Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

I’m in the minority here, I don’t really care at what intervals other people are changing their oil and filter. It’s their truck, their coin to spend as they wish.
“ Normal use”… I figure I am using it normally. Sure I push it through deep snow and mud on occasion. Lots of dusty logging roads. I’m not trying to turn 35” mud terrains with a 2” lift carrying an extra 500 pounds on my roof.
Just to be different, ( and maybe piss off a few people) I’ll do my oil change intervals at 7-8,000 miles. I don’t see the reasoning for it to be either 5,000 or 10,000.
 
I’m in the minority here, I don’t really care at what intervals other people are changing their oil and filter. It’s their truck, their coin to spend as they wish.
“ Normal use”… I figure I am using it normally. Sure I push it through deep snow and mud on occasion. Lots of dusty logging roads. I’m not trying to turn 35” mud terrains with a 2” lift carrying an extra 500 pounds on my roof.
Just to be different, ( and maybe piss off a few people) I’ll do my oil change intervals at 7-8,000 miles. I don’t see the reasoning for it to be either 5,000 or 10,000.
This is definitely a personal preference thing… 7-8K is better than waiting to 10K miles. You may find yourself changing the oil early based on driving conditions.
 
I’ll do my oil change intervals at 7-8,000 miles. I don’t see the reasoning for it to be either 5,000 or 10,000.
That's a good compromise.
3k is too often, but 10k is too long. Part of why I started doing 5k on all my vehicles a long time ago is I don't have to have a dumb sticker on my windshield or do any math. Every time the 4th digit turns over to a 5 or a 0 I change the oil.
 
Auto manufacturers are using extended oil change intervals to promote lower operating costs. Plus there is an EPA guideline promoting extended drain intervals for oil and other fluids to reduce waste and pollution. This program goes back over 20 years, and they’re still at it.


Not sure if the manufacturers see a financial incentive for this, but I would not be shocked if they did.

There is a balancing act going on here between the warranty claims actuarial nerds, accountants, engineers, marketers, and probably government regulatory agencies. The compromise Toyota has arrived at is the best balance of meeting their goals, not necessarily yours as the end user.

Everything is a compromise. If you decide to do more maintenance than required, your costs go up, but the useful service life of your vehicle or any other equipment you own also likely increases. It’s your decision to make and depends on your use case.
 
Seems to be a slight misunderstanding………… I think anyone waiting 10K miles to do an oil change is playing with fire. Oil is cheap compared to a new engine, even if the dealer replaces it under warranty, you still have to deal with all the BS that goes with it!
 
Wasting money with a qt flush, nothing to flush out.

Drain plug torque is 30 ft lbs.... replace the gasket.

Oil Filter - 90915-YZZN1
so 30 ft lbs for the oil drain plug and 21 for the skid plate? or is it different for the 2025 verison?
 
Is anyone using aftermarket oil filters rather than using the Toyota brand filter? I’m thinking about going with a fram filter like the tough guard or the one specifically designed for full synthetic oil. Not only because I’m a cheap bastard but more because they are readily available at Wally World.
Thoughts?
 
That Fram one made for synthetic is what AMSOil uses for extended intervals and protection and has rebranded and sells as there own. So it’s cheap but quality, I’ve used the Fram and will likely continue with it after I run out of the rebranded Amsoils.
 
Have you ever used a Fumoto drain plug? I need to purchase a drain plug to install under a Victory skid plate. Is the Stahlbus better or higher quality?
I’ve never used a Fumoto. I was going to install one on my Tacoma, but someone on the forum suggested the Stahlbus because it doesn’t have a lever to open/close; the Stahlbus uses an internal ball bearing valve. The choice was a personal preference really. I’m sure the Fumoto is totally fine, especially if it’s behind skid plate protection.
 
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Fumoto F133N installed
View attachment 11634

Used both ramps to put the plates back on.
I'm at 500 mi and found your post as I wanted to see if that plastic bit came off with the front skid plate before I committed to it. Thanks for your write-up!

Question about installing the fumoto, which I already have ready: is that a crush washer that would normally be used with the OEM drain plug or something else? Not sure my fumoto came with one, but it looks like a necessary item! Not too many fumoto install write-ups that I can find and it's my first time with a toyota or a fumoto valve, so I just want everything perfect. Thanks!
 
I'm at 500 mi and found your post as I wanted to see if that plastic bit came off with the front skid plate before I committed to it. Thanks for your write-up!

Question about installing the fumoto, which I already have ready: is that a crush washer that would normally be used with the OEM drain plug or something else? Not sure my fumoto came with one, but it looks like a necessary item! Not too many fumoto install write-ups that I can find and it's my first time with a toyota or a fumoto valve, so I just want everything perfect. Thanks!
OEM will fit and yes you need one.
 
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