Land Cruiser Tire Upgrades?

I recently purchased a set of Toyo A/T III tires so you have my interest here. I have not heard many bad things really. Where were you driving to have those punctures and side wall issues? Very curious because they are not cheap as you say.
One was a mesquite thorn for sure from a hunting trip . One a small screw from the road. Not sure about this latest one.
 
Any upgrade to stay at stock 245/70 18, and not use Yokohama but still have a highway tire ? do not want off road or snow tires.
 
I’m pretty sure the offset in these is +60, and you may be disappointed to know Method doesn’t offer anything nearly this high. The closest I believe are their HD wheels with +40 and +35 for the others.
Damn. I’m gonna need to figure this out. I want to run the 275/70/18 and was really hoping to be able to use Mehod 703s.
 
hi, thks, i want to go also for the 275/70 R18 (BF KO3) on a 1958. I will do almost only off roads and i'd like to be sure i will have no rubbing issue whatsoever at full compression, turning, flex etc. As 7" stock rim are bearly in spec for a 275 wide tire, i am thinking going to a 8" rim and +60 offset instead of stock +70 offset. My idea is that it will prevent from any inside rubbing with suspension, but i am wondering if it could create external rubbing with the fender which is narrow on the 1958 version. As per you experience, do you still have enough space with the fender at full compression+turning with you 275/70 R18 stock +70 offset rims ? thks
I put the truck and the tires through its paces over the recent months and I LOVE the 275/70 R18 Ko3s on the stock 1958 rims. Absolutely no issues at all and honestly I really, REALLY like the looks and the functionality of the tires being tucked into the wheel wells. 100% recommend.
 
Damn. I’m gonna need to figure this out. I want to run the 275/70/18 and was really hoping to be able to use Mehod 703s.
You can use Methods with that tire size. With a +40 or +35 offset you
you will have no problems with that tire size.
 
Damn. I’m gonna need to figure this out. I want to run the 275/70/18 and was really hoping to be able to use Mehod 703s.
Those will fit fine on 0 or +35 offset 703s.
 
One was a mesquite thorn for sure from a hunting trip . One a small screw from the road. Not sure about this latest one.
Are they LT tires or P tires? Load range? This would make sense to me if they are P, with fewer plies and thinner sidewalls. If they are LT, that's pretty disappointing. I thought I'd try them in (P)275/70R18 for the weight savings, but have not fully tested them out in the pasture just yet. My LC is not my go-to offroader (yet).

My truck has BFG KO3s and they are fantastic tires. They're on a small diesel so I don't need them to be light for any reason.

Those pesky mesquite thorns will get ya good! I feel your pain. 😓
 
Are they LT tires or P tires? Load range? This would make sense to me if they are P, with fewer plies and thinner sidewalls. If they are LT, that's pretty disappointing. I thought I'd try them in (P)275/70R18 for the weight savings, but have not fully tested them out in the pasture just yet. My LC is not my go-to offroader (yet).

My truck has BFG KO3s and they are fantastic tires. They're on a small diesel so I don't need them to be light for any reason.

Those pesky mesquite thorns will get ya good! I feel your pain. 😓
They are P-metric.

I completely understand the point that an E-rated tire can be tougher, but it’s important to remember what the E actually represents. The “E” is a load rating, not a puncture rating. It means the tire is engineered to carry more weight at higher pressures, which usually requires a heavier carcass and a much stiffer sidewall, sometimes with additional plies. But that doesn’t automatically translate into better puncture resistance.

Some P-metric A/Ts have far more robust sidewall and belt construction than others. My P-metric KO2s have taken the same ranch and lease roads for almost twenty years without a single non-repairable puncture. My wife’s GX is on P-metric KO2s with the same results.


And on a vehicle like the LC250, the factory suspension is tuned around lighter P-metric or XL tires. Moving to an E-load tire adds significant unsprung weight which changes how the suspension reacts to bumps. It’s a viable option, but it comes with tradeoffs.


To me, the issue seems less about choosing SL versus E, and more about the Toyo A/T III’s construction being noticeably weaker than is appropriate for a true AT tire and I want to warn folks.

That being said, I will definitely do some more research..

Yes, those darn thorns!
 
They are P-metric.

I completely understand the point that an E-rated tire can be tougher, but it’s important to remember what the E actually represents. The “E” is a load rating, not a puncture rating. It means the tire is engineered to carry more weight at higher pressures, which usually requires a heavier carcass and a much stiffer sidewall, sometimes with additional plies. But that doesn’t automatically translate into better puncture resistance.

Some P-metric A/Ts have far more robust sidewall and belt construction than others. My P-metric KO2s have taken the same ranch and lease roads for almost twenty years without a single non-repairable puncture. My wife’s GX is on P-metric KO2s with the same results.


And on a vehicle like the LC250, the factory suspension is tuned around lighter P-metric or XL tires. Moving to an E-load tire adds significant unsprung weight which changes how the suspension reacts to bumps. It’s a viable option, but it comes with tradeoffs.


To me, the issue seems less about choosing SL versus E, and more about the Toyo A/T III’s construction being noticeably weaker than is appropriate for a true AT tire and I want to warn folks.

That being said, I will definitely do some more research..

Yes, those darn thorns!
Love my E rated AT3. Have them on two of my landcruisers and I do plenty of off roading and no problems. But each their own experience. I know these forums are mostly complaints.
 
They are P-metric.

I completely understand the point that an E-rated tire can be tougher, but it’s important to remember what the E actually represents. The “E” is a load rating, not a puncture rating. It means the tire is engineered to carry more weight at higher pressures, which usually requires a heavier carcass and a much stiffer sidewall, sometimes with additional plies. But that doesn’t automatically translate into better puncture resistance.

Some P-metric A/Ts have far more robust sidewall and belt construction than others. My P-metric KO2s have taken the same ranch and lease roads for almost twenty years without a single non-repairable puncture. My wife’s GX is on P-metric KO2s with the same results.


And on a vehicle like the LC250, the factory suspension is tuned around lighter P-metric or XL tires. Moving to an E-load tire adds significant unsprung weight which changes how the suspension reacts to bumps. It’s a viable option, but it comes with tradeoffs.


To me, the issue seems less about choosing SL versus E, and more about the Toyo A/T III’s construction being noticeably weaker than is appropriate for a true AT tire and I want to warn folks.

That being said, I will definitely do some more research..

Yes, those darn thorns!
Yep, you're right on all counts! E load is a bit thicker - generally speaking from what I've read - but certainly not designed as puncture deterrent. More of an incidental benefit, if at all. I've seen arguments about this topic for a while, which is why I posed the question.

Either way, I do my best to keep the tires away from mesquites. Some of those thorns are gnarly!!!

I got the EV tires, so it's not a perfect comparison. I do believe the compound used is different. Hopefully they wear evenly. We'll see... Can't go wrong with BFGs imho.
 
Love my E rated AT3. Have them on two of my landcruisers and I do plenty of off roading and no problems. But each their own experience. I know these forums are mostly complaints.
Yeah, sorry if it comes off as a rant, but it’s been an expensive mistake! They are not cheap.

Good to know about your experience!

So no unexpected punctures with the E rated version?

How does it ride?
 
Yeah, sorry if it comes off as a rant, but it’s been an expensive mistake! They are not cheap.

Good to know about your experience!

So no unexpected punctures with the E rated version?

How does it ride?
I have not punctured them but I only have sharp rocks to compare to (PNW). The E rated version rides fine. I couldn't tell difference between stock and E rated for ride quality. The only caveat is you keep them around 35psi. If you go to 45 psi for example it is harsh. I have over 25k on them and still look new. My only other complaint is really wet roads they sometimes slip at first until they warm up. Great in snow!

IMG_0714.webp
 
Yep, you're right on all counts! E load is a bit thicker - generally speaking from what I've read - but certainly not designed as puncture deterrent. More of an incidental benefit, if at all. I've seen arguments about this topic for a while, which is why I posed the question.

Either way, I do my best to keep the tires away from mesquites. Some of those thorns are gnarly!!!

I got the EV tires, so it's not a perfect comparison. I do believe the compound used is different. Hopefully they wear evenly. We'll see... Can't go wrong with BFGs imho.
When I was living in Austin area we would take our rigs out to hill country to my buddies ranch and the mesquite thorns just killed our tires. They are tire killers for sure. 🛞🪦
 
For anyone who has replaced their tires, were you able to fit all 4 of the stock tires in the back to bring home? Or two trips?
Two trips, wasn't going to risk messing up our interior
 
Anyone have pics of 34/10.5 x 18s on the OEM rims? Preferably with the Westcott lift? Thinking of keeping the 18” OEM wheels rather than dropping down to a 17” but wanted to see how the taller tire looks on the OEM rims. FE wheels.

Or do they even make this tire..

Thanks in advance!
 
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For anyone who has replaced their tires, were you able to fit all 4 of the stock tires in the back to bring home? Or two trips?
I had all 5 tires wheels and tires replaced and was able to get all of them into the back without issue. The tire shop bagged all the originals up nicely to protect the interior, and they did have 3 people loading them to try and place everything in as gently as possible.

I fully expected to have to make a second trip, but there is actually a lot more room in these vehicles than I imagined, especially with how much people seem to complain about the hybrid battery taking up all of the cargo room.
 
I had all 5 tires wheels and tires replaced and was able to get all of them into the back without issue. The tire shop bagged all the originals up nicely to protect the interior, and they did have 3 people loading them to try and place everything in as gently as possible.

I fully expected to have to make a second trip, but there is actually a lot more room in these vehicles than I imagined, especially with how much people seem to complain about the hybrid battery taking up all of the cargo room.
Same for us, but since the first swap I got a cheap hitch mount cargo carrier. It easily fits all five wheels w/tires and makes the winter/summer swap easier for everyone.
 
Anyone have pics of 34/10.5 x 18s on the OEM rims? Preferably with the Westcott lift? Thinking of keeping the 18” OEM wheels rather than dropping down to a 17” but wanted to see how the taller tire looks on the OEM rims. FE wheels.

Or do they even make this tire..

Thanks in advance!
They make a 34/12.5R18 but not 10.5" in the 18" wheel
 
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