Rattle in driver's B pillar (2024 LC)

[EOD Guy]

The Stealers are comical, I'm not quite sure what part of the warranty would be voided by removing the striker for a look see. Even if you were to remove it, weld it on the back side or place a shim under it or whatever it takes, the only thing even remotely affected would be the electric lock mechanism. The body shop angle would be for them to adjust the striker.

In my way of thinking, if the striker is solid (no point in welding the back side) and it rattles, whether you adjust it or the body shop adjusts it, it has to be adjusted and in no way would that void any part of the warranty.

 

[Slippers]

The door striker usually sets the door tension via the weather stripping, and is adjustable by design. I don’t know about the LC250 specifically, but normally the backer plate that the screws thread into floats, and the holes through the door jamb are oblong or slots. I have adjusted multiple doors over the years by loosening the striker screws, tapping the striker with a mallet, and retightening.

This is from a Tacoma. You can see the backer plate can shift around a bit.

If you hear the striker rattling on bumps there may not be enough door tension on the weatherstripping.

It’s a very easy adjustment to make but I’d first check how flush your door appears when closed. You don’t want to chase a striker adjustment if the door is already nicely flush.

 

[EOD Guy]

My guess, from looking at your video, the "U" shaped striker is press fit into the mounting plate (like a "U" shaped rivet) and the press fit junction has loosened up. I'm thinking if that's the case, a couple of heavy tack welds on the back side would solve the problem. I don't think it's a case of loose mounting bolts.

 

[Slippers]

That’s a good point. First see if the striker itself is wobbling. Otherwise it’s probably the latch mechanism in the door moving on the striker when you hit bumps.

 

[DudewithaLC]

I've yet to try this latest revelation, but in addition to the rattling I'm getting like others on here, when it's really cold out I get a cracking sound at the B-pillar. I narrowed it down to the driver's side front window seal slipping from the window on bumps so now I just need to find the right silicone lubricant I can put on there with a q-tip or something. It doesn't make the sound when the window is down a bit (not a long term solution when it's minus 30 C outside).

It's warming up so I probably won't hear it till next winter again, but might as well prep.

 

[Slippers]

I've yet to try this latest revelation, but in addition to the rattling I'm getting like others on here, when it's really cold out I get a cracking sound at the B-pillar. I narrowed it down to the driver's side front window seal slipping from the window on bumps so now I just need to find the right silicone lubricant I can put on there with a q-tip or something. It doesn't make the sound when the window is down a bit (not a long term solution when it's minus 30 C outside).

It's warming up so I probably won't hear it till next winter again, but might as well prep.

Honda shin etsu grease is a great solution for this.

 

[jesterlabs]

Thanks, everyone. Thing is, I am a pretty hands-on type of guy. I have done the legwork for them since I previously brought it in to have them find out the cause, and they could not... this seems so silly to me that at least attempting to adjust the striker would not be something the manager at the dealership would try before escalating. I even bought a torx set, thinking I could give it a shot, but instead I have to wait for some corporate dude to show up and assess this next Thursday. I mean, the guy at the dealership straight out said I can not reassure you this will be fixed and this is now in the hands of Toyota, which did not leave me with much confidence. The car has only 6k miles. But hey maybe there is more than just a striker adjustment and it becomes more of a liability for them than anything else.

 

[EOD Guy]

I just checked mine and no joy........ striker is tight and it sounds like mine is coming from the suspension link bars, as it only pops when applying the brakes, accelerating from a stop or going over speed bumps. Future me will probably employ a floor jack and see if I can narrow it down.

 

[ultane]

Hello everyone, this is my issue, the one on my LC 250 driver side rattles and the vibration comes through the cabin (B-Pillar) resulting in a metallic vibration/sound on every little bump on the road. Toyota is getting corporate involved since the dealership doesn't want to make any decisions on resolution.

Welcome to the asylum.

Now I need to go check Miss Daisy’s striker..

 

[wpage]

Had a rattle from my hitch...
Put a U type bracket to settle that sound.

 

[EOD Guy]

Had a rattle from my hitch...
Put a U type bracket to settle that sound.

None of my business and not trying to offend ....... but if you have resources, you might consider converting your hitch insert from a smooth bore pin into a threaded pin system. When I built my ebike carrier, I was dissatisfied when the slop and rattling with the smooth pin system. So, I made a new "screw in" lock pin, which eliminates the receiver slop.

I drilled out the stock hitch insert's 5/8" lock pin holes to 1". I used some 1" round stock to make some slugs and drilled, tapped (to 5/8") and welded the slugs into the hitch insert tube.

I purchased a smooth locking hitch pin and used the pin portion as a pattern. I used a 5/8" grade 8 bolt, used a tap & die to make the threaded portion with enough threads to thread all the way through the receiver insert. When machining the New Grade 8 bolt. I cut the head off, machined the lock ball grove into the bolt and welded a grade 8 nut onto the threaded end. How it works......... thread the new pin into the hitch and tighten just a tad past tight, put on the quick retainer cap/keeper. Ended up with a superior, non-rattling, tight and secure receiver hitch. It was a lot of work, but It's so tidy, I made a normal ball receiver insert as well. In the picture below the L/H portion of the picture you can see the modified 5/8" bolt/pin painted Red (yellow circle). The other red cap, is a quick release keeper for the smooth bore (not modified pin for the tilting mech. You press the center portion, it releases the locking balls and allows the smooth pin to be removed (no need for a lock or screw).

The one for the LC's receiver was a bit trickier, as the OEM system is a tube within a tube and I made a bushing to make up the outer tube's larger diameter hole.

 

[ultane]

Had a rattle from my hitch...
Put a U type bracket to settle that sound.

Huh?

 

[wpage]

Huh?

https://aax-events-cell01-cf.us-east.ono.axp.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/RGBS4D4_ot9mT_zRDocy5BEAAAGdJAEthgEAAAH0AQBvbm9fdHhuX2JpZDMgICBvbm9fdHhuX2ltcDIgICBgv5_B/clv1c_ek-wBQH2bcba3lYJZzuQgY-ugwzCfPusOZ7TSsVAV70Rq61KUzApDagY8L7e7GntN9i5SHt9WrU0hO0EtiWBRV8pYGk7wDmzIKVjaOfuG7Q6hRKSJMTaLC7_5tXcdl5JUfjjgaJlPPH0f9F-edZ-9sWPwNyfmD0q-YDr51OKrEafvxYPAkJz1b-btpDJhqGi3c-ZDsuJmw3-wO7NhwSRZk8Ljc9bOI_Q3oD6SjMtl9OGnZNIFiTrSv9gMWJ31mjinz0cAPT_ru9DThwRrEbJ6t7y83gBVTNl1h4MqAxH0rCzChKU2e3vutAT20wzR4TGCwvsj9Nx68vD_s4XRlzC8UqUhj7RdfPEJVwG42xx0gHmrPEplwhoVJZfuNIr3TKvfN_Ed51uknyku5BKzJsLIDTsJ04XJB4MS_P2zxJDSbrx3kBb1ut6sCsxRaY9d7cvgtWJ8iNANtJ3gx4yxyRsqNFy4ALQf9FNM30wVfR4b5L2v2GMFj3H6e7Jg6yTgOC1B6ev4CBLX6VfxR9-584CbDGZbfDQLa70tGLiAsbISepE-uL7ojMrs7JEQ_U_VhLnNZ1lU2ILcqVJxl9-rZ4_on4AWZ6qc3wMcIlgIWdu6ezyFHfSWYrzMx-3ahhtOYQw6kDTAk4-x_4PffGpQmRsNJy2-k4RYbvRbmbgilE1wVvHKEA0YiymjBERBk9xO8RBBMVgMxs8oITZaaeG7Gp5GnVuxAN09ZTFxCU8S3MhQovaiG0KoTFMThamecyG2Syvsq8RlhKlHYCFJUH70_5N7Wpt-e80YgayDaV2v8qA2LprbrRsE6Tt-LN8mt9V8Bx6NyvVNBY_305KWHGPtc0cu9ejDSHFiliU48dHci7bAy-sUGpKHsCcPcBgplUIQlYEpdJzBvPPeOAIR_yZoh_C8laNrdQelnaji0HAfQWLpbFdgY7Qe0g3XnVDR65LizLrZwMsDclWKZfMEYHtH8YWMh10A5P-SN-y0NJRkmtDxovKfhgB2V5q-PiigvoEFSyOSJ3xyFKNSIGOtf2CbEzR2KCFvHrL8y5QljrjBrGk5wpfG2gbaUimd2TjpCpHVC3JXOL4KhL-_RCQlCi-vwD8Pd3jBr8dFCVA0Z-Bx6oNRy6rvkGgwxlk4oe4KWRHDrLwmgqW3F3-9_8fR5REQFix71LyMDlPSZJNLJyIhAMXYIsa_SJ-xwZ--kQEocnVoRBzIUZFFn5JAgp2BMVOJbJnCpcSzydzY3NfYqPSW941LgyP4TuI98BbLuJzn_HKmeoRg12cYUa1oTcHZVvx3scCVkpeDVdG9iXN5sjcz3rn1QpSQfpPMyuL-h_Hm4_XDIp8Uty74nAKs3RGb6rKvcwJGi24xSIruYVVQnSY0bbYf1f3XX5kcHQ2lWYIHJRfilQCGo39N96WWu4gIdaj4U-Eh5D8MdLXLmlg-k66QULucSbN63t-578Pp6L5myBjoYwRftmWVl2tKub3RB7oI7nMhHH8umtLgu1c/https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/71E7B696-B54D-4718-A051-79F139130DB9

 

[ultane]

https://aax-events-cell01-cf.us-east.ono.axp.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/RGBS4D4_ot9mT_zRDocy5BEAAAGdJAEthgEAAAH0AQBvbm9fdHhuX2JpZDMgICBvbm9fdHhuX2ltcDIgICBgv5_B/clv1c_ek-wBQH2bcba3lYJZzuQgY-ugwzCfPusOZ7TSsVAV70Rq61KUzApDagY8L7e7GntN9i5SHt9WrU0hO0EtiWBRV8pYGk7wDmzIKVjaOfuG7Q6hRKSJMTaLC7_5tXcdl5JUfjjgaJlPPH0f9F-edZ-9sWPwNyfmD0q-YDr51OKrEafvxYPAkJz1b-btpDJhqGi3c-ZDsuJmw3-wO7NhwSRZk8Ljc9bOI_Q3oD6SjMtl9OGnZNIFiTrSv9gMWJ31mjinz0cAPT_ru9DThwRrEbJ6t7y83gBVTNl1h4MqAxH0rCzChKU2e3vutAT20wzR4TGCwvsj9Nx68vD_s4XRlzC8UqUhj7RdfPEJVwG42xx0gHmrPEplwhoVJZfuNIr3TKvfN_Ed51uknyku5BKzJsLIDTsJ04XJB4MS_P2zxJDSbrx3kBb1ut6sCsxRaY9d7cvgtWJ8iNANtJ3gx4yxyRsqNFy4ALQf9FNM30wVfR4b5L2v2GMFj3H6e7Jg6yTgOC1B6ev4CBLX6VfxR9-584CbDGZbfDQLa70tGLiAsbISepE-uL7ojMrs7JEQ_U_VhLnNZ1lU2ILcqVJxl9-rZ4_on4AWZ6qc3wMcIlgIWdu6ezyFHfSWYrzMx-3ahhtOYQw6kDTAk4-x_4PffGpQmRsNJy2-k4RYbvRbmbgilE1wVvHKEA0YiymjBERBk9xO8RBBMVgMxs8oITZaaeG7Gp5GnVuxAN09ZTFxCU8S3MhQovaiG0KoTFMThamecyG2Syvsq8RlhKlHYCFJUH70_5N7Wpt-e80YgayDaV2v8qA2LprbrRsE6Tt-LN8mt9V8Bx6NyvVNBY_305KWHGPtc0cu9ejDSHFiliU48dHci7bAy-sUGpKHsCcPcBgplUIQlYEpdJzBvPPeOAIR_yZoh_C8laNrdQelnaji0HAfQWLpbFdgY7Qe0g3XnVDR65LizLrZwMsDclWKZfMEYHtH8YWMh10A5P-SN-y0NJRkmtDxovKfhgB2V5q-PiigvoEFSyOSJ3xyFKNSIGOtf2CbEzR2KCFvHrL8y5QljrjBrGk5wpfG2gbaUimd2TjpCpHVC3JXOL4KhL-_RCQlCi-vwD8Pd3jBr8dFCVA0Z-Bx6oNRy6rvkGgwxlk4oe4KWRHDrLwmgqW3F3-9_8fR5REQFix71LyMDlPSZJNLJyIhAMXYIsa_SJ-xwZ--kQEocnVoRBzIUZFFn5JAgp2BMVOJbJnCpcSzydzY3NfYqPSW941LgyP4TuI98BbLuJzn_HKmeoRg12cYUa1oTcHZVvx3scCVkpeDVdG9iXN5sjcz3rn1QpSQfpPMyuL-h_Hm4_XDIp8Uty74nAKs3RGb6rKvcwJGi24xSIruYVVQnSY0bbYf1f3XX5kcHQ2lWYIHJRfilQCGo39N96WWu4gIdaj4U-Eh5D8MdLXLmlg-k66QULucSbN63t-578Pp6L5myBjoYwRftmWVl2tKub3RB7oI7nMhHH8umtLgu1c/https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/71E7B696-B54D-4718-A051-79F139130DB9

It won’t load…

 

[EOD Guy]

It won’t load…

It's an Amazon link.

Rhino USA, Inc.

 

[ultane]

It's an Amazon link.

Rhino USA, Inc.

Thanks. That worked just fine.

 

[wpage]

Amazon.com

 

[ultane]

Amazon.com

Thanks! That worked too!

 

[MikeLC007]

The B-pillar rattle is finally gone! My dealer (two different Toyota dealerships) would not fix it. I finally removed the B-pillar cover, tapped-welded the sites (red dashes), and added felt behind the seatbelt assembly attachment. I then covered the area with sound-deadening sheets. So far so good. Everything else (door striker, door card, mirror, grab handles, etc. we’re not the source). Toyota has yet to create a TSB for it. On a side note, SIX Toyota N. America executives “retired” (forced out) in 2025 and their roles included VP Quality, Senior manufacturing, VP manufacturing, Chief technology, and so on. Toyota is aware of its shortcomings and this isn’t a good look. Hopefully, they fix other members' rattles and create a TSB soon.

Hi, do you know where I can find the instructions for removing the B-Pillar, I am searching for a leak from my roof rack and would like to remove the lower and upper trim.

Thnaks!

Mike

 

[FirstEditionLC2024]

Hi, do you know where I can find the instructions for removing the B-Pillar, I am searching for a leak from my roof rack and would like to remove the lower and upper trim.

Thnaks!

Mike

I didn't follow any instructions. I'm used to removing trim installing speaker wires and sound deadening material over the years. Lower B panel requires removal of seatbelt anchor bolt. Once removed you can slowly pry off the lower and upper panel with trim removal tools. All of the are simple retention pins. .