🛠️ What Have You Done To Your LC250 Today?
- Thread starter pnwlandcruiser_
- Start date
Whence comes this splendid badge?
I put the same puddle light on mine
New winter tires for my 2025 LC! 
For the winter season, I changed from my stock 20-inch rims and purchased 18-inch rims. Then went with Falken AT-3's (265/70R18). Got another set of tire pressure sensors too. Hey, it's only money...
Also, I found out that the information display can hold 2 sets of tire pressure sensors...
For the winter season, I changed from my stock 20-inch rims and purchased 18-inch rims. Then went with Falken AT-3's (265/70R18). Got another set of tire pressure sensors too. Hey, it's only money...
Also, I found out that the information display can hold 2 sets of tire pressure sensors...
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I just put new shoes for winter on my stock 18" rims, I'm waiting on Nomad to put out the right size of these wheels then I'll run separate winter/summer as wellNew winter tires for my 2025 LC!
For the winter season, I changed from my stock 20-inch rims and purchased 18-inch rims. Then went with Falken AT-3's (265/70R18). Got another set of tire pressure sensors too. Hey, it's only money...
Also, I found out that the information display can hold 2 sets of tire pressure sensors...
I changed out the summer air in Miss Daisy’s OEM Michelins, to winter air.
New winter tires for my 2025 LC!
For the winter season, I changed from my stock 20-inch rims and purchased 18-inch rims. Then went with Falken AT-3's (265/70R18). Got another set of tire pressure sensors too. Hey, it's only money...
Also, I found out that the information display can hold 2 sets of tire pressure sensors...
Why yes- yes it can. Once both sets of TPMS/wheels/tires have been recognized by the Land Cruiser, you can choose between set 1 and set 2 in the instrument cluster menus. You may have to prompt the vehicle to recognize the other set by selecting "register new valve ID" after a tire change, but you won't have to visit the dealership or a tire shop to program anything unless the installer simply cloned the TPMS ID over to your second set.
I've never seen one like this. I like it!
Removed stock rear shocks and replaced with Fox 2.0 Performance Series.
I have a ten mile loop of crappy back roads and some washboard gravel roads so far. Handling on road doesn’t seem impacted noticeably, imperfections in the road are way less dramatic and the washboard sections are hugely improved.
It’s fairly annoying that Toyota didn’t just equip the truck with decent shocks to start with…
Anyways behind my 29 gallon main fuel tank upgrade this is the best $400 I’ve ever spent on a truck haha
I have a ten mile loop of crappy back roads and some washboard gravel roads so far. Handling on road doesn’t seem impacted noticeably, imperfections in the road are way less dramatic and the washboard sections are hugely improved.
It’s fairly annoying that Toyota didn’t just equip the truck with decent shocks to start with…
Anyways behind my 29 gallon main fuel tank upgrade this is the best $400 I’ve ever spent on a truck haha
- Jul 7, 2025
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- '25 LC 1958 || '25 Sequoia LTD TRD || '05 TJR || '24 Polaris Ranger 1000 Crew
Quick question, as I’ve been eyeing these while waiting for Bilstein to offer something to compete w/ OME for my business.
After settling, is there a noticeable lift? Assume you went with shocks only and no reservoir based on the price you mentioned.
I didn’t measure, but don’t see any noticeable lift.
And yes, these are the base model no reservoir, no DSC or any of that jazz.
What are your thoughts on BP-51s? Between them and Dobinsons, OME seems better for a daily driver, and I’m not interested in the maintenance cycles of the Kings and Icons. I’m pulling the trigger on something soon.
- Jul 7, 2025
- 1,809
- Media
- 242
- 2,747
- Vehicles
- '25 LC 1958 || '25 Sequoia LTD TRD || '05 TJR || '24 Polaris Ranger 1000 Crew
I’m not sure I plan on doing anything to justify the 51s for me. I am keeping the 64 0’s on my short list though.
I really have zero interest in a level or lift, and everything out there is giving 1-3” in the front. I was hoping the market would mature, but I honestly fear that with the new 4R out our offerings have reached full maturation from the usual providers.
LCLC - Wind Chill Pearl -
Thought I got the cool box on my '26 but it became an option. I was actually thrilled about it and purchased this for organization Amazon.com
It's excellent.
Full Toyota OEM Skids for front skid, transfer plate, rear diff. Need to have them installed as they're sitting in my garage right now.
PPF on full Front of Vehicle and 24 inches up the hood and sides / Tint on all windows except the windshield. Back windows are really dark now and I tinted the front two just a shade darker than the legal limit. I didn't realize before that the "tinted" glass in the rear of the vehicles is actually just stained privacy glass. There is no UV protection, heat reduction, etc., in factory stained glass. Learn something new every day.
Nokian Hakkas 275/70/18's on Stock 18 rims. Also put a spare on in the same size - general A/T tire. I'll be running Toyo A/T III EV's on Method's in the Spring. I want to go with the EV's because they're lighter than the standard Toyo A/T III's. I've still not read enough about them yet. If I'm not convinced they'll perform, especially aired down, then I'll stick with the AT IIIs. I really like the weight reduction on the EV's and those tires with the Method 703's (17's) should be a lighter wheel package all the way around. There has been a noticeable difference once I added the E rated Nokians and the respective additional weight over the Goodyear OEM tires. I don't mind the ride but there is a slower acceleration to be sure.
Victory front recovery points - black. En Route
Stereo System Upgrade - Being installed next week.
Adding JL Audio Vxi Series 8 Full-Range Amp with Integrated DSP.
Adding WavTech link500
Adding JL Audio Subwoofer, custom enclosure, down firing, Land Cruiser lettering.
Adding Subwoofer Amplifier
There are plenty of other odds/ends for install necessary but these are the main components. By far the most expensive mod that I'll be doing on this vehicle is the stereo system upgrade.
I'll shoot an updated picture of it when I get a chance to give it a proper detail: strip wax, clay bar, glaze, sealant, wax. Takes about 3 days and I work on the interior and wheel protectant while the sealant cures ( about 18 hours) before I can finally hit it with the final wax the following day. Brutal process, especially with all of the trim taping that I'm going to have to do on this vehicle. There is plenty to keep busy. I've never taped trim in my life to detail a vehicle but there is way too much black plastic on this thing just waiting to catch some product that's a bitch to get off. I'd rather deal with the taping, I think.
Next mod up will be the wheels and tires in the spring. I need to let my bank account recover. lol
I love this vehicle. It's a lot of fun to drive, looks cool, has plenty of power to handle the Colorado Rockies and mountain passes too. We're finally getting some snow, and I'm looking forward to putting her through the paces once it dumps.
'
Thought I got the cool box on my '26 but it became an option. I was actually thrilled about it and purchased this for organization Amazon.com
It's excellent.
Full Toyota OEM Skids for front skid, transfer plate, rear diff. Need to have them installed as they're sitting in my garage right now.
PPF on full Front of Vehicle and 24 inches up the hood and sides / Tint on all windows except the windshield. Back windows are really dark now and I tinted the front two just a shade darker than the legal limit. I didn't realize before that the "tinted" glass in the rear of the vehicles is actually just stained privacy glass. There is no UV protection, heat reduction, etc., in factory stained glass. Learn something new every day.
Nokian Hakkas 275/70/18's on Stock 18 rims. Also put a spare on in the same size - general A/T tire. I'll be running Toyo A/T III EV's on Method's in the Spring. I want to go with the EV's because they're lighter than the standard Toyo A/T III's. I've still not read enough about them yet. If I'm not convinced they'll perform, especially aired down, then I'll stick with the AT IIIs. I really like the weight reduction on the EV's and those tires with the Method 703's (17's) should be a lighter wheel package all the way around. There has been a noticeable difference once I added the E rated Nokians and the respective additional weight over the Goodyear OEM tires. I don't mind the ride but there is a slower acceleration to be sure.
Victory front recovery points - black. En Route
Stereo System Upgrade - Being installed next week.
Adding JL Audio Vxi Series 8 Full-Range Amp with Integrated DSP.
Adding WavTech link500
Adding JL Audio Subwoofer, custom enclosure, down firing, Land Cruiser lettering.
Adding Subwoofer Amplifier
There are plenty of other odds/ends for install necessary but these are the main components. By far the most expensive mod that I'll be doing on this vehicle is the stereo system upgrade.
I'll shoot an updated picture of it when I get a chance to give it a proper detail: strip wax, clay bar, glaze, sealant, wax. Takes about 3 days and I work on the interior and wheel protectant while the sealant cures ( about 18 hours) before I can finally hit it with the final wax the following day. Brutal process, especially with all of the trim taping that I'm going to have to do on this vehicle. There is plenty to keep busy. I've never taped trim in my life to detail a vehicle but there is way too much black plastic on this thing just waiting to catch some product that's a bitch to get off. I'd rather deal with the taping, I think.
Next mod up will be the wheels and tires in the spring. I need to let my bank account recover. lol
I love this vehicle. It's a lot of fun to drive, looks cool, has plenty of power to handle the Colorado Rockies and mountain passes too. We're finally getting some snow, and I'm looking forward to putting her through the paces once it dumps.
'
Added 1” front level and 34’s 
Welcome to the asylum.Added 1” front level and 34’s
Welcome to the Jungle!Added 1” front level and 34’s
Installed Durobumps bump stops in the front. Initial read is a gigantic improvement in comfort when bottoming out.
I don’t do a lot of heavy off-roading (mostly just gravel roads sometimes with mud, beaches and some trickier access to said beaches). But I live on a mountain and there are a lot of big dips that on the descent at the PSL of 50 can bottom you out at the inflection point. And I do fairly often. And it isn’t pretty.
Anyways first run down the mountain and for sure-it’s not even close-the experience is wayyyy better and I’m sure it’s easier on the truck.
Install required a few specialty tools… you need a giant adjustable wrench (I have an 18” luckily, it was barely big enough). You need give or take 56mm (2.2”) wide jaws to get the oem stops off.
Then, getting the new ones on, honestly idk how you’re supposed to do it but I had to use a short 14mm socket attached to a tite-reach attachment and then the other end attached to my ratchet. And it BARELY would squeeze between the stop and the control arm with the tire lifted off the ground.
Possibly would have had more space had I thought to electronically disconnect the front stabilizer?
Anyways, it’s a solid upgrade if you’re looking to reduce the drama.
I don’t do a lot of heavy off-roading (mostly just gravel roads sometimes with mud, beaches and some trickier access to said beaches). But I live on a mountain and there are a lot of big dips that on the descent at the PSL of 50 can bottom you out at the inflection point. And I do fairly often. And it isn’t pretty.
Anyways first run down the mountain and for sure-it’s not even close-the experience is wayyyy better and I’m sure it’s easier on the truck.
Install required a few specialty tools… you need a giant adjustable wrench (I have an 18” luckily, it was barely big enough). You need give or take 56mm (2.2”) wide jaws to get the oem stops off.
Then, getting the new ones on, honestly idk how you’re supposed to do it but I had to use a short 14mm socket attached to a tite-reach attachment and then the other end attached to my ratchet. And it BARELY would squeeze between the stop and the control arm with the tire lifted off the ground.
Possibly would have had more space had I thought to electronically disconnect the front stabilizer?
Anyways, it’s a solid upgrade if you’re looking to reduce the drama.
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