🛠️ Member Build Blue 250 TRD/OEM+ build

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At 20k miles I was just going to change the diff fluids, but since I was draining the front diff, I thought I should swap in the TRD/Trailhunter CVs. Then I got to thinking, I need to take off the axle nuts to swap the CVs, so I might as well check to see if the larger GX550 front brakes will fit. This includes the backing plates, calipers, and rotors, and Hawk LTS brake pads.

GX550 rotors are 13.9" in diameter vs 13.1" of the 250. GX and LC share the spindles, brake lines, and brake pads so I hope they bolt up and work correctly.
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Some promising news, Toyota might have thrown us a bone to make this a pretty easy brake upgrade. The backing plate did not need modifications for the GX550 rotor or caliper to fit, it is like it was designed for this size rotor.
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Sine the backing plate didn't need to be changed, I decided to go for it.View attachment 76713
Looking forward to getting your feedback on any noticed improvements! As I continue to add weight to mine I am interested in improving the brakes as well.
 
Looking forward to getting your feedback on any noticed improvements! As I continue to add weight to mine I am interested in improving the brakes as well.
I bedded the brake pads in and noticed the increased braking power. This should be at minimum 5% more braking power and 15% more thermal capacity. Hawk LTS pads will help some too.

I'll update this thread after some more driving.
 
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This is actually about 18% more brake torque after finding out the calipers have 13% more piston area than the 250 calipers.

No additional brake pedal travel, I assume the electronic brake booster compensated for the additional volume.

I'm very happy with the brake swap.
 
Great setup for the brakes! I do a lot of towing and would love something better. Any chance you would be willing to post the part numbers?
Also anything specific with regard to brake bleeding on the LCs?
 
Great setup for the brakes! I do a lot of towing and would love something better. Any chance you would be willing to post the part numbers?
Also anything specific with regard to brake bleeding on the LCs?
I made a post about it on Ih8mud.

47730-60480 brake caliper front right
47750-60480 brake caliper front left
43512-60291 Disc Front
brembo might have a slightly heavier rotor at 26lbs that can be used.

I bench bleed the calipers before installing them. Once on the vehicle, it was fairly easy to let gravity and the help of a rubber mallet to bleed out the remaining bit of the air left in there. I used 2 12 ounce bottles of Toyota Dot 3 brake fluid.
 
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Adding brake bleed procedure, when not using TechStream (GTS).

If you allow air to get into the actuator or booster you have to use GTS to bleed that, so do not let that reservoir get empty!

BLEED BRAKE LINE (When Not Using the GTS)

NOTICE:

  • Performing the following procedure enters ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Deactivate Mode without using the GTS.
  • ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Deactivate Mode allows the brake lines to be bled without using the GTS.
  • The brake warning light blinks (yellow) to indicate that ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Deactivate Mode is selected.
  • Be sure to confirm that the brake warning light is blinking (yellow) throughout the brake line bleeding procedure.
  • If any of the following conditions are met, ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Deactivate Mode is canceled and the brake warning light (yellow) turns off. Do not allow ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Deactivate Mode to be canceled while bleeding the brake lines or DTCs may be stored.
    A shift state other than park (P) is selected.
    The ignition switch is turned to ON (READY).
    The ignition switch is turned off.
    The parking brake is released.
    The vehicle speed is more than 0 km/h (0 mph).
  • Do not rotate any brake disc while ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Deactivate Mode is selected.
  • Although the brake warning light (yellow) will blink and a buzzer will sound while performing brake line bleeding, this is not a malfunction.
(a) Remove all 4 wheels.

(b) Enter ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Deactivate Mode.

(1) Perform the procedure listed below within 1 minute.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON with park (P) selected and parking brake applied.
  2. Select neutral (N) and then depress the brake pedal more than 8 times within 5 seconds.
  3. Push the P position switch and then depress the brake pedal more than 8 times within 5 seconds.
  4. Select neutral (N) and then depress the brake pedal more than 8 times within 5 seconds.
  5. Push the P position switch.
(2) Check that the brake warning light is blinking (yellow).
Brake Warning Light (Yellow)

(c) Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.

(1) Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.

(2) Add brake fluid to the reservoir until the fluid level is between the MAX and MIN lines on the brake fluid reservoir.

Brake Fluid:

SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

SAE J1704 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT4

(d) Bleed the brake lines.

(1) Connect a vinyl tube to the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder assembly RH.

(2) Depress the brake pedal several times with approximately 1 second between each depression, and then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal depressed.*1

(3) When brake fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug and then release the brake pedal for 1 second or more.*2

HINT:

When the brake pedal is released, the piston inside the master cylinder may take longer than the brake pedal to return to its original position. Therefore, make sure to wait for 1 second or more between each depression of the brake pedal.

(4) Repeat steps *1 and *2 until all the air in the brake fluid is completely bled out.

(5) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.

Torque:

10.8 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf}

(6) Bleed the brake lines from the front disc brake cylinder assembly LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.

(7) Connect a vinyl tube to the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder assembly LH.

(8) Depress the brake pedal several times with approximately 1 second between each depression, and then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal depressed.*3

(9) When brake fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug and then release the brake pedal for 1 second or more.*4

HINT:

When the brake pedal is released, the piston inside the master cylinder may take longer than the brake pedal to return to its original position. Therefore, make sure to wait for 1 second or more between each depression of the brake pedal.

(10) Repeat steps *3 and *4 until all the air in the brake fluid is completely bled out.

(11) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.

Torque:

10.8 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf}

(12) Bleed the brake lines from the rear disc brake cylinder assembly RH using the same procedure as for the LH side.

(13) Turn the ignition switch off.

(e) Inspect for brake fluid leaks.

(f) Adjust the brake fluid level in the reservoir.

(g) Install the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.

(h) Install all 4 wheels.
 
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Nice Job!
Have you checked the clearance between the UCA and the coil spring at full droop with the front sway bar disconnected? Does the UCA contact or rub against the spring at all?
I'm asking because with my front sway bar disconnected, my factory LC250 UCA slightly contacts the after market 1.5 lift suspension coil spring at full droop. I'm considering switching to the TRD Pro UCAs for more clearance.
 
Nice Job!
Have you checked the clearance between the UCA and the coil spring at full droop with the front sway bar disconnected? Does the UCA contact or rub against the spring at all?
I'm asking because with my front sway bar disconnected, my factory LC250 UCA slightly contacts the after market 1.5 lift suspension coil spring at full droop. I'm considering switching to the TRD Pro UCAs for more clearance.
Yeah, I have checked at full droop. The arms have more clearance for larger extended travel shocks.

I was having your same issue on my GX550 with MT64 shocks and stock upper arms. Switched to the trailhunter upper arms (same as the trd ones, just different color) and now no more spring contact at full droop.
 
Got the TRD axles in and changed the front/rear diff and transfercase oil.
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I had not seen anyone mention that the axles were thicker too.
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The inner joint is also a lot bigger in diameter.
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