LC250 CV joints - Should I consider upgrading

My opinion is he definitely made the smart choice.
In the "boom" video, right after he blows up a tripod at 18:06, watch closely as he reverses, the front wheels lock up because he's braking in reverse on a steep descent, causing him to lose steering. Because he lost his steering downhill, he just pops off his fender. But in a more delicate situation, it could be really bad.

Disengaging Crawl Control on a steep trail is basically suicide, particularly if you use it uphill...

 
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Disengaging Crawl Control on a steep trail is basically suicide, particularly if you use it uphill...
Again, if you actually use crawl control on a steep reverse decline you may change your opinion!
 
Again, if you actually use crawl control on a steep reverse decline you may change your opinion!
I've only used it once in reverse (not muddy) and was impressed. Many factors involved of course for success with or without crawl control backing down. My fear is front coming around and rolling over. Seems like crawl control would be better than my left foot pushing pedal through firewall
 
Again, if you actually use crawl control on a steep reverse decline you may change your opinion!
I use crawl control in almost every genuine low traction scenario, whether I'm moving forward or backing up. The wheel spin management is far better than any driver could with the gas or brake pedal. It modulates each wheel individually, faster than manual input ever could. In fact, the Toyota traction control was one of the main reasons I bought a LC250, and it's a system that has evolved quite a lot over the last decade.
 
Themojavecruiser appears to have broken his CV and the transfer case moved enough to crack the upper oil pan. Or at least that is what the current theory is based on all the comments.


 
Broken axels are the name of the game folks. If you’re going to get into the rough stuff with IFS, this is inevitable.
Looks like the guy use 35" tires, it cost about 10% torque at the wheel, that's just gearing, no real stress there. The real issue is the 12.5" width: more grip means the tires hold ~20% more torque before slipping, so that extra load now goes straight through the axles and CV joints instead of just spinning the tire. Add the lift kit, which pushes the CV angle further than stock, and you've got two separate stress sources, more torque, worse angle, both hammering joints that were never rated for either.
Do that off-road with a heavy foot and premature failure isn't surprising, it's expected.
 
My guess is when the CV let loose, shrapnel cracked the brittle cast aluminum pan. Cant see the transfer case having anything to do with it.
Time for another skid plate!
 
If the UCAs are not adjustable in the correct way the CV shafts are at a steeper angle and can become worn quicker and in situations like this fellow break when they get over torqued up.
Expect more of the same.
Got educated by the best or at least one of the very best LC shops in the world yesterday.
A top rate shop knows what and how to prevent this with the proper parts.
Now just the torque vs big ole tires game, guess what, expect more of the same reports.
 
My guess is when the CV let loose, shrapnel cracked the brittle cast aluminum pan. Cant see the transfer case having anything to do with it.
Time for another skid plate!
That makes the most sense...just bad luck with the shrapnel hitting the oil pan.

I was on the fence with getting a diff drop but after all the recent CV videos, and two of them showing a cracked upper oil pan, I'm installing one ASAP.

On my LC i have the OME MT64s 3" and 35" tires. One thing that makes me worry is how soft and active the suspension is. The rear will squat a fair amount with acceleration. Now imagine crawling up something technical and steep, the front will unweight and be at full extension when under max torque. Max CV angle and max torque (n).

Has anyone, other than Dissent, successfully used the Tacoma CVs? Curious if they are plug and play or if they require some modifying to make everything work?
 
That makes the most sense...just bad luck with the shrapnel hitting the oil pan.

I was on the fence with getting a diff drop but after all the recent CV videos, and two of them showing a cracked upper oil pan, I'm installing one ASAP.

On my LC i have the OME MT64s 3" and 35" tires. One thing that makes me worry is how soft and active the suspension is. The rear will squat a fair amount with acceleration. Now imagine crawling up something technical and steep, the front will unweight and be at full extension when under max torque. Max CV angle and max torque (n).

Has anyone, other than Dissent, successfully used the Tacoma CVs? Curious if they are plug and play or if they require some modifying to make everything work?
IMG_8002.webp


Replaced my CVs with the Tacoma Trailhunter CVs and added a dobinsons diff drop kit last week. I can confirm that they were straight plug and play.

Did this partly because of the paranoia going around, but also because my oem CVs started clicking and clunking at no/low speed turns so they were likely on their way out. I’ll likely keep the OEs as spares.
 
View attachment 73780

Replaced my CVs with the Tacoma Trailhunter CVs and added a dobinsons diff drop kit last week. I can confirm that they were straight plug and play.

Did this partly because of the paranoia going around, but also because my oem CVs started clicking and clunking at no/low speed turns so they were likely on their way out. I’ll likely keep the OEs as spares.
Curious what mileage you were at when you started to get creaky/clunky CVs? And assuming new CVs resolved it?
 
Seconding the mileage request.

Also, are you at 3" front lift? Do you have the extended travel version of the dobinsons?
Do you mind sharing PNs for the Tacoma TH CVs? Apologies if it's already been posted or in the PNs thread.
 
Thirding the mileage request too, from Europe
 
I went the Lexus route, but it's maybe an illusion, I have the impression that the shaft between joints is largeur, I measured 1,25 inch at the smallest section or 31,6mm. I also don't understand why there is portion with a largeur diameter on that shaft?

IMG_8053.webp
 
View attachment 73780

Replaced my CVs with the Tacoma Trailhunter CVs and added a dobinsons diff drop kit last week. I can confirm that they were straight plug and play.

Did this partly because of the paranoia going around, but also because my oem CVs started clicking and clunking at no/low speed turns so they were likely on their way out. I’ll likely keep the OEs as spares.
You did the swap or a local shop? I'm down in MGH i'll probably pay a shop depending on the cost.
Where did you source the new tacoma CVs from?
 
I went the Lexus route, but it's maybe an illusion, I have the impression that the shaft between joints is largeur, I measured 1,25 inch at the smallest section or 31,6mm. I also don't understand why there is portion with a largeur diameter on that shaft?

View attachment 73822
It would make sense that the lexus are built stronger, would be nice to get a confirmation on this.
 
View attachment 73782

Different sides but here’s a photo of the oem vs upgraded Tacoma half shafts.
Upgraded is very questionable.
CV front axles.
I was at ZbZBZb this week getting the upgraded tank installed.
They understand pretty much everything there is to know about Land Cruisers.
They told me the mistake and reason longer CV axles are required is most of the UCAs are not adjustable in the correct way. They know and use the one that is.
The difference i see in your pictures is longer for the Tacoma version, not necessarily different ends or stronger.
So why Toyota supplies different CV axle shafts with the lift kits is becoming clearer.
 
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