@TheMightyGoose - thank you so much! Checking out the Yakima kit now. That looks ideal. Beats spending $200+ for side Molle panels, and I cannot really find any that fit the OEM rack anyway.
Photo Thread: Land Cruiser Off Road!
- Thread starter RideWithYanu
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It worked out very well. I had to remove the crossbar to slide the mount into the slot. I think it was a T25 bolt so you’ll need that bit. But it was easy.
Yeah. And, unlike the molle panel, this is super easy to pop off when you get home.
Yes agreed. That was my thought as well. Not sure I would want the Molle panel on most of the time.
Last question - there was some discussion on here about how full to fill rotopax with gasoline. The website FAQ states to either fill all the way or leave it empty. It would seem not filling all the way up (maybe 90% filled) would allow for some expansion of fumes, and would be best. Maybe not. All of this is more important to me if I am going to have this on top of my roof.
Do you have any clarity on this?
Last question - there was some discussion on here about how full to fill rotopax with gasoline. The website FAQ states to either fill all the way or leave it empty. It would seem not filling all the way up (maybe 90% filled) would allow for some expansion of fumes, and would be best. Maybe not. All of this is more important to me if I am going to have this on top of my roof.
Do you have any clarity on this?
The recommendation is correct. You want it completely full or completely empty. If you filled it 90%, that provides too much air space for vapors to create, which will cause expansion and pressure. Keeping it as full as possible doesn't give the vapors anywhere to form. Also, as soon as we're back to the main highway, I fill the LC gas tank with whatever I have in the Rotopax. That way it minimizes the amount of time I have gas in there, and reduces any chance of problems. People complain endlessly about the size of the tank, but we've never come close to worrying. Just plan ahead if you know you have a long stretch of highway and get gas accordingly. Good chance to stretch your legs anyway.
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- Thread starter
- #46
Exactly my experience. Gas tank is small, but it’s an easy problem to get around.
The big oil industry in the USA has ensured they'll never miss an opportunity to take our $. If you're overloading in other countries, or taking the long highway to Alaska, I can see why it might be an issue. But here in the lower 48 of the USA?
My 1999 4Runner had @ 265-300 mile range. I never once ran out of gas in the 21 years I owned it. And we went a lot of places together.
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It's amazing how much money we are willing to spend just to play like kids again. That's a great shot of a great day!
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- #51
Wow. A true winter wonderland. Looks like you chose the right tires
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- #53
They are pretty great, but I really have to pull the trigger on some proper snow tires. Still far too much lateral sliding with these, and that’s no fun on shelf roads.
do you have a short list?
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- #55
Man I get stuck almost every time even with 3PMSF tires! I end up pushing too far, honestly.
I’ve used Cooper Discoverers before on a more road-focused vehicle (VW Atlas), worked great, and this winter I’m really thinking of trying a 35” Nokkian Hakkapeliitta (studless). I’m just worried about how much they may rub on my stock suspension though, and I’m really trying to hold out on any suspension mods as much as possible (the stock is so nice). What are your front-runners?
Good information and I think some confusion on here about this. One person had a Rotopax bust open on top of his truck.
Keep it full and put it into your tank as soon as you are back on road with access to fuel sources - the way to go. thank you!
I'm shopping for some generic ATs with 3pmsf rating. I'm looking forward to downsize wheels to 17" and some ~34" C/D load tire options (34X10.50 / LT285 /75 R17). There are no many options in this size load range. My top pick would be KO3s (hello hype train), but from what I can see there are only Falken Wildpeaks A/T4W (somewhat new, but way too heavy at 68lb), Toyo Open Country A/T III - 55lb (somewhat old), KO2 - 57lb (also somewhat old). KO3 in this size are only E load at 63lb
.I think I don't really need E-loads (stock SLs took me further than I've ever thought I'd go, I don't want to put too much extra stress on drive train and suspension, I don't plan to install steel bumpers, fridges, batteries, shelf system, roof tents and other jazz that would push tires load capacity, I also don't plan on doing some technical rock climbing). I'm considering the upgrade only for more piece of mind when wheeling off-road (higher load rating -> higher plies -> lower chance of puncture; more diameter and smaller rim -> more rubber -> hopefully lower chance of puncture) and hopefully better snow performance
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- Thread starter
- #58
Although my e-load A/Ts do give me a lot of comfort on the sharp rocks, I’m definitely going to try a lower rating for my next set - they are stupid heavy.
I also want wheels that are a bit narrower with higher offset, but I love the bead grip and don’t care to shell out for a new set of wheels.
I also want wheels that are a bit narrower with higher offset, but I love the bead grip and don’t care to shell out for a new set of wheels.
Have you happened to check out the 35/10.5r17 Toyo R/T trail?
The stated diameter is 34.5” x 10.6” and it’s listed as a 56lbs C-load.
I’m thinking this may be the max size we can squeeze in the stock suspension w/out rubs.
The stated diameter is 34.5” x 10.6” and it’s listed as a 56lbs C-load.
I’m thinking this may be the max size we can squeeze in the stock suspension w/out rubs.
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- #60
Haven’t tried those, but they offer about 3/4” more ground clearance than my 33” Mickey Thompsons provide! I’m hunting for a snow tire next though.
