Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.
- Thread starter Teebo
- Start date
I know.... I have several filters for my Subaru in my garage... I take them with me when I go to get the oil changed at my local family run shop! I'm to old and lazy to do my own now.... !!! So I have them use my filter and subtract the cost of their filter. Always get strange looks... but wanted the correct pressure valve on my oil filter for use with with the Turbo !
Anyway thought this information might apply to the Landcruiser Turbo Too?
Anyway thought this information might apply to the Landcruiser Turbo Too?
Not trying to
Not to be offensive..... that video has more to do with genuine OEM oil filters vs knock offs and spin on vs cartridges.
A spin on will not fit into a cartridge and visa versa. You can purchase incorrect filters that might cross thread or longer vs shorter (different vehicles but will physically thread on) The oil bypass is a thing but normally the bypass is in the housing/mount not the physical filter.
Point being if the parts counter sells it to you for the LC, all the LC engines are turbo charged....... so there's that.
Not to be offensive..... that video has more to do with genuine OEM oil filters vs knock offs and spin on vs cartridges.
A spin on will not fit into a cartridge and visa versa. You can purchase incorrect filters that might cross thread or longer vs shorter (different vehicles but will physically thread on) The oil bypass is a thing but normally the bypass is in the housing/mount not the physical filter.
Point being if the parts counter sells it to you for the LC, all the LC engines are turbo charged....... so there's that.
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Very interesting. These test endpoints suggest the Toyota filter is by some measures inferior. But It begs the question, if the filter is "bad" then why do Toyota engines last so long (engine longevity and performance being the meaningful endpoint). Perhaps filtering is not as important as people think. I've heard industry engineers state that the oil quality/specs and changing the oil at correct interval is much more important. Flow is also super important, hence the critical issue of having the proper bypass valve pressure for your vehicle. I'm sticking with OEM.
***These statements represent personal opinion and should not be used to guide the care of your vehicle. The poster is not a professional mechanic. As always, you should seek the advice of your mechanic before making decisions that may affect the life of your vehicle.
***These statements represent personal opinion and should not be used to guide the care of your vehicle. The poster is not a professional mechanic. As always, you should seek the advice of your mechanic before making decisions that may affect the life of your vehicle.
Agreed, flow is more important than filtration. Without proper flow, clean oil can't help. This is why the bypass function is such an important aspect of the filter. Changing oil at the correct intervals is the key.
Thank you for posting this. I didn't see this asked, but what weight oil were you using - Are there new specs? I'm Coming from an Eco-Diesel with quite stringent Oil Specs and will be doing my first change later this summer.
Changed the oil on mine today at 1,000 miles. Love how easy it was to access everything. However, it has been a bit since I’ve maintained my vehicles. I purchased the oil and filter directly from the Toyota dealership. The oil filter had a little nut in the box along with the filter. I thought it may go into the screw that the filter screwed into but it wasn’t the right size. The filter I took off didn’t have any sort of nut on it. So I just threaded the filter on and called it a day. Now I’m sitting here wondering if I should have done more investigation. Can anyone else chime in?
The washer is for the drain bolt. The old washer usually sticks to the oil pan and you probably screwed the bolt back onto it. No big deal, I did the same thing on mine.
The copper washer is a "use once" item. It is a crush washer, when you torque the drain plug to the proper torque, it crushes the copper washer and prevents leaks when everything heats up. It should be changed when ever the oil drain plug is loosened. I have reused them on occasion as I was too lazy to make another trip to the parts counter when there wasn't a new one in the filter box.
Pro tip: when you get the filter from the parts counter and the seal is broken on the box, open it in front of the guy/gal and check for the washer.......... they do not believe you when you tell them "there wasn't one in the box when I opened it". Don't ask how I know this......LOL
(Edit) The filter doesn't come with a new filter, but the dealer throws one in for free. I recently purchased a case of filters and asked about the crush washers.
Pro tip: when you get the filter from the parts counter and the seal is broken on the box, open it in front of the guy/gal and check for the washer.......... they do not believe you when you tell them "there wasn't one in the box when I opened it". Don't ask how I know this......LOL
(Edit) The filter doesn't come with a new filter, but the dealer throws one in for free. I recently purchased a case of filters and asked about the crush washers.
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100% agree with EOD Guy. Those first miles are all about properly seating the piston rings and achieving max compression. Before that happens the engine will experience more gas blowby than any other time in its useful life, meaning combusted gases mix with the oil. Nothing to worry about.
What's the size / thread pitch of the drain plug?
I'd want to get a magnetic drain plug. I've had them on my other cars and motorcycles. Usually little to no metal accumulates, but it certainly doesn't hurt to have a tiny bit of extra "filtering".
I'd want to get a magnetic drain plug. I've had them on my other cars and motorcycles. Usually little to no metal accumulates, but it certainly doesn't hurt to have a tiny bit of extra "filtering".
I think M12 - 1.25? But don’t hold me to that..
Anyone have thoughts on the ‘Fumoto’ drain valves/plugs?
Anyone have thoughts on the ‘Fumoto’ drain valves/plugs?
I usually install one right after the free oil changes ends........ I have them in 4 of my vehicles. The last one I purchased for the Taco had a design change. There used to be a two pronged metal safety clip that physically prevented the spring loaded lever from moving, The last one had a plastic clip that sorta wrapped around and clipped into place and no safety lanyard. It hasn't fallen off yet but I like the old style better.
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I am going to do oil change soon before 1000 k miles . I also thought about F&R diff and transfer case fluid.
I don’t know if the diff has plug drain and fill or do you have to remove cover . Transfer case as well should have plugs .
I asked my dealership service advisor and he wondered why I want to do that , he has never had someone do that .
My plans for future is oil/filter every5k transfer case 30k , transmission fluid every 60k
I don’t know if the diff has plug drain and fill or do you have to remove cover . Transfer case as well should have plugs .
I asked my dealership service advisor and he wondered why I want to do that , he has never had someone do that .
My plans for future is oil/filter every5k transfer case 30k , transmission fluid every 60k
