Rear diff breather install

[MSINAL]

No offense. This thread was about cheaper options.

I got these OEM parts for $20, so it was worth it for me.

Relocating a check valve breather cheaply defeats the purpose.
The point is primarily to protect the wheel bearings and reduce diff oil replacement frequency which is not properly accomplished by just raising the breather location.
You should buy ARB diff breathers (no check valve) and mount them in engine compartment. This will help protect against water and muck getting sucked into the wheel bearings.

Do some more research before committing to this mod

Edit: some mention of people being upset further down. Rereading my post i can understand the perception, it reads a bit abrasive-though unintentionally. I'm not trying to devalue anyone's contribution to the discussion, nor will anyone upset me by criticizing mine. I welcome being corrected, and definitely dont want to spread false info.

Differential Breather Kit 170112

Diff Breather Kit

store.arbusa.com

 

[Bad1975]

@MSINAL

Waste of money but to each their own. The primary purpose is to vent the pressure from the expanding and heated fluid from within the axle, transfer case and transmission to protect from seal failure, the secondary function is to seal water out while allowing the venting to occur.

Relocating higher accomplishes everything anyone would need, do these require maintenance, yes if you care about your seals.

Failing seals not caught early could be quite expensive, especially with a married transfer case. Lots of other Landcruiser series with manual transmissions people often route the xfer vent back into the manual box via a plug adapter as when the seal between the two fails the trans fluid disappears into the transfer case overfilling it while draining the transmission.

The maintenance takes less than a minute to check/clean all four once they are relocated, 10 if your mechanically challenged. ARB at over $180.00 to do all four or half the price of a single ARB to do it on the cheap. The tubing the ARB uses doesn't hold up as well either. They other downside to the ARB is all it takes for the hose to come off is a little downward pressure on the locking mechanism and the tube will come out in short order.

I've never had one of the OEM style allow water into the diff/xfer/transmission, even when mounted on the axle. The bigger risk is trail debris pulling the cap off when axle mounted and then the spring and ball are gone forever, seen plenty of missing caps/ball/spring or damaged caps preventing them from operating.

 

[EOD Guy]

@MSINAL

Waste of money but to each their own. The primary purpose is to vent the pressure from the expanding and heated fluid from within the axle, transfer case and transmission to protect from seal failure, the secondary function is to seal water out while allowing the venting to occur.

Relocating higher accomplishes everything anyone would need, do these require maintenance, yes if you care about your seals.

Failing seals not caught early could be quite expensive, especially with a married transfer case. Lots of other Landcruiser series with manual transmissions people often route the xfer vent back into the manual box via a plug adapter as when the seal between the two fails the trans fluid disappears into the transfer case overfilling it while draining the transmission.

The maintenance takes less than a minute to check/clean all four once they are relocated, 10 if your mechanically challenged. ARB at over $180.00 to do all four or half the price of a single ARB to do it on the cheap. The tubing the ARB uses doesn't hold up as well either. They other downside to the ARB is all it takes for the hose to come off is a little downward pressure on the locking mechanism and the tube will come out in short order.

I've never had one of the OEM style allow water into the diff/xfer/transmission, even when mounted on the axle. The bigger risk is trail debris pulling the cap off when axle mounted and then the spring and ball are gone forever, seen plenty of missing caps/ball/spring or damaged caps preventing them from operating.

I feel gipped....... I relocated mine for less than $5.00...... reusing the OEM breather/cap.

 

[MSINAL]

@MSINAL

Waste of money but to each their own. The primary purpose is to vent the pressure from the expanding and heated fluid from within the axle, transfer case and transmission to protect from seal failure, the secondary function is to seal water out while allowing the venting to occur.

Relocating higher accomplishes everything anyone would need, do these require maintenance, yes if you care about your seals.

Failing seals not caught early could be quite expensive, especially with a married transfer case. Lots of other Landcruiser series with manual transmissions people often route the xfer vent back into the manual box via a plug adapter as when the seal between the two fails the trans fluid disappears into the transfer case overfilling it while draining the transmission.

The maintenance takes less than a minute to check/clean all four once they are relocated, 10 if your mechanically challenged. ARB at over $180.00 to do all four or half the price of a single ARB to do it on the cheap. The tubing the ARB uses doesn't hold up as well either. They other downside to the ARB is all it takes for the hose to come off is a little downward pressure on the locking mechanism and the tube will come out in short order.

I've never had one of the OEM style allow water into the diff/xfer/transmission, even when mounted on the axle. The bigger risk is trail debris pulling the cap off when axle mounted and then the spring and ball are gone forever, seen plenty of missing caps/ball/spring or damaged caps preventing them from operating.

Issue is not the pressure leaving the diffs, issue is the cooling of the air in diffs when submerging causing lower pressure than atmosphere. This can happen because the stock breathers have check valves. This is instance when water can enter the axle seals, it will equalize one way or another. The ARB kit is $89 for 2 connections.

 

[Bad1975]

I feel gipped....... I relocated mine for less than $5.00...... reusing the OEM breather/cap.

Smart man!

 

[Bad1975]

Issue is not the pressure leaving the diffs, issue is the cooling of the air in diffs when submerging causing lower pressure than atmosphere. This can happen because the stock breathers have check valves. This is instance when water can enter the axle seals, it will equalize one way or another. The ARB kit is $89 for 2 connections.

Plug your breather and see what happens to your seals in short order they will leak on once they start they don't normally stop leaking.

This is mostly a myth designed to grab your money much like ribbed diff covers to cool the diff! The seals can withstand more pressure/vacuum (Typically rated for ~7 PSI or above) than the change in temperature can cause which certainly won't exceed 7 PSI unless of course you're doing a very long fording event where the water is just above freezing and the axle was scalding hot, then maybe if the seal is worn or debris in the fluid has caused seal wear.

If you've ever changed an axle seal you'd know how tight, rigid and robust they are. They make seal removers and drivers for a reason. I'd be willing to bet without the seal installed it would take at least 30 psi to be able to deflect the rubber and it only gets harder once installed. Could a overly worn seal (never changed) in a neglected axle (never had fluid changed) have this happen, for sure. Most people don't even know there are seals in their axles/diffs until they leak and then some still don't what the cause is and just assume its brake fluid and most will never change diff fluid during their entire ownership either.

I've literally been buried to my windows in a Dodge with a 6" lift and 35s (frame to ground) in a Sloppy watery mug bog during winter for 30 minutes after offroading most of the day, door seals didn't leak (crawled out the window and into the bed to attach a buddies winch), neither diff nor the transfer case had water in them (same style breather) no seal failures. What did happen as result is the transmission vent which was at the top of the firewall was submerged (these normally don't have a sealing mechanism when firewall mounted) and sucked muddy water into the transmission.

Drove that truck straight to the dealer 20 miles and had 19 miles left on warranty and they had to pump 50 gallons of trans fluid through to flush it and changed the filter 3 times, put another 65k on that one without incident. Dealer estimated there was 15lbs of mud in the transmission and it sounded like I was in 4WD on the highway while I wasn't. All labor covered under warranty to boot, I had to pay for fluid/filters. I beat the crap out of that truck and it just kept going, even seized the front diff after an offroad event due to heat buildup and not disengaging both sides when going to 2WD (switch controlled 4WD automatic hubs), parked it overnight came back dropped the fluid and replaced and drove home without incident and kept going for at least 2 more years when I sold it.

Anyway, for me it's a waste of money. If it causes one panic maybe one should install the ARB or similar style, hell I have one from Bison gear on my 40 that I paid way too much for and has 3 provisions for breathers, still cheaper than the ARB kit, the 40 will never see water crossings above the bottom of the axles so it was and is overkill and a waste of money.

My 80 has a plastic check valve on the diesel tank breather where the hose is routed into a frame cross member from the factory and I don't worry about filling its tank with water when doing water crossings and submerging that either.

 

[Area 51]

Order Parts

Order Parts

www.edmartintoyota.com

Can do many ways.
OEM is my way.
Complete kit.

 

[RideWithYanu]

I feel gipped....... I relocated mine for less than $5.00...... reusing the OEM breather/cap.

When I was installing mine and I saw the OEM breather while removing, I wondered “why wouldn’t you just reuse this?” I second guessed myself against doing so as I already had the aftermarket one on hand, and more-so because I assumed there must be some reason not to. I’m very grateful for how much I learn on these forums.

Order Parts

Order Parts

www.edmartintoyota.com

Can do many ways.
OEM is my way.
Complete kit.

Lots of good choices!

 

[EOD Guy]

I have nothing against buying "kits" ..... but for this...... a hose barb, some hose and about 30 min of my time...........

 

[turbo8]

I'm not sure why there are people arguing about this.

The light duty 250 didn't come with the extended rear breather, like the heavier duty 300 series. If Toyota deemed it necessary on the 300, it definitely can't hurt to put it on the 250.

There is now a 250 specific kit from Toyota to make it easier to source all the parts. PT595-60240

 

[Q8_250]

I don’t under stand why people get mad because someone paid more for something while it can be done for cheaper, for some people money isn’t an issue and it makes them happy to pay or spend it, some people like to source things out and make their stuff and it makes them happy, and depending on their usage of their vehicle.
If i’m overlanding, crossing rivers and muddy pits I’d route everything to engine bay, if I’m lightly using the vehicle for weekend or seasonal camping in arid areas and i know crossing water isn’t going to happen i might not touch the breather, and at best i might do the extension upgrade for a peace of mind, i still didn’t touch the diff breather yet, but when camping season start i’d buy Ed Martin kit just in case, i know it can be done for $5, but i like to put my head on a pillow knowing it looks OEM and no body would care or notice but me, so guys be happy for people enjoying their cars.

 

[EOD Guy]

I don’t under stand why people get mad because someone paid more for something while it can be done for cheaper, for some people money isn’t an issue and it makes them happy to pay or spend it, some people like to source things out and make their stuff and it makes them happy, and depending on their usage of their vehicle.
If i’m overlanding, crossing rivers and muddy pits I’d route everything to engine bay, if I’m lightly using the vehicle for weekend or seasonal camping in arid areas and i know crossing water isn’t going to happen i might not touch the breather, and at best i might do the extension upgrade for a peace of mind, i still didn’t touch the diff breather yet, but when camping season start i’d buy Ed Martin kit just in case, i know it can be done for $5, but i like to put my head on a pillow knowing it looks OEM and no body would care or notice but me, so guys be happy for people enjoying their cars.

Sorry, I don't see where anybody was "mad". I do believe strongly where "it's your money, spend it however you want" I also believe that if there are options, some people might want to know what those options are.

In my case, I wasn't concerned about high water intrusion, I was concerned with mud gumming up the function of the vent cap as I don't regularly craw under and spray off the vent cap because that might actually introduce moisture into the diff. After installing my Aux fuel tank and discovering a large void behind the inner fender liner, I'm thinking about extending my vent line to that area.

 

[Dano]

Another great LC Forum set of posts educating the more recently offroad initiated.

The rear diff breather mod seems like a "no brainer" (my specialty!).
I was planning to proceed with the OEM kit but hoped to find out if there was an existing hole in the frame crossmember where I would place that kit rivet (I'm not interested in drilling any holes there). I'm guessing the answer is yes, but figured I'd ask and save myself the backslide across my garage floor.

Thanks.

 

[turbo8]

Another great LC Forum set of posts educating the more recently offroad initiated.

The rear diff breather mod seems like a "no brainer" (my specialty!).
I was planning to proceed with the OEM kit but hoped to find out if there was an existing hole in the frame crossmember where I would place that kit rivet (I'm not interested in drilling any holes there). I'm guessing the answer is yes, but figured I'd ask and save myself the backslide across my garage floor.

Thanks.

Yeah, the hole is already there.

 

[aamays]

I'm not sure why there are people arguing about this.

The light duty 250 didn't come with the extended rear breather, like the heavier duty 300 series. If Toyota deemed it necessary on the 300, it definitely can't hurt to put it on the 250.

There is now a 250 specific kit from Toyota to make it easier to source all the parts. PT595-60240

I ordered this week, but it is on back order. It is expected to ship in 2ish weeks.

 

[Markarian421]

Order Parts

Order Parts

www.edmartintoyota.com

Can do many ways.
OEM is my way.
Complete kit.

$50 at my local dealer. Great, now I bought another thing to install.

 

[Markarian421]

Did anyone ever post instructions for the Toyota part? If not, here they are.