Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

Hard to say right now. If I follow my typical maintenance cycle, it'll be similar to yours. 1K/5K/5K for engine oil and filter. 15K/30K/30K for diff drain and fill. 30K for transfer case and trans drain and fill, and brake fluid flush. 100K for coolant flush.
 
That sounds about right , my biggest question is about diff and transfer case first change if both are simple plug drains and fills then I will do both at 1000k service . If removing cover plates then 30k miles , transmission 60k miles
 
Rear diff for sure just uses drain/fill plugs. No cover. I'm not sure about the transfer case, though. I'd be surprised if it's anything more than a plug.
 
novice question here (this will actually be my first personal oil change) but the manual says 5.9 quartz, would using a full 6 quartz be okay? I guess I could try and measure out the final one too if not…
 
I just geeked out watching YouTube videos by the Motor Oil Geek. I think I am going to do one at 500, then 1,000, then 2,000, then 3,000, then 5,000 miles.
 
novice question here (this will actually be my first personal oil change) but the manual says 5.9 quartz, would using a full 6 quartz be okay? I guess I could try and measure out the final one too if not…
I would save the 100 ml to add if your oil level drops between changes.
 
I think the motor geek is a bit over cautious , I believe he sell oil and does testing as well
 
novice question here (this will actually be my first personal oil change) but the manual says 5.9 quartz, would using a full 6 quartz be okay? I guess I could try and measure out the final one too if not…
The right way to do it is to pour in the recommended fill amount, and check the dipstick before and after starting. If it is between the low and high level marks you are okay. After you've done that once you will know if you can just put in the extra next time.

Me personally I'd pour in 6 quarts then check to make sure that it isn't way too much (spoiler: it won't be).
 
novice question here (this will actually be my first personal oil change) but the manual says 5.9 quartz, would using a full 6 quartz be okay? I guess I could try and measure out the final one too if not…
Regardless of what anyone says......... put in 5, 1/2 qts, start the engine and look under the truck to see if you have any leaks (double gasketing the oil filter, you will have a leak) let it run for a few minutes, shut it down, let it sit for a few minutes then pull the dip stick and check the oil. Add oil until you reach the required mark on the dipstick. Just over full won't hurt anything, but a lot over full could result in seals being blown out. Once you've done it a few times, you'll be able to gage how much to leave in the bottle....... I have a small machine shop so all the left over oil goes into a container that I use to lubricate cutting tools.
 
Regardless of what anyone says......... put in 5, 1/2 qts, start the engine and look under the truck to see if you have any leaks (double gasketing the oil filter, you will have a leak) let it run for a few minutes, shut it down, let it sit for a few minutes then pull the dip stick and check the oil. Add oil until you reach the required mark on the dipstick. Just over full won't hurt anything, but a lot over full could result in seals being blown out. Once you've done it a few times, you'll be able to gage how much to leave in the bottle....... I have a small machine shop so all the left over oil goes into a container that I use to lubricate cutting tools.
Appreciate this input I didn’t know about the “double gasket” issue but got worried when I googled it. Here is a pic of the oil filter I removed with the gasket still along the lining (I believe) - lmk if that doesn’t look right!
 

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Appreciate this input I didn’t know about the “double gasket” issue but got worried when I googled it. Here is a pic of the oil filter I removed with the gasket still along the lining (I believe) - lmk if that doesn’t look right!
Thats the gasket, pretty easy to tell...... If the rubber gasket doesn't come off with the old filter, the old filter will have a very distinct clean grove (if you still have the old filter go ahead and pop off the old gasket so you'll know what to look for). Doesn't means it's stuck to the engine filter mount, but probably. You should ALWAYS use a clean rag or paper towel and wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine, just before you screw on a new filter and if the old gasket it on there, it'll come off easily. That surface should look shiny to the naked eye.
 
Thats the gasket, pretty easy to tell...... If the rubber gasket doesn't come off with the old filter, the old filter will have a very distinct clean grove (if you still have the old filter go ahead and pop off the old gasket so you'll know what to look for). Doesn't means it's stuck to the engine filter mount, but probably. You should ALWAYS use a clean rag or paper towel and wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine, just before you screw on a new filter and if the old gasket it on there, it'll come off easily. That surface should look shiny to the naked eye.
Awesome - really appreciate the insight. After your first comment I frantically searched the house for that old filter, even dug through the trash bins a bit…
 
Any one planning on an early oil change, like the oil geek guy recommends?
 
Any one planning on an early oil change, like the oil geek guy recommends?

Yep. Given the V6TT failures, which according to Toyota are from machining debris, I'm going to do an early change and switch to a more aggressive oil filter (Purolator Boss), and use the newest oil to hit the market (Valvoline Restore and Protect). It's a hard working turbo 4 pushing a lot of weight against a lot of air resistance. Plus we tow a boat. Early oil changes will be the norm for us.
 
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