea of moving to a DSP amplifier. This will make the most impactful change imo.

 

[APIOQM]

Are these MP 70.3 Mille Pro speakers drop-in, or do medications have to be made? Would it be worthwhile installing these in a 1958 with no other changes? I believe the dash speakers are full-range.

Following up on this. Trying to find some speakers that don't require a modified mounting bracket.

 

[Matthew@LC250Mods]

Really nice setup you've got here! Audio is one of those spheres that absolutely rewards thoughtful planning and I can see that you put a lot of effort into doing it right. I bet it sounds incredible!

 

[fftfk]

Have you had any issues with the amp power draw? Crutchfield keeps telling me I need to stick to a system under 35 amps due to the hybrid system. I have seen where other people are having issues with their batteries due to adding aftermarket items (not necessarily an amp).

 

[basicxj]

Have you had any issues with the amp power draw? Crutchfield keeps telling me I need to stick to a system under 35 amps due to the hybrid system. I have seen where other people are having issues with their batteries due to adding aftermarket items (not necessarily an amp).

I haven’t started with audio upgrades yet. Over on DIYMA (home of some award winning car audio systems) there isn’t much in the way of systems built on the LC250 platform (yet), but there have been several “big” systems done in various other Toyota hybrids that drastically exceed 35 amps of potential draw.

I suspect Crutchfield is being conservative with their figure. Amplifiers will only draw close to the amperage of their fuses if overdriven into heavy clipping, which makes for un-listenable levels of distortion. Idle current will typically only be a fraction of the fuse ratings if amplifier gains have been set correctly. Unless you are going for building some sort of SPL system, I’d imagine you can use quite a good amount of amplifier before causing issues provided you are using the system to listen to music at normal listening levels with some headroom.

 

[janarivera]

No not down there. I’m up in Dallas.

I am reading this thread and interested in upgrading my “premium” sound for my 2027 LC. I live in central Texas. Which shops do you recommend? Thanks!

 

[wpage]

Have you had any issues with the amp power draw? Crutchfield keeps telling me I need to stick to a system under 35 amps due to the hybrid system. I have seen where other people are having issues with their batteries due to adding aftermarket items (not necessarily an amp).

Crutchfield being a leader in this field, may be worth listening to. With the ongoing battery issues in the TLC. Use some caution with the electronics on this vehicle.