LC250 owner question why are so many people modifying immediately

[Bad1975]

@b407driver

The front and rear still go onto the bumps post lift just as it did stock. Droop was measured at 5-3/4" with traction and 6" no traction (wheel spin) up front (did as a comparison to all dogs spacer eraser to show that it loses droop at only 3" post spring install) , haven't specifically measured the rear as it was quite clear it has more articulation. Essentially this setup is the complete opposite of most usual off the shelf lifts in that the a standard off the shelf coilover lift or just spring lift trades droop for lift. If the shock dimension are the same as stock your only change where in the shock travel your at so lift = lost droop.

If I take the same approach angle on that bank the front will hit the bump stop at the post lift angle it will also hit the bump but well before the rear unloads to full droop which is what I was looking at in those pics. I tested everything post lift for rubbing, binding, shocks bottoming out before engaging bump stops and brake lines being long enough, all is good.

 

[D-mac]

A lot of Toyota dealers in my area are getting into the aftermarket customization/modification business for both off and on-road vehicles. The Toyota USA accessories catalog has parts from aftermarket vendors such as ARB, Dometic, Go Rhino, etc. It is not unusual to see LC250s with lifts, racks, wheels/tires, body armor, etc installed by dealers prior to sale. Of course the dealer can jack up the sale prices this way, and the customer can finance it all.

 

[b407driver]

The front and rear still go onto the bumps post lift just as it did stock. Droop was measured at 5-3/4" with traction and 6" no traction (wheel spin) up front (did as a comparison to all dogs spacer eraser to show that it loses droop at only 3" post spring install) , haven't specifically measured the rear as it was quite clear it has more articulation. Essentially this setup is the complete opposite of most usual off the shelf lifts in that the a standard off the shelf coilover lift or just spring lift trades droop for lift. If the shock dimension are the same as stock your only change where in the shock travel your at so lift = lost droop.

If I take the same approach angle on that bank the front will hit the bump stop at the post lift angle it will also hit the bump but well before the rear unloads to full droop which is what I was looking at in those pics. I tested everything post lift for rubbing, binding, shocks bottoming out before engaging bump stops and brake lines being long enough, all is good.

Thanks so much for that, it really helps. Finally a real lift that doesn't sacrifice the LC's performance offroad!

 

[imann777]

Well to add with others already chipped in. To me a few would be required to be modded.
1. The front air dam and lower bumper plastics are vulnerable. A 2-inch lift significantly improves the approach angle for trail work.
2. The LC250 feels slightly "under-damped" from the factory (a bit floaty). High-quality suspension (like OME, Icon, or Bilstein) provides an objective improvement in stability and cornering on pavement.
3. Any lift over 2 inches without a differential drop puts increased stress on the CV boots, potentially leading to premature wear or tearing over time. That would have impact on CV Axle Angles.

 

[RideWithYanu]

@b407driver

The front and rear still go onto the bumps post lift just as it did stock. Droop was measured at 5-3/4" with traction and 6" no traction (wheel spin) up front (did as a comparison to all dogs spacer eraser to show that it loses droop at only 3" post spring install) , haven't specifically measured the rear as it was quite clear it has more articulation. Essentially this setup is the complete opposite of most usual off the shelf lifts in that the a standard off the shelf coilover lift or just spring lift trades droop for lift. If the shock dimension are the same as stock your only change where in the shock travel your at so lift = lost droop.

If I take the same approach angle on that bank the front will hit the bump stop at the post lift angle it will also hit the bump but well before the rear unloads to full droop which is what I was looking at in those pics. I tested everything post lift for rubbing, binding, shocks bottoming out before engaging bump stops and brake lines being long enough, all is good.

Have you ever written out the parts list for your suspension setup? I’ll go find it if so. I’d like to hand it to my local installer and say “do this.” Would love to do the job myself but inner city street parking makes that a tough one.

 

[LCOceans]

I have been wanting to address this issue that keeps getting mentioned about a loss of suspension travel when you modify and add a lift. I have kept quiet because I am not nearly as knowledgeable as @Bad1975 and many others on here. I did the 2" Dobinsons MRR suspension. As stated, I love the drive with the lift. It drives better than stock. However as for loss of range of travel (up travel/down travel - articulation) on the new suspension, I was not certain. I had heard things from my installer and during my research leading up to adding these components about no loss of suspension travel, but until I was 100% certain I did not want to say it on this forum.

So I just called probably the most knowledgeable person I have ever spoken to about suspensions and modifications to the Land Cruiser....the owner of Exit Offroad. He confirms that at a 2" lift I have lost no travel, and probably gained a bit if anything. This because the struts and shocks are longer than OEM so as long as the lift is not too high (2" is sweet spot), then there is no loss with the Dobinsons.

Certainly not advocating everyone go lift their vehicle. Just trying to add clarity to an issue that keeps getting mentioned on here, and perhaps is holding some back. Just thoroughly research the modifications you are thinking of using.

 

[Area 51]

Its the American way.
If some is good,
More is better.

I have done very little to mine, its very very good as it comes except for the tires and spare gas requirements.
I think everyone knows how Soccer Momish they are and fights that.

 

[Impatient]

If you’re doing a lot of overlanding or trail driving you may want bigger tires. The other modifications are more about preference to me - personally I’ll stay stock other than the tires.

 

[Bad1975]

Have you ever written out the parts list for your suspension setup? I’ll go find it if so. I’d like to hand it to my local installer and say “do this.” Would love to do the job myself but inner city street parking makes that a tough one.

Dobinsons 2-3" GS Lift Kit | Toyota Land Cruiser 250 2024+ (#LC250GSKIT)​	1​	$2,990.95​
Dobinsons C59-818 Front Coil Springs Pair - Black (#C59-818B)​	1​	$270.00​
Dobinsons GS59-440 Front Struts Pair | LC250 LC300 GX550 (#GS59-440)​	1​	$350.00​
Dobinsons C59-885V Rear Coil Springs Pair - Black (#C59-885VB)​	1​	$270.00​
Dobinsons GS59-441 Pair of Rear Shocks | Sequoia LC300 LC250 GX550 (#GS59-441)​	1​	$310.00​
Dobinsons Billet Aluminum UCA's Pair | LX600 GX550 LC300 LC250 Tacoma (#UCA59-212K)​	1​	$975.00​
Icon 2024 Toyota LC250 / Tacoma Diff Drop Kit (#55160)​	1​	$230.95​
Dobinsons Rear Adjustable Panhard Rod Track Bar | Land Cruiser 200 250 300 GX550 (#PR59-1421)​	1​	$345.00​
Dobinsons Adjustable Rear Sway Bar Link Pair | SE59-591 (#SE59-591)​	1​	$200.00​
Dobinsons 15mm Rear Spacer | Tundra Sequoia LC250 LC300 Tacoma GX550 (#PS59-4035)​	1​	$40.00​
Dobinsons 15mm Rear Spacer | Tundra Sequoia LC250 LC300 Tacoma GX550 (#PS59-4035)​	1​	$40.00​

The Dobinsons UCA require pressing the old UCA ball joint out and pressing it into the new UCAs. It's recommended to replace the boots and the boot retaining rings. I reused mine which can be done if in good shape and your careful when removing.

I also painted all the shocks semi-gloss black and got a sticker pack to place stickers back onto the shocks after paint.

Dobinsons has their own diff drop kit now too.

 

[Bad1975]

I have been wanting to address this issue that keeps getting mentioned about a loss of suspension travel when you modify and add a lift. I have kept quiet because I am not nearly as knowledgeable as @Bad1975 and many others on here. I did the 2" Dobinsons MRR suspension. As stated, I love the drive with the lift. It drives better than stock. However as for loss of range of travel (up travel/down travel - articulation) on the new suspension, I was not certain. I had heard things from my installer and during my research leading up to adding these components about no loss of suspension travel, but until I was 100% certain I did not want to say it on this forum.

So I just called probably the most knowledgeable person I have ever spoken to about suspensions and modifications to the Land Cruiser....the owner of Exit Offroad. He confirms that at a 2" lift I have lost no travel, and probably gained a bit if anything. This because the struts and shocks are longer than OEM so as long as the lift is not too high (2" is sweet spot), then there is no loss with the Dobinsons.

Certainly not advocating everyone go lift their vehicle. Just trying to add clarity to an issue that keeps getting mentioned on here, and perhaps is holding some back. Just thoroughly research the modifications you are thinking of using.

Mike is awesome way more knowledgeable about the Dobinsons offering than the Dobinsons reps, he helped me on both the 40 and 250. Will probably switch the 80 over when things need replaced on it since the current setup is NL available, best lift setups I've ever had out of four other configurations. What's on the 80 now I'd say is probably nearly identical and works great (Australian kit) but just can't get everything anymore.

 

[RideWithYanu]

Dobinsons 2-3" GS Lift Kit | Toyota Land Cruiser 250 2024+ (#LC250GSKIT)​	1​	$2,990.95​
Dobinsons C59-818 Front Coil Springs Pair - Black (#C59-818B)​	1​	$270.00​
Dobinsons GS59-440 Front Struts Pair | LC250 LC300 GX550 (#GS59-440)​	1​	$350.00​
Dobinsons C59-885V Rear Coil Springs Pair - Black (#C59-885VB)​	1​	$270.00​
Dobinsons GS59-441 Pair of Rear Shocks | Sequoia LC300 LC250 GX550 (#GS59-441)​	1​	$310.00​
Dobinsons Billet Aluminum UCA's Pair | LX600 GX550 LC300 LC250 Tacoma (#UCA59-212K)​	1​	$975.00​
Icon 2024 Toyota LC250 / Tacoma Diff Drop Kit (#55160)​	1​	$230.95​
Dobinsons Rear Adjustable Panhard Rod Track Bar | Land Cruiser 200 250 300 GX550 (#PR59-1421)​	1​	$345.00​
Dobinsons Adjustable Rear Sway Bar Link Pair | SE59-591 (#SE59-591)​	1​	$200.00​
Dobinsons 15mm Rear Spacer | Tundra Sequoia LC250 LC300 Tacoma GX550 (#PS59-4035)​	1​	$40.00​
Dobinsons 15mm Rear Spacer | Tundra Sequoia LC250 LC300 Tacoma GX550 (#PS59-4035)​	1​	$40.00​

The Dobinsons UCA require pressing the old UCA ball joint out and pressing it into the new UCAs. It's recommended to replace the boots and the boot retaining rings. I reused mine which can be done if in good shape and your careful when removing.

I also painted all the shocks semi-gloss black and got a sticker pack to place stickers back onto the shocks after paint.

Dobinsons has their own diff drop kit now too.

Thank you!

 

[Bajacruzzer]

I’ll be taking by 58 to Baja California in April, box stock. Just like every other Toyota I’ve ever owned. I’ll be driving 120 plus miles of the dirt road they do the “Baja 1000” on. It’s all dirt from San Ignacio to San Juanico, look it up on a map. In thirty-five plus years I’ve never had a box stock Toyota fail me.

 

[Matthew@LC250Mods]

The mod bug just bites sometimes! For many, the OEM rake doesn't look ideal and for those looking to run larger tires, can also introduce rubbing. For many others, they prefer added height for aesthetics, clearance, or simply to run even larger tires. Many including myself don't care for how Toyota valves their shocks, and while there's no right or wrong answer to valving, there are definitely many different philosophies depending on the use-case. I think the LC250 excited me so much when it first came out because it's such a perfect clean slate for modifying!

 

[@Luke_Schnacke]

Hey all. New LC250 owner here with the Premium Package and stabilizer disconnect. I am honestly a little shocked by how many folks seem to start changing suspension components the moment they take delivery.

I totally get tires, skid plates, recovery points, and similar upgrades. But I am seeing a lot of spacer or collar lifts, leveling kits to remove rake, and full shock and coil swaps right away.

I am trying to understand why, especially on a platform Toyota clearly invested heavily in developing and validating for both on road manners and off road capability.

From what I have seen and what many suspension folks say, some of the quick and easy lift options, especially spacers and collars, can trade away things that matter off road and even on road.

They can worsen ride quality and increase harshness. They can reduce usable droop or travel depending on the setup. They can increase stress on angles such as CVs and ball joints and can introduce alignment compromises. They can also make the truck look taller without necessarily making it work better.

Watching videos like Tinker’s Adventure has also reinforced the idea that a lot of bolt on aftermarket changes can actually worsen off road performance rather than improve it.

For my part, I have done a bunch of trails already with zero drama using the factory locking differentials and the stabilizer disconnect. The only change I have made is a slightly upsized all terrain tire, Yokohama Geolandar A/T4 in 275 70R18.

So, genuine question for those who lifted or leveled immediately.

1. What problem were you solving? Clearance, tire fitment, load and weight, or a specific terrain or style?
2. Did you see an objective improvement in travel, control, traction, or stability, or was it mainly aesthetics?
3. If you did spacers or collars, do you feel any downside in ride or off road articulation?

Not trying to bash anyone’s build. I am trying to learn the reasoning behind the day one suspension trend on a brand new platform.

I'm an unusual use case being part of an aftermarket accessory brand, but with my "user" hat on, this is where it all started in 2018 with my 4Runner, 1) In every instance of upgrading supesnion from OEM, across all the makes and models I've done it in, every current and prior gen body on frame Toyota's (+ RAV4). Subaru, Jeep, Ford, Ram, the aftermarket provided a better driving experience. 2) Absolutely to carry more weight and still have a vehicle with safe handling characteristics 3) For the extra travel on the trail (Based in Oregon, so we have easy access to the wilderness and get out regularly).

 

[DeepDive]

I don’t disagree that I wouldn’t necessarily advocate modding the vehicle right out of the box. For me, I want to know what works and what doesn’t before I move forward on modifications. Now 18 months in, so I’m pretty confident that I at least have a semi-decent idea. Went with marginally bigger tires in the Nitto Terra Grappler 275s. Love ‘em, but given the standard clearance, I’d probably prefer 285s and a lift. Only other thing I’d need is a tire swing arm and a winch. Having said that, I do think the stock vehicles perform really well with no mods. Just depends on what you do. For me, I do a lot of moderate trails with an occasional intermediate. For someone doing more technical trails, I can completely understand why they’d want to mod right out of the gate. And yes, sometimes we just want the coolest looking rig on the block, so there’s that!

 

[RideWithYanu]

@b407driver

The front and rear still go onto the bumps post lift just as it did stock. Droop was measured at 5-3/4" with traction and 6" no traction (wheel spin) up front (did as a comparison to all dogs spacer eraser to show that it loses droop at only 3" post spring install) , haven't specifically measured the rear as it was quite clear it has more articulation. Essentially this setup is the complete opposite of most usual off the shelf lifts in that the a standard off the shelf coilover lift or just spring lift trades droop for lift. If the shock dimension are the same as stock your only change where in the shock travel your at so lift = lost droop.

If I take the same approach angle on that bank the front will hit the bump stop at the post lift angle it will also hit the bump but well before the rear unloads to full droop which is what I was looking at in those pics. I tested everything post lift for rubbing, binding, shocks bottoming out before engaging bump stops and brake lines being long enough, all is good.

@b407driver the data you requested from me on Reddit is available in this post Bad tagged you in previously.

 

[Nuke]

The thing is, IF I were a SERIOUS off-roader my attention would be on a GX550 Overtrail. Well, presuming I was confident the V-6 issue has been resolved.

 

[RideWithYanu]

The thing is, IF I were a SERIOUS off-roader my attention would be on a GX550 Overtrail. Well, presuming I was confident the V-6 issue has been resolved.

What aspects of the GX are more attractive to you for off-roading?

Edit to add: for me, the major stock to stock off-roading selling point of the GX is KDSS. The 250 wins on drivetrain (even assuming GX reliability - a big assumption) and geometry. GX Overtrail has a slight edge on ground clearance, but has significantly worse approach and departure angles. And the low-RPM torque of the iforcemax is the major differentiator. GX is the no-brainer choice for any use case that includes frequent deep-water fording, as the 250 is incapable here.

 

[Nuke]

What aspects of the GX are more attractive to you for off-roading?

Off the showroom floor the GX550 Overtrail has front AND rear swaybar disconnect, a tad more height, and arguably appropriate tires. Additionally, the rear differential is more robust.

 

[RideWithYanu]

Off the showroom floor the GX550 Overtrail has front AND rear swaybar disconnect, a tad more height, and arguably appropriate tires. Additionally, the rear differential is more robust.

All great points! I would love that disconnectable rear sway bar, and the factory tires on the 250 are pretty shite.