Rear recovery point options?

[EOD Guy]

Would this work for pulling a stuck LC from the front? Loop one of the looped ends of a long (20 foot) dynamic recovery rope around a short (10 foot) dynamic recovery rope. Attach each end of the short rope to each the LC's front 2 recovery points, probably using 2 soft shackles. Slide the looped end of the long rope to the middle of the short rope. Pull out LC with another vehicle attached to the other end of the long rope with another soft shackle.

For pulls (either of a stuck LC or another vehicle) using the LC rear, use the same method with the LC's off-center rear recovery point and a hitch receiver mounted recovery point.

Depending on the level of stuck.......... Sometimes it's beneficial to pull from one side ie.... pulling someone out of a snow filled/Mudd caked ditch, with pulling vehicle on the road and the stuck vehicle's pull point offset, the stuck vehicle would naturally turn the opposite direction of the offset and assist in the vehicle climbing out of the ditch.

Sometimes when a vehicle is buried to the axles in sticky mud, and you literally have to yank it a few feet at a time, the bridle method works best. If you are pulling up a steep incline and need to guide the vehicle due to obstacles (trees) etc........ the bridle method may be more effective than an offset pull.

Each recovery is different and there is often, more than one solution. The key, IMO, is to come up with a plan, have the appropriate gear to execute that plan and be ready to modify the plan when the first version didn't work as expected.

My personal recovery kit includes a tree saver, short soft shackles, long shackles, stupid long shackles, bow shackles, 6 and 8' bridles, 200' of 5/8" Amsteel rope, 2 - 30' Yankum kinetic ropes, 4 synthetic rope pulleys, two DIY 4-1 mechanical advantage steel pulleys, solid alum receiver tow point, leather gloves, a small 2-ton chain hoist and several carrying bags/cases. Do I use it a lot....... no. Have I used it all at some point........ yes. Depending on where 'm headed and others in the group.

 

[Ed1]

@EOD Guy Do you have any room for people in that vehicle?!?

 

[Q8_250]

What equalizer straps are you using? This isn’t a part of my recovery kit, would love to learn more.

I use Tree Hugger by Bubba Rope, but i don’t remember if it was 6” or 10”.

Would this work for pulling a stuck LC from the front? Loop one of the looped ends of a long (20 foot) dynamic recovery rope around a short (10 foot) dynamic recovery rope. Attach each end of the short rope to each the LC's front 2 recovery points, probably using 2 soft shackles. Slide the looped end of the long rope to the middle of the short rope. Pull out LC with another vehicle attached to the other end of the long rope with another soft shackle.

For pulls (either of a stuck LC or another vehicle) using the LC rear, use the same method with the LC's off-center rear recovery point and a hitch receiver mounted recovery point.

You can always find videos like this with better explanations:

 

[RideWithYanu]

I use Tree Hugger by Bubba Rope, but i don’t remember if it was 6” or 10”.



You can always find videos like this with better explanations:

Sweet, thanks. I do have a tree hugger in my kit already. Appreciate you!

 

[Q8_250]

NYTOP mirrored recovery point — I’m really looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

A quick word about NYTOP: they’ve been incredibly responsive and supportive. They clearly explained the potential challenges of mounting the mirrored recovery point, but were fully on board when I decided to move forward. From order to delivery, everything was done in just four weeks. Great experience so far!


View attachment 57050

I’d like to see how it works, on driver side since there is no place for bolts, and the exhaust/spare tire might need to be moved to make room for work on that side.

 

[JFinCA]

I think someone posted above that the shear rating of the mounting bolts also needs to be considered when judging the overall weight-pulling strength of any recovery point. How would one determine this? Some recovery points come with their own bolts, but most use the OEM bolts already on the vehicle.

I also am wondering how to judge the strength of the hitch pin when using a hitch-mounted rear recovery point (with a hole for a soft shackle). Isn't the hitch pin the weakest link in that setup? Is a bolted-on rear (slightly sideward) mounting point stronger/better than using a hitch-mounted point?

None of the specs for available recovery point options discuss bolt or hitch pin strength.

Has it been determined that replacing the OEM recovery points does in fact provide increased pulling strength limits? I know someone mentioned that the OEM points might only be good for tie downs, but I think someone else mentioned that he has used the OEM points for multiple recoveries without a problem.

(My potential recovery situation would be soft beach sand.)

You are absolutely correct that the whole system needs to be considered, not just the recover point hardware. My intent was to highlight the pivoting action around the mounting bolt of the Bonobo.

As far as hitch pins go, mine came with one from Toyota, so what ever rating it is is good enough for me. Would hope that the pin gives way before the frame, lol.
I also heard that the stock points were only for tie-downs and not for recovery, which why I upgraded. After taking off the OEM point, my assessment seems that they are quite beefy and to me could pass for recovery grade points.

Btw, I already put the Yankum receiver point to use on a static pull recovery of a pickup truck that hydrolocked in some water. It was a light job but glad I made use of it already at the local OHV park.

 

[EOD Guy]

IMO recovery points on the rear are redundant. The tow hitch is the strongest point on the rear of the vehicle. I can't think of a situation where an alum soft shackle insert wouldn't be used.

Just my opinion tho'

 

[EOD Guy]

You are absolutely correct that the whole system needs to be considered, not just the recover point hardware. My intent was to highlight the pivoting action around the mounting bolt of the Bonobo.

As far as hitch pins go, mine came with one from Toyota, so what ever rating it is is good enough for me. Would hope that the pin gives way before the frame, lol.
I also heard that the stock points were only for tie-downs and not for recovery, which why I upgraded. After taking off the OEM point, my assessment seems that they are quite beefy and to me could pass for recovery grade points.

Btw, I already put the Yankum receiver point to use on a static pull recovery of a pickup truck that hydrolocked in some water. It was a light job but glad I made use of it already at the local OHV park.

You are correct OEM points are tie-down points. I still don't believe they would fail with non-stupid pulling.

 

[sweet5ltr]

IMO recovery points on the rear are redundant. The tow hitch is the strongest point on the rear of the vehicle. I can't think of a situation where an alum soft shackle insert wouldn't be used.

Just my opinion tho'

Yeah, the rated recovery points are massive, mine were likely 10-lbs of steel each with three additional bolts that keep it mounted to the frame. I have no doubt the standard 'tie down points' would be an issue regardless. I know in Australia, there have far more stringent and strict regulations regarding safety equipment.

 

[LCOceans]

IMO recovery points on the rear are redundant. The tow hitch is the strongest point on the rear of the vehicle. I can't think of a situation where an alum soft shackle insert wouldn't be used.

Just my opinion tho'

I was thinking the same, but confused by this thread. I have a factor55 hitchlink 2.0 and soft shackles for my tow hitch. Is this the strongest way to tow or be towed from the rear or would it be best to distribute the stress over two areas (2 rear recovery points)?

 

[EOD Guy]

I was thinking the same, but confused by this thread. I have a factor55 hitchlink 2.0 and soft shackles for my tow hitch. Is this the strongest way to tow or be towed from the rear or would it be best to distribute the stress over two areas (2 rear recovery points)?

Think of it like this, the tow rating of the LC is 6k which means the hitch is rated for more than that and is the strongest part of the LC. Pulling on the receiver hitch with a proper attachment, gives you a double shear on the hitch pin and the hitch itself is bolted with many bolts and many directions to the frame, and is the strongest connection/pulling point possible.

The rear recovery points are attached with two bolts to the frame (not as strong as the many bolts used in the hitch mount). So when you pull from one recovery point all the stresses are transferred to that single point in the frame (two bolts). When you use a bridle, you are pulling from two points (four bolts).

Do I think a recovery point will fail before the frame bends...... No
Do I think recovery points are a bad choice...... No

Do I think the receiver hitch, given a choice, is the best choice ......... resounding Yes

 

[grandsons]

he tow rating of the LC is 6k which means the hitch is rated for more than that and is the strongest part of the LC. Pulling on the receiver hitch with a proper attachment, gives you a double shear on the hitch pin and the hitch itself is bolted with many bolts and many directions to the frame, and is the strongest connection/pulling point possible.

The tow hitch is a complex assembly mounted beneath the rear crossmember, typically positioned below rather than centered on it. This crossmember is connected to the longitudinal side rails, which together form the chassis frame. Towing from a conventional hitch introduces multiple torque and leverage effects into the structure. Initially, a twisting moment is applied to the rear crossmember, which then transmits the pulling load to the chassis primarily through bending.


Although a hitch may be rated for 6,000 lb, the actual forces transmitted by the trailer are proportional to the vehicle’s acceleration or deceleration and, under normal operating conditions, remain well below 1 g.


Distributing the load directly to the longitudinal side rails provides a more direct load path and significantly reduces the combined bending and torsional stresses on the rear crossmember. Depending on bridle length, the resulting forces are typically limited to a few hundred pounds, with the crossmember primarily loaded in compression. This represents a simpler load case with a reduced risk of chassis deformation.


The NYTOP rear recovery points are rated with a working load limit (WLL) of 10,000 lb each, for a combined rating of 20,000 lb. However, this figure should be treated with caution. It is unlikely that a recovery performed through a tow hitch would withstand loads of this magnitude without chassis or beam bending.

 

[EOD Guy]

The tow hitch is a complex assembly mounted beneath the rear crossmember, typically positioned below rather than centered on it. This crossmember is connected to the longitudinal side rails, which together form the chassis frame. Towing from a conventional hitch introduces multiple torque and leverage effects into the structure. Initially, a twisting moment is applied to the rear crossmember, which then transmits the pulling load to the chassis primarily through bending.


Although a hitch may be rated for 6,000 lb, the actual forces transmitted by the trailer are proportional to the vehicle’s acceleration or deceleration and, under normal operating conditions, remain well below 1 g.


Distributing the load directly to the longitudinal side rails provides a more direct load path and significantly reduces the combined bending and torsional stresses on the rear crossmember. Depending on bridle length, the resulting forces are typically limited to a few hundred pounds, with the crossmember primarily loaded in compression. This represents a simpler load case with a reduced risk of chassis deformation.


The NYTOP rear recovery points are rated with a working load limit (WLL) of 10,000 lb each, for a combined rating of 20,000 lb. However, this figure should be treated with caution. It is unlikely that a recovery performed through a tow hitch would withstand loads of this magnitude without chassis or beam bending.

Not sure if you agree with my point of view, of the receiver hitch is the best choice or not........ but I do know that if a person bends/kinks the 2.5" square tubing that the hitch mount is made from, while doing a recovery.......... they've got bigger problems and two bolts that hold on a recovery point wouldn't stand a chance.

 

[Ed1]

It's not clear what exactly @grandsons is recommending on a LC rear recovery. He mentions that use of a bridle would lessen the recovery point stress, but a bridle requires two recovery points. The LC has only one in the rear, plus the hitch receiver. Perhaps his recommendation is to use a bridle connecting to the hitch receiver and the other (off-center) rear recovery point.

Also, @grandsons mentions that connecting directly to the "longitudinal side rails" of the frame would be best. But, I don't see how that is possible.

Perhaps he could clarify.......

 

[EOD Guy]

It's not clear what exactly @grandsons is recommending on a LC rear recovery. He mentions that use of a bridle would lessen the recovery point stress, but a bridle requires two recovery points. The LC has only one in the rear, plus the hitch receiver. Perhaps his recommendation is to use a bridle connecting to the hitch receiver and the other (off-center) rear recovery point.

Also, @grandsons mentions that connecting directly to the "longitudinal side rails" of the frame would be best. But, I don't see how that is possible.

Perhaps he could clarify.......

The receiver hitch is connected to the frame rails and at the rear most points possible and in order for the frame rails to be compromised......... the 2.5" square tubing spanning the rails would have to bend/collapse. That's why I wasn't sure if they were agreeing with my point of view.

 

[turbo8]

I'll throw this out there too. As far as I can tell. the rear frame section of the 250 looks to be identical to the GX550, which has a tow rating of 9000+lbs.
So that 6000lb rating isn't about frame strength, more like drivetrain strength.

 

[grandsons]

Perhaps he could clarify.......

Yes, I could.

As previously mentioned, I plan to install a second recovery point on the opposite side.

Typically, adding additional fixing points on a ladder-frame chassis involves inserting some sort of tube into the frame profile and passing a long bolt through it to clamp both sides of the frame together—nothing too exotic and a fairly common modification.

 

[grandsons]

Also, @grandsons mentions that connecting directly to the "longitudinal side rails" of the frame would be best. But, I don't see how that is possible.

It's possible to approach this solution, by connecting the recovery point (red circle) as close as possible to the side rails.

 

[Ed1]

Is the hitch receiver bolted (or welded?) only to the somewhat curved rear-most frame cross-member, shown in @grandsons photo in the post immediately preceding this post?

 

[grandsons]

Is the hitch receiver bolted (or welded?) only to the somewhat curved rear-most frame cross-member, shown in @grandsons photo in the post immediately preceding this post?

Yes, the receiver is bolted to the rear cross-member. In some markets, depending on regulatory requirements, an additional reinforcement beam may be fitted.

The cross-member itself has a complex geometry that creates a multi-plane load path, which makes it well suited as a towing attachment point. Its suitability as a recovery point, however, is more questionable.

In my view, a single recovery point may be acceptable for a vehicle intended for road use only. For an off-road vehicle, however, the absence of dual recovery points represents a design limitation. Two recovery points provide a more direct and predictable force path, reduce torsional and bending loads, and—most importantly—allow recovery forces to be distributed more evenly across the frame.

Adding a second recovery point is not a simple bolt-on modification; it typically requires machining and/or welding. That said, two recovery points offer the highest level of assurance when recovery operations go wrong. There is always a risk of exceeding the frame’s permissible load, particularly with modern kinetic recovery ropes. Once a recovery point begins its uncontrolled journey toward a bystander, a windshield will not stop it. At that stage, the situation can escalate very quickly.