Speaker Upgrade with Beatsonic

Have you looked into this bracket? Amazon.com I will by trying to install it today see if it fits.

I decided to go with the Infinity Kappa 693C for the rear paired with the 303C for the dash. The 303C connects directly with the 6x9s, bypassing the harness in the dash since it’s part of a 3-way component setup. For the rear, I opted for the Kappa 603CF. I’m removing the center speaker entirely as I don’t plan to use it.

To access the factory amps and get a clean audio signal for the new amp, I had to remove the seat. The factory amp needs to stay in place to retain fade and balance functionality. Due to limited space under the seats, my amplifier options are restricted. Behind the rear seat, there's only a small amount of space, but I found enough room under the middle rear seat for a JL Audio FIX 86.

In the rear trunk, I’ll be replacing the factory subwoofer with a JL Audio 8-inch subwoofer. Once everything is complete, I’ll provide a more detailed write-up. For now, here are some pictures of the work in progress!

View attachment 19844View attachment 19845View attachment 19846View attachment 19847View attachment 19848
I love that they couldn't help but through the amazon logo all over that deadening foil.

I know it's never intended to be seen, but it's the last thing anybody would ever expect to find should they need to pop the door cards off.
 
A couple of points here:

1) The Hertz speaker actually fits your center slot? The tabs on either side seem to come well short of the mounting brackets for the speaker. Looks like you removed the metal clips from either side, but my first run at it was they don’t fit.

2) It should also be noted that the Metra wiring harness does not work with the Hertz speaker. The positive port fits fit, but the negative tab on the Hertz speaker is larger than standard. You’ll have to strip the wire and somehow attach it to the speaker if you want to use that harness.

I bought this stuff thinking it would be an easy swap for my center speaker (already done the outsides). It wasn’t. Shipping it all back to Crutchfield. It’s easy enough to get into the center location. I’ll just wait on a drop in option that fits better.
 
OK. I added the Beatsonic to the system on my FE Cruiser. Got it at 11:00 today, grabbed tools to install it at lunch Started at 1:00 and finished at 2:00. I think you can certainly do this faster, but I was being cautious and trying not to damage anything.

I'll say this, the video on Beatsonic's website is very useful on the install. They really know where to push and pull on the panels to get them to disengage properly. The amp doesn't seem to want to go into the spot they show, but it does. There's also wire right in front of the location that can be easily moved to the right (even has a clip-in spot for it).

A few recommendations from the install:

1) You don't need to go to more than 1:00 on the gain. I went to 2:00, and it's very loud. I can't listen to the system above 30 now. Speakers can handle it fine (Focals), but that's concert loud above that.

2) I tried to test run it before I re-installed everything. I believe I started the car, but it lit up the Christmas tree of issues on the dashboard. I got everything re-installed, and the parking brake still was saying "not functional." Thankfully, that's easy to get to (only two parts need removing). I unplugged and re-plugged them, let the car sit, and the faults are now gone.

3) Got back to work and got this email, "Good Afternoon- This is Marissa contacting you from Toyota of Southern Maryland, in regards to your 2024 Land Cruiser. We have received notice that there may be a light on your vehicle's dashboard concerning a malfunction in the parking brake system. If this issue is occuring in your vehicle, please bring your vehicle in for service, or give us a call at your earliest convenience so we can diagnose and address the issue. Thank You, and have a great rest of your day!"

Didn't realize Toyota was tracking faults. I guess that's a good thing?

Anyway, the system now sounds more like a real stereo. I won't say it's perfect as far as being able to equalize the system, as those functions are pretty limited. If you aren't replacing your stock speakers and adding deadening, I can only imagine what this does.

Let's hope that's the last time I have to take the dash apart, though.
 
OK. I added the Beatsonic to the system on my FE Cruiser. Got it at 11:00 today, grabbed tools to install it at lunch Started at 1:00 and finished at 2:00. I think you can certainly do this faster, but I was being cautious and trying not to damage anything.

I'll say this, the video on Beatsonic's website is very useful on the install. They really know where to push and pull on the panels to get them to disengage properly. The amp doesn't seem to want to go into the spot they show, but it does. There's also wire right in front of the location that can be easily moved to the right (even has a clip-in spot for it).

A few recommendations from the install:

1) You don't need to go to more than 1:00 on the gain. I went to 2:00, and it's very loud. I can't listen to the system above 30 now. Speakers can handle it fine (Focals), but that's concert loud above that.

2) I tried to test run it before I re-installed everything. I believe I started the car, but it lit up the Christmas tree of issues on the dashboard. I got everything re-installed, and the parking brake still was saying "not functional." Thankfully, that's easy to get to (only two parts need removing). I unplugged and re-plugged them, let the car sit, and the faults are now gone.

3) Got back to work and got this email, "Good Afternoon- This is Marissa contacting you from Toyota of Southern Maryland, in regards to your 2024 Land Cruiser. We have received notice that there may be a light on your vehicle's dashboard concerning a malfunction in the parking brake system. If this issue is occuring in your vehicle, please bring your vehicle in for service, or give us a call at your earliest convenience so we can diagnose and address the issue. Thank You, and have a great rest of your day!"

Didn't realize Toyota was tracking faults. I guess that's a good thing?

Anyway, the system now sounds more like a real stereo. I won't say it's perfect as far as being able to equalize the system, as those functions are pretty limited. If you aren't replacing your stock speakers and adding deadening, I can only imagine what this does.

Let's hope that's the last time I have to take the dash apart, though.
Pretty amazing you got all the dash removal and installation done within an hour. wow!
 
Pretty amazing you got all the dash removal and installation done within an hour. wow!
Again, watched the video a few times prior to doing it. Really wasn't a chore to get it off if you have a removal tool and a 10mm socket ready. Now the burning question is did I do it all right (so far, so good).
 
Anyone using Spotify via wireless Apple CarPlay with a Beat Sonic?

I did Chancellor’s speaker upgrade on all 8 components (LC trim, non-JBL) and added sound deadening behind all speakers. Native SiriusXM sounds pretty fantastic, but Spotify sounds like hot garbage.

I know that is a known issue with Spotify via CarPlay, but curious if Beat Sonic would help. I really don’t want to subscribe to both SXM and Spotify!
 
A couple of points here:

1) The Hertz speaker actually fits your center slot? The tabs on either side seem to come well short of the mounting brackets for the speaker. Looks like you removed the metal clips from either side, but my first run at it was they don’t fit.

2) It should also be noted that the Metra wiring harness does not work with the Hertz speaker. The positive port fits fit, but the negative tab on the Hertz speaker is larger than standard. You’ll have to strip the wire and somehow attach it to the speaker if you want to use that harness.

I bought this stuff thinking it would be an easy swap for my center speaker (already done the outsides). It wasn’t. Shipping it all back to Crutchfield. It’s easy enough to get into the center location. I’ll just wait on a drop in option that fits better.

You can pop the Metra cables right out and replace them, just order two pairs, if you don't feel like stripping and crimping a new connector on. I'm more concerned that the dash speakers may be reversed, supposedly an issue in the RAV4 and others, I posted the link in chancellors thread. iirc, he mentions that he reversed the connectors and he believed the sound blended with the rest of the speakers better.

@Evergreen XM/Sirius sounds light years better in my LC than in my 2019 F150 w/ the B&O. Spotify also sounds like complete trash in my LC, I never use it, yes I have the quality set on high, but wanted to try it out, went right back to Apple Music. I have only replaced the two L&R dash speakers.
 
Last edited:
You can pop the Metra cables right out and replace them, just order two pairs, if you don't feel like stripping and crimping a new connector on. I'm more concerned that the dash speakers may be reversed, supposedly an issue in the RAV4 and others, I posted the link in chancellors thread. iirc, he mentions that he reversed the connectors and he believed the sound blended with the rest of the speakers better.

@Evergreen XM/Sirius sounds light years better in my LC than in my 2019 F150 w/ the B&O. Spotify also sounds like complete trash in my LC, I never use it, yes I have the quality set on high, but wanted to try it out, went right back to Apple Music. I have only replaced the two L&R dash speakers.
Interesting, Apple Music didn’t sound great on my setup either, but I was running it through CarPlay and not the Native LC OS. I hate the idea of paying for in-car data and encouraging Toyota/other makers to continue this post-purchase subscription behavior, ugh, but suspect the audio quality would be better that way.

I can’t imagine Spotify sounding worse than it already does in the LC lol.

Thanks for the feedback
 
Have you folks tried wired vs wireless carplay to see if theres a difference in audio quality?
 
Interesting, Apple Music didn’t sound great on my setup either, but I was running it through CarPlay and not the Native LC OS. I hate the idea of paying for in-car data and encouraging Toyota/other makers to continue this post-purchase subscription behavior, ugh, but suspect the audio quality would be better that way.

I can’t imagine Spotify sounding worse than it already does in the LC lol.

Thanks for the feedback
I’ve never used the lC OS for AppleMusic.

“Have you folks tried wired vs wireless carplay to see if theres a difference in audio quality?”

I can ‘t tell the difference in my LC. I can in my F150 (which uses BT) and the difference is noticeable.

I do feel the XM/Sirius sounds better when using their phone app though, but that kind of defeats the purpose of sat radio lol.
 
You can pop the Metra cables right out and replace them, just order two pairs, if you don't feel like stripping and crimping a new connector on. I'm more concerned that the dash speakers may be reversed, supposedly an issue in the RAV4 and others, I posted the link in chancellors thread. iirc, he mentions that he reversed the connectors and he believed the sound blended with the rest of the speakers better.
Can you share the link on that? My right dash speaker was slightly distorted. When isolated the speaker, it was obvious that the dash speaker and the tweeter were reversed. Didn't have time to swap it, but that's happening today. Hopefully, that fixes the issue.

This happened prior to Beatsonic install. Speakers were simply replaced in existing location with existing wires. I think it came from the factor reversed. Not sure how that's possible.
 
I don't know if applies to the 24+ LC, I don't know how to test for polarity. I suppose I'll go buy a multimeter are read up on how to do it from the head/amp.

LC Trim base level stereo Pg7 or 8. This is a good thread for anyone thinking about upgrading the base stereo, chancellor has done a tremendous amount of legwork and provided a ton of information.

*Also, because in the reddit thread the bozos are talking about cutting and resoldering the connectors on the Metra (for the RAV4), the whole wire will pull out of the vehicle side connector and you can swap them. or in the case of a speaker with two large spades, you can take apart another connector if you don't want to screw with soldering or buying connectors.
 
Last edited:
I don't know if applies to the 24+ LC, I don't know how to test for polarity. I suppose I'll go buy a multimeter are read up on how to do it from the head/amp.

LC Trim base level stereo Pg7 or 8. This is a good thread for anyone thinking about upgrading the base stereo, chancellor has done a tremendous amount of legwork and provided a ton of information.

*Also, because in the reddit thread the bozos are talking about cutting and resoldering the connectors on the Metra (for the RAV4), the whole wire will pull out of the vehicle side connector and you can swap them. or in the case of a speaker with two large spades, you can take apart another connector if you don't want to screw with soldering or buying connectors.

I just posted this elsewhere, but were there comments about some of the wires being Tin, not Copper? They found that to be the problem in my recent speaker woes.
 
I just posted this elsewhere, but were there comments about some of the wires being Tin, not Copper? They found that to be the problem in my recent speaker woes.
I have no idea, I hadn't heard that. Are you speaking of the Metra?
 
I have no idea, I hadn't heard that. Are you speaking of the Metra?
No, the Toyota lines to the tweeters, specifically. Got new ones installed, and the installer wanted to solder into the existing lines, pre-connection. He quickly discovered it was Tin and not Copper. I actually had some Metra connectors from a failed attempt at replacing the center console. We used those instead.
 
One of the rav4 threads recommended reverse polarity if only changing dash speakers and nothing else. If changing doors too, there’s no need. Just make sure all are using the same polarity (e.g. positive - positive, negative - negative)
 
No, the Toyota lines to the tweeters, specifically. Got new ones installed, and the installer wanted to solder into the existing lines, pre-connection. He quickly discovered it was Tin and not Copper. I actually had some Metra connectors from a failed attempt at replacing the center console. We used those instead.
The speaker wire coming from the headunit to the tweeters was tin?

Are you sure it wasn’t stranded copper that was tinned at the ends for soldering? This doesn’t make a lot of sense.
 
One of the rav4 threads recommended reverse polarity if only changing dash speakers and nothing else. If changing doors too, there’s no need. Just make sure all are using the same polarity (e.g. positive - positive, negative - negative)
Wow, this made a noticeable difference! I just switched/reversed the wires to my speakers. I have only done my dash L&R, Alpine 4", just swapped the wires. Vocals are much smoother, less distorted. I originally had my treb set to the middle or -1 and now I've raised it up, along with my mids and bass, much better sound IMHO.

I will say that it does sound more neutral or flat, some may not like that.
 
Last edited:
Wow, this made a noticeable difference! I just switched/reversed the wires to my speakers. I have only done my dash L&R, Alpine 4", just swapped the wires. Vocals are much smoother, less distorted. I originally had my treb set to the middle or -1 and now I've raised it up, along with my mids and bass, much better sound IMHO.

I will say that it does sound more neutral or flat, some may not like that.
Nice, I’m planning on swapping the doors too so went with standard polarity but this makes me want to experiment with swapping the dash speakers. I think Chancellor also swapped polarity and preferred it that way.

I ended up soldering the negative ends because the Hertz speakers have two wide terminals so it would be a bit more annoying to do it. If I do I’d probably add a crimp connector.
 
Nice, I’m planning on swapping the doors too so went with standard polarity but this makes me want to experiment with swapping the dash speakers. I think Chancellor also swapped polarity and preferred it that way.

I ended up soldering the negative ends because the Hertz speakers have two wide terminals so it would be a bit more annoying to do it. If I do I’d probably add a crimp connector.
He did, which gave me the idea to look it up, then I found the reddit post.

I need to buy a multimeter. I don’t recall if this is a Toyota Metra issue or because of the windshield. Nor why doing the doors makes everything work fine w/o reversing.

I stuck a tab on the adapter to remind me I reversed them lol.
 
Back
Top