Interested to see how far off the gauge is. Not as concerned with miles to empty personally because I try to always tank up around a 1/4 of a tank left. So if that gauge accuarately reports that it has 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 etc whatever and that’s accurate then this will be a no brainer for me
29gal Main Fuel Tank Install
- Thread starter doubleD
- Start date
Gauge accuracy should be unchanged unless the tank is deeper in which case OEM pump sending unit combo wouldn't be long enough and would stop registering a change at some point (needle on E with fuel remaining in tank) and or stop supplying fuel if the filter sock were to be high and dry in that case.
All of which could be addressed via a quality aftermarket Fuel pump sending unit, you can get those in allot of different lengths and even custom lengths to support tank/vehicle requirements just have to determine what kind unit is installed as OEM. A lot of times the pump, filter sock and sending unit can be reused on a new float assembly of proper length. Depending upon float style construction it may also be able to be modified to a longer length.
I don't think the depth of these aftermarket tanks is being changed in any of the three designs between this one discussed here, Long Range America and third one I stumbled upon (Can't seem to find it now) Made in Idaho that will be released early next year, pretty sure this one is going to be a replacement tank and not a spare tire replacement.
All of which could be addressed via a quality aftermarket Fuel pump sending unit, you can get those in allot of different lengths and even custom lengths to support tank/vehicle requirements just have to determine what kind unit is installed as OEM. A lot of times the pump, filter sock and sending unit can be reused on a new float assembly of proper length. Depending upon float style construction it may also be able to be modified to a longer length.
I don't think the depth of these aftermarket tanks is being changed in any of the three designs between this one discussed here, Long Range America and third one I stumbled upon (Can't seem to find it now) Made in Idaho that will be released early next year, pretty sure this one is going to be a replacement tank and not a spare tire replacement.
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My curiosity has been humming after reading this thread- not so much because I plan to mod the fuel tank in our Land Cruiser (I don't), but because there has to be a solution to the fuel gauge issues.
^^ according to a Toyota online parts site, this is the sending unit/float assembly
It wasn't a Toyota, but one of the vehicles I owned where the fuel tank sending unit failed was replaced. The vehicle was obsolete, and the only replacement available was an aftermarket/third party unit. It was a much easier job as it didn't involve dropping the tank- I removed the right rear wheel, removed a connector, walked the retaining ring off and was able to swap the sending unit in about ten minutes.
After I installed the replacement sending unit and filling the tank, its calibration was found to be "off" in that a full tank never actually read full, and would read empty before it actually was. My solution was to remove it again and bend the arm for the float slightly so the float sat higher. End of problem.
With OP's replacement tank, it is hard to say if architecture of the new tank vs OEM and how that sending unit is oriented leads to accurate fuel level in the big scheme of things. Tweaking the float arm wouldn't translate into an accurate count of gallons remaining via the computer, but might be a solution should 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and "E" not be an accurate representation of total capacity remaining.
8332060610 Genuine Toyota GAGE ASSY FUEL 83320-60610 | eBay
Condition:OEM 100% GENUINE NEW PART. East Asia and Middle East -. TRJ150L-GKTEKX GDJ15#,GRJ150,KDJ150,TRJ150 08.2017 -. ATM,MTM: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION; NO. KDJ150R-GKAEYW GDJ15#,GRJ150,KDJ150,TRJ150 08.2017 -. ATM,MTM: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION; NO.
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^^ according to a Toyota online parts site, this is the sending unit/float assembly
It wasn't a Toyota, but one of the vehicles I owned where the fuel tank sending unit failed was replaced. The vehicle was obsolete, and the only replacement available was an aftermarket/third party unit. It was a much easier job as it didn't involve dropping the tank- I removed the right rear wheel, removed a connector, walked the retaining ring off and was able to swap the sending unit in about ten minutes.
After I installed the replacement sending unit and filling the tank, its calibration was found to be "off" in that a full tank never actually read full, and would read empty before it actually was. My solution was to remove it again and bend the arm for the float slightly so the float sat higher. End of problem.
With OP's replacement tank, it is hard to say if architecture of the new tank vs OEM and how that sending unit is oriented leads to accurate fuel level in the big scheme of things. Tweaking the float arm wouldn't translate into an accurate count of gallons remaining via the computer, but might be a solution should 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and "E" not be an accurate representation of total capacity remaining.
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- Thread starter
- #64
Sorry to be unclear. The MTE is always incorrect except at that single point when the fuel light comes on and MTE is zero. At that point you will have four gallons instead of the oem 2, but the fuel line will be the same height and to preserve the pump you should refill it.
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- #65
Your dealer installer should be able to do this in no time. It is essentially exactly the same as swapping a fuel pump. You just put a different tank back up into the car then you took out. Plus maybe 30 minutes for brackets and checking your work.
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- #66
Doesn’t affect tire; ground clearance - it does sit like maybe 1/2” below the frame but the tank isn’t the low point, so…
It comes with a new carbon canister but I believe it has part numbers on it - check w the manufacturer on that one. Everything else is oem.
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- #67
About five; and legit three of it was trying to figure out how to disconnect the plugs lol
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- #68
I can confirm the fuel pump touches the bottom of the tank and I believe there is actually a spring loaded mechanism on the bottom. So the gauge should be similar, although tank shape accounts for some variance. I’ll report back after my first tank. I’m recording data points each trip.
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- #69
Think the shape of the tank may cause some variance. But I’ll keep a log and we can see the data.
@basicxj
When I put fuel injection on my 40 series and replaced the dash (Dakota Digital) I had to calibrate the new fuel gauge to the original floats resistance values at Full, 3/4, 1/2 and Empty. The new dash calculates DTE and fuel economy based upon input tank volume, distance travelled and float resistance, that is why I say all these number will likely eventually even out and likely be quite accurate, my gauge was instantly accurate but the DTE and MPG took a few tanks to be accurate.
Tank volume has changed in this case but I don't think that makes a difference in making the calculations for DTE, MPG may be a different story but that could work as well, although it has less of a chance of being accurate IMO out of the two.
Fuel pump plate showing the float installed, pump and fuel pressure regulator not shown which should be in the bottom housing portion:
Fuel pump only with filter sock:
When I put fuel injection on my 40 series and replaced the dash (Dakota Digital) I had to calibrate the new fuel gauge to the original floats resistance values at Full, 3/4, 1/2 and Empty. The new dash calculates DTE and fuel economy based upon input tank volume, distance travelled and float resistance, that is why I say all these number will likely eventually even out and likely be quite accurate, my gauge was instantly accurate but the DTE and MPG took a few tanks to be accurate.
Tank volume has changed in this case but I don't think that makes a difference in making the calculations for DTE, MPG may be a different story but that could work as well, although it has less of a chance of being accurate IMO out of the two.
Fuel pump plate showing the float installed, pump and fuel pressure regulator not shown which should be in the bottom housing portion:
Fuel pump only with filter sock:
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Whether or not is has proper baffelling would be my only short term concern as if not at offroad angles the pump could run dry and starve the engine. But that could likely be resolved with a custom larger filter sock that goes across the tank vice just below the pump. Not sure what the filter socks are made of but they are much like a sponge and as long a portion of the sock is in fuel it will still pump.
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- #72
See the videos in the original post. They show the baffles being welded in place
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- #73
I’m pretty confident the computer is not set up to figure out system changes that don’t regularly change. It’s too complex and would add zero functionality to the vehicle.
But like I have said before, I’m keeping a log and we will see. But 100% my expectation is that MTE just drops more slowly and probably nonlinearly until it hits 0 with 4 gallons left, and that it will always do that.
Do keep us posted. Always interested in learning.
What a great post, and congratulations on the ~500+ tank it looks amazing. If I didn't buy a warranty on my LC I'd honestly be tempted to do this as it seems pretty straight forward from all the information you provided. I'm curious to see how it continues long term for you and it is honestly something on my long term list I'd be interested in potentially doing.
Out of curiosity reading through your posts you mentioned the tank I think sits maybe 1/2" lower than the original OEM one. Do you know by chance if skit plates/under-body protection is still capable/works with the new gas tank? I personally have the OEM skid plates on my LC and I do some light off-roading with it, it seems like you mentioned the new tank still isn't the lower point of the vehicle so would still be safe to go goof off-roading as long as you aren't targeting spiky rocks or something that would naturally puncture any type of tank.
Out of curiosity reading through your posts you mentioned the tank I think sits maybe 1/2" lower than the original OEM one. Do you know by chance if skit plates/under-body protection is still capable/works with the new gas tank? I personally have the OEM skid plates on my LC and I do some light off-roading with it, it seems like you mentioned the new tank still isn't the lower point of the vehicle so would still be safe to go goof off-roading as long as you aren't targeting spiky rocks or something that would naturally puncture any type of tank.
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- #76
The stock basic skid plate I don’t believe will fit once the new tank is installed. Vent speak to others.
That said the bottom of the tank is 5mm thick; aside from spiky big rocks and sizable hit you should be fine.
If you’re really worried about it, I think it would be a very easy thing to have a fabricator put together for you as you could likely just use the same bolts that the tanks supports & straps use.
That said the bottom of the tank is 5mm thick; aside from spiky big rocks and sizable hit you should be fine.
If you’re really worried about it, I think it would be a very easy thing to have a fabricator put together for you as you could likely just use the same bolts that the tanks supports & straps use.
Awesome thanks for the response and the information! Sounds like it is durable and would be plenty fine with the majority of my light trail and over landing things I would do.
Best mod for people who don't have kids that is.
Any idea if this could void anything that needed to be done under warranty? I towed my trailer 5k al over canada last September and I wished many times for a larger tank. This would be a no brainer if I didn't have 2 years of warranty left.
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- #80
I believe the general rule is that the warranty applies to unmodified parts unless it can be shown that the modified parts caused the issue. So basically you’d just have to ask yourself… what issue could an aftermarket fuel tank like this cause that is remotely likely to happen inside the warranty period AND be expensive enough to make it worth waiting.
Only things that don’t seem like a major stretch would be fuel pump and fuel filter, neither caused by the tank per se but possible that the pump because it gets installed on an aftermarket tank maybe they could deny a claim, and fuel filter if somehow debris got into the tank. The former is pricey the latter not so much.
And my fuel pump on my 02 sequoia lasted 20 Years and 125,000 miles before dying… so unlikely.
