LC Trim base level stereo

Config file that can be imported into Poweramp Equalizer


Code:
[{
    "name": "Land Cruiser REW",
    "preamp": 0.08862018585205078,
    "parametric": true,
    "bands": [
        {
            "type": 0,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 90,
            "q": 0.800000011920929,
            "gain": 1.2450729608535767,
            "color": 0
        },
        {
            "type": 1,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 10000,
            "q": 0.6000000238418579,
            "gain": 0.0,
            "color": 0
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 43,
            "q": 2.799999952316284,
            "gain": -9.0,
            "color": -15623885
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 64,
            "q": 1.2799999713897705,
            "gain": -7.0,
            "color": -6710989
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 83,
            "q": 1.899999976158142,
            "gain": -4.0,
            "color": -6710989
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 121,
            "q": 3.200000047683716,
            "gain": -7.0,
            "color": -7829368
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 215,
            "q": 5.0,
            "gain": 3.0,
            "color": -6750055
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 346,
            "q": 1.7649999856948853,
            "gain": -6.0,
            "color": -15649895
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 462,
            "q": 1.2289999723434448,
            "gain": 7.0,
            "color": -16711936
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 826,
            "q": 1.600000023841858,
            "gain": -5.800000190734863,
            "color": -7859968
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 1201,
            "q": 1.0010000467300415,
            "gain": 6.300000190734863,
            "color": -16711936
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 1435,
            "q": 5.699999809265137,
            "gain": -3.0,
            "color": -16711936
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 1602,
            "q": 3.700000047683716,
            "gain": -4.0,
            "color": -16711936
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 2067,
            "q": 5.5,
            "gain": 2.5,
            "color": -16711936
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 3216,
            "q": 3.430000066757202,
            "gain": -5.0,
            "color": -16711936
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 6541,
            "q": 3.700000047683716,
            "gain": -3.299999952316284,
            "color": -16711936
        },
        {
            "type": 5,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 8925,
            "q": 1.0,
            "gain": -3.0,
            "color": -16711936
        },
        {
            "type": 3,
            "channels": 0,
            "frequency": 8986,
            "q": 2.5999999046325684,
            "gain": -2.0,
            "color": -16711936
        }
    ]
}
]
You’re uploading eq settings to your LC?
 
All this information was very helpful, thanks for sharing. I read in another forum that the Hertz Dieci Series DCX-1003 4" Two-Way Coaxial Speakers: Amazon.com are a good fit for the dashboard corner speakers. Any thoughts or feedback on them?
 
All this information was very helpful, thanks for sharing. I read in another forum that the Hertz Dieci Series DCX-1003 4" Two-Way Coaxial Speakers: Amazon.com are a good fit for the dashboard corner speakers. Any thoughts or feedback on them?
Yes but you will have to break one of the corner tabs off to get them to fit.
 
All this information was very helpful, thanks for sharing. I read in another forum that the Hertz Dieci Series DCX-1003 4" Two-Way Coaxial Speakers: Amazon.com are a good fit for the dashboard corner speakers. Any thoughts or feedback on them?
I’ve read a few positive reviews on the Hertz. Overall, the JL 350’s are a higher quality speaker. I’m waiting on Toyota to confirm the ohm rating on the head unit. The front speakers are wired in parallel. The dashboard speakers are 8 ohms and door speakers are 4 ohms - a weird combination. The OEM rated ohms is 2.67. With 4 ohm dashboard speakers, the ohms drop to 2.0.
 
The Hertz CX-100 is a better quality speaker than the JL 350. The CX-100 is fantastic with the stock door speakers, but can be a bit in your face with aftermarket door speakers*. I have the JL 350 in right now, it blends a bit better with the aftermarket door speakers, though I do need to turn the volume up more because of the lower sensitivity (which is like 10db below the Hertz.)

I'm going to figure out which I like better and sell the other.

The DCX-1003 should be fine, would need to check the depth. The PEI tweeter may be a bit bright or harsh. It's the lower end of Hertz.

*I don't care what the sensitivity ratings are. The amp isn't high power and the magnets are larger, it's going to take more juice to drive them. The stock speaker sensitivity is probably 99 lol. It shows at low volume w/ aftermarket IMHO.
 
The Hertz CX-100 is a better quality speaker than the JL 350. The CX-100 is fantastic with the stock door speakers, but can be a bit in your face with aftermarket door speakers*. I have the JL 350 in right now, it blends a bit better with the aftermarket door speakers, though I do need to turn the volume up more because of the lower sensitivity (which is like 10db below the Hertz.)

I'm going to figure out which I like better and sell the other.

The DCX-1003 should be fine, would need to check the depth. The PEI tweeter may be a bit bright or harsh. It's the lower end of Hertz.

*I don't care what the sensitivity ratings are. The amp isn't high power and the magnets are larger, it's going to take more juice to drive them. The stock speaker sensitivity is probably 99 lol. It shows at low volume w/ aftermarket IMHO.
I will check out the Hertz specs. I’ve always preferred JL and Focal over Hertz. Remember, since the dashboard speakers and front door speakers are wired in parallel, if you install 4 ohm dashboard speakers, the ohms drop from 2.67 to 2. The 4 ohm speakers will play a bit louder. The 350’s sensitivity is lower. I don’t know how they will sound with the door speakers. The OEM dashboard speakers are louder than the OEM doors.
 
The Hertz CX-100 is a better quality speaker than the JL 350. The CX-100 is fantastic with the stock door speakers, but can be a bit in your face with aftermarket door speakers*. I have the JL 350 in right now, it blends a bit better with the aftermarket door speakers, though I do need to turn the volume up more because of the lower sensitivity (which is like 10db below the Hertz.)

I'm going to figure out which I like better and sell the other.

The DCX-1003 should be fine, would need to check the depth. The PEI tweeter may be a bit bright or harsh. It's the lower end of Hertz.

*I don't care what the sensitivity ratings are. The amp isn't high power and the magnets are larger, it's going to take more juice to drive them. The stock speaker sensitivity is probably 99 lol. It shows at low volume w/ aftermarket IMHO.
On the positive side the 350’s have a 25 watts RMS compared to 40 on the Hertz. Have you installed the 4 inch Hertz? They are a bit deeper as well. Will they fit?
 
On the positive side the 350’s have a 25 watts RMS compared to 40 on the Hertz. Have you installed the 4 inch Hertz? They are a bit deeper as well. Will they fit?
I installed the CX-100 a while ago, they fit, the cover goes back on, and they are great speakers. The "aimable" tweeter is nice. I only decided to give the JL's another try* after I put the Hertz 6.5" in the doors.

*I tried the JL's before I knew about the Metra harness issue w/ the dash, and didn't use a multi-meter.

All of the OEM speakers in the "Base" 10spkr model are 4ohm. To get the Hertz in the door going, the Hertz in the dash would get overwhelming. Since the EQ in the LC stinks and you can't really control individual speakers, it could be a bit much. I had the balance about one click to the rear until I decided to give the JL a try. If I had kept the OEM doors, I likely would still have the Hertz CX-100 in the dash. I am sensitive to certain highs and mids, the Hertz are maybe too good (not bright or harsh.) I'm one of those people who have the EQ either flat (my expensive home system) or the bass up high, the mid lower, and then the highs lower than all, like stairs. Not the "V" as most recommend. I also have hearing damage, so I tend to have to get the volume up to hear certain frequencies (making the sound fuller).
 
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I installed the CX-100 a while ago, they fit, the cover goes back on, and they are great speakers. The "aimable" tweeter is nice. I only decided to give the JL's another try* after I put the Hertz 6.5" in the doors.

*I tried the JL's before I knew about the Metra harness issue w/ the dash, and didn't use a multi-meter.

All of the OEM speakers in the "Base" 10spkr model are 4ohm. To get the Hertz in the door going, the Hertz in the dash would get overwhelming. Since the EQ in the LC stinks and you can't really control individual speakers, it could be a bit much. I had the balance about one click to the rear until I decided to give the JL a try. If I had kept the OEM doors, I likely would still have the Hertz CX-100 in the dash.
Do you have to modify the CX-100 mount to install the speaker? I noticed the depth is 1 3/4 inches. Any problems?

Yes, some people have noticed the wiring isn’t consistent (+ & -). I assume, the dashboard mount is the same on the 10 and 6 speaker systems.
 
Do you have to modify the CX-100 mount to install the speaker? I noticed the depth is 1 3/4 inches. Any problems?

Yes, some people have noticed the wiring isn’t consistent (+ & -). I assume, the dashboard mount is the same on the 10 and 6 speaker systems.
You just have to clip off two of the tabs. 1.75" is about the limit, 1.875" (the Infinity 4") is too deep.
 
You just have to clip off two of the tabs. 1.75" is about the limit, 1.875" (the Infinity 4") is too deep.
Thanks for sharing! That is a very simple modification. Does the higher RMS watt rating impact the volume level with the front door speakers? Do they sound balanced?
 
I installed the CX-100 a while ago, they fit, the cover goes back on, and they are great speakers. The "aimable" tweeter is nice. I only decided to give the JL's another try* after I put the Hertz 6.5" in the doors.

*I tried the JL's before I knew about the Metra harness issue w/ the dash, and didn't use a multi-meter.

All of the OEM speakers in the "Base" 10spkr model are 4ohm. To get the Hertz in the door going, the Hertz in the dash would get overwhelming. Since the EQ in the LC stinks and you can't really control individual speakers, it could be a bit much. I had the balance about one click to the rear until I decided to give the JL a try. If I had kept the OEM doors, I likely would still have the Hertz CX-100 in the dash. I am sensitive to certain highs and mids, the Hertz are maybe too good (not bright or harsh.) I'm one of those people who have the EQ either flat (my expensive home system) or the bass up high, the mid lower, and then the highs lower than all, like stairs. Not the "V" as most recommend. I also have hearing damage, so I tend to have to get the volume up to hear certain frequencies (making the sound fuller).
So it seems you did like the Hertz in the dashboard with the. rest of the speakers staying OEM, right? I am receiving the CX-100s tomorrow and can't. wait to test them. I don't mind trimming them as long as the depth is ok and the plastic trim snaps in place.
 
So it seems you did like the Hertz in the dashboard with the. rest of the speakers staying OEM, right? I am receiving the CX-100s tomorrow and can't. wait to test them. I don't mind trimming them as long as the depth is ok and the plastic trim snaps in place.
Originally I had the Hertz CX-100 and everything else was OEM, they are great speakers. Then I replaced the front doors with the 6.5" Hertz C-165 woofer, I found the CX-100 to be a bit overwhelming because (despite great sensitivity) you have to drive the woofers harder (bigger magnet) to get them going. This was more of an issue at lower volumes, you wouldn't get much bass. I'd turn it up and the dash speakers would be a bit overwhelming for me.
So, I replaced the dash speakers with the JL350. I would call the CX-100 very full, they are nice speakers, but not bright or harsh. I prefer a warmer/neutral sound.

Depending on what you are after, the CX-100 is a better speaker IMHO than the JL, but the JL with it's greatly reduced sensitivity is working out a bit better for me. Now, I do wish the JL was up around 86 or 89, but this is the best solution for me. Speakers are subjective.

I was tempted to throw the JL 6x9 in the front door, but Chancellor says the front door speakers in the base 10spkr aren't full range, so I see no reason to go to the trouble since (aside from the larger size) the specs match the Hertz C-165, but the JL are $280 (looks like they have had a price increase). I will return the Hertz CX-165X (still in the box) and get the JL 6.5 for the rear doors, simply to match the dash tweets, since the rear are full range.

Long winded, but yes, the Hertz fit the dash. Drop them in, the brackets will stick up on one side, but when you turn the bolt then will tighten down. Be mindful of the cap on the driver's side, there isn't a lot of room on the left side of the opening. Also, remember the tweeter rotates 270 (not 360) so figure out the directions you may want to point it before you start cutting the tabs off. I ended up having to swap the drivers & pax speakers later. The grill goes on fine.

Unless anything sours me on the JL, I'll sell my Hertz in a few days.

*The JL 4" is too deep, won't fit.

I think I'm going to stuff my dash openings with polyfill and see if that does anything. I haven't decided if I should seal up the gaps, which wasn't necessary with the 4".
 
Originally I had the Hertz CX-100 and everything else was OEM, they are great speakers. Then I replaced the front doors with the 6.5" Hertz C-165 woofer, I found the CX-100 to be a bit overwhelming because (despite great sensitivity) you have to drive the woofers harder (bigger magnet) to get them going. This was more of an issue at lower volumes, you wouldn't get much bass. I'd turn it up and the dash speakers would be a bit overwhelming for me.
So, I replaced the dash speakers with the JL350. I would call the CX-100 very full, they are nice speakers, but not bright or harsh. I prefer a warmer/neutral sound.

Depending on what you are after, the CX-100 is a better speaker IMHO than the JL, but the JL with it's greatly reduced sensitivity is working out a bit better for me. Now, I do wish the JL was up around 86 or 89, but this is the best solution for me. Speakers are subjective.

I was tempted to throw the JL 6x9 in the front door, but Chancellor says the front door speakers in the base 10spkr aren't full range, so I see no reason to go to the trouble since (aside from the larger size) the specs match the Hertz C-165, but the JL are $280 (looks like they have had a price increase). I will return the Hertz CX-165X (still in the box) and get the JL 6.5 for the rear doors, simply to match the dash tweets, since the rear are full range.

Long winded, but yes, the Hertz fit the dash. Drop them in, the brackets will stick up on one side, but when you turn the bolt then will tighten down. Be mindful of the cap on the driver's side, there isn't a lot of room on the left side of the opening. Also, remember the tweeter rotates 270 (not 360) so figure out the directions you may want to point it before you start cutting the tabs off. I ended up having to swap the drivers & pax speakers later. The grill goes on fine.

Unless anything sours me on the JL, I'll sell my Hertz in a few days.

*The JL 4" is too deep, won't fit.

I think I'm going to stuff my dash openings with polyfill and see if that does anything. I haven't decided if I should seal up the gaps, which wasn't necessary with the 4".
Thanks for sharing! I have the basic 6 speaker system in a 1958. Based on your feedback, I think I may try the JL 350’s in the dashboard. The lower RMS watts (25) and sensitivity may be a good match. I’ve read different opinions on the front door speakers. Some people prefer a two way and others like a mid bass or woofer to add a little bass. I believe, the OEM’s on this system are mid bass in the front doors and 2 way in the rear.

I’m not quite sure what my next step will be without an amp. The head unit is approximately 15 watts. The Beats Encore is not an option at 4-8 ohms. Does the 10 speaker system have an amp in addition to the head unit?
 
Does the 10 speaker system have an amp in addition to the head unit?
Yes. The are two amps used in the LC. One for the Base and one for the JBL, the JBL is substantially larger (and more expensive). I don't know any thing about the 1958 models. If the 1958 only puts on 15w, I would go with something with a lot higher sensitivity and stick with the OEM door speakers. Or I would just go whole hog and replace everything and get an amp. The amps and DSP aren't really all that great, and Toyota's DSP was set up for the OEM speakers.

I don't even know how many watts the Base amp puts out, never could find a number. I probably would have been just fine doing the dash and leaving it at that, but I was bored and wanted a project.
 
Originally I had the Hertz CX-100 and everything else was OEM, they are great speakers. Then I replaced the front doors with the 6.5" Hertz C-165 woofer, I found the CX-100 to be a bit overwhelming because (despite great sensitivity) you have to drive the woofers harder (bigger magnet) to get them going. This was more of an issue at lower volumes, you wouldn't get much bass. I'd turn it up and the dash speakers would be a bit overwhelming for me.
So, I replaced the dash speakers with the JL350. I would call the CX-100 very full, they are nice speakers, but not bright or harsh. I prefer a warmer/neutral sound.

Depending on what you are after, the CX-100 is a better speaker IMHO than the JL, but the JL with it's greatly reduced sensitivity is working out a bit better for me. Now, I do wish the JL was up around 86 or 89, but this is the best solution for me. Speakers are subjective.

I was tempted to throw the JL 6x9 in the front door, but Chancellor says the front door speakers in the base 10spkr aren't full range, so I see no reason to go to the trouble since (aside from the larger size) the specs match the Hertz C-165, but the JL are $280 (looks like they have had a price increase). I will return the Hertz CX-165X (still in the box) and get the JL 6.5 for the rear doors, simply to match the dash tweets, since the rear are full range.

Long winded, but yes, the Hertz fit the dash. Drop them in, the brackets will stick up on one side, but when you turn the bolt then will tighten down. Be mindful of the cap on the driver's side, there isn't a lot of room on the left side of the opening. Also, remember the tweeter rotates 270 (not 360) so figure out the directions you may want to point it before you start cutting the tabs off. I ended up having to swap the drivers & pax speakers later. The grill goes on fine.

Unless anything sours me on the JL, I'll sell my Hertz in a few days.

*The JL 4" is too deep, won't fit.

I think I'm going to stuff my dash openings with polyfill and see if that does anything. I haven't decided if I should seal up the gaps, which wasn't necessary with the 4".
Thanks for all this info, really valuable, specially the hint about the tweeter rotation, I would have not think of that in advance. I am assuming pointing the tweeter to the windshield may be a good idea, but I will test various angles before committing to a final position. Thanks!!!
 
Thanks for all this info, really valuable, specially the hint about the tweeter rotation, I would have not think of that in advance. I am assuming pointing the tweeter to the windshield may be a good idea, but I will test various angles before committing to a final position. Thanks!!!
It's listener subjective. Typically they are aimed at the overhead light (never could figure out if it was the map light or the center light 🤣), there were other recommendations to point them at the front window. I had mine pointing toward the other seat, maybe a little forward, but I am sensitive to higher sounds.

Yeah, I figured it out after the fact, luckily I could just swamp them. The cap is rather large, so take that into account on the driver's side, before you start clipping tabs.
 
Thanks for sharing! I have the basic 6 speaker system in a 1958. Based on your feedback, I think I may try the JL 350’s in the dashboard. The lower RMS watts (25) and sensitivity may be a good match. I’ve read different opinions on the front door speakers. Some people prefer a two way and others like a mid bass or woofer to add a little bass. I believe, the OEM’s on this system are mid bass in the front doors and 2 way in the rear.

I’m not quite sure what my next step will be without an amp. The head unit is approximately 15 watts. The Beats Encore is not an option at 4-8 ohms. Does the 10 speaker system have an amp in addition to the head unit?
Are you concerned about having to use some kind of extension bracket to make the JL 350s fit? That seems like a big detractor that would affect the sound quality.

I have a 1958 too and am just looking for some simple upgrades without diving too deep.
 
Are you concerned about having to use some kind of extension bracket to make the JL 350s fit? That seems like a big detractor that would affect the sound quality.

I have a 1958 too and am just looking for some simple upgrades without diving too deep.
Adding a short piece of metal on one bracket won’t be problem. The speaker should still be extremely rigid. Keep in mind. The metal piece will be less than 1.5 inches. You could consider 4 inch speakers as previously mentioned. I prefer the 350’s because of the 25 watt RMS. The 4 inch Hertz were 40 watts. They are also a tight fit. I plan on adding a little Thinsulate under the speaker to absorb vibration and deaden the area. I assume, a small piece will fit. If not, no big deal… Do not purchase the Beats amp. Like you, I am only considering replacing the dashboard speakers. They tend to dominate the front area.
 
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