Is This The Ideal Sub 2" Lift For a Daily Driver LC250?

I'm curious about your experience with the OME UCAs. When you switched from factory UCAs to OME at just under 2" of lift, did you notice a meaningful difference in steering feel, return-to-center, or highway stability? Or was the primary benefit achieving better alignment numbers and additional clearance?

If you have your before-and-after caster measurements, I'd be really interested in seeing them.

Your suggestion about retaining the factory UCAs initially and upgrading only if necessary makes a lot of sense. That's probably where I'm leaning now.

That brings up a question: At my proposed lift height, do you think the adjustable rear links would provide enough benefit in articulation or sway-bar positioning to justify installing them? Or would the OME relocation brackets Mtn40 mentioned accomplish most of what I'd need?
With 2" lift and factory UCAs, I was able to get alignment (caster) in spec, but not nominal. Also my UCAs just barely touched the spring at full droop, which I didn't like. I was not limiting articulation though. From reports here on the forum, not everyone had UCA/Spring contact with 2" lift. So the upgrade was to address those two things.
With caster at nominal I felt like it did track on the highway a bit better, but I didn't notice any change to the other characteristics you mentioned.

Regarding rear sway bar links and @Bad1975's comments on them:
At each iteration of my suspension journey I flexed and measured everything thoroughly. I never saw the sway bar close to limiting rear suspension travel. It might happen on other platforms, but this sway bar is really light.
I actually had more rear suspension travel with the RC lift than with my BPs (shock length is the limiting factor) and had only the stock rear sway bar links and brackets. The links were at quite an angle on the compressed side, but not binding or causing any other issue. I guess where travel would be limited on this platform if anywhere would be on the droop side when flexed when the link was pulled tight and inline with the swaybar end. I'm going to have to check this to verify now. I know I noted it when flexing, but don't have a picture to prove it.
I agree that longer links are a better option than the brackets because it keeps the sway bar at the factory positions, especially at the limits of travel. For a small lift and at ride height/normal driving the brackets are adequate. But even at limits of travel, the brackets do the job.
And for ~1" lift in the rear, I don't think any change to the rear sway bar is needed. As a sway bar ends get farther from horizontal, it does have less control of the axle, but this sway bar is really soft and does very little anyway.
 
Your 99% on road & limited off road trail excursion doesn’t require the system you about to spend. Westcott or Peak might do you great service. Lots of opinions, but if money matters.


This is a hill I'm willing to die on regarding spacers.
If you want looks, preload collars are great.
If you're going to wheel, a moderate strut-top spacer is better.

I'd dare say none of us are off-road enough to actually justify the mods we make to a nice highway-cruising vehicle. It's all just what we want and tradeoffs we're willing to make to further enjoy the precious time we are offroad.
 
@KWLC250 I'm running the Dobinsons links, no issues at all over the approx. 20 months they've been installed and 500 miles offroad.

Also, I don't have the IMS on the 250 (Running GS extended travels), only the other two Land Cruisers have IMS and I don't think you'll be disappointed in them, they are very well matched to the platforms they are meant for IME.

I've ran Rancho (Ewww, junk), Bilstein (Pretty darn good), ICON (Trash, never again), ProComps (Pretty good, but the parts support dies off quickly), TJM Golds (Australia, comparable to Bilstein), KW suspension (Lowering setup, was awesome) and 3 Dobinsons setups and will likely never go with anything else after having tried these.

King and Radflo are great but they both rely heavily on the user knowing what springs they should run so can be hit or miss on getting it right out of the box.

This is a hill I'm willing to die on regarding spacers.
If you want looks, preload collars are great.
If you're going to wheel, a moderate strut-top spacer is better.

I'd dare say none of us are off-road enough to actually justify the mods we make to a nice highway-cruising vehicle. It's all just what we want and tradeoffs we're willing to make to further enjoy the precious time we are offroad.
Totally agree, for me I offroad more than most I think but still not enough to justify the mods in most people's minds. I'm simply not willing to sacrifice offroad capabilities for anything I take out and I know what the areas I frequent require having taken allot of different platforms there, many of which weren't yet modified and resulted in getting stuck quite bad and came really close to damage a few times so now I build anything I will take out accordingly.

I do far more solo stuff now with no cell reception, so it needs to more capable for me to ensure the best chance I'm not walking out. Same reason all 3 Land Cruisers have a winch, I've yet to use any of them to recover myself but have used them around my property to clear trees and such, cheap insurance to me. One offroad recovery if you have to pay for it will cost more than any winch setup and prevent hiking for miles and or spending the night offroad when not expecting or prepared to so.

Clearence is the #1 concern in the 250 for me, I added extended travel and heaver springs to take care of the additional weight I added as well because why it not, it wasn't costing me much more anyway on my Dobinsons setup so may as well do it while in there.
 
I found the Panhard /rear link can easily be out of the optimal horizontally position w/ just a small .75” rear lift & changing tire size to only 33” diameter. With the rear link not close to horizontal the LC rear axle movement over undulations starts kicking outwards vs up/down travel - & can feel squirrelly (technical term - not). BOTCK fixed that movement my LC, & also our 3Gen Tundra w/ OE TRD 3” lift.
Defiantly possible, I wouldn't know as I installed the adjustable Panhard along with the lift so I didn't experience any of that. It's more likely that you experienced that due to rear axle misalignment rather than the angle of the bar, I only say that because the angle difference is so slight even at 2" rear lift and IME has no noticeable effect when the axle alignment is corrected via the Panhard length at this slight of an angle. The more than angle is increased the more the bracket and adjustable Panhard become needed, I'd guess with Portals you'd need both to have any chance of OEM ride characteristics.
 
Snakes are getting that big down there that you need more clearance or is it the flooding?
Not sure who you're talking about but there isn't any flooding going on in Washington state. Many areas I frequent require more approach and departure angles and at least 12" of clearance (sometimes more) underneath. Getting a diff to clear is easy but when the entire skid plate low point resides at 8.75" that won't cut it.

8.75" of clearance also has a major impact when snow wheeling as the whole under carriage up front is plowing through the snow, not too bad in powder but steals momentum quickly in the wetter snows.

After the lift and tires I'm at 11.75" front and rear (diff only low point on the rear) now, which still causes the occasional light scrape vs having to plow over stuff.
 
@Mtn40

Really appreciate the detailed follow-up. That's exactly the distinction I've been trying to establish.

Your observation that highway tracking improved slightly after reaching nominal caster is encouraging.

Your points about the rear sway bar are also helpful. Given your experience flexing and measuring multiple suspension configurations without encountering a meaningful restriction from the factory links, I'm becoming less inclined to replace them preemptively for only 0.5–1" of rear lift.

I'd appreciate reviewing any measurements you have for the various setups if you still have them and are open to sharing.

I also agree with your comment regarding preload collars vs other suspension setups.

Almost immediately after purchasing my LC250, I almost rushed out and bought the WD kit after seeing so many users with them. They're probably the most prevalent LC250 lift across forums and social media groups.

For me, I agree with both you and @Bad1975 and even roadventure. The LC250 performs so well right out of the box, and if I'm going to modify or change something I want to make sure I'm improving and not limiting any of those capabilities. While as you pointed out maximizing the opportunities where I get to push the truck, and my own, limits.

GR8Santini previously shared this video from Westcott Designs:

Westcott Designs — Suspension Droop Demonstration

I watched it several times because the demonstration initially seemed to contradict much of what I'd read about preload collars reducing available droop.

Westcott removes the coil spring from a Tundra's front strut and measures the distance from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender at full extension.

They report:
  • Factory configuration: 24"
  • Westcott configuration: 24 9/16"
  • Increase in maximum extension: 9/16"
At first glance, that seems like convincing evidence that the Westcott kit actually increases droop.

However, there's an important detail in the video: the Tundra setup includes a 1/2" upper strut spacer in addition to the lower preload collar.

My understanding is that the upper spacer moves the entire strut assembly downward relative to the chassis, allowing the suspension to extend approximately 9/16" farther before reaching the shock's extension limit.

The preload collar itself isn't responsible for that additional extension.

More importantly, the test measures maximum extension relative to the chassis, not how much droop remains available from the truck's new static ride height.

For example, if the suspension gains 9/16" of maximum extension but the preload/spacer combination raises the actual resting ride height by 2.5", wouldn't the net reduction in available droop still be approximately 1 15/16"?

In other words, both statements could be true:
  1. The suspension can extend 9/16" farther than stock at its absolute maximum.
  2. The suspension has nearly 2" less droop available from its new, higher resting position.
That's assuming the advertised lift is actually achieved, of course.

The other inconsistency I noticed is that Westcott's LC250 kit apparently doesn't include the same upper strut spacer demonstrated on the Tundra.

Their current LC250 product listing specifies:
  • Two lower front preload collars
  • Two rear spacer pucks
There's no mention of an upper strut spacer.

Westcott Designs — LC250 Preload Collar Lift Kit

If the LC250 kit is strictly a lower preload collar setup, and the original shock continues to determine maximum extension, wouldn't the reduction in available droop be approximately equal to the actual lift achieved?

That seems substantially different from what the Tundra video demonstrates.

I'm not suggesting Westcott's measurement is inaccurate. Rather, I think the video demonstrates an increase in absolute maximum extension resulting from the upper strut spacer, which isn't the same as establishing that the suspension retains its original usable droop travel after lifting.

I'm also not convinced the results can be directly applied to the LC250 if its kit uses a different configuration.

Your point about the tradeoffs between preload collars and moderate strut-top spacers makes sense in that context. Neither increases the shock's actual stroke, but they change where the suspension operates within its available travel and potentially where its mechanical limits occur.

That's also why I've been leaning toward a full suspension setup. Although I'm only targeting small amount of lift, I want to preserve as much usable suspension travel as possible while improving ride quality.

Of course, I realize a replacement shock doesn't automatically solve the droop issue either. Its actual extended length, compressed length, mounting geometry, and final ride height determine how much travel remains available.

One thing I'd really like to establish is how the standard-travel IMS59-60660 compares to the factory LC250 strut in terms of maximum extension and the amount of usable droop remaining at approximately 1.5–1.75" of lift.

Given your experience measuring suspension travel on multiple setups, I'd be interested in your interpretation of the Westcott demonstration and whether I'm overlooking something.

The goal isn't to criticize Westcott. I've heard plenty of positive experiences, including GR8Santini's. I'm just trying to separate what the demonstrations actually establish from the broader claims about maintaining factory articulation.

@Bad1975

Given the number of different manufacturers and systems you've tried, your positive long-term experience with Dobinsons certainly carries a lot of weight.

One of the things that attracted me to Dobinsons was their willingness to provide specific recommendations for my intended vehicle weight, spring selection, and lift height rather than simply recommending a standard 2–3" package.

I think @Sugarloafer80 was talking to me. Sugarloafer I know you're joking but the last two weeks we've been inundated by historic King Tides. The flooding across the island were the highest recorded for "Non-Storm" flooding.
 
So if the left frame fixed Panhard rod/link side & right rear axle mount side attaching points measured against the ground are more than 1.5” difference you may need the BOTCK to tame the rear end action. My ‘25 Tundra w/ factory 3” TRD lift measured was almost 5” link difference. Sure it had 3” lift, but factor in 35” tire & poor OE difference setup. The BOTCK kit changed that truck ride over bumps big time. Same on our LC w/ .75” rear lift & 33” tires had 2.4” difference, the feel over bumps was tamed w/ the kit.
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One thing I'd really like to establish is how the standard-travel IMS59-60660 compares to the factory LC250 strut in terms of maximum extension and the amount of usable droop remaining at approximately 1.5–1.75" of lift.
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One thing I’m not sure you have considered is that the 6th Gen 4Runner on the same chassis has 3 different OEM factory TRD and other trims upgrade suspensions from OME, Fox, and Bilstein. These have gone through hundreds of thousands of miles of testing and development with Toyota engineers. You can study the design and parts each supplier used like the forged TRD UCAs to get an idea of what a well developed suspension would look like for the LC250.
 
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