This. I believe the recommended interval is designed to make the engine last until 60,000 miles and minimize cost to Toyota for paid oil changes. The bottom line, unfortunately, is what drives most companies these days. I want mine to last longer.
First oil change at 12 miles.
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It's actually not wise to do your first oil change before the break-in period's over The metallicness in the oil is normal and helps the break-in process
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- #23
Source for that info?
tons of engine builders will tell you otherwise.
also- what's the official break in period? is it 5k? 10K?
less particulate in your lubrication system of an engine is always better. Remember- there's still some particulate in there, I didn't remove it all with 2 oil changes. It's still being created.
So at 12 miles, I would say you did the engine a disservice. Give it time to circulate the oil through the filter to collect the metal fragments. I plan on getting my first oil change at 5k. It will be ok
Every bit of oil goes through the filter before going to the rest of the engine. The oil jets, piston, VVT, main journals, crankshaft, conrod, cam journals, fuel pump, chain tensioner, balance shaft, turbo charger, lash adjusters, and vacuum pump are all lubricated/actuated with filtered oil.
The only time that it wouldn't be filtered would be when the filter bypass is triggered. The bypass is a fail safe (for something like a clogged filter) because unfiltered oil is better than no oil. Of course, the ECU is closely watching oil pressure at all times. It has an oil control valve to essentially dump oil pressure in low load conditions to reduce pumping losses. The ECU is setting that solenoid to a position and confirming through the oil pressure sensor that the pressure is changing accordingly. If your filter were clogged to the point that it is impacting oil pressure, a DTC would be set in the ECU and your dashboard would light up like a christmas tree.
The very experienced Toyota tec i had a good visit with Monday said the same, more often better, when new, don't be stupid, you know how much crap can be in there.
Why stop at doing just an oil change at 12 miles? The transmission fluid, differential/axle oil, and coolant are likely all full of machining fragments also. Might as well be thorough and protect the entire drivetrain, and not just the engine.
Yes very good point.
Diffs, tans/ xfer case full change out @ 1k.
Anywhere there is frictional wear. Coolant and brakes NBD.
The torsen is a very big dealio, they fail or get very noisy and worrisome.
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- #30
Hilarious.
you have no idea how many hours that engine has sat running and idling since leaving the factory, many times the cars are idled for long periods of time at the port to charge the batteries while PDI's are performed. This was clearly evidenced by the color of the oil, the fuel smell in the oil, and the ammt of visible particulate that drained out at the first oil change.
Particulate in the oil is not going to "help" break in anything, other than create more wear by taking out more bearing material as it circulates, bearings that already spec'd with bearing tolerances by the factory.
Particulate in your oil isn't going to benefit or help the oil jets, piston rings or piston walls, VVT, main journals, crankshaft, conrod, cam journals, fuel pump, chain tensioner, balance shaft, turbo charger, lash adjusters, and vacuum pump (copy & pasta'd from above) Dirty oil does not benefit these items whatsoever.
and The oil filter itself does not catch all the materials, down to 0 micron.
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- #31
These drain plugs typically have magnetic ends, and auto trans pans generally have magnets in the bottom which helps catch & filter out ferrous debris as they are circulated (in addition to a filter in the Auto transmission)
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- #32
Do you know this to be fact?
some engines do not circulate 100% of the oil thru the filter given the oil routing through the engine. sometimes a fraction of the oil gets filtered, to provide sufficient flow for the engine. Eventually, it all gets filtered..
do you know the exact oil flow path of theT24A-FTS 2.4-liter?
Yes. It's all listed out on the TIS. Costs $25/day to access.
toyota-club.net typically also has the information downloaded from the TIS, but the site hasn't worked for me in the past few days.
Are all of the metal parts in the transmission and drivetrain ferrous? I'm the assuming the iForce Max engine block and heads are aluminum for example.
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Ok. I’ve never
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- #37
not likely that all are ferrous. more likely that there's a mix of aluminum, brass, steel and various other alloys involved.
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- #38
A precautionary oil change, (easy & cheap to do) was both relaxing and enjoyable.
And given the leftover machining & "debris'' issue plaguing the 3.5 Turbo engines in the Tundra and GX550, (yes we all know, different engine)... it certainly couldn't hurt.
And given the leftover machining & "debris'' issue plaguing the 3.5 Turbo engines in the Tundra and GX550, (yes we all know, different engine)... it certainly couldn't hurt.
I did that today and was told that I was actually skipping my 5k and using up my 10k. Not just the oil change piece of the 10k. So now I only get 3 services: '10k' today, a 15k and a 20k. If I do another oil change at 10k (using my 20k service), then I'm done. Seems kinda cheap. Maybe I take her to my local mechanic for a 10k and 15k oil change to preserve the final 20k. Also was told $110 for the oil change which is ridiculous
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- #40
Filter: 5 bucks
Oil: ~ 30 bucks
15 - 20 minutes of your time.. easy
Oil: ~ 30 bucks
15 - 20 minutes of your time.. easy
