FX install video:
This install isn’t that hard at all and is completely doable by one highly motivated person with jackstands/ramps and a couple of jacks. But it’s not for the faint of heart! Highly recommend a lift and transmission stands and two people.
I advise anyone installing the FK 12 gal Aux tank to watch their video a zillion times. Below is my install…….. It’s a good idea to run the fuel level to under 1/8 of a tank! Unless you have a lift and a tall jack, or tape off the fittings, when you drop the tank, you will most probably spill fuel! Luckly I had the shipping caps from the GX 550 tank I purchased on a previous fuel tank swap attempt.
The video from FX does not disconnect the electrical connectors from the interior access cover area and the steps to gain access may not be what you elect to do, but that’s what I did.
The following step may or may not be needed. I had Ed Martin’s Toyota attempt a previous FX 550 Fuel tank swap and I’m not sure if the Tech cut the carpet or not. If you flip the passenger side seat and look to see if the carpet has a wide “V” cut into it. (note: The carpet is scored with the "V" but not cut)
If the “V” hasn’t been physically cut into the carpet.
It’s a lot easier to remove the Pass side rear seat:
1 - Flip the passenger seat forward.
2 - Remove the front and rear trim panels covering the 4 bolts.
3 - Unplug the white electrical harness from the seat.
4 - Remove the four (15mm) bolts that secure the seat to the floor.
5 - Flip the seat into the cargo area (it’s a little heavy and very awkward).
6 - cut a wide “V” into the carpet.
7 - Fold the “V” piece of carpet up.
8 - Remove the metal black cover plate. It is held on by butyl rubber and is easily pried off, (I placed a piece of plastic over the butyl rubber and plate to keep it from getting all over everything)
9 - Remove the plastic protective cover. (note: the large arrow embossed on the plastic cover points towards the front bumper)
10 - Disconnect the two electrical plugs from the fuel pump (these are keyed so no need to mark them). The two with a blue circle have a “Blue Keeper”.
Note: The keepers are a PITA to remove, I used a small flat bladed jeweler’s screw driver and a hook tool. Most of the time you only need the small screwdriver.
11 - Raise the vehicle with a lift, jackstands or whatever works for you.
12 - Support the fuel tank with some type of lowering device. I used a Harbor Freight “lift table” and some 2x4’s. This was awkward but doable. The jack stands were barely tall enough and after I lowered the table, I had to slide the fuel tank off the table on to the ground.
13 - Remove the three (12mm) fuel tank skid plate (one is hard to see lying on your back)
14 - Remove the two (14mm) mounting bolts.
15 - Remove the two pivot pins and keepers and place in a zip-lock bag.
16 - Lower the fuel tank to the point where the Large hose (gray Keeper) is almost stretched tight. If you removed the pass side rear seat this can be viewed through the access hole, if you didn’t remove the seat, you will ……LOL
17 - Disconnect the “Orange keeper” hard line (Iocated just above the tank, fwd end)
18 - Disconnect the slightly larger “violet keeper” /mid size hose. This can be done through the access hole (If you aren’t going to finish this project right away, it’s a good idea to cover the ends of the hoses with plastic to prevent debris from entering. If there’s no delay I don’t think covering is necessary).
19 - Disconnect the “Gray keeper” / large hose
20 - Remove the two Nuts (10mm) from the wire harness plastic “ring” (one on the side and one to the rear)
20 - Lower and remove the fuel tank.
21 - Remove the exhaust pipe and set aside.
22 - Remove the two heat shields (lower shield, three (12mm). Upper four (10mm nuts)) Discard the heat shield with three bolts (red circles), the kit comes with a new heavy duty alum shield
24 - Remove the OEM large crossover pipe from the frame (12mm) and discard.
25 - Remove the OEM corrugated tube (Red keeper on one end and Green keeper on the other) from the clips in the frame and discard.
26 - Install new cross over tubes.
28 - Mount the new fuel filter.
29 - Plug in the “Fuel Pressure” wire extension and pull up through the rear seat access hole.
30 - Connect the “new” short hose to the “OUT” side of the fuel filter.
31 - Connect the “new” long hose to the “IN” side of the fuel filter.
32- using a spanner wrench remove the fuel pump locking ring. (I purchased a spanner from Amazon, it’s not the best, but it did the job)
33 - Remove the fuel pump (takes a bit of jiggling) and cover the opening in the tank with plastic to prevent debris from getting in the tank. Blow off the pump with shop air or allow it to air out.
34 - Referring the FK video ……….. 1st take a picture of "your" routing of the Blk, Yel, Blu and Red wires on your pump, then gently unplug and remove the three wire connectors, then unwrap the wires them from the plastic retaining hook, unclip the fuel level float and set aside.
35 - Pry the three tabs holding the lower bucket to the rest of the fuel pump, then pry up the three “yellow” tabs and jiggle the fuel pump out of the bottom bucket. (I marked the alignment with a sharpie, but I don’t know if it was necessary). The small corrugated hose with the lite blue connector, is the only one that needs to be removed from the OEM pump. Mark and cut the bottom bucket in accordance with the FK video. Installing the new hoses is quite daunting, heating the end up with a heat gun and forcing it over the barbed fitting. Heat the “new” smaller hose and force over the barb. Heat the larger hose end and force over the barb in the top plate. With careful alignment reassemble the bottom bucket, the new valve (Has the small hose and a larger hose preinstalled from FX) and fuel pump.
36 - Clean the “O” ring mounting surface and place the “O” ring in the grove. Insert the fuel pump assembly into the hole making sure the two alignment tabs are aligned with the slots in the tank’s locking surface. While holding the pump assembly down start the locking ring by hand. (use only enough downward pressure to seat the pump). Use the spanner to tighten the locking ring. There are alignment arrows to verify you installed it correctly (arrows align when tight).
37 - Position the fuel tank for reinstallation, raise the tank to a point that you can still make connections.
38 - Connect the “new” short fuel hose (other end is connected to the fuel filter) to the top of the fuel pump where the “fuel pressure sensor” was previously connected.
39 - Route and secure with zip ties the fuel pressure extension wire in the channel
40 - Connect the “Violet” Keeper.
41 - Connect the “Gray” Keeper.
42 - Raise the tank and reinstall the “tank straps”.
43 - Reconnect Fuel pump electrical connectors.
44 - Reposition grounding strap.
45 - Install the fuel pressure sensor on the Aux tank (insuring the “O” ring is installed under the fitting)
46 - Remove the Vapor canister line cover and Install the “O” ring and the new fitting.
47 - Remove the OEM skid plates
48 - Support transmission with a jack.
49 - Remove transmission cross member/mount (4 long bolts/nuts and 4 bolts into the transmission). (getting the plastic cover off to allow the removal of the transmission bolts, is a mystery, I ended up breaking two of the plastic tabs and will have to replace the cover).
50 - Remove this bracket two bolts (12mm) No where in the FK video does it tell you to remove this but it must come off in order for the tank to clear the driveshaft)
51 - Remove the Dvr’s side rear Torsen bar mount bolt.
52- Install the front Aux tank mounting bracket, reusing the OEM Torsen bar mount bolt (do not tighten yet)
53 - Raise Aux tank into place and loosely install the front two mounting bolts. I used a ratchet strap to pull the transfer case/transmission to the passenger’s side slightly in order to get the Aux tank to fit up into the space.
54 - Pop out the plastic covers from the frame to allow you to insert the “fishing nuts”
55 - Using one of the larger FK supplied “fishing” nuts, loosely install one of the rear/side mounting bolts.
56 - Using one of the smaller FK supplied “fishing” nuts, loosely install the other rear/side mounting bolt.
57 - Reinstall transmission cross member/mount. (Note leave the jack holding up the transmission and start the 4 transmission bolts into the transmission and finger tight) Use a 2nd jack and raise the cross member and insert one of the outer bolts, switch the jack to the other side and insert both bolts and finally insert the last bolt. Tighten/torque the 4 transmission bolts and lastly the 4 cross member bolts and nuts.
58 - Do a torque test for the Torsen bar mount bolt, cross member bolts.
59 - Insert the FK large spacer, washer and long bolt, through the Transmission cross member and into the Aux tank threaded bolt hole.
60 - Connect all the tubes/hoses to the Aux tank and install the “long tube” mount on top of the Dvr’s side frame (best of luck with fishing that nut in there). Do not tighten the rubber “L” hose clamps.
61 - tighten /torque all the Aux tank mounting bolts.
62 - Mounting / routing of the long metal tube and, corrugated “T” tube and the long tube with the white plastic coupler are mounted/ran on top of the dvr’s side frame rail. It’s hard to determine watching the FX video.
63 - Tighten the two hose clamps. Ensure the clamps and rubber hose are completely engaging the metal tube. Ensure the clamps do not squish/force out the metal tube when tightening the clamp
64 - Install the short-corrugated cross over fuel line to the new tank.
65 - Zip tie everything.
66 - Reinstall Skid plates.
67 - Install the OEM upper heat shield and the new FK heat shield.
68 - Reinstall exhaust pipe.
69 - Do a final nut and bolt check.
70 - Install the Aux tank cross-over fuel line protective cover using “fish nuts”. Which could be a little challenging if you have rock rails or running boards as they interfere with flush mounting of the FK cover.
80 - If you did a DIY install, step back and admire your work.
This install isn’t that hard at all and is completely doable by one highly motivated person with jackstands/ramps and a couple of jacks. But it’s not for the faint of heart! Highly recommend a lift and transmission stands and two people.
I advise anyone installing the FK 12 gal Aux tank to watch their video a zillion times. Below is my install…….. It’s a good idea to run the fuel level to under 1/8 of a tank! Unless you have a lift and a tall jack, or tape off the fittings, when you drop the tank, you will most probably spill fuel! Luckly I had the shipping caps from the GX 550 tank I purchased on a previous fuel tank swap attempt.
The video from FX does not disconnect the electrical connectors from the interior access cover area and the steps to gain access may not be what you elect to do, but that’s what I did.
The following step may or may not be needed. I had Ed Martin’s Toyota attempt a previous FX 550 Fuel tank swap and I’m not sure if the Tech cut the carpet or not. If you flip the passenger side seat and look to see if the carpet has a wide “V” cut into it. (note: The carpet is scored with the "V" but not cut)
If the “V” hasn’t been physically cut into the carpet.
It’s a lot easier to remove the Pass side rear seat:
1 - Flip the passenger seat forward.
2 - Remove the front and rear trim panels covering the 4 bolts.
3 - Unplug the white electrical harness from the seat.
4 - Remove the four (15mm) bolts that secure the seat to the floor.
5 - Flip the seat into the cargo area (it’s a little heavy and very awkward).
6 - cut a wide “V” into the carpet.
7 - Fold the “V” piece of carpet up.
8 - Remove the metal black cover plate. It is held on by butyl rubber and is easily pried off, (I placed a piece of plastic over the butyl rubber and plate to keep it from getting all over everything)
9 - Remove the plastic protective cover. (note: the large arrow embossed on the plastic cover points towards the front bumper)
10 - Disconnect the two electrical plugs from the fuel pump (these are keyed so no need to mark them). The two with a blue circle have a “Blue Keeper”.
Note: The keepers are a PITA to remove, I used a small flat bladed jeweler’s screw driver and a hook tool. Most of the time you only need the small screwdriver.
11 - Raise the vehicle with a lift, jackstands or whatever works for you.
12 - Support the fuel tank with some type of lowering device. I used a Harbor Freight “lift table” and some 2x4’s. This was awkward but doable. The jack stands were barely tall enough and after I lowered the table, I had to slide the fuel tank off the table on to the ground.
13 - Remove the three (12mm) fuel tank skid plate (one is hard to see lying on your back)
14 - Remove the two (14mm) mounting bolts.
15 - Remove the two pivot pins and keepers and place in a zip-lock bag.
16 - Lower the fuel tank to the point where the Large hose (gray Keeper) is almost stretched tight. If you removed the pass side rear seat this can be viewed through the access hole, if you didn’t remove the seat, you will ……LOL
17 - Disconnect the “Orange keeper” hard line (Iocated just above the tank, fwd end)
18 - Disconnect the slightly larger “violet keeper” /mid size hose. This can be done through the access hole (If you aren’t going to finish this project right away, it’s a good idea to cover the ends of the hoses with plastic to prevent debris from entering. If there’s no delay I don’t think covering is necessary).
19 - Disconnect the “Gray keeper” / large hose
20 - Remove the two Nuts (10mm) from the wire harness plastic “ring” (one on the side and one to the rear)
20 - Lower and remove the fuel tank.
21 - Remove the exhaust pipe and set aside.
22 - Remove the two heat shields (lower shield, three (12mm). Upper four (10mm nuts)) Discard the heat shield with three bolts (red circles), the kit comes with a new heavy duty alum shield
24 - Remove the OEM large crossover pipe from the frame (12mm) and discard.
25 - Remove the OEM corrugated tube (Red keeper on one end and Green keeper on the other) from the clips in the frame and discard.
26 - Install new cross over tubes.
28 - Mount the new fuel filter.
29 - Plug in the “Fuel Pressure” wire extension and pull up through the rear seat access hole.
30 - Connect the “new” short hose to the “OUT” side of the fuel filter.
31 - Connect the “new” long hose to the “IN” side of the fuel filter.
32- using a spanner wrench remove the fuel pump locking ring. (I purchased a spanner from Amazon, it’s not the best, but it did the job)
33 - Remove the fuel pump (takes a bit of jiggling) and cover the opening in the tank with plastic to prevent debris from getting in the tank. Blow off the pump with shop air or allow it to air out.
34 - Referring the FK video ……….. 1st take a picture of "your" routing of the Blk, Yel, Blu and Red wires on your pump, then gently unplug and remove the three wire connectors, then unwrap the wires them from the plastic retaining hook, unclip the fuel level float and set aside.
35 - Pry the three tabs holding the lower bucket to the rest of the fuel pump, then pry up the three “yellow” tabs and jiggle the fuel pump out of the bottom bucket. (I marked the alignment with a sharpie, but I don’t know if it was necessary). The small corrugated hose with the lite blue connector, is the only one that needs to be removed from the OEM pump. Mark and cut the bottom bucket in accordance with the FK video. Installing the new hoses is quite daunting, heating the end up with a heat gun and forcing it over the barbed fitting. Heat the “new” smaller hose and force over the barb. Heat the larger hose end and force over the barb in the top plate. With careful alignment reassemble the bottom bucket, the new valve (Has the small hose and a larger hose preinstalled from FX) and fuel pump.
36 - Clean the “O” ring mounting surface and place the “O” ring in the grove. Insert the fuel pump assembly into the hole making sure the two alignment tabs are aligned with the slots in the tank’s locking surface. While holding the pump assembly down start the locking ring by hand. (use only enough downward pressure to seat the pump). Use the spanner to tighten the locking ring. There are alignment arrows to verify you installed it correctly (arrows align when tight).
37 - Position the fuel tank for reinstallation, raise the tank to a point that you can still make connections.
38 - Connect the “new” short fuel hose (other end is connected to the fuel filter) to the top of the fuel pump where the “fuel pressure sensor” was previously connected.
39 - Route and secure with zip ties the fuel pressure extension wire in the channel
40 - Connect the “Violet” Keeper.
41 - Connect the “Gray” Keeper.
42 - Raise the tank and reinstall the “tank straps”.
43 - Reconnect Fuel pump electrical connectors.
44 - Reposition grounding strap.
45 - Install the fuel pressure sensor on the Aux tank (insuring the “O” ring is installed under the fitting)
46 - Remove the Vapor canister line cover and Install the “O” ring and the new fitting.
47 - Remove the OEM skid plates
48 - Support transmission with a jack.
49 - Remove transmission cross member/mount (4 long bolts/nuts and 4 bolts into the transmission). (getting the plastic cover off to allow the removal of the transmission bolts, is a mystery, I ended up breaking two of the plastic tabs and will have to replace the cover).
50 - Remove this bracket two bolts (12mm) No where in the FK video does it tell you to remove this but it must come off in order for the tank to clear the driveshaft)
51 - Remove the Dvr’s side rear Torsen bar mount bolt.
52- Install the front Aux tank mounting bracket, reusing the OEM Torsen bar mount bolt (do not tighten yet)
53 - Raise Aux tank into place and loosely install the front two mounting bolts. I used a ratchet strap to pull the transfer case/transmission to the passenger’s side slightly in order to get the Aux tank to fit up into the space.
54 - Pop out the plastic covers from the frame to allow you to insert the “fishing nuts”
55 - Using one of the larger FK supplied “fishing” nuts, loosely install one of the rear/side mounting bolts.
56 - Using one of the smaller FK supplied “fishing” nuts, loosely install the other rear/side mounting bolt.
57 - Reinstall transmission cross member/mount. (Note leave the jack holding up the transmission and start the 4 transmission bolts into the transmission and finger tight) Use a 2nd jack and raise the cross member and insert one of the outer bolts, switch the jack to the other side and insert both bolts and finally insert the last bolt. Tighten/torque the 4 transmission bolts and lastly the 4 cross member bolts and nuts.
58 - Do a torque test for the Torsen bar mount bolt, cross member bolts.
59 - Insert the FK large spacer, washer and long bolt, through the Transmission cross member and into the Aux tank threaded bolt hole.
60 - Connect all the tubes/hoses to the Aux tank and install the “long tube” mount on top of the Dvr’s side frame (best of luck with fishing that nut in there). Do not tighten the rubber “L” hose clamps.
61 - tighten /torque all the Aux tank mounting bolts.
62 - Mounting / routing of the long metal tube and, corrugated “T” tube and the long tube with the white plastic coupler are mounted/ran on top of the dvr’s side frame rail. It’s hard to determine watching the FX video.
63 - Tighten the two hose clamps. Ensure the clamps and rubber hose are completely engaging the metal tube. Ensure the clamps do not squish/force out the metal tube when tightening the clamp
64 - Install the short-corrugated cross over fuel line to the new tank.
65 - Zip tie everything.
66 - Reinstall Skid plates.
67 - Install the OEM upper heat shield and the new FK heat shield.
68 - Reinstall exhaust pipe.
69 - Do a final nut and bolt check.
70 - Install the Aux tank cross-over fuel line protective cover using “fish nuts”. Which could be a little challenging if you have rock rails or running boards as they interfere with flush mounting of the FK cover.
80 - If you did a DIY install, step back and admire your work.
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