Changing 12v Battery

BTW -- I don't notice any difference in the terminals for the A and B types of the battery -- but looking closely at the battery labels, the indicated Reserve Capacity is different for the two (109 minutes vs. 130 minutes)...
 
I've decided to upgrade my battery once again -- this time to an Odyssey... There seem to be two good fits:

Odyssey Performance series: ODP-AGM 48 H6 L3 -- $317.19 at Napa Auto Parts (20% off sale)
Length/width/height: 10.9/6.9/7.5
760 CCA, 130 minutes reserve capacity

Odyssey Extreme series: ODX-AGM34R -- $372.39 at Napa Auto Parts (20% off sale)
Length/width/height: 10.9/6.8/7.3 (posts are higher at 7.9, but that shouldn't be an issue)
850 CCA, 135 minutes reserve capacity

These match my current Optima closely (10.94/6.89/7.5), so the fit should be good. The posts are slightly higher on the Extreme (7.9), but that shouldn't be any issue WRT the battery hold-down clamp.
 
I've decided to upgrade my battery once again -- this time to an Odyssey... There seem to be two good fits:

Odyssey Performance series: ODP-AGM 48 H6 L3 -- $317.19 at Napa Auto Parts (20% off sale)
Length/width/height: 10.9/6.9/7.5
760 CCA, 130 minutes reserve capacity

Odyssey Extreme series: ODX-AGM34R -- $372.39 at Napa Auto Parts (20% off sale)
Length/width/height: 10.9/6.8/7.3 (posts are higher at 7.9, but that shouldn't be an issue)
850 CCA, 135 minutes reserve capacity

These match my current Optima closely (10.94/6.89/7.5), so the fit should be good. The posts are slightly higher on the Extreme (7.9), but that shouldn't be any issue WRT the battery hold-down clamp.

I may be going the Walmart AGM H6 route soon, depending on country of origin (fine with Germany or Korea), if not I'll be paying for the Odyssey. Anything is better than the OEM Lead Acid. I also have a winch, so, that's another part of my concern. Planning a couple more trips this year, far more remote and wild so - the last thing I want to worry about is my battery.
 
UPDATE (as promised @basicxj)

Battery swap done. When I got to the battery shop, the ODX-AGM27F was definitely the wrong size (way too big). Their book only went up to 2021 Land Cruisers so I’m glad I brought my old one in to compare and not pay a core charge.

I went with the Odyessy ODX-AGM24F which is the same dimensions width and lengthwise, but about an inch taller than the OEM. They did have the exact same size AGM, but I wanted more cold cranking amps..

The battery hold down is too short, so I’ll have to modify it when the weather warms up. In the meantime, I just used some pipe strapping I had to keep it from shifting around.

The swap was very straightforward. I just unhooked the old battery and hooked up the new one (thanks @Mikie for letting me know it was as simple as that) with no codes/CEL. It fired right back up.
How has this battery been working out for you? I'm intending on buying a slightly smaller Odyssey Extreme, so curious to see if you've been happy with your purchase. Thanks!
 
I noticed XS Power D4800 AGM has 836 CCA. It's probably not available at your local auto parts store, but is available online from many sellers. They seem to have a good reputation for car audio and performance builds.
The group 48 lithium batteries deliver over 1000 cranking amps if they don't go below freezing (through internal/external heaters).
FYI, there is an Odyssey Extreme battery (ODX-AGM34R) available that has 850 CCA and 135 Reserve Minutes... L/W/H dimensions are 10.90/6.80/7.3, which should make it a perfect fit (my current battery is 10.94/6.89/7.5). Note that the posts on the Odyssey are slightly taller (7.9), but that shouldn't be an issue WRT the battery hold-down clamp.

That's what I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on (currently on sale 20% off at Napa, $372)
 
An update re the Odyssey battery options...

I elected to go with the Odyssey Extreme model (ODX-AGM34R), and it turns out that in spite of the outer dimensions being perfect, the lip on the front is a tad too high for the clamp -- so consequently you cannot screw down the front clamp bolt. The two side bolts screw down fine, and as best I can tell, the battery is fully secured with them (in spite of the fact that the front bolt isn't being used).

If you want to avoid this problem, and you want to use an Odyssey battery -- you probably have to go with the Odyssey Performance model (ODP-AGM 48 H6 L3).
 
An update re the Odyssey battery options...

I elected to go with the Odyssey Extreme model (ODX-AGM34R), and it turns out that in spite of the outer dimensions being perfect, the lip on the front is a tad too high for the clamp -- so consequently you cannot screw down the front clamp bolt. The two side bolts screw down fine, and as best I can tell, the battery is fully secured with them (in spite of the fact that the front bolt isn't being used).

If you want to avoid this problem, and you want to use an Odyssey battery -- you probably have to go with the Odyssey Performance model (ODP-AGM 48 H6 L3).
Longer bolt? maybe obtaining a too long bolt and cutting it to the correct length.
 
Longer bolt? maybe obtaining a too long bolt and cutting it to the correct length.
I agree completely, this isn't a show-stopper problem. If the new battery resolves my power issues, then I'll take the old bolt down to the hardware store and try to find a longer match. I could even just use a heavy duty zip tie, but I'd rather go with the bolt. I wanted to post an update here re the fit problem just in case anyone else is thinking about an Odyssey (and I think that some people are).

I'm very interested to see what happens with the new battery. This is probably my final effort to try to deal with the LC power problem -- this is my second battery upgrade, and I've done a TON of things to try to mitigate the "overhead" load in the car (mostly config options, but also physical changes like installing a switch for the liftgate lights, switching off the entry lights button, etc.) I also tried disconnecting the battery sensor for 10 days, but that did not seem to help.

In spite of everything, even tho I drive almost every day (albeit usually short distances, maybe 15-20 min total), my battery will go from a full charge (using wall charger) to below 12.4V (which the battery manufacturer says I should stay above to avoid sulfation) in abut 5-6 days or so.

As a comparison, my 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk (which also had lots of electronics) could go for almost 2 months without running, and still would have no problems with a start (I know this because I would leave the car sitting, without a battery maintainer, for 6-8 week long trips to Nepal, and it always started right up when I returned). I'm pretty sure that the reason the battery performed so well was that it was a special extra large AGM battery, specific to the Trailhawk model.

I hate to say it -- but for my use case (LOTS of remote back-country use), the small battery issue is a big concern, and it could force me to trade the LC in on something else. (Not that there are any super great options, but at this point, I'd lean towards a Subaru Outback Wilderness. Definitely not apples-to-apples, but it offers some advantages important to me -- not least of which, the Wilderness model has a huge AGM battery, similar to my Trailhawk, specifically to support overlanding.)
 
I agree completely, this isn't a show-stopper problem. If the new battery resolves my power issues, then I'll take the old bolt down to the hardware store and try to find a longer match. I could even just use a heavy duty zip tie, but I'd rather go with the bolt. I wanted to post an update here re the fit problem just in case anyone else is thinking about an Odyssey (and I think that some people are).

I'm very interested to see what happens with the new battery. This is probably my final effort to try to deal with the LC power problem -- this is my second battery upgrade, and I've done a TON of things to try to mitigate the "overhead" load in the car (mostly config options, but also physical changes like installing a switch for the liftgate lights, switching off the entry lights button, etc.) I also tried disconnecting the battery sensor for 10 days, but that did not seem to help.

In spite of everything, even tho I drive almost every day (albeit usually short distances, maybe 15-20 min total), my battery will go from a full charge (using wall charger) to below 12.4V (which the battery manufacturer says I should stay above to avoid sulfation) in abut 5-6 days or so.

As a comparison, my 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk (which also had lots of electronics) could go for almost 2 months without running, and still would have no problems with a start (I know this because I would leave the car sitting, without a battery maintainer, for 6-8 week long trips to Nepal, and it always started right up when I returned). I'm pretty sure that the reason the battery performed so well was that it was a special extra large AGM battery, specific to the Trailhawk model.

I hate to say it -- but for my use case (LOTS of remote back-country use), the small battery issue is a big concern, and it could force me to trade the LC in on something else. (Not that there are any super great options, but at this point, I'd lean towards a Subaru Outback Wilderness. Definitely not apples-to-apples, but it offers some advantages important to me -- not least of which, the Wilderness model has a huge AGM battery, similar to my Trailhawk, specifically to support overlanding.)
I can't disagree with your logic, but a power bank would be much cheaper......LOL. I have an EcoFlow that I built a platform for that secures to the flipped up dvr side rear seat. Works well for my excursions.
 
With so many choosing to replace their OEM batteries with AGMs, I am wondering why there isn’t any discussion of warranties. Both Optima and Odyssey have 3 year warranties, while the Walmart Everstart is 4 years. And I believe the Toyota True Start is 84 months (probably pro-rated).

I know the non-Os are flooded lead-acid, but aren’t the longer warranties indicating quality and longer expected service life?
 
I wouldn't say the Walmart battery (regardless of who made it) is going to be better than the Odyssey. Every battery on the market has a service life, and you can research which ones seem to hold up the longest (and what kind of care it takes to get that extra life).

I have owned many batteries in my time, including Walmart's finest, Delco, Canadian Tire, Die Hard, Optima, Northstar, Odyssey. The last three are in a different league, though it seems Northstar no longer does retail under their own name. There are only a few manufacturers left and they do the majority of the re-labels sold by chains and big box stores. Optima is still independent (though the parent company also does re-labels you'll find as store brands) as is Odyssey. The rest are going to be from the same couple of manufacturers.

There are two main schools of thought- choose the battery that fits with the best warranty and highest capacity for the best price and use that warranty when the battery starts to fail, or choose a really good battery that is known to outlast the warranty by a large margin and coax the most years out of it by topping it off regularly rather than running it in partial state of charge. Not everyone sees value in paying $300-$400 for a battery no matter how good it might be. If you are comparing AGM deep cycles to AGM deep cycles, maintaining it with an AGM compatible charger is probably good advice regardless of who made it or how much it cost you.
 
So, have we decided that a AGM is okay, even with the less than ideal charging specs of the LC?

I have an Odyssey in my p/u, good battery, went up a size since I have the space. Pretty sure the WM Everstart is made in the same place as Motorcraft and the DieHard of new, also whatever else they sell at AZ or AAP, same body at least, it is a solid battery and cheaper than AZ/AAP, even the spec's matched.
 
So, have we decided that a AGM is okay, even with the less than ideal charging specs of the LC?

I have an Odyssey in my p/u, good battery, went up a size since I have the space. Pretty sure the WM Everstart is made in the same place as Motorcraft and the DieHard of new, also whatever else they sell at AZ or AAP, same body at least, it is a solid battery and cheaper than AZ/AAP, even the spec's matched.
The land cruiser does not have a charging profile to support a deep cycle agm. Many people are using them anyways or using supplemental charging to keep them topped off. If that's worth it to you or want to take on the downsides of not fully charging a deep cycle agm that's a personal decision.

Standard replacement non-deep cycle agm batteries that don't require higher float charging should be fine. You need to look at the specs of the battery.
 
I can't disagree with your logic, but a power bank would be much cheaper......LOL. I have an EcoFlow that I built a platform for that secures to the flipped up dvr side rear seat. Works well for my excursions.
I've been running a Jackery 1000 V2 with an ICECO fridge and Starlink Mini since the week I purchased the LC.

The Jackery charges at 1.4kW (3-7 days of usage depending on if it's summer or winter after charging for one-hour) using the 2.4kW inverter. You could also attach a battery trickle charger to this as well while off-grid for the 12V starter battery.

There may be some confusion here. Glance at the battery, the physical appearance. There are basically two manufactures that produce 12V batteries (outside of Optima, North Star, and Odyssey) for everyone: East Penn and Clarios. Doesn't matter if it's a Walmart Platinum or Diehard Platinum, just glance at the battery, you'll see a pattern with just a label change. The Walmart Platinums in my area is identical to every normal retailers premium AGM battery line (O'Reilly's, Advance, Napa, etc.), just around $75 less expensive.
 
Standard replacement non-deep cycle agm batteries that don't require higher float charging should be fine. You need to look at the specs of the battery.
Is the Walmart Everstart Platinum a deep cycle or non-deep cycle?
 
An update re the Odyssey battery options...

I elected to go with the Odyssey Extreme model (ODX-AGM34R), and it turns out that in spite of the outer dimensions being perfect, the lip on the front is a tad too high for the clamp -- so consequently you cannot screw down the front clamp bolt. The two side bolts screw down fine, and as best I can tell, the battery is fully secured with them (in spite of the fact that the front bolt isn't being used).
Do you think a spendy solution like a Group 34/78 battery hold down kit would work?
 
Do you think a spendy solution like a Group 34/78 battery hold down kit would work?
Each one of those seems to have a different way of attaching to the vehicle. Not sure which lines up with the LC's setup.

Unless the tray/box is attached to the vehicle, it seems there wouldn't be any added stability for the battery.
 
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