Just installed the Tacoma Trail Hunter CVs.
I wanted to make a post since there isn't a ton of information out there about this upgrade and i personally have searched the internet for answers like the list below:
My theory is that when the CV joint fails, the front differential can jolt upward and contact the upper oil pan. There is very little clearance between the differential and oil pan, and the factory differential mounts use rubber bushings that allow some movement.
In an effort to reduce the chances of this happening, I addressed both the CV itself and the differential:
1. ICON differential drop
A diff drop has a few potential benefits on a lifted LC250. Most importantly, lowering the differential improves the CV axle operating angle created by the lift. Reducing that angle should reduce stress on the CV joints and potentially reduce the likelihood of failure in the first place.
It also creates additional clearance between the front differential and upper oil pan. If a CV does fail and causes the differential to move violently, that additional space may reduce the chance of the differential contacting and cracking the oil pan.
The ICON diff drop also replaces the factory rubber differential bushings with polyurethane bushings. The stiffer polyurethane should reduce differential movement under load, adding another layer of protection.
So the diff drop potentially addresses the problem three ways: better CV angles, more oil-pan clearance, and less differential movement.
2. Tacoma TRD Pro/Trailhunter CV axles
The Tacoma CVs use a different inner-joint design than the factory LC250 axles. The LC250 uses a tripod-style inner joint, which appears to be the weak point in the failures that have been reported. The Tacoma TRD Pro/Trailhunter axle uses a more robust inner-joint design rather than the LC250-style tripod arrangement.
So the Tacoma CV swap isn't simply replacing the LC250 axle with another Toyota CV. You're upgrading to a different and seemingly stronger inner-joint design, while the diff drop puts that joint at a more favorable operating angle.
One thing worth knowing if you plan to order the Tacoma CVs: you'll need a Tacoma TRD Pro or Trailhunter VIN. Apparently Toyota has flagged these parts and requires a qualifying VIN, presumably to keep replacement inventory available for the vehicles they were originally intended for.
Obviously, none of this guarantees that a CV failure—or resulting damage—can't happen. But for a lifted LC250 running larger tires, this combination makes a lot of sense to me: stronger CVs with a more robust inner-joint design, improved CV angles, additional differential-to-oil-pan clearance, and reduced differential movement.
You'll also need to order two axle nuts, the Tacoma and LC use the same nuts and they are staked instead of Pinned. They are a one time use item.
If you are like me and don't inspect your boots before signing for the FedEx delivery then you might need this kit as well...
After my original install i noticed a tiny snake bite on my driver side outer CV boot...
"make sure you inspect your boots before you sign for your package"! I can't say for sure but i believe this happened in shipping. I needed to reboot which also required these special tools:
No real difference in drive feel, just piece of mind.
Didn't do a great job documenting with pics, but here are a few randoms:
Stock CVs
TRD CVs
Installed with pinched boot, and leaking.
Teardown for new boot kit
New boot installed: Unsure if it was necessary but i marked all the joints and axles with a yellow paint pen so i could assemble it in the same indexing as factory.
Finished product, Driver side.
I'll keep updating as i rack up miles incase i see a shift in MPG or any other changes.
Cheers!
R
I wanted to make a post since there isn't a ton of information out there about this upgrade and i personally have searched the internet for answers like the list below:
- Are these a direct plug and play?
- Yes they are!
- What exact parts are needed?
- Is the axle nut reusable?
- No
- What special tools will i need?
- 35mm Impact Socket
- Oil Syringe
- 1/2" Torque wrench capable of 251 ft/lbs
- What are the torque specs?
- Front Axle Shaft Nut 251 ft/lbs
- Steering Knuckle x Front Lover Ball Joint 221 ft/lbs
- Front Diff Drain 65nm
- Icon specs this at 74ft/lbs ??
- Front Diff Fill 40 NM
- Capacity 1.29 QTS
- Why upgrade?
My theory is that when the CV joint fails, the front differential can jolt upward and contact the upper oil pan. There is very little clearance between the differential and oil pan, and the factory differential mounts use rubber bushings that allow some movement.
In an effort to reduce the chances of this happening, I addressed both the CV itself and the differential:
1. ICON differential drop
A diff drop has a few potential benefits on a lifted LC250. Most importantly, lowering the differential improves the CV axle operating angle created by the lift. Reducing that angle should reduce stress on the CV joints and potentially reduce the likelihood of failure in the first place.
It also creates additional clearance between the front differential and upper oil pan. If a CV does fail and causes the differential to move violently, that additional space may reduce the chance of the differential contacting and cracking the oil pan.
The ICON diff drop also replaces the factory rubber differential bushings with polyurethane bushings. The stiffer polyurethane should reduce differential movement under load, adding another layer of protection.
So the diff drop potentially addresses the problem three ways: better CV angles, more oil-pan clearance, and less differential movement.
2. Tacoma TRD Pro/Trailhunter CV axles
The Tacoma CVs use a different inner-joint design than the factory LC250 axles. The LC250 uses a tripod-style inner joint, which appears to be the weak point in the failures that have been reported. The Tacoma TRD Pro/Trailhunter axle uses a more robust inner-joint design rather than the LC250-style tripod arrangement.
So the Tacoma CV swap isn't simply replacing the LC250 axle with another Toyota CV. You're upgrading to a different and seemingly stronger inner-joint design, while the diff drop puts that joint at a more favorable operating angle.
One thing worth knowing if you plan to order the Tacoma CVs: you'll need a Tacoma TRD Pro or Trailhunter VIN. Apparently Toyota has flagged these parts and requires a qualifying VIN, presumably to keep replacement inventory available for the vehicles they were originally intended for.
Obviously, none of this guarantees that a CV failure—or resulting damage—can't happen. But for a lifted LC250 running larger tires, this combination makes a lot of sense to me: stronger CVs with a more robust inner-joint design, improved CV angles, additional differential-to-oil-pan clearance, and reduced differential movement.
| 43410-AK020 | Axle Assembly | $414.22 | 1 | $414.22 |
| 43420-AK020 | Axle Assembly | $402.74 | 1 | $402.74 |
You'll also need to order two axle nuts, the Tacoma and LC use the same nuts and they are staked instead of Pinned. They are a one time use item.
| 90177-A0023 | Axle Nut | $5.17 | 1 | $5.17 |
If you are like me and don't inspect your boots before signing for the FedEx delivery then you might need this kit as well...
| 04427-0C051 | Boot Kit | $54.25 | 1 | $54.25 |
After my original install i noticed a tiny snake bite on my driver side outer CV boot...
"make sure you inspect your boots before you sign for your package"! I can't say for sure but i believe this happened in shipping. I needed to reboot which also required these special tools:No real difference in drive feel, just piece of mind.
Didn't do a great job documenting with pics, but here are a few randoms:
Stock CVs
TRD CVs
Installed with pinched boot, and leaking.
Teardown for new boot kit
New boot installed: Unsure if it was necessary but i marked all the joints and axles with a yellow paint pen so i could assemble it in the same indexing as factory.
Finished product, Driver side.
I'll keep updating as i rack up miles incase i see a shift in MPG or any other changes.
Cheers!
R
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