JBL Upgrade w/o Amp

[Thx_1158]

Great! I think the JL’s are better than Hertz. Any concerns about the dbs to drive the speakers?

As I said, I'm quite happy with them. I think they work great. If you want ear splitting volumes, then you need to add amps anyway. I'm really curious as to how the 6.5's will sound in the doors when I get around to installing them.

 

[Thx_1158]

Great! I think the JL’s are better than Hertz. Any concerns about the dbs to drive the speakers?

I have none. They are plenty loud for me.

 

[Rubicon15]

As I said, I'm quite happy with them. I think they work great. If you want ear splitting volumes, then you need to add amps anyway. I'm really curious as to how the 6.5's will sound in the doors when I get around to installing them.

I’m thinking about all JL Audio. Crutchfield recommends two different 6.5 inch speakers. One for the front and a different model for the rear. The rears don’t have a tweeter but cost $300 each. The front door speakers are $250 for a pair. The more expensive model may be used in the front or rear. Obviously, at a much higher cost. I’m not into blaring music… I’m more of an audiophile.

 

[Rubicon15]

Here is what my JBL system looked like when I replaced the speakers with JL's I expect the non JBL's are similar. Second picture is with a quickly fabricated bracket. The white material is Polyfill loosely placed in the opening.

I should have asked. Can you describe the easiest way to remove the dashboard grills?

 

[Thx_1158]

I should have asked. Can you describe the easiest way to remove the dashboard grills?

I used a trim removal tool. Pry carefully at the front of the grill, pop both retaining clips, slide forward. the rear isn't held by clips just two tabs you slide into the plastic.

 

[fftfk]

I was not fully pleased with the JBL system in my LC LC. I've had worse, but I've had much better, such as in my 17 Golf R. Considering this LC is my first venture into what I consider luxury territory, I was expecting much more. Aside from the sound quality being muddy and lackluster, I was really surprised how much the doors rattled even at neutral bass. So, I decided to upgrade the speakers and add sound-deadening. I also was not really interested in adding amps and thankfully now I won't need to do so. Here is what I used:

• JL Audio C2-350x 3.5" in the dash corners
• Kenwood Excelon KFC-X3C 3.5" in the dash center (there wasn't enough depth for another C2 and I had the Kenwood on hand from a previous Jeep project)
• Front doors
  • JL Audio C2-690tx 6"x9"
  • Metra 82-8246 mounting brackets (they work by drilling two new holes to match the OEM locations)
  • Stinger Roadkill RKFR69 FAST Rings (baffles)
  • I had tried a mid/woofer at first, but then realized a full signal is going to the door. Aside from how much sound was lost with that first attempt, one of the forum members had posted a document from Toyota Japan that showed a full signal to the doors. The JL Audio speakers I ultimately used, really help improve the overall sound quality when combined with the new dash speakers.
• Back doors
  • JL Audio C2-650x 6.5"
  • Metra 82-8148 mounting brackets
  • Stinger Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings (baffles)
• Metra 72-8109 speaker wiring adapters for all locations
• Dynamat Xtreme
• Dynamat Dynaliner 1/4"

I'm not an audio expert, but I selected the JL Audio speakers based on:

• Previous experience
• Warm sound and great sound quality
• High sensitivity for working off the stock amp

I took my time over a few weekends and I'm really impressed with the results. It was my first foray in using sound deadening to this extent. I would estimate around up to 25% coverage with the Xtreme and around 30-40 with the Dynaliner. I did not want to remove the vapor liner (in the back doors) or go crazy inside the doors. Here are my key subjective results:

• Significantly clearer sound played with a reduced need for volume. Prior to the upgrade, I listened in the range of 35 to 55. Now I can listen easily from 25 to 45.
• The bass is impressive. I'm still not sure how much the subwoofer in the hatch is doing, but the new speakers in the front doors throw appreciable and solid bass.
• Much quieter while cruising, such that I mainly hear wind noise by the A-pillars.
• I use the surround function enabled now. It sounded harsh/irritating with the OEM speakers, but really fills the space with the improved speakers.

Some other random notes:

• I listen to a wide range of music, including alternative, indie, rock, electronic, industrial, etc. and it all sounds great.
• I bought Kicker 3.5" speakers for the hatch, but there is remarkably little depth for aftermarket speakers and reinstalled the OEM ones. I added sound deadening, while I was in there.
• Taking off door panels in new vehicles always freaks me out the first time. The front and rear doors were fine. The hatch, however, made me feel as though I was going to break something in some areas.
• I didn't bother doing anything with the subwoofer in the hatch. I'm not sure it's doing much, so it wasn't worth upgrading at the moment.
• I did not touch the small tweeters in the pillar or upper back door.
• The OEM speakers look weird (except for the back door ones that seem fairly normal). The front door and dash speakers have a lot of plastic framing in front of the cones. I suppose it keeps them rigid, but seems as though they would block the emission of sound.

All items were purchased from www.crutchfield.com

Any photos of the dynamite and dynaliner install? Did you just do the doors or did you take out all of the interior trim and do the floor, wheel wells, etc.

 

[ekkoville]

Did you install the JL 350’s 3.5 inch on the dashboard of your stock 1958? If so, did you have to modify anything? The tweeter projects 1/2 inch.

I installed the 350’s on the left and right dash location only. No issue with height of the tweeter at all. One of the two screws can be a bit tricky to angle into the stock bracket screw hole but I was able to get it done.

The db’s are not of concern in the 1958 either, plays as loud as I want. The 4-ohm rating and the sensitivity are a good match in my experience. They are a bit forward in the upper treble region when compared to a pair of Focal’s that I tried but were too deep to fit.

Regarding the center speaker, the 1958 does not have one so I don’t have to deal with the shallowness of that location.

 

[Rubicon15]

I installed the 350’s on the left and right dash location only. No issue with height of the tweeter at all. One of the two screws can be a bit tricky to angle into the stock bracket screw hole but I was able to get it done.

The db’s are not of concern in the 1958 either, plays as loud as I want. The 4-ohm rating and the sensitivity are a good match in my experience. They are a bit forward in the upper treble region when compared to a pair of Focal’s that I tried but were too deep to fit.

Regarding the center speaker, the 1958 does not have one so I don’t have to deal with the shallowness of that location.

It seems like the JL 350’s are the best option for the dashboard. Do you wish you would have went with a different speaker after spending several hours listening to your system. Right now, I’m planning on using C6 650’s or C2 650’s in the front door. I’m starting with the four main speakers. I don’t know if the C6’s will significantly outperform the C2 with the integrated tweezer. Any thoughts?

 

[Thx_1158]

It seems like the JL 350’s are the best option for the dashboard. Do you wish you would have went with a different speaker after spending several hours listening to your system. Right now, I’m planning on using C6 650’s or C2 650’s in the front door. I’m starting with the four main speakers. I don’t know if the C6’s will significantly outperform the C2 with the integrated tweezer. Any thoughts?

You know after the 350 upgrade a few days ago, then upgrading the front door speakers yesterday to the 650X, I would recommend you just do the dash, wait a week or so and see if that' works for you. While the music has considerably more detail, depth and a greater sound stage, it made the lack of base much more noticeable. I did dynomat the doors while I was in there. Now I need to chase down some solution for the bass issue. I didn't want to get into sound processors and additional amps. Everyone's ears are different, but I probably would have just stopped at the dash.

 

[Rubicon15]

You know after the 350 upgrade a few days ago, then upgrading the front door speakers yesterday to the 650X, I would recommend you just do the dash, wait a week or so and see if that' works for you. While the music has considerably more detail, depth and a greater sound stage, it made the lack of base much more noticeable. I did dynomat the doors while I was in there. Now I need to chase down some solution for the bass issue. I didn't want to get into sound processors and additional amps. Everyone's ears are different, but I probably would have just stopped at the dash.

Do you think the C6 650’s - single woofer is a better option than the C2 650 with the added tweeter? The C6 should provide more bass. I’m also considering the Focal z PC 165 FE for the front doors. Focal also makes a dashboard speaker. I sincerely appreciate your feedback. Thoughts?

 

[Thx_1158]

Do you think the C6 650’s - single woofer is a better option than the C2 650 with the added tweeter? The C6 should provide more bass. I’m also considering the Focal z PC 165 FE for the front doors. Focal also makes a dashboard speaker. I sincerely appreciate your feedback. Thoughts?

I really can’t say. The JL’s sound real good, but I fear I’m now doing exactly what I didn’t want to do…go down the audio rabbit hole. Some Hi-Rez music sources sound fine, just missing that depth and punch you get with a high quality sub.

 

[Rubicon15]

I really can’t say. The JL’s sound real good, but I fear I’m now doing exactly what I didn’t want to do…go down the audio rabbit hole. Some Hi-Rez music sources sound fine, just missing that depth and punch you get with a high quality sub.

Same here… trying to avoid mistakes and going down a forever ending audio path. Right now, with the stock 1958 speakers, specifically the dashboard speakers, seem to dominate in the front cab area. If you are missing bass, maybe the JL C6 650 single woofer, no tweeter, is a better option. The woofers definitely lack the higher frequencies. The only other option is Focal. Based on your experience, what do think?

 

[Jimn]

I was not fully pleased with the JBL system in my LC LC. I've had worse, but I've had much better, such as in my 17 Golf R. Considering this LC is my first venture into what I consider luxury territory, I was expecting much more. Aside from the sound quality being muddy and lackluster, I was really surprised how much the doors rattled even at neutral bass. So, I decided to upgrade the speakers and add sound-deadening. I also was not really interested in adding amps and thankfully now I won't need to do so. Here is what I used:

• JL Audio C2-350x 3.5" in the dash corners
• Kenwood Excelon KFC-X3C 3.5" in the dash center (there wasn't enough depth for another C2 and I had the Kenwood on hand from a previous Jeep project)
• Front doors
  • JL Audio C2-690tx 6"x9"
  • Metra 82-8246 mounting brackets (they work by drilling two new holes to match the OEM locations)
  • Stinger Roadkill RKFR69 FAST Rings (baffles)
  • I had tried a mid/woofer at first, but then realized a full signal is going to the door. Aside from how much sound was lost with that first attempt, one of the forum members had posted a document from Toyota Japan that showed a full signal to the doors. The JL Audio speakers I ultimately used, really help improve the overall sound quality when combined with the new dash speakers.
• Back doors
  • JL Audio C2-650x 6.5"
  • Metra 82-8148 mounting brackets
  • Stinger Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings (baffles)
• Metra 72-8109 speaker wiring adapters for all locations
• Dynamat Xtreme
• Dynamat Dynaliner 1/4"

I'm not an audio expert, but I selected the JL Audio speakers based on:

• Previous experience
• Warm sound and great sound quality
• High sensitivity for working off the stock amp

I took my time over a few weekends and I'm really impressed with the results. It was my first foray in using sound deadening to this extent. I would estimate around up to 25% coverage with the Xtreme and around 30-40 with the Dynaliner. I did not want to remove the vapor liner (in the back doors) or go crazy inside the doors. Here are my key subjective results:

• Significantly clearer sound played with a reduced need for volume. Prior to the upgrade, I listened in the range of 35 to 55. Now I can listen easily from 25 to 45.
• The bass is impressive. I'm still not sure how much the subwoofer in the hatch is doing, but the new speakers in the front doors throw appreciable and solid bass.
• Much quieter while cruising, such that I mainly hear wind noise by the A-pillars.
• I use the surround function enabled now. It sounded harsh/irritating with the OEM speakers, but really fills the space with the improved speakers.

Some other random notes:

• I listen to a wide range of music, including alternative, indie, rock, electronic, industrial, etc. and it all sounds great.
• I bought Kicker 3.5" speakers for the hatch, but there is remarkably little depth for aftermarket speakers and reinstalled the OEM ones. I added sound deadening, while I was in there.
• Taking off door panels in new vehicles always freaks me out the first time. The front and rear doors were fine. The hatch, however, made me feel as though I was going to break something in some areas.
• I didn't bother doing anything with the subwoofer in the hatch. I'm not sure it's doing much, so it wasn't worth upgrading at the moment.
• I did not touch the small tweeters in the pillar or upper back door.
• The OEM speakers look weird (except for the back door ones that seem fairly normal). The front door and dash speakers have a lot of plastic framing in front of the cones. I suppose it keeps them rigid, but seems as though they would block the emission of sound.

All items were purchased from www.crutchfield.com

Thanks for the amazing information. I haven't received my LC yet, but good audio is very important to me and I will be making those upgrades eventually.

 

[Thx_1158]

Same here… trying to avoid mistakes and going down a forever ending audio path. Right now, with the stock 1958 speakers, specifically the dashboard speakers, seem to dominate in the front cab area. If you are missing bass, maybe the JL C6 650 single woofer, no tweeter, is a better option. The woofers definitely lack the higher frequencies. The only other option is Focal. Based on your experience, what do think?

I pulled the doors off today and I used some dynomat to “seal” the Metra adaptors in the doors. Just that brought some bass back, so I think that’s something to ensure when you go in there.

 

[Rubicon15]

I pulled the doors off today and I used some dynomat to “seal” the Metra adaptors in the doors. Just that brought some bass back, so I think that’s something to ensure when you go in there.

Absolutely, I plan on using sound deadening around the opening, behind the plastic mounting bracket. I will also add dynomat inside the door panel, behind the speaker. Foam around the perimeter of the speaker also helps. I plan on posting a question regarding the best dashboard and door speakers for the 1958. Thanks for all your feedback.

 

[AlexGates]

So no issues with the 1.5 inch depth of the 350? Someone posted the depth needed to be less than 1.5 inches. The 350’s twitter looks like it would hit the grille. Any problems? I agree, the pillars are different but the dash should be the same. Maybe someone else will chime in.

1 3/4 is the deepest speaker you can get in there. I have the Hertz 4". Remember to check the polarity, it is reversed on the dash when using the Metra connector. You don't have to splice, the wires will pull out of the to-oem connector.

On mine, one is reversed and the other (driver's) isn't, go figure.

 

[Rubicon15]

1 3/4 is the deepest speaker you can get in there. I have the Hertz 4". Remember to check the polarity, it is reversed on the dash when using the Metra connector. You don't have to splice, the wires will pull out of the to-oem connector.

On mine, one is reversed and the other (driver's) isn't, go figure.

If I understand you correctly, the polarity is reversed but the Metra connection takes this into consideration. Nothing needs to be flipped on the speaker terminals? Is this correct? Sorry, I’m just making sure I understand. Thanks for the information. I’m trying to make sure I cover all the bases.

 

[AlexGates]

If I understand you correctly, the polarity is reversed but the Metra connection takes this into consideration. Nothing needs to be flipped on the speaker terminals? Is this correct? Sorry, I’m just making sure I understand. Thanks for the information. I’m trying to make sure I cover all the bases.

No, the Metra connector when applied to the dash can be wrong the way it comes. You’ll want to check with a multimeter.

 

[Rubicon15]

No, the Metra connector when applied to the dash can be wrong the way it comes. You’ll want to check with a multimeter.

Got it. Easy enough to do and just reverse the terminal wires on the speaker to wire the dashboard speakers in reverse polarity. What color wire “should” be positive?

 

[AlexGates]

Got it. Easy enough to do and just reverse the terminal wires on the speaker to wire the dashboard speakers in reverse polarity. What color wire “should” be positive?

I’d borrow a MM to be sure. I don’t know what the colors are.