On our ‘26 Premium when in Sport Mode & sliding selector to left for Manual tranny drops down a gear or two.
Gas cans on roof
- Thread starter mmmhhhmmmmmm
- Start date
Are OBDII readers like ScanGaugeIII able to show current gear as one of their displays?
No sir, at least on our ‘26 Premium @ 50mph in either Normal or Eco modes & moving selector to Manual mode takes the tranny from D8 to M6.
In Sport @ 50mph tranny is holding in D7, & going Manual drops from D7 to D6. I noticed tonight once above 60mph Sport appears to go into D8 in Drive or Manual. Most of the time I run her LC in Sport Mode in Drive so it can get up & go & not lug around. Wife does some business home health visits & often stays in ECO for slow city driving.
Will try again. It didn't seem to work last time but pretty new vehicle...Thanks for the reminder!
My understanding of Cruise control systems over the past MANY years is they use the most efficient shift logic. Maybe LC will hold gears a bit more in Sport with Cruise on.....of course it will with cruise off. But if you bump shifter over to manual in any drive mode, it cancels cruise control which is silly because we have had cruise on manual trannied cars for 50+ years!!
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I find on both on my LC & Tundra moving the shift selector into manual or back to auto in Sport, Normal or,Eco has no effect on cruise control if it’s engaged. Seem to work independently.
I find Sport mode also firms up/stiffens the steering weight, on top of sharpening throttle response, & setting the tranny to hold gears longer, & downshifting better. Sport feels much better than Normal or Eco to me.
Come to the dark side - Try it & you just might really like it!
I find Sport mode also firms up/stiffens the steering weight, on top of sharpening throttle response, & setting the tranny to hold gears longer, & downshifting better. Sport feels much better than Normal or Eco to me.
Come to the dark side - Try it & you just might really like it!
Either cruise mode engaged, if I shift to manual shift mode, Cruise control cancels. I will try again today. Never had a vehicle do this before.
I tried CC, both kinds, in all 3 modes yesterday. If Cruise engaged and you move shifter to manual mode, cruise cancels. If you are in manual shift mode, any drive mode, cruise will not engage. That sucks!
Clarification - Sugar was sweet on his findings.
I played around this afternoon on a trip in our ‘26 Tundra. Then jumped in the LC for a few minutes to compare. You are correct Tundra logic appears different than the LC.
TUNDRA
- Moving the selector to manual mode the Tundra labels on the IP to S-(#) & displays S & the gear the transmission is in (Sport transmission mode)
- Tundra 10-speed shifts 2 gears down when switching to Manual Mode, Example @ 60 mph moving shifter to Manual Mode will display S-8.
- Tundra 10-speed will actually downshift on its own, even in Manual, if vehicle senses load it doesn’t actually hold the gear & lug engine, just goes ahead & downshifts. Same when pulling away from stop, it shifts like normal AT until it reaches displayed manual gear selected & holds.
- Tundra when using Cruise Control stays in Cruise. Selecting any different mode (Sport, Normal, Eco), or even in switching to Manual Mode, & it will stay in Cruise even when manually downshifting gears.
LAND CRUISER
- On the LC switch to Manual Mode goes to M-(#) display reflecting Manual mode & speed. Example @ 60 mph moving shifter to Manual goes to M-7.
- LC 8-speed only shifts 1 gear down when switching to Manual Mode regardless of speed that I checked.
- Big difference is LC will actually hold the gear in Manual to a certain speed slowing down. Highway speeds I can select Manual, dropping it into M-7, shift up to M-8 to cruise, then slow down & begin gentle acceleration & it remain in M-8 & will lug the engine. Didn’t experiment too much with that, just @ highway speed.
- Sames as Tundra, leaving a stop, say in M-4, it will shift like normal AT until 4th gear, & then hold there.
- interesting, LC in Manual Mode won’t let me manually shift into M8 until over 58 mph.
- I was incorrect - when using LC cruise, then moving shifter to manual, drops cruise & sends message on IP saying cruise not available. Opposite logic from Tundra.
I will call them about that. A 1 gear drop in hilly areas was very useful in preventing transmission hunting.
...so I've been thinking about the standard fuel tank and collecting some data... ready to take a drink from the fire hose?... get a drink and gather yourself, here goes and it's a little thick...
a statement @Bad1975 made on a different thread was the key (hybrid battery starts vs storage battery (OEM lead/acid) starts): a storage battery start could be forced by opening the gas flap). It got me wondering about what else might be triggered by opening the flap. I had 150+ mile trip to make the next day, so probable fuel consumption for the trip using a destination of a nearby gas station was calculated- the intent was to arrive to purchase fuel with 0 DTE, presumably zero on the gauge, and only the "unregistered reserve" in the tank, the tank volume below gauge.
Based on that calculation and the DTE displayed, ~3 gallons of fuel was purchased (odometer = 20209 in the data below) and the test was run. Fuel consumption during the test didn't quite match leaving me at zero DTE seven miles short of the target gas station but no problem.
Odometer = 20393 shows the fuel up- note that total was nearly 18 gallons- the tank was topped off 'by ear' (listening to the sound of the vent) not to the point of seeing fuel in the filler neck but had to be close. (Way too full for many)
Odometer = 20393 thru 20476: the tank was over full, fuel level above gauge. (This area indicates to be larger than anticipated, perhaps 3.5 gallons +/-) The procedure that evolved was to start the vehicle, photograph the instrument cluster, drive the next leg, photograph the instrument cluster, shut down and then open/close the fuel filler door. Repeating on each subsequent leg, each picture taken becomes a line of data in the table, tank flap was opened and closed as noted. When the vehicle was restarted following flap cycling, DTE would initially be the same reduced DTE as when shut down before but update to the original higher value after moving a few feet... while fuel level is still above gauge- this is our signal light.
For my rig, 322/323 is the maximum DTE currently (driven by internal moving window average MPG [closely mimicking Total MPG], gauge percent full and a hard coded tank capacity?) and it generally returns to 322 miles (one exception of 323) while above gauge even though the fuel level was lower with each repetition.
Between filling the tank and the gage beginning to show movement, 83 miles were covered +/-. I believe the MPGs for that distance to be 22-23 MPG and will use 22.5 MPG as a basis to say there is about 3.5 gallons of volume above gauge full that you can shove gas into!!! Of course there are all the inherent risks....
Tomorrow or the next day the tank will again return to the 0 DTE, 0 gauge, only "unregistered reserve" in the tank condition. Next step is to add measured amounts back into the tank from below gauge. The process will be to photograph the cluster, add a gallon (don't think I have patience enough for smaller but smaller is better here so maybe a half gallon?), start the vehicle, pull forward three feet, back up three feet, photograph the cluster. Repeating until I see DTE move showing the lower gauge boundary has been crossed and then make note of the amount of gas getting on-gauge took. Then refill the remaining tank volume up to and including the fill tube, matching the technique used in line 10 (any utility in stepping up to upper boundary/extreme fill limit?). This should allow estimating the volume below gauge and generating a complete model of all three zones (above-gauge, in-gauge, below-gauge), the tank volume and gauge relationships to use, refine, or refute.
a statement @Bad1975 made on a different thread was the key (hybrid battery starts vs storage battery (OEM lead/acid) starts): a storage battery start could be forced by opening the gas flap). It got me wondering about what else might be triggered by opening the flap. I had 150+ mile trip to make the next day, so probable fuel consumption for the trip using a destination of a nearby gas station was calculated- the intent was to arrive to purchase fuel with 0 DTE, presumably zero on the gauge, and only the "unregistered reserve" in the tank, the tank volume below gauge.
Based on that calculation and the DTE displayed, ~3 gallons of fuel was purchased (odometer = 20209 in the data below) and the test was run. Fuel consumption during the test didn't quite match leaving me at zero DTE seven miles short of the target gas station but no problem.
Odometer = 20393 shows the fuel up- note that total was nearly 18 gallons- the tank was topped off 'by ear' (listening to the sound of the vent) not to the point of seeing fuel in the filler neck but had to be close. (Way too full for many)
Odometer = 20393 thru 20476: the tank was over full, fuel level above gauge. (This area indicates to be larger than anticipated, perhaps 3.5 gallons +/-) The procedure that evolved was to start the vehicle, photograph the instrument cluster, drive the next leg, photograph the instrument cluster, shut down and then open/close the fuel filler door. Repeating on each subsequent leg, each picture taken becomes a line of data in the table, tank flap was opened and closed as noted. When the vehicle was restarted following flap cycling, DTE would initially be the same reduced DTE as when shut down before but update to the original higher value after moving a few feet... while fuel level is still above gauge- this is our signal light.
For my rig, 322/323 is the maximum DTE currently (driven by internal moving window average MPG [closely mimicking Total MPG], gauge percent full and a hard coded tank capacity?) and it generally returns to 322 miles (one exception of 323) while above gauge even though the fuel level was lower with each repetition.
Between filling the tank and the gage beginning to show movement, 83 miles were covered +/-. I believe the MPGs for that distance to be 22-23 MPG and will use 22.5 MPG as a basis to say there is about 3.5 gallons of volume above gauge full that you can shove gas into!!! Of course there are all the inherent risks....
| Odometer | TripA | DTE | Date & Time | Location | Note |
| 20203 | 22 | 137 | 9/13/2026 9:13 PM | Home | |
| 20203 | 0 | 137 | 9/13/2026 9:13 PM | Home | Reset TripA |
| 20209 | 6.5 | 129 | 9/13/2026 8:54 PM | P66 | |
| 20209 | 6.5 | 129 | 9/13/2026 8:54 PM | P66 | 3.004 gallons add, at pump |
| 20209 | 6.5 | 194 | 9/13/2026 8:54 PM | P66 | 3.004 gallons add, slight move from pump |
| 20216 | 13 | 189 | 9/13/2026 9:09 PM | Home | Same info next morning 9/14 @ 9:10 AM |
| 20302 | 99.2 | 90 | 9/14/2026 10:37 AM | Vet School | |
| 20387 | 183.9 | Refuel | 9/14/2026 1:50 PM | near Home | Rollover from DTE=1 |
| 20387 | 184.3 | Refuel | 9/14/2026 1:52 PM | Home | |
| 20393 | 190.8 | Refuel | 9/14/2026 8:42 PM | P66 | at pump, 1 clik = 15.555g, 2 clik = 17.408g, then top off to ~17.9 |
| 20393 | 190.8 | 322 | 9/14/2026 8:58 PM | P66 | just away from pump |
| 20400 | 197.3 | 315 | 9/14/2026 9:12 PM | Home | arrive |
| 20400 | 197.3 | 322 | 9/14/2026 9:12 PM | Home | Open/Shut Gas Flap |
| EST | 207.3 | 312 | 9/15/2026 12:12 PM | Walmart | arrive |
| EST | 207.3 | 322 | 9/15/2026 12:12 PM | Walmart | Open/Shut Gas Flap |
| EST | 217.3 | 312 | Home | arrive | |
| EST | 217.3 | 322 | Home | Open/Shut Gas Flap | |
| EST | 226.3 | Vet | |||
| EST | 235.3 | 322 | Home | Open/Shut Gas Flap | |
| EST | 245.3 | 322 | Store | Open/Shut Gas Flap | |
| 20466 | 259.3 | 323 | 9/15/26 6:31 PM | Home | Open/Shut Gas Flap |
| 20466 | 259.3 | 323 | 9/16/26 2:07 PM | Home | |
| 20469 | 265.8 | 317 | 9/16/26 2:17 PM | P66 | arrive |
| 20469 | 265.8 | 322 | 9/16/26 2:17 PM | P66 | Open/Shut Gas Flap |
| 20476 | 272.8 | 316 | 9/16/26 2:32 PM | N P66 | arrive |
| 20476 | 272.8 | 316 | 9/16/26 2:37 PM | N P66 | Open/Shut Gas Flap *** NO CHANGE IN DTE AFTER RESET |
| 20557 | 354.1 | 232 | 9/16/26 4:14 PM | AArc | |
| 20557 | 354.1 | 232 | 9/16/26 6:07 PM | AArc | |
| 20652 | 449.7 | 147 | 9/16/26 8:12 PM | Home | |
| 20691 | 488.7 | 103 | 9/18/26 3:43 PM | HD | |
| 20731 | 527.0 | 66 | 9/18/26 4:39 PM | Home |
Tomorrow or the next day the tank will again return to the 0 DTE, 0 gauge, only "unregistered reserve" in the tank condition. Next step is to add measured amounts back into the tank from below gauge. The process will be to photograph the cluster, add a gallon (don't think I have patience enough for smaller but smaller is better here so maybe a half gallon?), start the vehicle, pull forward three feet, back up three feet, photograph the cluster. Repeating until I see DTE move showing the lower gauge boundary has been crossed and then make note of the amount of gas getting on-gauge took. Then refill the remaining tank volume up to and including the fill tube, matching the technique used in line 10 (any utility in stepping up to upper boundary/extreme fill limit?). This should allow estimating the volume below gauge and generating a complete model of all three zones (above-gauge, in-gauge, below-gauge), the tank volume and gauge relationships to use, refine, or refute.
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Can zoom in on the setup you have to get trax boards above the rotopax please. It's a great idea.
A follow up question: do you think it is possible to mount the rotopax on the 45 degree side part of the oem roof rack (where you have the handle in your picture). This way one could have them near veritcle?
Looks like there is truly 18 gallons usable with buffers on top and below that......Both of us suspect 20gallons or more when truly filled to base of neck which is not overfilled nor has it ever been.
Reason I easily have driven just under 400 miles and only needed if I remember. 16.9 gallons. 23.4mpg. That seems to be my broken in trip average now. And yes there were several miles still left to 0 DTE. think it was 6. So that extra gallon would give mean ~420 mile range..........Mopper is taking it beyond my thoughts but there is OBVIOUSLY a LOT more room in that tank capacity. The first click folks are driving around at 7/8ths basically and off the top losing 36-46 miles of range which is significant at 18-23 mpg.
We still need someone that dropped a stock tank on a LC250 to install a larger one to step up and find TRUE capacity. Consider it a public service that becomes a sticky at top of forum!!! My bet is 20+ gallons.
The irony here is my gauge confidence has only been enhanced by EV ownership. 2% with a quick mental calculation is easy. 0% of most EVs is pretty much a dead HV battery and you will tap out the LV battery pretty quick! Done it on trips to and from Maine twice now and it let me minimize to negate any speed reduction. My only concession has been staying a few mph below my typical 80 in 70mph zones..... cuse aside but it relates.
Gas gauges SHOULD be more precise than they are. ....just like specs on different fuels.......last line was just some good ole fashioned sarcasm.
Reason I easily have driven just under 400 miles and only needed if I remember. 16.9 gallons. 23.4mpg. That seems to be my broken in trip average now. And yes there were several miles still left to 0 DTE. think it was 6. So that extra gallon would give mean ~420 mile range..........Mopper is taking it beyond my thoughts but there is OBVIOUSLY a LOT more room in that tank capacity. The first click folks are driving around at 7/8ths basically and off the top losing 36-46 miles of range which is significant at 18-23 mpg.
We still need someone that dropped a stock tank on a LC250 to install a larger one to step up and find TRUE capacity. Consider it a public service that becomes a sticky at top of forum!!! My bet is 20+ gallons.
The irony here is my gauge confidence has only been enhanced by EV ownership. 2% with a quick mental calculation is easy. 0% of most EVs is pretty much a dead HV battery and you will tap out the LV battery pretty quick! Done it on trips to and from Maine twice now and it let me minimize to negate any speed reduction. My only concession has been staying a few mph below my typical 80 in 70mph zones..... cuse aside but it relates.
Gas gauges SHOULD be more precise than they are. ....just like specs on different fuels.......last line was just some good ole fashioned sarcasm.
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As I've said before, Nissan had to recall vehicles due to having a precise fuel gauge; people were running out of gas. Plus the cooling needs of the fuel pump and potential angles of the vehicle on hills etc. will always have manufactures showing empty when you still have a gallon or two left. Even the electric cars do this to protect the battery.
Dawned on me that our LC perspective on mpg isn’t purely reflective of just the amount of gallons of gas used, as we have another power source. In the DTE our traction motor & battery also come into play.
Example. Plug-in Hybrid Vehicle (PHEV) if driven in the EV mode let’s say goes 30 miles slinking around slow on just the battery around your neighborhood & town - & the internal combustion engine (ICE) might never start on that trip. Then 2nd trip we drive highway miles until we empty the gas tank, so now we need to refuel and overall we went 300 miles in the 2 trips. Look at the miles driven & divide by gallons refueled we get a MPG - right? Let’s say it napkin calculates (miles/gallons) = 40 mpg which is combined between the 2 trips. That is an OVERALL mpg combining EV & ICE. Just using the 270 ICE miles versus the ICE/EV 300 miles the MPG would fall for what the ICE used. In theory guess that means I’m getting even worse ICE MPG than what I’m seeing! Yes, I realize the LC isn’t a PHEV, just using it as an example. Think they feds are calling the combined ‘MPGe’ on the hybrid plug-in’s.
Our 288v NiMH battery @ 1.87 kWh LC battery is actually super small in size. But the torque & HP it brings could provide an increase in range, ever so small, to the DTE calculation. It’s also not one & done - like a gallon of gas. It’s constantly being recharged by the traction motor, decel & regenerative braking. So in some small way it can be adding range to the LC. It appears to be primarily designed to provide supplemental HP & torque, but that could offset some of the ICE power requirements letting the vehicle go further depending on a zillion variables.
Just a crazy observation, & makes the DTE conversation even more challenging. Toyota had their hands full creating the LC DTE logarithm.
Example. Plug-in Hybrid Vehicle (PHEV) if driven in the EV mode let’s say goes 30 miles slinking around slow on just the battery around your neighborhood & town - & the internal combustion engine (ICE) might never start on that trip. Then 2nd trip we drive highway miles until we empty the gas tank, so now we need to refuel and overall we went 300 miles in the 2 trips. Look at the miles driven & divide by gallons refueled we get a MPG - right? Let’s say it napkin calculates (miles/gallons) = 40 mpg which is combined between the 2 trips. That is an OVERALL mpg combining EV & ICE. Just using the 270 ICE miles versus the ICE/EV 300 miles the MPG would fall for what the ICE used. In theory guess that means I’m getting even worse ICE MPG than what I’m seeing! Yes, I realize the LC isn’t a PHEV, just using it as an example. Think they feds are calling the combined ‘MPGe’ on the hybrid plug-in’s.
Our 288v NiMH battery @ 1.87 kWh LC battery is actually super small in size. But the torque & HP it brings could provide an increase in range, ever so small, to the DTE calculation. It’s also not one & done - like a gallon of gas. It’s constantly being recharged by the traction motor, decel & regenerative braking. So in some small way it can be adding range to the LC. It appears to be primarily designed to provide supplemental HP & torque, but that could offset some of the ICE power requirements letting the vehicle go further depending on a zillion variables.
Just a crazy observation, & makes the DTE conversation even more challenging. Toyota had their hands full creating the LC DTE logarithm.
Here's a link to my build with more RotoPax pictures- Build Thread. I will grab the measurements for the traction board mounts and a pic or two to add. There may be a molle panel out there now that is compatible with the OEM roof rack but I couldn't locate one. If there is, it'd be a snap to hang the RotoPax
Still not low enough on fuel to run the study!!!!
Got a trip Monday and will post Tuesday latest
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Interesting observation, but to be honest, I wouldn't carry the calculations that far. In an odd way it would also be like enhanced aero by removing racks etc. Remove the crossbars and its a modifed setup .....but loo back to what a prior generation of a box like the Land Cruiser got. It is a remarkable technological achievement to take vehicles of this type that were, for decades the worst mileage pigs on the roads short of pick up trucks, and if we take into consideration the increased speeds we all travel at now, they have essentially DOUBLED the mileage they used to get ON THE HIGHWAY. Problem for some folks is offroad, they still get half, but it becomes 12 instead of 6 mpg. To me, and I have been chewed on for this but I stand by it, a proper fill adds a lot of range! Remember the older gas nozzles that just had a bit of a funnel over the tip? They did not seal. BUt, those Costco nozzles designs that force you to hold them in for the spring to release the safety, are the ones that , if you keep clicking away with their high capacity pumps, you can stuff and drive fuel places it doesn't belong.....then just like an EV that doesn't like being parked for long periods at 100%, we go a mile home and park it facing uphill in the driveway........that is where the charcoal canister issues becomes a concern.
If a few more folks would get brave and after the first click from a max fill rate, they continue at a nice slow fill rate by hand, you will be shocked how "NOT FULL" you were. Even the max locked fill rate v the slowest locked fill rate will make a big difference. I bet many of us go to the station with a pretty good idea how much we will need and when we get within a gallon or so, unlock the filler , slow the rate etc.......typically, a 1st click fill is at 90% of capacity according to the EPA testing protocols. They use that number to give us our tank capacity. So that last 10% gives us a ~19.7 gallon fill....not bad for my 20 gallon guessestimate!.....I am 100% comfortable with the fill and go routine, not a fill and drive home to park.....notice I just pointed out a classic American driver routine....gassing up on the way home.....better to stuff it and drive it!!!!!! EVs are changing our mindset here too!!!!! They don't like being charged to 100% and parked...rather, charge to 100% when needed, unplug and rive it so it doesn't stay at 100% longer than necessary.
I avoided cut and paste of the EPA regs via AI so I didn't get ridiculed but there is a difference between the reddit/You tube stuff and the EPA. Peace. Mopper is doing us all a solid here...I am a notorious ballparker, he is proving it!!!
You off road types can use 18 gallons with confidence is the summary......esp if you properly filled up before you left! Need more, time for a bigger tank or extra cans...maybe we should think like Kramer and put the tanks under the hood so they are closer to the engine........like a good Costco shopper...
Did a fill-up experiment last night. Used the gas pump, a Carista Evo OBD interface, Car Scanner app software, and the LC instrumentation to decide the following-
| True Range* | OBD | DTE | Tank Volume | Fuel Gauge | Condition |
| 396.4 | 18.03 | 341 | 18.6 | Full | Fill Tube Top (approximate) |
| 381.5 | 18.03 | 341 | 17.9 | Full | Top of Tank (10% open above fuel at shutoff) |
| 341.0 | 18 | 0 | 16 | % of 16g | Gauge Full/Fuel Full |
| 42.6 | 2 | 1 - REFUEL | 2 | Empty | Gauge Empty |
| 0 | 0 | REFUEL | 0 | Empty | Bottom of Tank |
| Apparent MPG | * at apparent MPG | ||||
| 21.3125 |
