LC250 CV joints - Should I consider upgrading
- Thread starter G0ebs
- Start date
From what I could find:
From the TRD 2.5" lift kit/TH/Pro ~$800
43410-AK020 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE RH
43420-AK020 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE LH
43410-60200 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE RH
43420-60260 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE LH
I can not confirm these fit.
RCV axle set ~$2500
CVJIFS-TOY10
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Maybe its a bigger problem than we realize at this early stage of soccer mom mobile conversion?
www.skinnypedalracing.com
rcvperformance.com
rcvperformance.com
Strongest axles on the planet.
I am liking this allot so far.
I will check with the best Land Cruiser custom builder in the world next week.
If its a yes, ill get a set and report back.
Not the LC 250s but you get my point, longer for lifted, is this a duh moment or what?
RCV Ultimate IFS CV Axles for Toyota Tundra are the Ultimate solution for those needing increased strength and higher angles for lifted suspensions. Using the same technology as our desert racing IFS use, these axles are designed to handle any type of abuse.
RCV Performance Ultimate IFS CV Axle Set — 2024 Toyota Tacoma / Land Cruiser 250
RCV CVJIFS-TOY10 — Ultimate IFS CV axle set for 2024 Toyota Tacoma & Land Cruiser 250. 300M internals, 35 spline 300M center bar, Dana 60 outboard architecture. Lifetime warranty.
www.skinnypedalracing.com
RCV Performance
rcvperformance.com
CVJIFS-TOY10 2024 TOYOTA TACOMA/LC 250 IFS AXLE SET
CVJIFS-TOY10 2024 TOYOTA 4RUNNER/TACOMA/LC 250 IFS AXLE SET
rcvperformance.com
I am liking this allot so far.
I will check with the best Land Cruiser custom builder in the world next week.
If its a yes, ill get a set and report back.
Not the LC 250s but you get my point, longer for lifted, is this a duh moment or what?
RCV Ultimate IFS CV Axles for Toyota Tundra are the Ultimate solution for those needing increased strength and higher angles for lifted suspensions. Using the same technology as our desert racing IFS use, these axles are designed to handle any type of abuse.
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Appreciate that. I swear I need to stop coming here because stuff gets added to shopping lists! Ignorance is bliss sometimes
Didn’t this best Land Cruiser shop on earth already tell you there’s a one and only CV to use? Which one do they use?Maybe its a bigger problem than we realize at this early stage of soccer mom mobile conversion?
RCV Performance Ultimate IFS CV Axle Set — 2024 Toyota Tacoma / Land Cruiser 250
RCV CVJIFS-TOY10 — Ultimate IFS CV axle set for 2024 Toyota Tacoma & Land Cruiser 250. 300M internals, 35 spline 300M center bar, Dana 60 outboard architecture. Lifetime warranty.
RCV Performance
Strongest axles on the planet.CVJIFS-TOY10 2024 TOYOTA TACOMA/LC 250 IFS AXLE SET
CVJIFS-TOY10 2024 TOYOTA 4RUNNER/TACOMA/LC 250 IFS AXLE SET
I am liking this allot so far.
I will check with the best Land Cruiser custom builder in the world next week.
If its a yes, ill get a set and report back.
Not the LC 250s but you get my point, longer for lifted, is this a duh moment or what?
RCV Ultimate IFS CV Axles for Toyota Tundra are the Ultimate solution for those needing increased strength and higher angles for lifted suspensions. Using the same technology as our desert racing IFS use, these axles are designed to handle any type of abuse.
Lift is ~ 3 inches on the dobinsons MRR kit. IIRC yes the extended travel version.
I’m just over 20k miles right now, but the LC has been lifted since it started its life with me and I wheeled it a bunch throughout those miles with the 3’ lift. I’m probably an outlier and don’t anticipate anyone’s axles to be making noises this early under normal / light use. Premature cv wear is kind of expected. I’ve since swapped out to the trailhunter CVs and added the dobinsons diff drop brackets to help with the cv angle and longevity on these new axles. Details on the inner joint design can be found discussed extensively on this thread and this thread.
Ordered these:
43410-AK020 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE RH
43420-AK020 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE LH
The “upgrade” is in the axle inner joint design, going from a tri-point to a double offset design that handles broader angles and smoother power delivery (claimed). The axle lengths are exactly the same for the replacement axles. My second photo is of two different sides, thus the length difference.
I had my local shop install. Getting them may be a bit tricky. I ordered them from Capitol Toyota in San Jose (with a 4g Tacoma vin), where they were priced very similarly to online sites at about ~400 a side. I ordered to be picked up from their parts department. Since then I’ve heard that these may have been put on a stop-sale, probably due to a bunch of people wanting them and them not being able to supply enough.
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Tinkerer also talks about the difference in inner joint design here @ 11:30.
Looking like the Tacoma Trail Hunter CV's are a solid choice.
A couple more thoughts on this:
A couple more thoughts on this:
- The more i look the more i see upper oil pans getting cracked with driver side CV failure.
- There is very little clearance between the front Diff and oil pan, just climb under your ride and stick your hand between the two. With a CV failure it appears the front diff, "which rides on mounts with rubber bushings", can flex and smack the oil pan.
- Do we know if any of these oil pan failures were running a front diff drop? There is quite a bit more clearance between the front diff and oil pan after the diff drop was installed on my LC. Also the ICON kit runs polyurethane bushings that don't seem to flex. Hopefully this would prevent an oil pan breakage....
- Tacoma Trail Hunter CV efficiency/wear
- Assuming the LC has the efficient Tri Pod design due to full time 4wd?
- The Tacoma does not have full time 4wd
- Do we know if the Tacoma CV's will handle full time 4wd with out premature wear?
LIke Bruce McGinest told me in race school, you break the motor, I'll buy you a coke....meaning, don't worry about breaking it till you do........as said above, transferring the forces to larger $$ ticket items doesn't seem a wise choice........breaking a CV joint, is like breaking an upright or a arm rather than damage a frame........some of those guys are showing off in videos....and it sells product, doesn't it?
The concern is not the CV, it's breaking the upper oil pan.
Yeah I’m interested in upgraded CVs, but I just keep coming back to one question: if the forces that could break a factory CV are allowed to be exceeded by installing upgraded CVs, what becomes the new sacrificial component?
The Land Cruiser brief (I’ve been really thinking about this in service to a special interest Land Cruiser history project) has always been simple, to “go out and come back.”
I have broken a CV myself, and in fact been able to drive it home broken. If I upgrade the CVs, can I still count on the truck to get me home if something else breaks? I’m just not sure.
The Land Cruiser brief (I’ve been really thinking about this in service to a special interest Land Cruiser history project) has always been simple, to “go out and come back.”
I have broken a CV myself, and in fact been able to drive it home broken. If I upgrade the CVs, can I still count on the truck to get me home if something else breaks? I’m just not sure.
I’ve been thinking about exactly the same thing. Normally I’d agree that strengthening the CV just moves the weak link downstream, potentially to something much more expensive and much harder to deal with on the trail.
What pushed me toward the Trailhunter CVs is that on the LC250, the factory CV doesn’t necessarily seem to fail cleanly as a sacrificial part. There have now been a few cases where a CV failure was accompanied by damage to the upper oil pan. The front diff sits incredibly close to it — roughly 1/2" on my truck — so a violent CV failure/diff movement can potentially turn a relatively manageable broken axle into a much bigger problem.
In my case I’m also at about 3" of lift on 35s, so CV angle is a legitimate concern. I’ve already installed the ICON diff drop, which improves the CV geometry, increases clearance between the diff and upper oil pan, and uses firmer bushings to limit diff movement.
The other thing that gives me some confidence is that the Trailhunter Tacoma and LC250 front differentials are essentially in the same strength class. Toyota is already pairing these stronger CVs with a comparable front diff in the Trailhunter, so I don’t think I’m necessarily creating an obviously undersized new weak link by putting the Trailhunter CVs in the LC250.
Could a stronger CV still transfer a big enough shock load downstream to damage the front diff? Absolutely. But I’d rather have a stronger CV operating at a better angle and be conscious about avoiding wheelspin/hookup shock loads than intentionally retain a weaker CV whose failure may take the upper oil pan with it.
To me, that still seems more consistent with the “go out and come back” philosophy.
Maybe! I believe the risk to the diff is higher from strengthening the CVs than it is from an exploding CV (which seems unlikely at most).
On the angles, have you not replaced the UCAs? The diff drop only addresses one end of the CV geometry issue. With a 3” lift corrected UCAs should be considered a must.
For number 2. the Taco CVs still spin all the time while in 2wd. No power is going to them though. If it is a concern, the GX CVs would be the best replacement then.
He said it on the air in his Tacoma TRD Pro vs build like me the idiot.
The video is lame and just making noise, however the one informative and pivotal moment is when he states:
The Land Cruisers are not intended to be lifted. Where do you think he got that? The CV descriptions are good and accurate as well.
So there you go boys and girls. At best you can screw up a really capable and wonderful Soccer mom Mobile or buy the correct vehicle if you want more than what a very lightly modified 250 is.
Everyone is starting to agree if you want serious off roadness, its still a solid axle vehicle that rules. Some of us already knew that going in.
The video is lame and just making noise, however the one informative and pivotal moment is when he states:
The Land Cruisers are not intended to be lifted. Where do you think he got that? The CV descriptions are good and accurate as well.
So there you go boys and girls. At best you can screw up a really capable and wonderful Soccer mom Mobile or buy the correct vehicle if you want more than what a very lightly modified 250 is.
Everyone is starting to agree if you want serious off roadness, its still a solid axle vehicle that rules. Some of us already knew that going in.
Without doubt solid front axle rules offroad for sheer capability and robustness. Also comparatively cheap and easy to add a high lift.
IfS rules in the rough road comfort department and highway driveability, but is problematic to lift and comparitively fragile.
I think many of us want the best of both worlds, and it will come down to compromising unless you're willing to throw big money at it.
I'm fortunate enough to have both, but i cant drive the lifted wrangler 1500 miles to moab, it would destroy my spine and hearing. So we'll take the LC to moab and stay on the kiddy trails that it can handle reliably.
Passenger side CV is the only CV that could get to the oil pan and I don't quite see how it's possible, it may indeed be the diff causing the damage?
Interesting discovery while looking at my CV's and getting some info for another member, the engine mounts are hydraulic and connected to engine vacuum and are ~$250 for the LH and $215 for the RH.
Interesting discovery while looking at my CV's and getting some info for another member, the engine mounts are hydraulic and connected to engine vacuum and are ~$250 for the LH and $215 for the RH.
My theory is that the Driver Side CV doesn't have the advantage of a longer axle, "Diff to CV" as the passenger side does. Maybe this shorter driver side delivers higher peak torque values when things start binding up. Kinda like using an impact gun with an exstension vs not. With the rubber Diff mounts and such a tight clearance to the upper oil pan, i would imagine that the diff must jolt upwards when a cv breaks? Also my theory is that a diff drop and properly torqued mounts should decrease the odds of this happening. But again, all theories...
I ordered both
43410-AK020 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE RH
43420-AK020 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE LH
And this is how they arrived. I feel like they are used. What are yall thoughts?
43410-AK020 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE RH
43420-AK020 SHAFT ASSY, FR DRIVE LH
And this is how they arrived. I feel like they are used. What are yall thoughts?
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