I'm not sure but I think that amazon light replaces the small cover, that covers the manual release in the hatch.
LC 1958 - 10k Miles. Are the Quirks Endearing or Fatal?
- Thread starter PC3
- Start date
Agreed. Weak design. However, I'm hoping to get one of the Amazon lights noted above, for Father's Day....Reports are good from what I've seen. Super easy install (into the existing cover plate, exactly where you'd want a light) if you have electric hatch, requires some wire routing if you have a 1958 (as I do), but is plug and play. No cutting or splicing required for either version. Assuming it works, well worth it for $45, but should have been included.
Instructions are included. For electric hatch lift, 10 minute job if you read the instructions for the first 5 minutes. Pop the cover, plug light in, test it, snap it into the hole. For manual hatch (1958), requires running wiring up right side of window, then to the center, then through the sleeve to the body, then to left side by jack access, plugging it in and putting everything back together. Far bigger job. I of course have the 1958. Have done a lot of recon, but haven't gotten around to ordering one yet.
For the power lift gate, does it install in place of the 2 close buttons? Do I lose those buttons with the new light added?
looks like it goes wheere the warning label is.
^^^ Nice call EOD ^^^
I have the 1958 and the amazon light works fine - only hard part was feeding the wire through the toyota sleeve between body and tailgate - I ended up using a zip tie as a fish for the wire which did the job - just took a few tries - make sure to round the point of the fip tie to avoid puncturing the rubber sleeve.
I have to ask. How did you get the cover off? I've been curious to take a look underneath.Not a proper engineer here, but I'll try to share some thoughts anyway:
1. Toyota went with nickel-metal hydride battery chemistry which is less power dense than lithium-ion battery i.e. if they went with the latter they could've get the same watt-hours capacity with less battery volume (roughly half of the volume) *
2. there is a bit of room between second row of sits and the battery and the trunk door, they could've use this space to make the battery thinner i.e. in l*w*h = v they could make w and l bigger and h smaller and still get the same battery volume **
summing 1 (better energy density) and 2 (flatter design) in result we could've get smaller "battery step"
* bla bla bla, more durable, wider temperature operating range (I don't 100% agree with that, since there are tons of EVs that are using lithium-ion chemistry and their batteries are not locatedmostlyinside the cabin)
** the space between battery and trunk door is likely a buffer to extend crumple zone in case the truck gets rear ended so it doesn't get on fire
summing 1 (better energy density) and 2 (flatter design) and ** (let's keep that extra crumple zone cause we don't want to get on fire) = we still could've get a tiny bit more trunk space that would be a bit less ugly.
my 2c
View attachment 26287
It's pretty simple process.
Remove the three cargo area, rear trays
Unbolt the cargo floor flip up cargo anchors.
Yank the cargo floor upwards to release the plastic fasteners.
Additional trim removal
Interior Trim Removal details are on my build page.
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