JBL Upgrade w/o Amp

[Rubicon15]

I’d borrow a MM to be sure. I don’t know what the colors are.

No problem. I have a MM.

 

[AlexGates]

I’m thinking about all JL Audio. Crutchfield recommends two different 6.5 inch speakers. One for the front and a different model for the rear. The rears don’t have a tweeter but cost $300 each. The front door speakers are $250 for a pair. The more expensive model may be used in the front or rear. Obviously, at a much higher cost. I’m not into blaring music… I’m more of an audiophile.

I just saw this. Crutchfield is wrong. The front door speakers are just a woofer, TacoTunes makes an adapter, Metra doesn't. The rear doors are full range (have a tweeter), you'll want the Metra adapter for that, though a member had good luck repurposing the OEM ring. Make sure you order the NVX silicone baffle kit (just use the ring), it will protect the speaker from water. We had a storm the day before I swapped out my speaker, my OEM speaker had some water in the bottom of the plastic bracket.

I went with Hertz because the JL 3.5 is horribly inefficient @83db. I had one, it is damn well built. Looking back, the dash is so "in your face", that this sensitivity may not actually be a negative, given the super limited EQ settings. You start lowering the mid and that is not only having an effect on the dash, it is on the doors as well.

 

[treadmark]

I just saw this. Crutchfield is wrong. The front door speakers are just a woofer, TacoTunes makes an adapter, Metra doesn't. The rear doors are full range (have a tweeter), you'll want the Metra adapter for that, though a member had good luck repurposing the OEM ring. Make sure you order the NVX silicone baffle kit (just use the ring), it will protect the speaker from water. We had a storm the day before I swapped out my speaker, my OEM speaker had some water in the bottom of the plastic bracket.

I went with Hertz because the JL 3.5 is horribly inefficient @83db. I had one, it is damn well built. Looking back, the dash is so "in your face", that this sensitivity may not actually be a negative, given the super limited EQ settings. You start lowering the mid and that is not only having an effect on the dash, it is on the doors as well.

The front doors on the JBL system are not just woofers. I lost a lot of sound when I installed a woofer there. In another thread, someone posted a document from Toyota that the JBL system had full range speakers in the doors, surprising considering the separate tweeter. When I installed the two-way JL Audio C2 6x9s in the doors, the sound appreciably improved along with stronger lows.

 

[Thx_1158]

The front doors on the JBL system are not just woofers. I lost a lot of sound when I installed a woofer there. In another thread, someone posted a document from Toyota that the JBL system had full range speakers in the doors, surprising considering the separate tweeter. When I installed the two-way JL Audio C2 6x9s in the doors, the sound appreciably improved along with stronger lows.

I had an opposite experience. I took my JL 6.5 two ways out of the front doors and replaced them with a mid bass speaker. Sounds much better and tomorrow the JL 2 ways are going in the rear passenger area.

 

[treadmark]

I had an opposite experience. I took my JL 6.5 two ways out of the front doors and replaced them with a mid bass speaker. Sounds much better and tomorrow the JL 2 ways are going in the rear passenger area.

I used the two-way 6.5s for the back with decent results. The sound from the 6x9s is remarkably better up front.

 

[Rubicon15]

The front doors on the JBL system are not just woofers. I lost a lot of sound when I installed a woofer there. In another thread, someone posted a document from Toyota that the JBL system had full range speakers in the doors, surprising considering the separate tweeter. When I installed the two-way JL Audio C2 6x9s in the doors, the sound appreciably improved along with stronger lows.

Thats one reason I was leaning toward the JL C2 350’s for the dash - two way. Yes the dB’s are lower than the rest of the system. I was under the impression that Toyota only installed woofers in the front doors to give the system more bass/lows. I didn’t realize the JBL system installed two way speakers in the front doors. I guess we need to keep in mind it is a 12 speaker system.

I was planning on installing the two way speakers in the rear doors. The OEM dashboard speakers tend to dominate the front. I’m strongly considering the Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 MKII for the rear doors and the Morel Hybrid MW6 MKII for the front doors.

If not the morels, I will probably install JL Audio 650’s, Any thoughts? Which JL’s did you install in the front doors?

 

[treadmark]

Thats one reason I was leaning toward the JL C2 350’s for the dash - two way. Yes the dB’s are lower than the rest of the system. I was under the impression that Toyota only installed woofers in the front doors to give the system more bass/lows. I didn’t realize the JBL system installed two way speakers in the front doors. I guess we need to keep in mind it is a 12 speaker system.

I was planning on installing the two way speakers in the rear doors. The OEM dashboard speakers tend to dominate the front. I’m strongly considering the Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 MKII for the rear doors and the Morel Hybrid MW6 MKII for the front doors.

If not the morels, I will probably install JL Audio 650’s, Any thoughts? Which JL’s did you install in the front doors?

I list everything in the initial post in this thread.

 

[Rubicon15]

I list everything in the initial post in this thread.

Thank you so much. I’ve been reading so much information on the forum, I forgot about your post. The information is extremely helpful. I am particularly interested in your feedback regarding the front door speakers. I was seriously considering installing a single woofer, not a 2 way speaker.

Based on your feedback and a few others that pointed out that unlike the 1958, the JBL system includes two way speakers in the front doors. I’m convinced the way to go is installing two way speakers in the front and rear doors. I listen to similar music as you noted.

With the help of so many on this forum, I think I have my speaker selection narrowed down to the following.

Dashboard, JL Audio C2 350’s
Front and rear doors, Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 MK II two way
Amp, Beat-Sonic ENA 2T3

Here are the Morel specs:

• 2-way 6-1/2" speakers (pair)
• treated paper composite woofer cone with butyl rubber surround
• steel woofer basket
• 1" silk dome tweeter
• external crossovers
• handles up to 120 watts RMS (220 watts peak power)
• frequency response: 50-22,000 Hz
• sensitivity: 90 dB at 2.83 V
• mounting depth: 2-11/16"

Do you think I will have any problems driving the Morels with the Beats amp. The RMS on the Morel’s is higher than the JL Audio C2 650’s?

 

[AlexGates]

The front doors on the JBL system are not just woofers. I lost a lot of sound when I installed a woofer there. In another thread, someone posted a document from Toyota that the JBL system had full range speakers in the doors, surprising considering the separate tweeter. When I installed the two-way JL Audio C2 6x9s in the doors, the sound appreciably improved along with stronger lows.

I didn't know that, thank you.

Rubicon15: "Thats one reason I was leaning toward the JL C2 350’s for the dash - two way." I have Hertz CX-100 and I am considering the same thing. By the time I get enough amp juice to get the doors really, the dash speakers are overwhelming.

 

[Rubicon15]

I didn't know that, thank you.

Rubicon15: "Thats one reason I was leaning toward the JL C2 350’s for the dash - two way." I have Hertz CX-100 and I am considering the same thing. By the time I get enough amp juice to get the doors really, the dash speakers are overwhelming.

The 350’s have a lower dB that may help tame them a bit. Maybe someone can provide more feedback. I was originally worried about the depth of the 350’s but based on the feedback, they definitely fit.

 

[AlexGates]

Thats one reason I was leaning toward the JL C2 350’s for the dash - two way. Yes the dB’s are lower than the rest of the system. I was under the impression that Toyota only installed woofers in the front doors to give the system more bass/lows. I didn’t realize the JBL system installed two way speakers in the front doors. I guess we need to keep in mind it is a 12 speaker system.

I was planning on installing the two way speakers in the rear doors. The OEM dashboard speakers tend to dominate the front. I’m strongly considering the Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 MKII for the rear doors and the Morel Hybrid MW6 MKII for the front doors.

If not the morels, I will probably install JL Audio 650’s, Any thoughts? Which JL’s did you install in the front doors?

The 350’s have a lower dB that may help tame them a bit. Maybe someone can provide more feedback. I was originally worried about the depth of the 350’s but based on the feedback, they definitely fit.

I ordered them just now, I'll post my results in the non-JBL thread, so as to not stomp all over the JBL-owners thread. (sorry guys).

Figure Mon or Tues. The 350 does fit, I had them, but I now know that I had them wired incorrectly.

 

[Rubicon15]

Just used those same JL Audio in the dash of my 1958. Big big improvement over the feather lite stock speakers. Glad you had luck with the JL Audio in the doors also, that was my thought on selection also as a next move.

I just ran across your post. I’m thinking about adding the same C2 350’s to the dashboard. Originally, I wanted to install the Beats Encore amp. Long story, it’s not designed to handle 2-2.6 ohms. It can easily overheat and potentially damage the head unit and equalizer.

I own a 1958 as well. Since the dashboard speakers are 8 ohms and the 350’s are 4, do you notice an increase in volume out of the 350’s? Your lower overall volume level described is due to the 4.0 ohm 350’s. Because the dashboard and doors are wired in parallel, the ohms actually drop and watts increase - play louder at a lower volume level. I’m trying to find out the ohm rating of the head unit. I emailed Toyota today.

 

[Thx_1158]

I’ve got the Audison AP6.5 Prima 2 ohm speakers on order to put in the front doors replacing the 4ohm Hertz C 165. I have learned so much and hope these pair nicely with the JL 350’s I put in the dash. Here is what I got from Grok on the combo:

Sound Characteristics


• JL C2-350x: These provide crisp highs and improved soundstage due to their silk dome tweeters and coaxial design, addressing the stock system’s lack of clarity.


• Audison AP 6.5: These excel in midbass and low-frequency reproduction, with a pure copper voice coil and no crossover filter, delivering controlled, punchy bass. They will complement the JL dash speakers by adding depth to the lower frequencies, which users note is lacking in the stock JBL system.


• The combination should create a balanced soundstage: the JL C2-350x handling highs and mids from the dash, and the Audison AP 6.5 delivering robust midbass and lows from the doors. However, the overall sound may still lack deep sub-bass due to the stock subwoofer’s reported weakness.

I’m stopping by a car audio store Monday to talk about subwoofer replacement. Here is Grok on the subwoofer (edited as I am not looking at anything that isn’t plug and play)

Replacing the stock subwoofer in the 2025 Toyota Land Cruiser's JBL audio system, alongside the existing upgrades (JL Audio C2-350x dash speakers and planned Audison Prima AP 6.5 door speakers), can significantly enhance the system's bass performance, which users often criticize for lacking power and depth.

Here are three viable options for replacing the stock subwoofer, ranging from plug-and-play to more involved upgrades, considering space constraints, OEM integration, and bass improvement. Option 1: Direct Replacement with an Aftermarket 8 or 9 Subwoofer - Description : Swap the stock subwoofer with a high-performance 8 or 9 subwoofer that fits the OEM enclosure in the rear hatch. - Examples : - Kicker CompRT8 8 Subwoofer (2-ohm, 300W RMS, 84.8 dB sensitivity) : Slim design, suitable for OEM enclosures. - JL Audio 8W3v3-4 8 Subwoofer (4-ohm, 150W RMS, 83 dB sensitivity) : High excursion for deeper bass, fits tight spaces. - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8 Subwoofer (2-ohm, 150W RMS, 82 dB sensitivity) : Punchy bass, robust build.

If anyone is interested, I’ll post my thoughts as I work each solution.

 

[Rubicon15]

I’ve got the Audison AP6.5 Prima 2 ohm speakers on order to put in the front doors replacing the 4ohm Hertz C 165. I have learned so much and hope these pair nicely with the JL 350’s I put in the dash. Here is what I got from Grok on the combo:

Sound Characteristics


• JL C2-350x: These provide crisp highs and improved soundstage due to their silk dome tweeters and coaxial design, addressing the stock system’s lack of clarity.


• Audison AP 6.5: These excel in midbass and low-frequency reproduction, with a pure copper voice coil and no crossover filter, delivering controlled, punchy bass. They will complement the JL dash speakers by adding depth to the lower frequencies, which users note is lacking in the stock JBL system.


• The combination should create a balanced soundstage: the JL C2-350x handling highs and mids from the dash, and the Audison AP 6.5 delivering robust midbass and lows from the doors. However, the overall sound may still lack deep sub-bass due to the stock subwoofer’s reported weakness.

I’m stopping by a car audio store Monday to talk about subwoofer replacement. Here is Grok on the subwoofer (edited as I am not looking at anything that isn’t plug and play)

Replacing the stock subwoofer in the 2025 Toyota Land Cruiser's JBL audio system, alongside the existing upgrades (JL Audio C2-350x dash speakers and planned Audison Prima AP 6.5 door speakers), can significantly enhance the system's bass performance, which users often criticize for lacking power and depth.

Here are three viable options for replacing the stock subwoofer, ranging from plug-and-play to more involved upgrades, considering space constraints, OEM integration, and bass improvement. Option 1: Direct Replacement with an Aftermarket 8 or 9 Subwoofer - Description : Swap the stock subwoofer with a high-performance 8 or 9 subwoofer that fits the OEM enclosure in the rear hatch. - Examples : - Kicker CompRT8 8 Subwoofer (2-ohm, 300W RMS, 84.8 dB sensitivity) : Slim design, suitable for OEM enclosures. - JL Audio 8W3v3-4 8 Subwoofer (4-ohm, 150W RMS, 83 dB sensitivity) : High excursion for deeper bass, fits tight spaces. - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8 Subwoofer (2-ohm, 150W RMS, 82 dB sensitivity) : Punchy bass, robust build.

If anyone is interested, I’ll post my thoughts as I work each solution.

Do your homework on adding 2 ohm speakers. The dashboard and front door speakers are wired in parallel. If all 4 speakers were 4 ohm, the total ohms would be 2.0 due to the parallel wiring.

 

[bkral]

I’ve got the Audison AP6.5 Prima 2 ohm speakers on order to put in the front doors replacing the 4ohm Hertz C 165. I have learned so much and hope these pair nicely with the JL 350’s I put in the dash. Here is what I got from Grok on the combo:

Sound Characteristics


• JL C2-350x: These provide crisp highs and improved soundstage due to their silk dome tweeters and coaxial design, addressing the stock system’s lack of clarity.


• Audison AP 6.5: These excel in midbass and low-frequency reproduction, with a pure copper voice coil and no crossover filter, delivering controlled, punchy bass. They will complement the JL dash speakers by adding depth to the lower frequencies, which users note is lacking in the stock JBL system.


• The combination should create a balanced soundstage: the JL C2-350x handling highs and mids from the dash, and the Audison AP 6.5 delivering robust midbass and lows from the doors. However, the overall sound may still lack deep sub-bass due to the stock subwoofer’s reported weakness.

I’m stopping by a car audio store Monday to talk about subwoofer replacement. Here is Grok on the subwoofer (edited as I am not looking at anything that isn’t plug and play)

Replacing the stock subwoofer in the 2025 Toyota Land Cruiser's JBL audio system, alongside the existing upgrades (JL Audio C2-350x dash speakers and planned Audison Prima AP 6.5 door speakers), can significantly enhance the system's bass performance, which users often criticize for lacking power and depth.

Here are three viable options for replacing the stock subwoofer, ranging from plug-and-play to more involved upgrades, considering space constraints, OEM integration, and bass improvement. Option 1: Direct Replacement with an Aftermarket 8 or 9 Subwoofer - Description : Swap the stock subwoofer with a high-performance 8 or 9 subwoofer that fits the OEM enclosure in the rear hatch. - Examples : - Kicker CompRT8 8 Subwoofer (2-ohm, 300W RMS, 84.8 dB sensitivity) : Slim design, suitable for OEM enclosures. - JL Audio 8W3v3-4 8 Subwoofer (4-ohm, 150W RMS, 83 dB sensitivity) : High excursion for deeper bass, fits tight spaces. - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8 Subwoofer (2-ohm, 150W RMS, 82 dB sensitivity) : Punchy bass, robust build.

If anyone is interested, I’ll post my thoughts as I wo

I’ve got the Audison AP6.5 Prima 2 ohm speakers on order to put in the front doors replacing the 4ohm Hertz C 165. I have learned so much and hope these pair nicely with the JL 350’s I put in the dash. Here is what I got from Grok on the combo:

Sound Characteristics


• JL C2-350x: These provide crisp highs and improved soundstage due to their silk dome tweeters and coaxial design, addressing the stock system’s lack of clarity.


• Audison AP 6.5: These excel in midbass and low-frequency reproduction, with a pure copper voice coil and no crossover filter, delivering controlled, punchy bass. They will complement the JL dash speakers by adding depth to the lower frequencies, which users note is lacking in the stock JBL system.


• The combination should create a balanced soundstage: the JL C2-350x handling highs and mids from the dash, and the Audison AP 6.5 delivering robust midbass and lows from the doors. However, the overall sound may still lack deep sub-bass due to the stock subwoofer’s reported weakness.

I’m stopping by a car audio store Monday to talk about subwoofer replacement. Here is Grok on the subwoofer (edited as I am not looking at anything that isn’t plug and play)

Replacing the stock subwoofer in the 2025 Toyota Land Cruiser's JBL audio system, alongside the existing upgrades (JL Audio C2-350x dash speakers and planned Audison Prima AP 6.5 door speakers), can significantly enhance the system's bass performance, which users often criticize for lacking power and depth.

Here are three viable options for replacing the stock subwoofer, ranging from plug-and-play to more involved upgrades, considering space constraints, OEM integration, and bass improvement. Option 1: Direct Replacement with an Aftermarket 8 or 9 Subwoofer - Description : Swap the stock subwoofer with a high-performance 8 or 9 subwoofer that fits the OEM enclosure in the rear hatch. - Examples : - Kicker CompRT8 8 Subwoofer (2-ohm, 300W RMS, 84.8 dB sensitivity) : Slim design, suitable for OEM enclosures. - JL Audio 8W3v3-4 8 Subwoofer (4-ohm, 150W RMS, 83 dB sensitivity) : High excursion for deeper bass, fits tight spaces. - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8 Subwoofer (2-ohm, 150W RMS, 82 dB sensitivity) : Punchy bass, robust build.

If anyone is interested, I’ll post my thoughts as I work each solution.

I haven’t heard of anybody getting any sort of substantial low end out of replacing the stock sub in the lift gate.

It’s super shallow, most solutions involve a self-powered sub under a seat.

 

[Rubicon15]

I haven’t heard of anybody getting any sort of substantial low end out of replacing the stock sub in the lift gate.

It’s super shallow, most solutions involve a self-powered sub under a seat.

I was thinking about the Audison 6.5 2 ohms speakers. That is, if you own a 6 speaker 1958. The parallel wiring of the front 4 speakers is a bit unusual.

 

[Thx_1158]

I haven’t heard of anybody getting any sort of substantial low end out of replacing the stock sub in the lift gate.

It’s super shallow, most solutions involve a self-powered sub under a seat.

I understand that. I'm going to replace the door speakers with the mid woofers. I will discuss the powered subs tomorrow, but I'm more interested in not having to modify the system beyond speaker swaps unless I feel like I have to.

 

[Rubicon15]

I understand that. I'm going to replace the door speakers with the mid woofers. I will discuss the powered subs tomorrow, but I'm more interested in not having to modify the system beyond speaker swaps unless I feel like I have to.

After researching the Beats amp, I feel the same way. For the 1958, you need an amp rated at 2-4 ohms. Which door speakers are you considering?

 

[Thx_1158]

After researching the Beats amp, I feel the same way. For the 1958, you need an amp rated at 2-4 ohms. Which door speakers are you considering?

The Audison 6.5 2 ohm.

 

[CrayLC]

I was not fully pleased with the JBL system in my LC LC. I've had worse, but I've had much better, such as in my 17 Golf R. Considering this LC is my first venture into what I consider luxury territory, I was expecting much more. Aside from the sound quality being muddy and lackluster, I was really surprised how much the doors rattled even at neutral bass. So, I decided to upgrade the speakers and add sound-deadening. I also was not really interested in adding amps and thankfully now I won't need to do so. Here is what I used:

• JL Audio C2-350x 3.5" in the dash corners
• Kenwood Excelon KFC-X3C 3.5" in the dash center (there wasn't enough depth for another C2 and I had the Kenwood on hand from a previous Jeep project)
• Front doors
  • JL Audio C2-690tx 6"x9"
  • Metra 82-8246 mounting brackets (they work by drilling two new holes to match the OEM locations)
  • Stinger Roadkill RKFR69 FAST Rings (baffles)
  • I had tried a mid/woofer at first, but then realized a full signal is going to the door. Aside from how much sound was lost with that first attempt, one of the forum members had posted a document from Toyota Japan that showed a full signal to the doors. The JL Audio speakers I ultimately used, really help improve the overall sound quality when combined with the new dash speakers.
• Back doors
  • JL Audio C2-650x 6.5"
  • Metra 82-8148 mounting brackets
  • Stinger Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings (baffles)
• Metra 72-8109 speaker wiring adapters for all locations
• Dynamat Xtreme
• Dynamat Dynaliner 1/4"

I'm not an audio expert, but I selected the JL Audio speakers based on:

• Previous experience
• Warm sound and great sound quality
• High sensitivity for working off the stock amp

I took my time over a few weekends and I'm really impressed with the results. It was my first foray in using sound deadening to this extent. I would estimate around up to 25% coverage with the Xtreme and around 30-40 with the Dynaliner. I did not want to remove the vapor liner (in the back doors) or go crazy inside the doors. Here are my key subjective results:

• Significantly clearer sound played with a reduced need for volume. Prior to the upgrade, I listened in the range of 35 to 55. Now I can listen easily from 25 to 45.
• The bass is impressive. I'm still not sure how much the subwoofer in the hatch is doing, but the new speakers in the front doors throw appreciable and solid bass.
• Much quieter while cruising, such that I mainly hear wind noise by the A-pillars.
• I use the surround function enabled now. It sounded harsh/irritating with the OEM speakers, but really fills the space with the improved speakers.

Some other random notes:

• I listen to a wide range of music, including alternative, indie, rock, electronic, industrial, etc. and it all sounds great.
• I bought Kicker 3.5" speakers for the hatch, but there is remarkably little depth for aftermarket speakers and reinstalled the OEM ones. I added sound deadening, while I was in there.
• Taking off door panels in new vehicles always freaks me out the first time. The front and rear doors were fine. The hatch, however, made me feel as though I was going to break something in some areas.
• I didn't bother doing anything with the subwoofer in the hatch. I'm not sure it's doing much, so it wasn't worth upgrading at the moment.
• I did not touch the small tweeters in the pillar or upper back door.
• The OEM speakers look weird (except for the back door ones that seem fairly normal). The front door and dash speakers have a lot of plastic framing in front of the cones. I suppose it keeps them rigid, but seems as though they would block the emission of sound.

All items were purchased from www.crutchfield.com

Did you install an amplifier for the speakers? or just straight plug and play with the speakers?

If you did do an amp - did you find a location for one?