What chassis mounted rear recovery point is that?
🛠️ What Have You Done To Your LC250 Today?
- Thread starter pnwlandcruiser_
- Start date
NYTOP
Take a look @ Reno Hitch Recovery Receiver that comes w/ 3/4” shackle for $59 on Amazon ($39 w/o shackle). 7075 Aluminum CNC cut, rated 22K# working, 45K# breaking strength. Impressed with quality. I found most of these recovery receivers, including NYTOP & Reno, are made in China, & Reno was significantly less expensive.
I stretched 5/8” thin o-Rings over shackle pin & the receiver pin to prevent dreaded hitch rattle when driving on bumps.
I stretched 5/8” thin o-Rings over shackle pin & the receiver pin to prevent dreaded hitch rattle when driving on bumps.
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Looks good- I’ll check this one as well
overtrail887
Active member
What hitch pin are you using
I used OE pin.
Until I find a permanent and locking, I’m using this TS35010 Trailer Hitch Pin... Amazon.com along with 3 faucet sprinkler o rings as stability.
Welcome to the asylum.Yokohama Geolandar AT4 275/70/18 mounted. They seem to measure at just a touch over 33" at 33 psi. Not super aggressive looking but meatier than the stock Michelin LTX.
I have those tires on my 3rd gen rav and they kicked ass this winter in the snow, I was very impressed.Yokohama Geolandar AT4 275/70/18 mounted. They seem to measure at just a touch over 33" at 33 psi. Not super aggressive looking but meatier than the stock Michelin LTX.
Today, Miss Daisy got her oil and filter changed (Mobil 1 0W-20 ‘Hybrid oil’ and a Toyota filter. That oil sample will go out to Lake Speed Jr at SPEEDiagnostix first thing tomorrow morning.
I also reset the ‘winter air to summer air’, after rotating out the Michelin X Ice tires for the OEM Michelin LTX tires at Costco a few days ago. They purposely over inflated them with nitrogen to 37 PSI a few days ago, so that when I got home, I could fine tune the air pressure first thing in the morning when ever I got around to it.
I also reset the ‘winter air to summer air’, after rotating out the Michelin X Ice tires for the OEM Michelin LTX tires at Costco a few days ago. They purposely over inflated them with nitrogen to 37 PSI a few days ago, so that when I got home, I could fine tune the air pressure first thing in the morning when ever I got around to it.
Nice. I just ordered that same Mobil “Hybrid” oil for an upcoming oil change I’ll do. Have you used it before, and was there a difference from the “standard” Mobil 0W-20? The price was only like $4 difference so I figured why not.
Welcome to the asylum.
After 35,000 miles, I’ve used it for ALL but two oil oil changes, which were done while traveling cross country, and I got lazy and let some dealers earn their money from Toyota. I tried to buy Toyota 0W-20 from my purchasing dealership, but the kid at the parts counter told me that they don’t sell Toyota motor oil, only Mobil 1. The first one I did at 1300 miles, second one at 5,000 miles, and then every 5,000 miles, Because of some bad crap that happened to a few of the new 2024 owners, I have had oil analysis done by SPEEDiagnostix (The Motor Oil Geek on YouTube) with each oil change, even ones done at the dealer. SPEEDiagnostix is more expensive than Blackstone, who I had used for almost 15 years prior, but the turnaround time is within 2 days after SPEEDiagnostix gets the sample. Blackstone was taking several (2-4) weeks to get their results out.
I honestly don’t know what the difference is between Mobile 1, and Mobile 1 Hybrid oil. I’m just trusting that Exxon knows a lot more than I do about oil formulations, especially for hybrid vehicles. I buy it in 5 quart jugs at Walmart, and buy an extra quart bottle with each 5 quart jug. I really should just have been buying the 5 quart jugs, and pour an extra quart out of a 5 quart jug when I do Miss Daisy’s oil changes, since the one quart bottles are exorbitantly priced.
Once the remaining twelve quarts are used up that I have already purchased, I will switch over to Toyota oil, purchased from a new dealership that I will be using moving forward.
I also recommend the appropriate Fumoto oil drain valve, which makes oil changes much less messy, and also an absolute breeze, ~15 minutes to complete after putting Miss Daisy on a set of $40 to $50 plastic ramps(Auto Zone or Horrible Freight). That includes removing her First Edition skid plate. No torque wrench or crush washer needed for installation of the valve, or ever again for an oil drain plug. Although I do torque the 6 skid plate bolts to ~29nm.
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Cool! Thanks for the thoughts. I picked up two 5qt jugs, and will just use the 2nd one as the “1 qt topper” for each oil change.
And yeah, I’ve been considering the Fumoto valve too, but since I’ve still got 2yrs of pre-paid oil changes, I’d rather not have the dealership guys messing with that valve, in case the occasional anecdotes on this forum are true (re: voiding of warranty nonsense). I’ll install that fumoto once I’m all done with the dealership services.
They only do them at 10k & 20k miles (which still blows my mind—seems too long to go without, but I’m an old fart, so what do I know…) so I’m just doing the 5k and 15k ones myself.
Since I just had her 10k mile oil change done this week, I figured I’d lube the drive shafts (thanks @tacosupreme____ for the recent video).
I was pretty stoked that my zerks were easy to get to first time go. But of course, the last one was the pain — which in my case was the one up front (for me right above the SDM)… my grease coupler refused to let go.
I tried everything. I hit the bleed valve repeatedly, I did the wiggle-wiggle-wiggle, I swore at it, I changed gloves, I whispered sweet nothings, I took a break, I sneak-attacked it, I disconnected the hose to relieve pressure, I tried pulling with pliers gently, then more forcefully, I tried prying with a flathead, I even pushed in and out and did the hokey pokey all about.
After about an hour or so of existential pain, I said F it. If I have to buy a new zerk I’ll buy a new zerk. Hopefully that rather than a whole new u-joint.
I put the hose back on, grabbed it with a set of big pliers and yanked about as hard as I could. It came right off and the zerk looked fine.
Buttoned everything up, put all my tools away, then had my daughter hold a laser level for me while I put on my PRADO badge from Stickerfab (I’ve been SOL trying to get an OEM one for a year)…
Wouldn’t you know it, I dropped one side about an 1/8th of an inch. I’m done for the day guys
I was pretty stoked that my zerks were easy to get to first time go. But of course, the last one was the pain — which in my case was the one up front (for me right above the SDM)… my grease coupler refused to let go.
I tried everything. I hit the bleed valve repeatedly, I did the wiggle-wiggle-wiggle, I swore at it, I changed gloves, I whispered sweet nothings, I took a break, I sneak-attacked it, I disconnected the hose to relieve pressure, I tried pulling with pliers gently, then more forcefully, I tried prying with a flathead, I even pushed in and out and did the hokey pokey all about.
After about an hour or so of existential pain, I said F it. If I have to buy a new zerk I’ll buy a new zerk. Hopefully that rather than a whole new u-joint.
I put the hose back on, grabbed it with a set of big pliers and yanked about as hard as I could. It came right off and the zerk looked fine.
Buttoned everything up, put all my tools away, then had my daughter hold a laser level for me while I put on my PRADO badge from Stickerfab (I’ve been SOL trying to get an OEM one for a year)…
Wouldn’t you know it, I dropped one side about an 1/8th of an inch. I’m done for the day guys
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What oil change interval are you following?
I change the oil and filter as close to 5,000 miles as possible. But for a recent trip to Boston, I changed it slightly early, at about 4600 miles. On another oil change, I was at about 5300 miles. Just the way the chips fell.
The oil is easily good for 10,000 miles, but on a recent video by The Motor Oil Geek, he mentioned that it’s not the oil going bad that destroyed the 6.2 L Chevy engines, but particulates in the oil that cannot be filtered out.
