LC Trim base level stereo

[Skidaddl]

Did you install the 350’s on the dashboard of your 1958? If so, did you have to modify anything? Crutchfield doesn’t list the 350’s as an option for the standard system.

I think you meant to direct to OP. I've not done anything yet (and don't have a 1958).

 

[AlexGates]

Got my 6.5" Hertz woofers in the front doors today. I think Chancellor mentioned you may get "more" with 6x9's and I would agree. Replacing one and leaving the other stock, I thought I had made a bad choice, after replacing both, I feel that there is a noticeable improvement in quality and actual bass, it just isn't boomy and messy like stock, which threw me off a first. I really half a$$ed the sound dampening, it was hot outside, and just hit whatever I could easily hit. Nothing rattles, so that is an improvement alone.

The rear pax speakers are noticeably horrible now, so they are getting changed.

Somethings:
-jtc mentioned the NVX silicone baffle. GET IT! We had a storm last night, there was water in my stock door speakers.
-Definitely have a crowbar/forked end type trim tool, this helps getting the attachy plug things out of the door. Pry from the head, not the base. They have thin rubber gaskets. I ruined a few before I got wise.
-Tesa fleece cloth tape, do the wires and the Metra adapter so they won't rattle.
-The Metra adapter was correct for my vehicle, didn't need to swap wires, tested with a MM.
-The TT speaker adapter comes with no instructions, so if you are hot, and mildly stupid like me, you will look at it like "what?" You break the taps off to get the speaker to fit lol.
-Definitely slap some dampening, even if you do a half a$$ job, it is worth it.

 

[Rubicon15]

Got my 6.5" Hertz woofers in the front doors today. I think Chancellor mentioned you may get "more" with 6x9's and I would agree. Replacing one and leaving the other stock, I thought I had made a bad choice, after replacing both, I feel that there is a noticeable improvement in quality and actual bass, it just isn't boomy and messy like stock, which threw me off a first. I really half a$$ed the sound dampening, it was hot outside, and just hit whatever I could easily hit. Nothing rattles, so that is an improvement alone.

The rear pax speakers are noticeably horrible now, so they are getting changed.

Somethings:
-jtc mentioned the NVX silicone baffle. GET IT! We had a storm last night, there was water in my stock door speakers.
-Definitely have a crowbar/forked end type trim tool, this helps getting the attachy plug things out of the door. Pry from the head, not the base. They have thin rubber gaskets. I ruined a few before I got wise.
-Tesa fleece cloth tape, do the wires and the Metra adapter so they won't rattle.
-The Metra adapter was correct for my vehicle, didn't need to swap wires, tested with a MM.
-The TT speaker adapter comes with no instructions, so if you are hot, and mildly stupid like me, you will look at it like "what?" You break the taps off to get the speaker to fit lol.
-Definitely slap some dampening, even if you do a half a$$ job, it is worth it.

Great advice! Thank you so much! Did you replace the dashboard speakers?

 

[Rubicon15]

Great advice! Thank you so much! Did you replace the dashboard speakers?

I should have asked. How many ohms are the OEM 1958 front door and dashboard speakers?

 

[AlexGates]

Great advice! Thank you so much! Did you replace the dashboard speakers?

Yes, with Hertz CX100.

I suspect 4ohms. I have the base model, not 1958. Buried in this thread is what will fit and what will not.

 

[PurelyAbrasive]

Got my 6.5" Hertz woofers in the front doors today. I think Chancellor mentioned you may get "more" with 6x9's and I would agree. Replacing one and leaving the other stock, I thought I had made a bad choice, after replacing both, I feel that there is a noticeable improvement in quality and actual bass, it just isn't boomy and messy like stock, which threw me off a first. I really half a$$ed the sound dampening, it was hot outside, and just hit whatever I could easily hit. Nothing rattles, so that is an improvement alone.

The rear pax speakers are noticeably horrible now, so they are getting changed.

Somethings:
-jtc mentioned the NVX silicone baffle. GET IT! We had a storm last night, there was water in my stock door speakers.
-Definitely have a crowbar/forked end type trim tool, this helps getting the attachy plug things out of the door. Pry from the head, not the base. They have thin rubber gaskets. I ruined a few before I got wise.
-Tesa fleece cloth tape, do the wires and the Metra adapter so they won't rattle.
-The Metra adapter was correct for my vehicle, didn't need to swap wires, tested with a MM.
-The TT speaker adapter comes with no instructions, so if you are hot, and mildly stupid like me, you will look at it like "what?" You break the taps off to get the speaker to fit lol.
-Definitely slap some dampening, even if you do a half a$$ job, it is worth it.

Which Hertz speaker did you use for the front door. I am looking at the DCx 165.3’s.

 

[AlexGates]

Which Hertz speaker did you use for the front door. I am looking at the DCx 165.3’s.

C165. The front door isn’t full range, no reason the shell out more money for a 2/3-way. Some people installed full range and someone in another thread said they saw a document that says the door is full range, but Chancellor hooked up a bookshelf and tested it, none of his advice has been wrong. I’d have gone with the Infinities, except they were too bright for me.

I’m putting the CX165 in the pax doors. I typically don’t have pax, but I can notice how terrible the factory speakers are. Plus, I have too much time on my hands lol.

I avoided the DCX because they may be bright, I am sensitive to bright tweeters/sounds, even though I have hearing damage, toss in all the glass and it’s annoying. I still haven’t figured out a good solution even though I got the Hertz with the aim-able tweeter for my dash.

 

[ryanjl]

Here's the kicker, though: My LC frequently kicks me off CarPlay. No discernible reason why, but it still allows me to play over bluetooth I can be driving along, go to settings (happens when I can't push a non-existent CarPlay button), and hit the CarPlay enabler. When that happens, the sound gets MUCH better. Plugged in does not seem to make a difference, one way or another.

Why the LC or Toyota product does this is beyond me. Why can't it just keep the CarPlay setting without switching it off? Why does it sound better? Have no idea.

I don't think issues like this are isolated to Toyota, though. My old Discovery would kick me off, too. That one required you to plug in to the system to re-connect. No wire handy, tough luck.

As others have said, data transfer via Bluetooth isn't nearly as good as via wifi. Further, the Bluetooth codec also compresses sound files, which makes the sound quality worse than being connected direct or through wifi. I'd actually rather listen to an old, compressed mp3 through wifi or direct connection than a FLAC/lossless file through Bluetooth. It's that bad.

I'm not much of a conspiracy theorist, but one thing I kind of wonder is if vehicle manufacturers don't arbitrarily and randomly kick users off of Carplay and revert them to their in-house software on occasion so that they can be the ones that collect the user data and sell it versus Apple collecting the user data. Collection of user data is supposedly the real reason GM doesn't do Carplay anymore.

 

[AlexGates]

CP kicks me off for no reason even when my phone is plugged in, it can be very frustrating. I've had it kick my phone off, then reconnect, then kick me off, and keep doing it. This usually happens when I've changed a speaker and/or I'm messing with my EQ levels. I don't think it is Apple's fault, because my'25 hasn't kicked me off CP, plugged in or wifi.