Rattle in driver's B pillar (2024 LC)

[MikeLC007]

thank you

 

[hilotoyo]

Hi, do you know where I can find the instructions for removing the B-Pillar, I am searching for a leak from my roof rack and would like to remove the lower and upper trim.

Thnaks!

Mike

Hi, I was wondering which roof rack you have installed? And did you happen to use RTV to fill the gap between the plastic mounting points? Sorry to hear your dealing with water ingress issues.

 

[MikeLC007]

Hi, I was wondering which roof rack you have installed? And did you happen to use RTV to fill the gap between the plastic mounting points? Sorry to hear your dealing with water ingress issues.

I installed the OEM roof rails with gaskets and had a leak on the driver side. I then took it off and used RTV allover and still found droplets of moisture under the plastic drivers door floor trim panel. Not sure if it was condensation from humidity or still a leak. I figured I would rather remove the pillar trim then take the roof rail off again.
Mike

 

[Mopper]

None of my business and not trying to offend ....... but if you have resources, you might consider converting your hitch insert from a smooth bore pin into a threaded pin system. When I built my ebike carrier, I was dissatisfied when the slop and rattling with the smooth pin system. So, I made a new "screw in" lock pin, which eliminates the receiver slop.

I drilled out the stock hitch insert's 5/8" lock pin holes to 1". I used some 1" round stock to make some slugs and drilled, tapped (to 5/8") and welded the slugs into the hitch insert tube.

I purchased a smooth locking hitch pin and used the pin portion as a pattern. I used a 5/8" grade 8 bolt, used a tap & die to make the threaded portion with enough threads to thread all the way through the receiver insert. When machining the New Grade 8 bolt. I cut the head off, machined the lock ball grove into the bolt and welded a grade 8 nut onto the threaded end. How it works......... thread the new pin into the hitch and tighten just a tad past tight, put on the quick retainer cap/keeper. Ended up with a superior, non-rattling, tight and secure receiver hitch. It was a lot of work, but It's so tidy, I made a normal ball receiver insert as well. In the picture below the L/H portion of the picture you can see the modified 5/8" bolt/pin painted Red (yellow circle). The other red cap, is a quick release keeper for the smooth bore (not modified pin for the tilting mech. You press the center portion, it releases the locking balls and allows the smooth pin to be removed (no need for a lock or screw).

The one for the LC's receiver was a bit trickier, as the OEM system is a tube within a tube and I made a bushing to make up the outer tube's larger diameter hole.

View attachment 62914

Wave washers?

 

[ultane]

Hi, I was wondering which roof rack you have installed? And did you happen to use RTV to fill the gap between the plastic mounting points? Sorry to hear your dealing with water ingress issues.

Welcome to the asylum.

 

[FLMan407]

Hello everyone, this is my issue, the one on my LC 250 driver side rattles and the vibration comes through the cabin (B-Pillar) resulting in a metallic vibration/sound on every little bump on the road. Toyota is getting corporate involved since the dealership doesn't want to make any decisions on resolution.

Yep just chiming in to say this is spot on what's going on with my 2025. the Striker click I can replicate on both driver and passenger. I can also stop it by pushing on the door when I'm over the roads that typically cause this. It drives me nuts since we have brick roads in some parts and this is where it gets extra clicky. Also noticed that when it's really hot out (Florida) it seems happen less.

 

[ultane]

Yep just chiming in to say this is spot on what's going on with my 2025. the Striker click I can replicate on both driver and passenger. I can also stop it by pushing on the door when I'm over the roads that typically cause this. It drives me nuts since we have brick roads in some parts and this is where it gets extra clicky. Also noticed that when it's really hot out (Florida) it seems happen less.

Welcome to the asylum.

 

[FirstEditionLC2024]

I turned in my 24’ First Edition. I love the LC so much I went and got a new 26’ in Underground. Swapped out the tires for Nitto Ridge Grapplers. So far no rattles. Surely after two years manufacturing they adjusted some of the manufacturing processes. Fingers crossed.

 

[FLMan407]

Yep just chiming in to say this is spot on what's going on with my 2025. the Striker click I can replicate on both driver and passenger. I can also stop it by pushing on the door when I'm over the roads that typically cause this. It drives me nuts since we have brick roads in some parts and this is where it gets extra clicky. Also noticed that when it's really hot out (Florida) it seems happen less.

Replying to my own thread. Thanks to FirstEditionLC2024 for clarification on some stuff they did. Today got the best of me with the clickity click so I pulled out the diagram of how to remove the bpillar trim and decided to finally investigate. It's stupid simple to get in. Pull up the front and rear sill trim slightly, push the seat all the way up, unbolt the seat belt from the base (thanks all I put a clamp on it so it didn't retract all the way in, pry tool at the top of the lower trim till it comes out then I pulled up and out. Took 5 minutes tops. I confirmed by wiggling the striker back and forth with some force that this was my issue in my truck. I was able to confirm that if I put a bit of pressure on one of the welds it totally went silent. I broke out my brass punches and got to work specifically around that weld. I tapped all around the weld and tested till finally it went silent when I tried to test the striker. I buttoned it up and took a spin down the roads where I noticed it most and as of right now, happy to say I could drive in silence with no radio on and no annoying metal clicking. Uploading a pic to show the weld I went to work on. You can see where the back of the striker area is (see the two bolts) is apart of the metal where that weld is. I'll report back if it comes back. I may throw in some noise insulating sheets in the striker area for good measure of this holds up long term. It's stupid simple to get in there. I'm not sure if this is everyones issue but I can tell you that the striker sound went all through that piller right in to your ear so it sounded like it could be anywhere from the roof to the floor untill I isolated it. Hopefully this helps some of you guys.