Changing 12v Battery

[bluescruiser]

I just checked -- and my Privacy Lock is OFF... (I've never set it one way or the other -- so I'm pretty sure that the car was delivered to me with it off)

I've probably disconnected my battery close to a dozen times for various reasons (replacing battery, installing liftgate light switch, installing battery jumpers, testing battery health, etc.) -- and I've never been asked to enter a code.

@Mikie so when you hooked up the battery again, it didn’t throw a code/CEL light or anything like that?

I was planning on keeping 12v power to the vehicle by hooking up my booster/jump pack to the connection points under the hood while changed the 12v battery in the back. If I don’t have to do that, that would be awesome!

 

[Mikie]

@Mikie so when you hooked up the battery again, it didn’t throw a code/CEL light or anything like that?

I was planning on keeping 12v power to the vehicle by hooking up my booster/jump pack to the connection points under the hood while changed the 12v battery in the back. If I don’t have to do that, that would be awesome!

Nope, absolutely no codes or error messages of any kind. And all aspects of the info/nav system work fine.

I do think that EOD_guy is right, I don't remember for sure, but you probably do need to manually close (reset) the rear liftgate after changing or disconnecting the battery, but that's no big deal.

Parenthetically, there are a number of situations that will cause you to have to close/reset the liftgate, this is just one of them (another one I run into from time to time is if I do the "carabiner trick" and leave the carabiner in for more than a few hours, the liftgate dies and needs to be closed/reset.)

Incidentally, not saying that you were going to do this, but the owners manual states that you should never charge the battery while the hybrid system is on.

 

[bluescruiser]

you should never charge the battery while the hybrid system is on.

Like with a trickle charger or with the booster pack as I was planning to do? I’m not really following

Thanks for that information though, good to know!

 

[Mikie]

Like with a trickle charger or with the booster pack as I was planning to do? I’m not really following

Thanks for that information though, good to know!

Not sure exactly what you were planning to do -- but just be sure not to turn on the hybrid system (starter button) while you've got the trickle charger hooked up. If that was not your intent, sorry to confuse things!

I believe that the problem would be that while you're charging the battery with the trickle charger, if the hybrid system is turned on it will automatically also try to charge the 12V battery from the large traction battery (via the DC-DC converter), and these two together may push too much current thru the battery. (On a related note, there is also a warning in the owner's manual about not using a charger that puts out more than 5A, as that may cause the battery to explode, which most people consider to be a bad thing.)

 

[bluescruiser]

Not sure exactly what you were planning to do -- but just be sure not to turn on the hybrid system (starter button) while you've got the trickle charger hooked up. If that was not your intent, sorry to confuse things!

I believe that the problem would be that while you're charging the battery with the trickle charger, if the hybrid system is turned on it will automatically also try to charge the 12V battery from the large traction battery (via the DC-DC converter), and these two together may push too much current thru the battery. (On a related note, there is also a warning in the owner's manual about not using a charger that puts out more than 5A, as that may cause the battery to explode, which most people consider to be a bad thing.)


View attachment 55968

I’m definitely not turning it on, I had seen a few videos where people kept power to the 12v system in order not to lose radio/seat settings. I’m hoping that works!

 

[EOD Guy]

Learn something new every day......LOL Going to disable that rascal ASAP!

 

[basicxj]

I’ll make sure to post an update in this thread

Edit: are you looking at the Odyessy ODX-AGM27F? That’s what the battery shop recommended

I believe I was comparing dimensions of Odyssey's Group 48 against the Optima DH6 that EOD Guy says is a known good fit.

ODP-AGM48 H6 L3

Looking for an ODP-AGM48 H6 L3 (48-720) ODYSSEY Performance Series battery? Buy it online at OdysseyBattery.com - the official manfacturer's website. Whether it's a battery for your car, boat, RV, a powersports battery or a heavy duty / commercial application battery - powerful performance...

www.odysseybattery.com

Optima Yellowtop DH6

The OPTIMA YELLOWTOP® high-performance Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery is the one to choose for both your starting and deep-cycle needs. With premium cranking power and impressive cycling capability, the YELLOWTOP® dual purpose battery is ideal for modern accessory-loaded vehicles. The...

batteryguys.com

Width/length/height of the group 48 choices seem to be within a mm or two. The ODX-AGM27F has stronger specs but seems larger.

 

[Mikie]

Learn something new every day......LOL Going to disable that rascal ASAP!

Please let us know the results from disconnecting the sensor...

 

[Mikie]

What I don't understand about all of this is -- why doesn't Toyota fix the problem? This is not a new issue, they've even had lawsuits in the past about quickly discharging 12V battery problems...

The use of appropriate charging profiles for various battery types is well understood, and these profiles are even built in to cheap wall-power battery chargers (such as my Noco) that offer specific charging selections for each battery type. Ideally, Toyota would have given us the option to configure what type of battery we have -- and then the BMS would use the appropriate charging profile for that battery type. Some other manufacturers provide this capability, but not Toyota (unfortunately).

OK, so then Toyota should have provided a charging profile that's optimal for the battery provided with the vehicle. But they did not. Hence the problems that so many of us experience.

My question is WHY did they not do this? It's simply a matter of the appropriate software algorithm being implemented. They know the headaches that this problem causes for customers -- so why subject us to this??

 

[bluescruiser]

UPDATE (as promised @basicxj)

Battery swap done. When I got to the battery shop, the ODX-AGM27F was definitely the wrong size (way too big). Their book only went up to 2021 Land Cruisers so I’m glad I brought my old one in to compare and not pay a core charge.

I went with the Odyessy ODX-AGM24F which is the same dimensions width and lengthwise, but about an inch taller than the OEM. They did have the exact same size AGM, but I wanted more cold cranking amps..

The battery hold down is too short, so I’ll have to modify it when the weather warms up. In the meantime, I just used some pipe strapping I had to keep it from shifting around.

The swap was very straightforward. I just unhooked the old battery and hooked up the new one (thanks @Mikie for letting me know it was as simple as that) with no codes/CEL. It fired right back up.

 

[Vermont]

The Odyssey ODP-AGM48 H6 L3 (Model 48-720) is a 100% direct drop-in fit.

ODP-AGM48 H6 L3

Looking for an ODP-AGM48 H6 L3 (48-720) ODYSSEY Performance Series battery? Buy it online at OdysseyBattery.com - the official manfacturer's website. Whether it's a battery for your car, boat, RV, a powersports battery or a heavy duty / commercial application battery - powerful performance...

www.odysseybattery.com

 

[bluescruiser]

Yep, thats the one I looked at as well. I just wanted a few more CCA for the temperature extremes we experience

 

[t3lcfe]

I just checked -- and my Privacy Lock is OFF... (I've never set it one way or the other -- so I'm pretty sure that the car was delivered to me with it off)

I've probably disconnected my battery close to a dozen times for various reasons (replacing battery, installing liftgate light switch, installing battery jumpers, testing battery health, etc.) -- and I've never been asked to enter a code

Same here. Never asked for pin/code. I just checked and the “privacy” set OFF
Before I always though LC has similar battery system as my Gwagon. In my Gwagon, it has 2 batteries: Big/main one for starting the engine… and small one for all ACC setups maintain while big/main battery replacement

 

[t3lcfe]

Yep, thats the one I looked at as well. I just wanted a few more CCA for the temperature extremes we experience

Looks good.
OEM battery CCA 600A vs. CCA 760A Odyssey battery (ODP-AGM48 H6 L3)

 

[Vermont]

Looks good.
OEM battery CCA 600A vs. CCA 760A Odyssey battery (ODP-AGM48 H6 L3)

Yes, a bit more power. This was my OEM battery --> 380LN3-MF

 

[t3lcfe]

Yes, a bit more power. This was my OEM battery --> 380LN3-MFView attachment 56244

Helpful !

 

[basicxj]

UPDATE (as promised @basicxj)

Battery swap done. When I got to the battery shop, the ODX-AGM27F was definitely the wrong size (way too big). Their book only went up to 2021 Land Cruisers so I’m glad I brought my old one in to compare and not pay a core charge.

I went with the Odyessy ODX-AGM24F which is the same dimensions width and lengthwise, but about an inch taller than the OEM. They did have the exact same size AGM, but I wanted more cold cranking amps..

The battery hold down is too short, so I’ll have to modify it when the weather warms up. In the meantime, I just used some pipe strapping I had to keep it from shifting around.

The swap was very straightforward. I just unhooked the old battery and hooked up the new one (thanks @Mikie for letting me know it was as simple as that) with no codes/CEL. It fired right back up.

Much appreciated- with photos too!

When you tackle a more permanent fix to the hold down situation, please share.

I see you went with the Extreme. I ran the Performance series in my last vehicle and it replaced a Northstar. That should prove to be an excellent battery

 

[bluescruiser]

Much appreciated- with photos too!

When you tackle a more permanent fix to the hold down situation, please share.

I see you went with the Extreme. I ran the Performance series in my last vehicle and it replaced a Northstar. That should prove to be an excellent battery

This forum has been very beneficial for me so I try to give back as much as I can in hopes it will help another member. I will for sure follow up when I come up with a more permanent solution for the tie down.

My last vehicle had a NorthStar and it was rock solid. Odyssey bought NorthStar so I’m hoping my experience will be similar!

 

[t3lcfe]

I'll be replacing my OEM 12v battery with an Odyssey AGM shortly and was wondering has anyone here done that yet? I've seen videos where people keep 12v power using a booster pack or even a 9v battery during the swap to retain memory settings.

I'm not really worried about losing radio station settings/clock settings etc; I'm just concerned that if I do a battery swap as I've normally done (disconnect old battery and install new battery) It'll throw a code and I'll have to bring back to the dealer to get the codes cleared.

If anyone can chime in with some advice that would be awesome!

What are the reasons that you decided to replace your oem battery ? Thanks

 

[bluescruiser]

What are the reasons that you decided to replace your oem battery ? Thanks

Had it replaced less than a year ago due to a “bad cell” and a couple weeks ago battery voltage dropped in the replacement battery, which threw codes and would not start without a jump.

I had never experienced these issues with my previous vehicle (with an AGM battery) so I decided to cut my losses and hopefully avoid such problems in the future