Lift & leveling kit options
- Thread starter Draper
- Start date
Hey all - I can't figure out the "right" UCA to get for this mild lift setup I'm going for. So far:
Now - I'm not going to be hardcore rock crawling, mostly service roads and some occasionally (very) mild terrain. I'm mostly after a relatively maintenance free UCA (that doesn't necessarily break the bank, but I'm open to spending if needed).
I've been leaning towards the Dobinsons, but they don't come with bushings (?). Any suggestions?
| Front Kit Bilstein B8 6112 | 47-347472 |
| Rear Bilstein B8 6100 | 24-347440 |
| Dobinson Rear Spring (2" 0lbs load) | C59-817V |
Now - I'm not going to be hardcore rock crawling, mostly service roads and some occasionally (very) mild terrain. I'm mostly after a relatively maintenance free UCA (that doesn't necessarily break the bank, but I'm open to spending if needed).
I've been leaning towards the Dobinsons, but they don't come with bushings (?). Any suggestions?
What setting are you going with on the front 6112?
You likely don’t NEED UCAs unless you simply want max adjustability and the ability to ensure you’re right in the middle of your alignment range, which is reasonable.
I would recommend the SPC Forged UCAs as they’re adjustable so you can set them up for a mild setup, they’re forged, super proven and fully rebuild able.
Appreciate the insight @Matthew@LC250Mods - Yeah my biggest concern is getting the alignment in spec. Are you saying that without UCAs and the 2.75f/2r lift I should be able to get the alignment right without UCAs?
At 2.75" front lift it will be hard to get decent caster with stock UCAs. You definitely won't be able to get to nominal caster (4.2-ish).
I'd recommend the OME UCAs. They're low maintenance and their bushings allow free movement; you don't have to deal with bushings binding.
I'd recommend the OME UCAs. They're low maintenance and their bushings allow free movement; you don't have to deal with bushings binding.
On most LC's, 2.75" of lift will put you within stock alignment specs but not dead centered in the range, especially on caster. ie you aren't going to wear out tires but the steering might not feel as nice.
If budget isn't a concern, upper UCAs give you the margin to make sure you can target whatever alignment specs you want.
If it were me and wanting maintenance free I'd go with the Dobinsons. Fully adjustable and you just have the old ball joint pressed out of the OEM arms and into the new ones. The bushings come with the arms and are rubber so no maintenance there either and no future noises like with Poly bushings just be careful removing the boot and its retainer and you can reuse the boot. There is also a circlip under the boot that has to be removed before pressing out and put back after pressing in. The dies to press the old ball joints in and out also come with the arms and I bought a shop press at harbor freight for $150 and did that myself during my install in less than 5 minutes per side.
As stated previously I doubt you;ll get within alignment specs without adjustable arms with any lift beyond 2". Depending upon how long you plan to keep the vehicle the arms will pay for themselves in tire wear life and other components up front lasting longer, plus it's just safer to drive when it can be properly aligned.
Just had my MT64 kit installed yesterday, 3"F/2"R lift with OME UCAs and a Dobinson diff drop.
Rides pretty well, getting some weird metallic twanging over hard bumps but I'm 99% sure its my new oem skid plates. Wheels and tires are 17x8.5 Method 703s +35mm offset and 285/70/17E Falken AT4Ws. Thinking of trading up for 35s, but not sure what kind of other modifications I need to do.
Rides pretty well, getting some weird metallic twanging over hard bumps but I'm 99% sure its my new oem skid plates. Wheels and tires are 17x8.5 Method 703s +35mm offset and 285/70/17E Falken AT4Ws. Thinking of trading up for 35s, but not sure what kind of other modifications I need to do.
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Looks awesome but exactly why I want a tiny level/ lift! I know if I go 2/3” I’ll want 35” tires too
Looks just right! Hopefully the twanging is just the skid plates. I know a few different ones now have been known to make lots of noise, especially RCI.
I've seen a few cases of upper spherical bearing failure on the MT64's as well, though that sounds more like a click than a twang. Keep us posted!
We’re all guessing here and there.
My guessing / suggestion is tighten all skid plate bolts and see how it goes (ask me how I know
So I have a question for the group. I'm about to embark here soon on my very first off-road build and I'm looking at doing the Bilstein 6112/6100 kit on my LC250. I just want to level the cruiser and am wondering. ONE do I really need to do a front diff drop and TWO will the OEM silver TRD front UCA be fine with light off-roading and mostly daily driving in mind. Only Modification I'll have up front is a C4 bumper with Warn EVO 12S and a BAJA designs S8 20" bar that will effect that front weight a tad. Also why is no one swapping in the OEM Tacoma or 4runner axles instead of doing a diff drop...
The Bilstein kits are getting great feedback so far and should achieve your goals well. You don't need a diff drop unless you're going for more than about 2" of lift. To sit perfectly level you'd likely want about 1.5" up front so you should be in the clear of rubber on rubber binding, etc. It's cheap and fairly straightforward to add later if the angle seems excessive.
The TRD UCAs will be totally capable of what you need. Similar to the diff drop, you'd be at the upper limits of the stock UCAs at 2" of lift so the TRDs will provide you with some buffer and the ability to get the caster you want.
We have everything you need should you decide to pull the trigger!
If you have any questions, we're here to help!
I’m worried that corporate enshitification is getting to ARB.
Why did many people here not go with a set of Kings Suspension + TC uca ?
It’s superior to me which brings 1000 SPG
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