Land Cruiser Tire Upgrades?

I can't seem to find an LC base trim (non 1958) that comes with 18" wheels so I may have to end up settling for 20" wheels. What is my best strategy with changing the tires to KO3 or Toyo A/T3? size the wheel down or try to hunt down some Toyo A/T 3 XL or buy aftermarket 18" wheels and buying tires accordingly?

If you stick with 20” wheels you can get 275/60R20 tires. I kept my 20” wheels and run that size winter tire on them. If you do a lot of off-roading, 18” wheels are probably a better idea. My signature has a link to a spreadsheet with wheel (and tire) options (that only appears if you’re on a computer, not on the mobile site for some reason).
 
Not true. The ones he pictured are the AT3W that comes on the Tundra and Sequoia TRD Pros. They do have 1 or 2 /32” less original tread (I’m 99% sure), but they are otherwise a true AT3 (at least in comparison to other OE Wildpeak offerings). A distinction only true for the Pros.

Agreed on the AT3Wa that comes on the TRD ORs though. The wife’s Sequoia chewed through a set really quickly (3/32” @ just 16k miles).

Older photos from when I did the swap on my 1958, but a side-by-side of the two below. Up top is the 3a on my better half’s TRD OR. Below is my 3W Pro swaps.

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Thanks Dub & good catch on the TRD Pro Model. - I put aftermarket AT3W from discount tire on my wife’s ‘23 Sequoia Limited OR, but that launch year the TRD Off Road pkgs came w/ 18” rims. They were a big upgrade & dramatically better tire than the lame Michelin OE stock tire. Toyota is still doing the crappy A/T3Wa in 2026 & there are lot of them as takeoffs for sale.
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Thanks @GR8Santini . Are your GX550 rims 20x7.5 then? I should have mentioned that I'm planning to use Tundra take offs that are 20x8 rims, so 1/2 inch wider than stock, and was wondering about that. I guess I can ask the tire shop to do a fitment test.
The answer to your question relies heavily on the wheel’s offset. The LC’s OEM 20” wheel is a +60mm offset. Offset is the measurement of hub to wheel centerline (dead center of the tire). If your 8” wide wheel shared the +60mm offset, the inner edge of the rim would be .25” closer to the steering and suspension components. The lower the offset, the further it would get from those components. This is a moot point though, because the width of the tire will exceed the width of the wheel. Because the offset is measured at centerline, the tire will not be any closer to causing a fitment issue if offset is the same. So, 7”, 7.5”, 8”, 8.5”… none of it really matters for fitment unless that offset is crazy.
 
Bigcat - If your Tundra rims you’re getting are OE (stock not aftermarket) you should be fine.

TRD Off-Road: 20x8.5, ~+50mm offset
1794 Edition & Platinum: 20x8, +60mm offset

They will take 265 or 275/60R20 tires just fine on a LC. Just make sure to get the lighter SL rated & not E load for trucks if you want to keep decent MPG.
 
I can't seem to find an LC base trim (non 1958) that comes with 18" wheels so I may have to end up settling for 20" wheels. What is my best strategy with changing the tires to KO3 or Toyo A/T3? size the wheel down or try to hunt down some Toyo A/T 3 XL or buy aftermarket 18" wheels and buying tires accordingly?
OEM 18” wheels come available from time to time. You just have to be patient.
 
The answer to your question relies heavily on the wheel’s offset. The LC’s OEM 20” wheel is a +60mm offset. Offset is the measurement of hub to wheel centerline (dead center of the tire). If your 8” wide wheel shared the +60mm offset, the inner edge of the rim would be .25” closer to the steering and suspension components. The lower the offset, the further it would get from those components. This is a moot point though, because the width of the tire will exceed the width of the wheel. Because the offset is measured at centerline, the tire will not be any closer to causing a fitment issue if offset is the same. So, 7”, 7.5”, 8”, 8.5”… none of it really matters for fitment unless that offset is crazy.

Bigcat - If your Tundra rims you’re getting are OE (stock not aftermarket) you should be fine.

TRD Off-Road: 20x8.5, ~+50mm offset
1794 Edition & Platinum: 20x8, +60mm offset

They will take 265 or 275/60R20 tires just fine on a LC. Just make sure to get the lighter SL rated & not E load for trucks if you want to keep decent MPG.
Thanks guys. Appreciate the feedback. Sounds like I'm good to go. Yes, it's Toyota OEM wheels taken from a Tundra Limited, 20x8, +60mm offset; with (potentially) 275/60R20 Dueler AT Ascents (SL 115T)
 
I just replaced the OEM Michelin ATX’s’s with 5 Bridgestone Dueler AT Ascent tires on Miss Daisy. I have only put about 450 miles on them since new, and I haven’t seen as good of MPG yet as I did with the Michelin ATX’s, but pretty close. I have a few significant trips coming up, that I have made many times in the past, so I will be looking closely at MPG obtained.

The AT Dueler’s ride almost identical to the Michelin ATX’s, and are almost as quiet as the Michelins ATX’s. But the road noise is slightly different than that of the Michelin’s, which sounded like passenger car tires on the tarmac. The AT Dueler’s not so much.

I haven’t put them to the test off-road yet, but am trying to find someplace close to me to do so. If push comes to shove, I can travel to get to some off-road trails, or even to Daytona Beach where I grew up.. Lots of vehicles are getting stuck on the sandy beach nowadays. If I get stuck, I can always get Sand Tow to help me get unstuck.

Does anyone know how low I can go when I air down the Dueler’s on OEM rims?
On just about any tire you can safely go down to 18-20psi. For sand you might need to go lower if it's very fine. The lower you go the more conservative you need to be with your driving, especially turning. Start at 20, if you're struggling, go down to 15. You can go lower still, but risk of tire coming off rim gets higher exponentially. You need a good tire inflator with you and shovel is highly recommended. Hands work too if youre not in a hurry. Also, if youre sinking, stop, lower pressures, and start digging. If you drop down onto the frame youre in for a long sweaty day.

Edit, you need a precise tire pressure gauge, i use joe's racing gauge.
 
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On just about any tire you can safely go down to 18-20psi. For sand you might need to go lower if it's very fine. The lower you go the more conservative you need to be with your driving, especially turning. Start at 20, if you're struggling, go down to 15. You can go lower still, but risk of tire coming off rim gets higher exponentially. You need a good tire inflator with you and shovel is highly recommended. Hands work too if youre not in a hurry. Also, if youre sinking, stop, lower pressures, and start digging. If you drop down onto the frame youre in for a long sweaty day.

Edit, you need a precise tire pressure gauge, i use joe's racing gauge.
@ultane I second this. I've run Dueler ATs on my TJR down to 18-20psi on the soft OBX beaches without issue. Deformation on SL loads occurs pretty early as you air down. I've been getting by on 25psi with my current setup, and the northern OBX sands I drive on have been super soft until the recent rains came through. I still recommend 20 as the best starting point until you get comfortable. While the LC is a beast on sand, it is a very heavy rig that ruts easily. I'm comfortable enough that I don't chase lines, but if I weren't I would start there. That Dueler line is very underappreciated IMO, always preferred them to the Duratracs my buddies were running on their rigs. You'll be fine and it won't be the tire that gets you stuck.

The thing that gets no attention when discussing beach driving is the impact of sand on brakes and flexing components. Whatever airup tool you use (I use a portable Ryobi high pressure inflator), remember to blow out your pads/rotors and suspension as well. For this reason I always have enough batteries to air up all 5 tires and an extra to use with the blowout attachment. For a gage I rely on my ARB E-Z deflate (analogue gage valve stem removal setup).
 
OEM 18” wheels come available from time to time. You just have to be patient.
I bought 5 takeoff like new OEM LC (standard) wheels off eBay. They are beautiful and price was good. Tough to beat Toyota quality components. Some of eBay sellers actually rate takeoff wheels for damage, mine are essentially perfect. The 18’s are quite a bit lighter than stock 20’s I bought it with. Lighter 18’s Offsets some of added wt of the heavier AT4W’s SL tires I put on them (interesting that the new LTC AT4We is lighter than my SL AT4W in 265 70 18, LTC also has a narrower actual tread width as well. These SL ‘s are pretty rugged, love them. Seems like a decent increase in toughness vs Nitto G3’s I had on my previous Ranger Tremor (though I had no issues with Nitto’s, they were great tires, but I wanted to go a bit heavier duty this time). Nitto’s were definitely a bit more road focused. The AT4W SL Also has a bit higher UTQG (longer life).

Maybe lost 0.5 mpg, but still low mileage so not sure, lifetime average now 20.8 with a decent amount of light towing (1400 lb single waverunner 1800 HO beast!) miles this summer in the mix. I haven’t done really any off roading yet with this rig 😔, dirt roads only and moving trailer way down off camber sloped side yard to park (almost nerve wracking). Great traction, no tearing up grass.
 
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