Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

[EOD Guy]

thank you - i won't be buying the kit since they are separate on amazon, so i'll just not buy the filter drain tool if it's not needed.
this says it includes the washers: https://a.co/d/g1gICe5 so am i good to go?

I'd be careful purchasing from Amazon and it not being a Toyota dealership, there are lots of counterfeit Toyota parts out there. I only buy if the seller is a dealership.

As an example the following dealership, the filter is $4.64 + shipping. I later discovered my local dealership sold them for just about the same price as having them shipped etc....

https://parts.elmhursttoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-genuine-toyota-engine-oil-filter-n1-aka-f2-90915yzzn1

 

[justaprado]

I'd be careful purchasing from Amazon and it not being a Toyota dealership, there are lots of counterfeit Toyota parts out there. I only buy if the seller is a dealership.

As an example the following dealership, the filter is $4.64 + shipping. I later discovered my local dealership sold them for just about the same price as having them shipped etc....

https://parts.elmhursttoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-genuine-toyota-engine-oil-filter-n1-aka-f2-90915yzzn1

duly noted. but about the crush washers - those are pictured and described as included in the amzn link? for my knowledge of what to look for. thanks!

 

[EOD Guy]

duly noted. but about the crush washers - those are pictured and described as included in the amzn link? for my knowledge of what to look for. thanks!

A crush washer should be included with the FUMOTO valve and should be the last one you'll need, once you install the valve.

 

[justaprado]

A crush washer should be included with the FUMOTO valve and should be the last one you'll need, once you install the valve.

Copy. However, I'm referring to the washer or o-ring included (or supposed to be included) with the oil filter - and it seems that has been incorrectly called a 'crush washer' in a few earlier posts in this thread. Lots of confusion/miscommunication here!

 

[EOD Guy]

Copy. However, I'm referring to the washer or o-ring included (or supposed to be included) with the oil filter - and it seems that has been incorrectly called a 'crush washer' in a few earlier posts in this thread. Lots of confusion/miscommunication here!

When they include a new crush washer (correct term) with a new spin on filter it's for the oil pan drain plug as you should change the crush washer every time you remove the drain plug.

There isn't a washer for a spin on oil filter. There is a large rubber gasket that's glued on to the filter. When you remove the old filter, you should visually inspect the engine mating surface or the old used filter to insure the old gasket didn't stick to the engine. If you install a new filter (with it's new gasket) on top of the old gasket you will get a terrible leak, it's referred to as double gasketing.

"O" rings are for cartridge style filter housings and normally there are two, a small one and a large one. The large one is for the housing where it screws into the engine block and the small one is for the removable filter drain cover. If you don't remove the drain cover, you can throw the small one away etc.......

 

[justaprado]

When they include a new crush washer (correct term) with a new spin on filter it's for the oil pan drain plug as you should change the crush washer every time you remove the drain plug.

There isn't a washer for a spin on oil filter. There is a large rubber gasket that's glued on to the filter. When you remove the old filter, you should visually inspect the engine mating surface or the old used filter to insure the old gasket didn't stick to the engine. If you install a new filter (with it's new gasket) on top of the old gasket you will get a terrible leak, it's referred to as double gasketing.

"O" rings are for cartridge style filter housings and normally there are two, a small one and a large one. The large one is for the housing where it screws into the engine block and the small one is for the removable filter drain cover. If you don't remove the drain cover, you can throw the small one away etc.......

Thank you for clearing this up for me and having the patience to explain it. I'm tracking now.

 

[ryanjl]

Changed my own oil at 500 miles and again at 5,000. When I did it at 5,000, I installed the Fumoto valve.

My dealership offers a "lifetime warranty" when you buy a new Toyota from them. My assumption is it's a good idea to utilize their oil change service to play nice with that warranty, but they wouldn't do it until the factory recommended interval. So I had the dealership change my oil today at around 9,600 miles.

I'm curious how they dealt with the Fumoto valve. I may pull my skid plate and check it out when I get a chance.

 

[EOD Guy]

Changed my own oil at 500 miles and again at 5,000. When I did it at 5,000, I installed the Fumoto valve.

My dealership offers a "lifetime warranty" when you buy a new Toyota from them. My assumption is it's a good idea to utilize their oil change service to play nice with that warranty, but they wouldn't do it until the factory recommended interval. So I had the dealership change my oil today at around 9,600 miles.

I'm curious how they dealt with the Fumoto valve. I may pull my skid plate and check it out when I get a chance.

They'll change it whenever you want but, you have to pay for it........LOL. It's free at the 10k and 20k marks.

 

[RuSure]

Just did first change at 5200, felt guilty waiting that long.

The pan setup on my rig is not the same as the OP. Mine was closer to the 4runner I just traded in.

BUT easy change, oil was dark but looked clean.

All parts from Toyota, WS was $5.62 per quart, Filter $4.18.

 

[Rubicon15]

I can confirm, dealer changed my oil and filter last night, they used 5w-30 oil as recommended by Toyota for our weather, it gets to 120f+ from June to August and drops in September.

I believe, the current filter part number is 90915-YZZN1.

 

[Rubicon15]

Did my first change yesterday at 875 miles, and I kind of wish I would have used ramps like most recommend in here. I managed to squeeze in and get to everything with no major issues, but the ramps or even jack stands would have made it much easier.

I also swapped over my Stahlbus drain valve that was removed from the Tacoma I traded in for the LC. Works great with a new crush washer, and it should make the changes easier/less messy in the future. If anyone is looking for an alternative to the Fumoto valve, I can confirm this fits: stahlbus Oil Drain Valve M12x1.25x12mm, steel (set)

Have you ever used a Fumoto drain plug? I need to purchase a drain plug to install under a Victory skid plate. Is the Stahlbus better or higher quality?

 

[Rubicon15]

They'll change it whenever you want but, you have to pay for it........LOL. It's free at the 10k and 20k marks.

Interesting, the manual clearly states, change the oil every 5K miles or six months, whichever comes first.

 

[EOD Guy]

Interesting, the manual clearly states, change the oil every 5K miles or six months, whichever comes first.

For normal use, it clearly states the interval is 10k. I change at 5K

 

[kmershly]

I apprehensively brought in my LC for its 10k oil change at the dealer. The first thing I noticed was something seemed different, the staff which had been there for years was mostly gone, very few of the same faces.

The next thing I noticed was that the service writer was polite and not a complete jerk, something was different.

The service itself was a bit sloppy spilling some oil and not cleaning it up, but that is minor, I cleaned it up when I got home with a bit of break parts cleaner.

I had forgotten to remove my Fumoto valve before bringing it, the dealership had previously complained about my use of a Fumoto valve, including threatening to have my engine warranty cancelled, not a single word about it this time.

They also had switched from Pepsi products to Coke Products, so that was the icing on the cake.

Upon picking my car up, I asked about the change in staff, the service writer said to me, that the local dealer group (which was terrible) sold this store to Penske Automotive and Penske cleaned house.

 

[Rubicon15]

For normal use, it clearly states the interval is 10k. I change at 5K

I read the maintenance information and a 10K mile free oil change is correct. However, I read somewhere else that the oil should be changed at 5K or every 6 months. I’m a 5K minimum person. Oil is cheap maintenance. I also prefer to charge the oil myself. I just changed the oil at 502 miles. IMO, this is still a best practice.

 

[Rubicon15]

I apprehensively brought in my LC for its 10k oil change at the dealer. The first thing I noticed was something seemed different, the staff which had been there for years was mostly gone, very few of the same faces.

The next thing I noticed was that the service writer was polite and not a complete jerk, something was different.

The service itself was a bit sloppy spilling some oil and not cleaning it up, but that is minor, I cleaned it up when I got home with a bit of break parts cleaner.

I had forgotten to remove my Fumoto valve before bringing it, the dealership had previously complained about my use of a Fumoto valve, including threatening to have my engine warranty cancelled, not a single word about it this time.

They also had switched from Pepsi products to Coke Products, so that was the icing on the cake.

Upon picking my car up, I asked about the change in staff, the service writer said to me, that the local dealer group (which was terrible) sold this store to Penske Automotive and Penske cleaned house.

The other service technician/representative was on a power trip… No wonder they cleaned house.

 

[justaprado]

I apprehensively brought in my LC for its 10k oil change at the dealer. The first thing I noticed was something seemed different, the staff which had been there for years was mostly gone, very few of the same faces.

They also had switched from Pepsi products to Coke Products, so that was the icing on the cake.

not the Pepsi!

 

[njdevils89]

I did the oil for first time at home at 5k miles, dealership did the free one at 10k, and I'm about to do the 15k mile one.

Don't trust 10k intervals!

 

[RUN-8]

I don’t understand the reticence of people to do oil changes every 5K instead of 10K.

The total operating cost increase over 100K miles at a cost of $55 or so for a Toyota filter and Mobil 1 synthetic for each oil change is not that much.

You the owner will pay for 8 oil changes on a 100K service life after Toyota covers the first 2. Your cost if you do them yourself = $440 or so over 100K miles.

If you do them every 5K plus a 500-1200 mile initial oil change to get break in particulates out you will be paying for gasp 19 oil changes for a bank breaking cost of $1045 provided you perform the labor.

Is a difference in maintenance costs of $605 over 5-10 years really a deal breaker when the shorter OCI keeps the engine cleaner and better protected from wear?

You might feel pretty clever if you plan on long term ownership, which Land Cruiser people are NOTORIOUS for; if you avoid problems with cylinder wear or other maladies from piston ring oil coking issues that will wreck a cylinder block by simply keeping clean fresh oil in the engine. If your oil control rings no longer move freely and don’t seal you will score cylinder walls, and you will develop oil consumption issues. Toyota engine blocks are not designed to be re-bored and honed.

So unless you enjoy the prospect of a new short block and rebuild, or having a machine shop install Darton cylinder sleeves (which could be bad ass but $$$$$$$$) change your damn oil early. It doesn’t cost that much more. You bought a $70K 4X4, you can probably afford another $60-$100/year on maintenance to keep it tip top.

 

[Rubicon15]

I don’t understand the reticence of people to do oil changes every 5K instead of 10K.

The total operating cost increase over 100K miles at a cost of $55 or so for a Toyota filter and Mobil 1 synthetic for each oil change is not that much.

You the owner will pay for 8 oil changes on a 100K service life after Toyota covers the first 2. Your cost if you do them yourself = $440 or so over 100K miles.

If you do them every 5K plus a 500-1200 mile initial oil change to get break in particulates out you will be paying for gasp 19 oil changes for a bank breaking cost of $1045 provided you perform the labor.

Is a difference in maintenance costs of $605 over 5-10 years really a deal breaker when the shorter OCI keeps the engine cleaner and better protected from wear?

You might feel pretty clever if you plan on long term ownership, which Land Cruiser people are NOTORIOUS for; if you avoid problems with cylinder wear or other maladies from piston ring oil coking issues that will wreck a cylinder block by simply keeping clean fresh oil in the engine. If your oil control rings no longer move freely and don’t seal you will score cylinder walls, and you will develop oil consumption issues. Toyota engine blocks are not designed to be re-bored and honed.

So unless you enjoy the prospect of a new short block and rebuild, or having a machine shop install Darton cylinder sleeves (which could be bad ass but $$$$$$$$) change your damn oil early. It doesn’t cost that much more. You bought a $70K 4X4, you can probably afford another $60-$100/year on maintenance to keep it tip top.

Well stated! Another way of looking at this… If you were purchasing a used vehicle, would you purchase the one that the oil was changed every 10K miles or 5K miles? How about the people that wait for the oil change light to illuminate? They have no idea how many miles they drove since the last oil change. The best practice is pretty simple. Change the oil and filter every 5K miles or six months. The bare minimum is 10K miles or annually.