Oil & Filter change guide for 2.8d (1gd-ftv)

[Toyoda]

I am hoping to keep my LC for as long as possible, so I thought I would give it the best start in life and change the engine oil and filter at 1000 miles.

Here is my basic guide, if anyone is interested in having a go. I found it satisfyingly simple, and It took me around 45 minutes and 2 cups of tea.

Oil & filter change on the 2.8 (1gd-ftv) diesel engine:


Drive, or jack the vehicle up onto a couple of ramps / blocks to be able to slide underneath.


If you are only changing the oil and not the filter for some reason, this access panel comes off separately (3 bolts), to allow access to the sump drain plug.

As the filter is being changed too, the plastic under tray must be removed for access. This is held on by 4 bolts with 12mm heads.


Remove the sump plug (14mm) and drain the engine oil - make sure you have a suitably sized container and note that it comes out very fast!

Whilst the oil is draining, remove the oil filter. Access is probably best by sliding underneath, behind the o/s/f wheel.
The factory fitted filter was extremely tight , so I ended up using this oil filter socket / extension combo to remove it:

I found it was useful to put a heavy duty bag (ziplok or similar grade of plastic) over the oil filter once it was loose enough to be turned by hand and spin it off within the bag. This prevented any oil spillage onto the floor.

Next, fill / prime the new oil filter, smear some oil around the seal & fit it.

Refit the sump plug with new washer.

Fill oil - Toyota workshop manual calls for 7.3L when the filter is changed too.

A funnel is very handy when filling - I had to improvise here…

Check oil level, then run up and check for leaks.

Refit undertray. ( 4 x bolts with 12mm head)

Check oil level again & top up if necessary.
I found it difficult to see the new oil level on the dipstick, but adhering to the 7.3L fill volume should give you the confidence that the level is correct.


I also greased the prop shafts (spiders & sliders) for good measure.



UK Part numbers:

• Oil filter = 90915-YZZJ3
• Drain plug washer = 90080-43037

Oil choice for UK climate:
Mobil 1 0w20 ESP X2

 

[Area 51]

Great pics and write up.
Thx.

 

[btbuk]

Hi,
Great guide/

I’m concerned about the recommended engine oil for my Land Cruiser 250 2.8 diesel. According to the manual downloaded from the Toyota website, diesel vehicles should use 5W-30 oil. However, the dealer advised using 0W-20. After checking with the dealer, I found that the engine codes they referenced are for petrol engines. I've also taken a picture of their guide.


Is there a way to confirm if 0W-20 is the correct oil for the LC250 2.8 diesel?


Thank you.

 

[Nigt3]

Hi,
Great guide/

I’m concerned about the recommended engine oil for my Land Cruiser 250 2.8 diesel. According to the manual downloaded from the Toyota website, diesel vehicles should use 5W-30 oil. However, the dealer advised using 0W-20. After checking with the dealer, I found that the engine codes they referenced are for petrol engines. I've also taken a picture of their guide.


Is there a way to confirm if 0W-20 is the correct oil for the LC250 2.8 diesel?


Thank you.

Go with with 5W30, 0-20 is too thin no matter what is recommended, 5W30 is better

 

[Piggy]

I think the key here is "Except for Euro V/VI"...

CF-4 is 100% not suitable for a DPF!! I know that some Asian markets for the 1GD Hilux didn't have DPFs on them, at least a few years ago, maybe some markets still don't get the DPF and this is for them.

You need to be looking at the next page (678) on the European manual (PZ49X-9A732-EN). C2/C5 is what you should be using. Same for the Australian and NZ manuals, page 562, you can find a PDF for the former online.

SAE 0W-20 is filled into your Toyota vehicle at manufacturing, and the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.

0W-20: ACEA C5
0W-30 and 5W-30: ACEA C2 or JASO DL-1

C2 C5 0w-20 is the correct spec.

I will ask my dealer about 5w-30 but I doubt they will agree and I certainly won't fight them on it, because while the manual says:

The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions.

Given how common the DPF issues have been on these motors, I don't want to make this a point of contention should something go wrong.

 

[Toyoda]

I am reading the page below from the LC manual as:

EURO 6:
0w-20 (ACEA C5) is preferred but 0W-30 and 5W-30 can be used as long as it meets ACEA C2 or JASO DL-1

I think the most important thing is to make sure the correct spec oil is used or no doubt DPF issues will arise as Piggy has rightly said.

 

[Yousef]

Excellent right up and as for the oil type my KSA spec Prado 2.8 which is equipped with DPF and Adblue, the manual calls for C2,C5 spec oils and I use 5W30 C3 which is compatible with emissions systems and should be suitable for hot climates.

 

[Piggy]

Just booked my first oil change. They weren’t too keen on entertaining me with 5w-30. But they said they don’t use the 0w-20 C5. They’ll be using 0w-30, so can’t complain too much I suppose.

 

[btbuk]

All of this is very confusing. Still dont know which oil is correct/better option for 2.8 diesel engine

I have done two oil and filter changes so far on my vehicle.
1st change: 1,488 miles (break-in oil) – I found quite a few metal shavings in the oil, which I’m glad I caught early.
2nd change: After a 2,000-mile trip to Spain – The oil was much cleaner, with very few metal shavings.

I’ve been using Toyota dealer 0W-20 oil since that’s what they recommend, but I keep wondering—what oil does the vehicle actually leave the factory with? I’m tempted to call the Japan factory to find out, but I don’t speak Japanese!

 

[Toyoda]

All of this is very confusing. Still dont know which oil is correct/better option for 2.8 diesel engine

I have done two oil and filter changes so far on my vehicle.
1st change: 1,488 miles (break-in oil) – I found quite a few metal shavings in the oil, which I’m glad I caught early.
2nd change: After a 2,000-mile trip to Spain – The oil was much cleaner, with very few metal shavings.

I’ve been using Toyota dealer 0W-20 oil since that’s what they recommend, but I keep wondering—what oil does the vehicle actually leave the factory with? I’m tempted to call the Japan factory to find out, but I don’t speak Japanese!

 

[btbuk]

Please see the attached two pages from the user manual. When I log into my Toyota account and enter my VIN, the user manual PZ49X-9A732-EN appears for my vehicle. The first page pertains to petrol engines and matches what you have attached, while the second page is for diesel engines and contains different information.

 

[Toyoda]

@btbuk The pages from manual you have attached there, don't include any oil specifications for the Euro 6 diesel, which we have.

The next page (678), has all of the information required, and the correct oil specs for Euro 5 & 6.

 

[btbuk]

oh I see. I have stopped reading on p.677 now it is much clearer. Thanks

 

[Piggy]

Confirmed, 0W-30, C2.

The engine was immediately less rattly. Very happy not to have the 0W-20.

Also got a sample for an oil analysis. I am curious to see how much diesel is in the oil.

 

[btbuk]

Piggy have you got the analysis results?

 

[Piggy]

Piggy have you got the analysis results?

1GD (mild hybrid Diesel) Oil Analysis

Got first oil change around 1150km, results of oil sample.

www.landcruiserforum.com

 

[EOD Guy]

Will an empty 1qt (.9 L) oil bottle screw into the oil fill hole to serve as a leak proof funnel?

I use a cut off 2L plastic soda bottle to slip over the oil filter, to remove it without making a mess.

 

[michaelbinary]

I am hoping to keep my LC for as long as possible, so I thought I would give it the best start in life and change the engine oil and filter at 1000 miles.

Here is my basic guide, if anyone is interested in having a go. I found it satisfyingly simple, and It took me around 45 minutes and 2 cups of tea.

Oil & filter change on the 2.8 (1gd-ftv) diesel engine:


Drive, or jack the vehicle up onto a couple of ramps / blocks to be able to slide underneath.


If you are only changing the oil and not the filter for some reason, this access panel comes off separately (3 bolts), to allow access to the sump drain plug.
View attachment 21686


As the filter is being changed too, the plastic under tray must be removed for access. This is held on by 4 bolts with 12mm heads.


Remove the sump plug (14mm) and drain the engine oil - make sure you have a suitably sized container and note that it comes out very fast!

View attachment 21687

Whilst the oil is draining, remove the oil filter. Access is probably best by sliding underneath, behind the o/s/f wheel.
The factory fitted filter was extremely tight , so I ended up using this oil filter socket / extension combo to remove it:

View attachment 21688


View attachment 21689
I found it was useful to put a heavy duty bag (ziplok or similar grade of plastic) over the oil filter once it was loose enough to be turned by hand and spin it off within the bag. This prevented any oil spillage onto the floor.

Next, fill / prime the new oil filter, smear some oil around the seal & fit it.

Refit the sump plug with new washer.

Fill oil - Toyota workshop manual calls for 7.3L when the filter is changed too.

A funnel is very handy when filling - I had to improvise here…
View attachment 21691

Check oil level, then run up and check for leaks.

Refit undertray. ( 4 x bolts with 12mm head)

Check oil level again & top up if necessary.
I found it difficult to see the new oil level on the dipstick, but adhering to the 7.3L fill volume should give you the confidence that the level is correct.


I also greased the prop shafts (spiders & sliders) for good measure.



UK Part numbers:

• Oil filter = 90915-YZZJ3
• Drain plug washer = 90080-43037

Oil choice for UK climate:
Mobil 1 0w20 ESP X2

View attachment 21690
View attachment 21692

Hi, very informative post, could you tell me what the tool is you used to loosen the oil filter and how long an extension do you need to reach it. I am going to change the oil in my LC 250 next week at 1000 miles and I want to make sure I got all the right tools before I start, once you drain hte oil you are kinda screwed if you cant remove the filter. thanks.

 

[EOD Guy]

You're not screwed! If you are unable to get the filter off using a filter wrench, the solution is simple but scary.......... Drive a screwdriver through the oil filter and twist it off. Sounds violent but, you are installing a new filter anyways so it doesn't matter what the old one looks like.

I use this wrench / funnel set, a little pricey but well worth it! The little hose this is for "cartridge" type filters (which I also have) and if you don't own a Toyota with a cartridge type filter, it's not needed and you could get the kit without it.

 

[Crussy]

Thanks so much for this guide. It was the only guide I found for the EU market diesel engine! Really saved me from a potentially expensive mistake.

Also let me emphasis on how helpful your tip of putting the filter into a plastic bag before unscrewing WOULD HAVE BEEN had I followed it.