The Fumoto that I bought/installed had something that looked like a felt washer/spacer included in the package.
Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.
- Thread starter Teebo
- Start date
1/8th turn past hand tight, huh? Hope it’s enough.
Super easy, just tedious to prevent a mess. But fumoto 100%. Minimal mess this morning (all from not keeping the filter pointed up while pulling it out, even though i let it drain for a long time).
Thanks for everyone’s info and answers.
Thanks for everyone’s info and answers.
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- Moderator
- #464
These work well. You can bend/form them to just about any surface and they clean up well.
I did my oil change today. It’s not that bad. I had built a pit to help out. Hardest part for me was getting the skid plate back on. It got bent up pretty good when I got mired on a snowmobile trail this spring and now the bolt holes don’t line up well. I noticed the plastic plate also was cracked. I know I didn’t have to remove it for the oil change but I wanted to hose off the dirt under it. I may eventually upgrade skids. Greasing the shafts are pretty straightforward. It’s a bit of a pita without a lift but my buddy with the lift is kinda semi retired so I didn’t want to bother him.
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@NoMe cruiser I highly recommend flushing that Red grease out of anything you put it in with marine grease or similar. We extensively use that grease as assembly lubricant at work for hydraulic component assembly and it works great for that but it is terrible for use as a grease.
First time the grease is exposed to 90-100 degrees it becomes oil (liquifies) and it does not go back to being a grease. It will begin dripping from the zerks and anywhere else you put just from summer temps and no use.
Maybe Valvoline is different as we use Mobile 1 but I doubt it and always steer clear of red grease since seeing this over and over again at work, it would kill a bearing in no time.
First time the grease is exposed to 90-100 degrees it becomes oil (liquifies) and it does not go back to being a grease. It will begin dripping from the zerks and anywhere else you put just from summer temps and no use.
Maybe Valvoline is different as we use Mobile 1 but I doubt it and always steer clear of red grease since seeing this over and over again at work, it would kill a bearing in no time.
I’ll keep an eye on it, I think that’s what Toyota recommends NGLI-2. It’s been in the high ‘80s F and it hasn’t turned into oil, it’s not dripping in my garage.
After your post I obviously became concerned. I searched the internet and, yes it does appear that the mobil 1 grease tends to separate easily according to some people while the valvoline extreme red grease had better overall reviews. Considering I spent $70k on this vehicle my anxiety got the best of me so I decided to do my own experiment. Although it was only in the mid 70’s today… the attic of my garage still gets very warm. I hung my grease gun up there for half the day without a drop of grease running out of it in 100+ F degrees. I appreciate your advice but the valvoline extreme red grease checks all the boxes Toyota recommends for lubricating the propeller shafts. Lithium based/NGLI no.2.
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Sorry, sent you down a rabbit hole! The Valvoline has a way higher temperature threshold 600C vs 100C of the Mobile IIRC. Good know there's a good red grease out there!
OIl Change specs and things to remember when future me forgets them and am half way through the oil change:
*12mm socket for skid plates @ 21 ft/lbs. 4 bolts for engine skid that has toe (not tow) hooks in the front.
*14mm socket for drain plug @ 30 ft/lbs.
*Don't forget the crush washer and that the old one that will be stuck to the oil pan.
*.9 quarts is ~852ml.
*stuff old shop rag in back skid otherwise oil will drain from filter housing onto frame and drizzle into skid.
*date oil filter with paint pen to confirm dealer does them at 10k and 20k intervals.
*12mm socket for skid plates @ 21 ft/lbs. 4 bolts for engine skid that has toe (not tow) hooks in the front.
*14mm socket for drain plug @ 30 ft/lbs.
*Don't forget the crush washer and that the old one that will be stuck to the oil pan.
*.9 quarts is ~852ml.
*stuff old shop rag in back skid otherwise oil will drain from filter housing onto frame and drizzle into skid.
*date oil filter with paint pen to confirm dealer does them at 10k and 20k intervals.
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Dumb question alert… I see oil filter can be hand tight on like old days… do you need a oil wrench tool to get the factory oil filter off or just old man hand strength will get off???
how annoying is it to do the oil change with the victory skids?
- Moderator
- #474
IMO the spec calls for hand tight and I use the German variant of that "Good-N-Tight" or as tight as it will possibly get with my hand. Now if you have the "Kung Fu" grip you may be able to get it off with your bare hand.
The Funnel & Wrench sold on Amazon are must haves IMO. If you don't have a Toyota with a cartridge style filter (the LC isn't a cartridge type) you don't need the hose part in the picture. My Taco is a cartridge type, so I use it for both vehicles.
Save some cash a standard large neck oil quart bottle threads directly into the fill spout. Cut the bottom off and you have a free no spill funnel for filling with a cap to thread on afterwards on your free funnel.
I would suggest getting a wrench. If you can’t get it off by hand, you either change your oil without changing the filter or you drive a screwdriver through it which makes a big mess and these newer style filters are rather small. I also use the wrench to sinch it a bit more than hand tight.
I hate going back to store to get s in middle of 10 min job so will get one at AutoZone. Walmart did not have size… I did not buy $30 at Toyota ha…. After all the issues I have had with people doing simple maintenance in my families cars time to start doing the basic easy stuff!
Even doing the hand tightening as we always have, it seams that I can never get the dang things off, without a wrench. There is a great oil filter wrench somewhere on here, MotivXTools MX2320, which I bought from Bezoar.
EDIT: EOD Guy beat me to it…
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- Moderator
- #480
All oil wrenches are NOT created equal! In my oil wrench collection is every variant sold by Autozone, O'Rielys, Napa, Wal-Mart and one of the "Toyota" wrenches. A few chain style, a couple of strap style and a couple of plier types. All were supposed to be the answer to removing oil filters, the "Toyota" was by far the best, up to that point, but it wouldn't release the filter once the filter was removed from the vehicle and I usually had to beat the wrench off the filter. I needed a funnel, as cutting up an old oil bottle, while worked, was messy to store and I ended up throwing it away every time. So I bit the bullet and added the Amazon MotivXTools kit, I listed above. I was interested in the drip free aspect of the Cartridge drain hose.
It is "hands down" the BEST wrench I own! easy to install, easy to remove, the funnel is sturdy and stores in a 1 gal ziplock for semi-mess free storage. Yes it was spendy and I could have fought with the other wrenches, but I'm glad don't have to!
