JBL Upgrade w/o Amp

I think it’s in another thread, but my point of view on this is that the stock amp isn’t powerful enough to move a high quality aftermarket 6x9 speaker and it’s possible the stock cone would deliver more output quantitatively speaking. I’ve got the JL 6x9 3-way speakers in there now and they do sound to me like they could use a bit more push.

Since the Beatsonic amp isn’t very expensive and installs quicker than I thought, I went ahead and ordered one. I’ll report back once I get it in.
The amp drives the JL Audio C2 6x9s very well due to their efficiency. Granted a more powerful amp would probably not hurt . 🙂
 
I dropped in my JL Audio 3.5” speakers in the dash corners this morning. That is a 1 out of 5 difficulty project and can easily be done in under an hour.

After I’d gotten one speaker in, I decided to pick up my phone and film the second speaker install with some commentary. Maybe this will be useful to anyone else doing this install.

There is nothing challenging about this install at all. For $145 plus an hour of time, it’s an no-brainer upgrade. I immediately noticed better midrange and more descriptive highs. The midrange is what makes the sound pop through the road noise.

I’ll be installing the 6x9s in the front doors next. Not planning to change the speakers in the rear doors; to my ears those are mainly just creating filler sound from the back.

It would be nice to add some more amp power. You can tell the amps in these are a little wimpy. That’s a whole different level of project from a complexity and cost standpoint and beyond my interest at this point.


Thanks for the video. Just did this on my 1958 and it’s a huge improvement. Sucked doing it in 100 degree heat but at least it’s quick.
If interested, here are the resulting equalizer settings that worked for me.
These settings works for me as well thank you!

For anyone wondering before and after:
 

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I did this with the JL’s in the dash. The proximity of the two tweeters cause an issue with harshness to my ears. I pulled the JL’s and went with a Hertz 3” full range. Much better sound.
 
I did this with the JL’s in the dash. The proximity of the two tweeters cause an issue with harshness to my ears. I pulled the JL’s and went with a Hertz 3” full range. Much better sound.
Oh dang I got my tweeters coming in next week. Hopefully I don’t notice that issue
 
Oh dang I got my tweeters coming in next week. Hopefully I don’t notice that issue
Lots of folks do this swap. It’s better than stock, but for me, the sound was too bright and harsh.
 
You could disconnect the ones in the A pillar. The tweeters in the JL Audio speakers are better.
 
I was not fully pleased with the JBL system in my LC LC. I've had worse, but I've had much better, such as in my 17 Golf R. Considering this LC is my first venture into what I consider luxury territory, I was expecting much more. Aside from the sound quality being muddy and lackluster, I was really surprised how much the doors rattled even at neutral bass. So, I decided to upgrade the speakers and add sound-deadening. I also was not really interested in adding amps and thankfully now I won't need to do so. Here is what I used:
  • JL Audio C2-350x 3.5" in the dash corners
  • Kenwood Excelon KFC-X3C 3.5" in the dash center (there wasn't enough depth for another C2 and I had the Kenwood on hand from a previous Jeep project)
  • Front doors
    • JL Audio C2-690tx 6"x9"
    • Metra 82-8246 mounting brackets (they work by drilling two new holes to match the OEM locations)
    • Stinger Roadkill RKFR69 FAST Rings (baffles)
    • I had tried a mid/woofer at first, but then realized a full signal is going to the door. Aside from how much sound was lost with that first attempt, one of the forum members had posted a document from Toyota Japan that showed a full signal to the doors. The JL Audio speakers I ultimately used, really help improve the overall sound quality when combined with the new dash speakers.
  • Back doors
    • JL Audio C2-650x 6.5"
    • Metra 82-8148 mounting brackets
    • Stinger Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings (baffles)
  • Metra 72-8109 speaker wiring adapters for all locations
  • Dynamat Xtreme
  • Dynamat Dynaliner 1/4"
I'm not an audio expert, but I selected the JL Audio speakers based on:
  • Previous experience
  • Warm sound and great sound quality
  • High sensitivity for working off the stock amp
I took my time over a few weekends and I'm really impressed with the results. It was my first foray in using sound deadening to this extent. I would estimate around up to 25% coverage with the Xtreme and around 30-40 with the Dynaliner. I did not want to remove the vapor liner (in the back doors) or go crazy inside the doors. Here are my key subjective results:
  • Significantly clearer sound played with a reduced need for volume. Prior to the upgrade, I listened in the range of 35 to 55. Now I can listen easily from 25 to 45.
  • The bass is impressive. I'm still not sure how much the subwoofer in the hatch is doing, but the new speakers in the front doors throw appreciable and solid bass.
  • Much quieter while cruising, such that I mainly hear wind noise by the A-pillars.
  • I use the surround function enabled now. It sounded harsh/irritating with the OEM speakers, but really fills the space with the improved speakers.
Some other random notes:
  • I listen to a wide range of music, including alternative, indie, rock, electronic, industrial, etc. and it all sounds great.
  • I bought Kicker 3.5" speakers for the hatch, but there is remarkably little depth for aftermarket speakers and reinstalled the OEM ones. I added sound deadening, while I was in there.
  • Taking off door panels in new vehicles always freaks me out the first time. The front and rear doors were fine. The hatch, however, made me feel as though I was going to break something in some areas.
  • I didn't bother doing anything with the subwoofer in the hatch. I'm not sure it's doing much, so it wasn't worth upgrading at the moment.
  • I did not touch the small tweeters in the pillar or upper back door.
  • The OEM speakers look weird (except for the back door ones that seem fairly normal). The front door and dash speakers have a lot of plastic framing in front of the cones. I suppose it keeps them rigid, but seems as though they would block the emission of sound.
All items were purchased from www.crutchfield.com
I just installed new door and dash speakers, replacing the 8" sub now on a 2025 LC250 with premium JBL. Looks like the factory sub in 2.5 ohms, the 4 ohm Pioneer TS-A2000LD2 that I'm putting in its place is fitted and ready for wiring. I am a bit confused and concerned about hooking it up because of the factory wiring harness. There are 4 wires in the factory connector, 2 white (seem to be positives), one black and one blue. Do you know if the black and blue are both negatives and if so do I need to run one set to each set of terminals on the new sub? Or do I run both positives to one red terminal and both negatives to the corresponding black terminal on the new speak, and run them in parallel to get it down to 2 ohms? I know just enough about this is get myself into trouble. Thanks for any input
Ethan
 
I was not fully pleased with the JBL system in my LC LC. I've had worse, but I've had much better, such as in my 17 Golf R. Considering this LC is my first venture into what I consider luxury territory, I was expecting much more. Aside from the sound quality being muddy and lackluster, I was really surprised how much the doors rattled even at neutral bass. So, I decided to upgrade the speakers and add sound-deadening. I also was not really interested in adding amps and thankfully now I won't need to do so. Here is what I used:
  • JL Audio C2-350x 3.5" in the dash corners
  • Kenwood Excelon KFC-X3C 3.5" in the dash center (there wasn't enough depth for another C2 and I had the Kenwood on hand from a previous Jeep project)
  • Front doors
    • JL Audio C2-690tx 6"x9"
    • Metra 82-8246 mounting brackets (they work by drilling two new holes to match the OEM locations)
    • Stinger Roadkill RKFR69 FAST Rings (baffles)
    • I had tried a mid/woofer at first, but then realized a full signal is going to the door. Aside from how much sound was lost with that first attempt, one of the forum members had posted a document from Toyota Japan that showed a full signal to the doors. The JL Audio speakers I ultimately used, really help improve the overall sound quality when combined with the new dash speakers.
  • Back doors
    • JL Audio C2-650x 6.5"
    • Metra 82-8148 mounting brackets
    • Stinger Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings (baffles)
  • Metra 72-8109 speaker wiring adapters for all locations
  • Dynamat Xtreme
  • Dynamat Dynaliner 1/4"
I'm not an audio expert, but I selected the JL Audio speakers based on:
  • Previous experience
  • Warm sound and great sound quality
  • High sensitivity for working off the stock amp
I took my time over a few weekends and I'm really impressed with the results. It was my first foray in using sound deadening to this extent. I would estimate around up to 25% coverage with the Xtreme and around 30-40 with the Dynaliner. I did not want to remove the vapor liner (in the back doors) or go crazy inside the doors. Here are my key subjective results:
  • Significantly clearer sound played with a reduced need for volume. Prior to the upgrade, I listened in the range of 35 to 55. Now I can listen easily from 25 to 45.
  • The bass is impressive. I'm still not sure how much the subwoofer in the hatch is doing, but the new speakers in the front doors throw appreciable and solid bass.
  • Much quieter while cruising, such that I mainly hear wind noise by the A-pillars.
  • I use the surround function enabled now. It sounded harsh/irritating with the OEM speakers, but really fills the space with the improved speakers.
Some other random notes:
  • I listen to a wide range of music, including alternative, indie, rock, electronic, industrial, etc. and it all sounds great.
  • I bought Kicker 3.5" speakers for the hatch, but there is remarkably little depth for aftermarket speakers and reinstalled the OEM ones. I added sound deadening, while I was in there.
  • Taking off door panels in new vehicles always freaks me out the first time. The front and rear doors were fine. The hatch, however, made me feel as though I was going to break something in some areas.
  • I didn't bother doing anything with the subwoofer in the hatch. I'm not sure it's doing much, so it wasn't worth upgrading at the moment.
  • I did not touch the small tweeters in the pillar or upper back door.
  • The OEM speakers look weird (except for the back door ones that seem fairly normal). The front door and dash speakers have a lot of plastic framing in front of the cones. I suppose it keeps them rigid, but seems as though they would block the emission of sound.
All items were purchased from www.crutchfield.com
I just installed new door and dash speakers, replacing the 8" sub now on a 2025 LC250 with premium JBL. Looks like the factory sub in 2.5 ohms, the 4 ohm Pioneer TS-A2000LD2 that I'm putting in its place is fitted and ready for wiring. I am a bit confused and concerned about hooking it up because of the factory wiring harness. There are 4 wires in the factory connector, 2 white (seem to be positives), one black and one blue. Do you know if the black and blue are both negatives and if so do I need to run one set to each set of terminals on the new sub? Or do I run both positives to one red terminal and both negatives to the corresponding black terminal on the new speak, and run them in parallel to get it down to 2 ohms? I know just enough about this is get myself into trouble. Thanks for any input
Ethan
 
I just installed new door and dash speakers, replacing the 8" sub now on a 2025 LC250 with premium JBL. Looks like the factory sub in 2.5 ohms, the 4 ohm Pioneer TS-A2000LD2 that I'm putting in its place is fitted and ready for wiring. I am a bit confused and concerned about hooking it up because of the factory wiring harness. There are 4 wires in the factory connector, 2 white (seem to be positives), one black and one blue. Do you know if the black and blue are both negatives and if so do I need to run one set to each set of terminals on the new sub? Or do I run both positives to one red terminal and both negatives to the corresponding black terminal on the new speak, and run them in parallel to get it down to 2 ohms? I know just enough about this is get myself into trouble. Thanks for any input
Ethan
I’m unfortunately not aware of the wiring specifics for the subwoofer. Since barely any sound was coming out of it, I didn’t bother upgrading.
 
I think it’s in another thread, but my point of view on this is that the stock amp isn’t powerful enough to move a high quality aftermarket 6x9 speaker and it’s possible the stock cone would deliver more output quantitatively speaking. I’ve got the JL 6x9 3-way speakers in there now and they do sound to me like they could use a bit more push.

Since the Beatsonic amp isn’t very expensive and installs quicker than I thought, I went ahead and ordered one. I’ll report back once I get it in.
Have you installed the Beatsonic amp? Please update if you have.
 
Have you installed the Beatsonic amp? Please update if you have.
I have. That install was straightforward and Beatsonic’s installation instructions and videos are quite comprehensive. You have to have the stomach to disassemble your dashboard pretty completely, but I followed the directions step by step and everything worked fine.

Well worth doing. The amp provides substantially more girth to the system. It’s not super sophisticated - I’m sure it is intercepting the speaker level output from the head unit, converting that to line level, then re-amplifying it. It’s sending the same full-range signal to the door speakers and the dash speakers, and I’m still not clear how the OEM door speakers could be 2 ohms, run parallel with the 4ohm dash speakers, and not cause issues with an amp. But my aftermarket door speakers are 4 ohms, so the total impedance there is a non problematic 2.

For the money and effort, a good outcome.
 
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Did the amp make a noticeable change to the 6X9s?
Mostly in terms of perceived headroom. I probably don’t listen to the system any louder with the amp than I did without it. But that same volume level comes at a notably lower volume gain and the system seems not to be working as hard. The very low end projects in a more relaxed way.

As I read what I just wrote there, it sounds like audio mumbo jumbo. But you get the idea.
 
Mostly in terms of perceived headroom. I probably don’t listen to the system any louder with the amp than I did without it. But that same volume level comes at a notably lower volume gain and the system seems not to be working as hard. The very low end projects in a more relaxed way.

As I read what I just wrote there, it sounds like audio mumbo jumbo. But you get the idea.
Gotcha! I'm going to start w/ the 2 dash & beat sonic amp + add a single 10/12 sub in cargo. I love the placement of battery in the cargo area. It's going to make it that much easier for install!

I dont want bone shaking bass, which is why i'm only getting a single sub. Looking at the powered units from JL Audio & Kicker at the moment.
 
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