OP
OP
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OK I googled but what the heck does "neck filling" mean?
Gas cans on roof
- Thread starter mmmhhhmmmmmm
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Not sure that's a real term, but he means topping off the tank after the pump stops, filling fuel up into the filler neck.
As @Mtn40 states, and it will ruin your charcoal canister.. which is a costly mistake..
Sure enough is!! I replaced one on my 2008 Tundra many years ago because I was doing the same thing on road trips…..but hey that 8 inch lift and 37s were hungry for fuel and any extra fuel at 11-12 MPG meant I could get an extra 10-12 miles out of the fill up…LOL!!
OK, some pretty hard data from the trip.
Pic 1 is miles I clocked. edit: BTW, that was ~3+ miles from house so the 373 mile typical pretty darn close!
368 mi at 22.9mpg indicated. That would be 16.07 gallons, leaving ~1.8 gallons if we believe 17.9 gal tank. Remaining range was bout 38mi! Passed several cars from 55-85mph btw.
So 368+38=406mi range at indicated. If we believe that 38mi remaining, at 22.9mpg that would be about 1.66 gallons more till zero range. My initial #said 1.8 gallons left, hmmm. To the gas station....eventually
Pic 1 is miles I clocked. edit: BTW, that was ~3+ miles from house so the 373 mile typical pretty darn close!
368 mi at 22.9mpg indicated. That would be 16.07 gallons, leaving ~1.8 gallons if we believe 17.9 gal tank. Remaining range was bout 38mi! Passed several cars from 55-85mph btw.
So 368+38=406mi range at indicated. If we believe that 38mi remaining, at 22.9mpg that would be about 1.66 gallons more till zero range. My initial #said 1.8 gallons left, hmmm. To the gas station....eventually
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I didn't know what else to call topping-off-until-no-more-gas-will-fit and balked at typing it! I incorrectly assumed people would get the fuel filler neck association. Apologies for any confusion
I overbuilt my RotopaX mounts- there is a Backwoods Adventures Driftr Roof Rack Accessory Panel that provides a continuous flat surface and carries a RotopaX Deluxe Mount. The Accessory Panels were drilled to accept M10 Threaded fasteners outside the RotopaX footprint that carry a Unistrut bridge that serves as a mount for my traction boards. The traction boards also serve to shade and slightly protect the RotopaX cans. If I had it to do over, I'd strongly consider the molle's
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You knew you were going to be close!
Plus, if the THEORY holds, any fuel above (overfill) the 17.9 level goes to solving the missing 1.8-1.66=0.14G?
Now see what she really holds at 2nd click. That's right, another 1.5 gallons. Pretty typical. I have seen 2.1 gal at the uber high fill rate Costco pumps. Yes I was at 396 miles!. So the hard math is 396÷16.9= 23.4mpg! I still had 6 miles remaining and supposedly a gallon left in the tank. That would mean real range at least almost 420 miles. Now wonder if I was in that 2.5 gallon fuel pump well yet!?? Point is she goes A lot farther if you fill it properly. In this case 23×1.5=34+ miles! When I realized I'd EASILY cross 400 miles, I didn't bother....you range anxiety folks typically give up 1-2 gal worth of range......I am now even more than content....
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Brilliant!
Details here- 25-trail-dust-premium
Original theory had DTE=0 as the top of the 2.5G. If that is true-
- 1st click at 2.5 + 15.4 = 17.9 (23 x 17.9=411.7 range)
- 2nd click at 2.5 + 16.9 = 19.4 (23 x 19.4=446.2 range) seems a little hard to believe
- What does DTE show after the 16.9 fill up? (Same question for 15.4 level too, if possible)
- Provided your ready to get driving immediately and risk your carbon canister, fill to the neck and find the distance in gallons between the 16.9 fill up and the neck. My best guess is that you'll find little room between the neck and the 16.9 fill up
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If you look at the filler pipe, I bet that isn't much more than a quart. Its not the volume, its the affects of gravity that would drive that fuel into the bad places.
Takeaway points.
1. I was driving normally. 75-80 mph. About 120 miles of the trip is at 80. MPG definitely drops 1+mpg at 80 at the total trip. In normal mode btw
2. She drives far more efficiently than most believe esp left in stock form and esp now that it is broken in.
3. Factory highway rating is 25mpg and readily achievable at 65mph. Those complaining have no justification.
4. If I am close, even at zero range remaining, there is based on that 17.9 gallon figure as no way it can be less, there is AT LEAST a 10 mile buffer.
When someone really runs it dry and fills properly, we will see how much more it really has. Was I already 1 .5 gallons into the 2.5gallon reservoir at a 16.9 gallon fill if total was really 17.9 gallons,
or
Was there still 1 gallon in the tank and in addition there is a 2.5 gallon reservoir for the fuel pump?
DTE numbers rarely reflect last tank btw, meaning the total expected miles from full. It is an algorithm based on overall numbers. I see this all the time in different vehicles. It only becomes real on longer trips when it is adjusting to the current driving conditions.
Driving in sport mode kills fuel economy so that data is useless and unwise/unneccesary on highway. No complaining allowed. I suppose Eco mode can eek out a bit more, not gonna bother with that as I want my motor to rev periodically.
If folks learn nothing else from this, 1st click , IMHO, is not full and is stealing useful range. Full is not stuffed to the neck (according to the EPA filling protocol). Peace.
As a 64yr old that grew up in the thirsty vehicle era, I am impressed what these big vehicles can now do.
My 1st car was a 1974 Buick LeSabre Coupe with a 455. (14 mpg was typical at 65mph!)
Think my 1978 Accord could get 25-28mpg???
My 1st SUV was a Montero, and with only 140Hp could get ~??15-18 mpg??
In 4wd, my 1994 Montero SR dropped to 12.5mpg! in auto maybe 15mpg. Thirsty motor with a great top end (DOHC). The last great Montero!!
2006 Tribeca ~21mpg
2011 BMW X5d--onlyy 22-23mpg in winter, 25-26 in summer. Diesel myth proved.
2016 Range Rover Sport 3.0SC 20-21mpg (tuned to 456/412)
2021 Range Rover Westminster (3.0TT) 21mpg summer, in winter with snows, fought to get 20mpg.
Last winter with less than 5000 miles on it, the LC dropped into the 18-19 zone a few times thanks to some killer headwinds. Typicall got 20mpg+. Past 2 trips it has gotten 22-23+ mpg. Now the last little detail....this last most efficient trip ever was on freshly changed 5W-30 oil!!!!!! hehe Even the wife can hear how much smoother the motor sounds! Long live HTHS!!!!!
Takeaway points.
1. I was driving normally. 75-80 mph. About 120 miles of the trip is at 80. MPG definitely drops 1+mpg at 80 at the total trip. In normal mode btw
2. She drives far more efficiently than most believe esp left in stock form and esp now that it is broken in.
3. Factory highway rating is 25mpg and readily achievable at 65mph. Those complaining have no justification.
4. If I am close, even at zero range remaining, there is based on that 17.9 gallon figure as no way it can be less, there is AT LEAST a 10 mile buffer.
When someone really runs it dry and fills properly, we will see how much more it really has. Was I already 1 .5 gallons into the 2.5gallon reservoir at a 16.9 gallon fill if total was really 17.9 gallons,
or
Was there still 1 gallon in the tank and in addition there is a 2.5 gallon reservoir for the fuel pump?
DTE numbers rarely reflect last tank btw, meaning the total expected miles from full. It is an algorithm based on overall numbers. I see this all the time in different vehicles. It only becomes real on longer trips when it is adjusting to the current driving conditions.
Driving in sport mode kills fuel economy so that data is useless and unwise/unneccesary on highway. No complaining allowed. I suppose Eco mode can eek out a bit more, not gonna bother with that as I want my motor to rev periodically.
If folks learn nothing else from this, 1st click , IMHO, is not full and is stealing useful range. Full is not stuffed to the neck (according to the EPA filling protocol). Peace.
As a 64yr old that grew up in the thirsty vehicle era, I am impressed what these big vehicles can now do.
My 1st car was a 1974 Buick LeSabre Coupe with a 455. (14 mpg was typical at 65mph!)
Think my 1978 Accord could get 25-28mpg???
My 1st SUV was a Montero, and with only 140Hp could get ~??15-18 mpg??
In 4wd, my 1994 Montero SR dropped to 12.5mpg! in auto maybe 15mpg. Thirsty motor with a great top end (DOHC). The last great Montero!!
2006 Tribeca ~21mpg
2011 BMW X5d--onlyy 22-23mpg in winter, 25-26 in summer. Diesel myth proved.
2016 Range Rover Sport 3.0SC 20-21mpg (tuned to 456/412)
2021 Range Rover Westminster (3.0TT) 21mpg summer, in winter with snows, fought to get 20mpg.
Last winter with less than 5000 miles on it, the LC dropped into the 18-19 zone a few times thanks to some killer headwinds. Typicall got 20mpg+. Past 2 trips it has gotten 22-23+ mpg. Now the last little detail....this last most efficient trip ever was on freshly changed 5W-30 oil!!!!!! hehe Even the wife can hear how much smoother the motor sounds! Long live HTHS!!!!!
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LOL - True.
I had a 2003 Land Rover Discovery for 17 years (my daughter drove it the last 6). With a lift and HD bumpers it got 11mpg on premium gas.
I now get 23 around town in the LC (just traded in a Chevy Colorado diesel that got 21 (28 on the hwy)).
I learned long ago that worrying about mpg on a vehicle that is aerodynamic as a brick is a fool's errand.
Agree w/ a bunch of what you said.
- Don’t think your 1st click has much merit in my experience. Those filler nozzles aren’t calibrated to do anything but sense an air Venturi lose vacuum & shut off. Any splash & it triggers. Some pumps push more fuel @ higher volume than others. I’ve filled 5 racing fuel containers lined up on a tailgate & click happens different on each one. I guess if your using same pump same day it aligns in your methodology. Many gas station pumps meter different pump volumes depending on how much storage gas the tank has, & how many people are pumping at once.
- if it helps in the LC conversation, after swapping my Tundra tank from 22G to 32G, & filling the new one from empty, total fuel amount on it did include the fuel pump well in the total.
- Sport statement it never helps mpg isn’t an absolute. It can very much help keep the T24A from lugging in certain conditions. Notice when the engine starts lugging the boost comes up. Using more gas. Any driving pattern reducing the amount of boost can help mpg. Find rolling hills, etc. cause our LC to go backwards on mpg w/ lugging.
Finally someone speaks about the missing fact. You've been holding out on us!!!! That says a lot!
Regarding the first click--->I have NEVER used that technique to fill any vehicle. Like you say, it is completely random and can vary by a couple of gallons. I have ALWAYS filled the way I described above, always. I have rarely mistakenly overfilled, don't we all??? but 90% of the time vehicle immediately was driven. At track we pretty much all fill till we hear /see gas.......but it goes on track within an hour.......never had a track guy lose a charcoal canister...........
Whatever mode I'm using at 75-80 mph driving with terrain varying from flats to mile long inclines and declines, passing vehicles etc, 23+mpg is amazing from my perspective! Supposedly the Battery is for power but it obviously helps in every way. Now if I could only leave cruise on and downshift to 7th to prevent hunting on long grades...I have my known areas I did this for years on other vehicles......something Toyota could/should change in the tranny programming. Currently, Cruise is cancelled....stupid. Classic case of programmers not being drivers.
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can't you just select sport mode for the hills? i dont think it cancels the CC. Keeps out off of 8th gear from my experience, seems limited to 7th.
When in Sport mode, it appears to be speed dependent what gear the transmission lands on when shifting into manual mode (sliding the shifter to the left). Lower speeds can be to 3rd or 4th gear, at highway speeds it can be 6th or 7th. You can use either the Constant Speed Cruise or Adaptive Cruise while in Sport Mode. With distance in Sport the LC eventually goes to 8th gear on its own. If not soon enough, I can manually shift it into 8th. I admit mine does like to stay in 7th while in Sport Mode.
One major difference - The shifting logic in Drive is so much better in Sport mode, over Normal or Eco. I like when decelerating for a stoplight the LC often downshifts & seems to be in a better gear & assists w/ engine braking & yet is in a better gear should the light go green.
One major difference - The shifting logic in Drive is so much better in Sport mode, over Normal or Eco. I like when decelerating for a stoplight the LC often downshifts & seems to be in a better gear & assists w/ engine braking & yet is in a better gear should the light go green.
When shifting from auto to manual shifting, doesn’t it just stay in whatever gear it had you in when you bump over into manual?
