The Unexpected Risk of an Early Break-In Oil Change

[ultane]

I’ve got a new LC 2025 - 1700 miles in a few months. Brakes squeal when I back up and I have an aftermarket skid plate installed ( icon)
My local dealer from whom I purchased the vehicle does not return my calls - to the salesman and to service manager. All that said - I really don’t trust them for the first service or to put my skid plate back on properly - who do you use to service your vehicle ? Japanese specialist or just foreign car service shop

You could always just remove The icon skid plate before you take it in to the shop.

 

[LCMud]

This saga has a happy ending!

I brought the truck in to check the oil, as requested. The drain plug was clean, the oil looked new. They had no issue providing me a sample as requested. They felt it looked good, and offered a credit for future service - but I expressed I still had concerns for longevity. The service manager asked what I felt would solve the issue, and I brought up the idea of trading my truck for another.

The GM was on board, no convincing or arguments needed. They offered the full amount I paid for the old truck without asking, and they were happy to find a truck elsewhere or work with me on the black premium they had on the lot. I wasn't excited about black, but the brown interior won me over. They offered the same amount off on the premium that I got on the 1958 without me even asking, and offered a hugely discounted 10yr/100k extended warranty.

As I specifically told the GM - mistakes happen, but how those mistakes are fixed is what actually shows what an organization is made of. It means a lot more to say the dealership made a mistake and then made things right. I felt these guys were 100% honest the entire time, never any attempt to deny responsibility, and never any pressure for me to just deal with it. It's a smaller-town dealer, and they said specifically they want to be sure customers are happy, tell their friends, and keep coming back. I absolutely believe it - and I will definitely give them another shot whenever I need dealer service. I suspect they have implemented some procedural changes to ensure mistakes like my oil incident don't happen again.

Side note: The 1958 was the cooler of the two, and I will miss it. I loved the round headlights and cloth interior. So cozy and timeless. The LCLC Premium though is a nicer truck, and I'll probably be happier with it in the long run. I love the brown interior, and the stereo sounds excellent by comparison. The camera seems nice too - I was fine without the 360 on the 1958 because of the great visibility, but the backup camera was pretty bad. Unfortunately my new truck does lack the SBD, and it does have 20 inch wheels. I'm not super excited about the wheels, but it does feel like it handles a little sharper. Overall, very happy with the outcome of this entire story.

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What a great dealer! And the black with tan very nice. Congratulations on making out of this mess.

 

[dpcompt]

I've had my 1958 for just over two weeks, and I'm already up to ~1300 miles. Probably my favorite vehicle that I've owned, and one I intend to keep for a long time. This particular car was delivered to me with just 6 miles on it, 2 of which I put on during my initial test drive. I liked that since it meant some yokel didn't flog a fresh engine on a test drive. I've since babied it through the full break-in period as required, and even still been very light on the throttle.

So in the interest of longevity, I scheduled my initial oil change at a local dealer (which I did not buy the car from) today, paying out-of-pocket to keep the included full-service ones for later. When I was ready to leave, it sounded normal at first...then almost like something was rubbing the fan, or some other rotating part. A horrible, diesel-ish mechanical ticking sound that varied with RPM - but it quickly went into hybrid mode, so not long enough to confirm, or see if it fixed itself. I had my suspicions, but all I could do was a short loop in the parking lot to confirm the sound remained - which it did.

Pulled back in, turned truck off, got the service advisor who had me start it up. Sounded okay at initial idle on startup, but the tick was there when the engine revved up at all. Yelled for me to shut it off, pulled the dipstick to confirm it was dry. Checking with the shop, said "the oil pump malfunctioned and dispensed .5 quarts instead of 5.5". Offered that they would do an analysis at the next oil change to check for damage, which I got in writing. Said if that doesn't look good we will "talk to Toyota".

So that's where we are. Truck didn't run much with low oil since it was aggressively going into hybrid mode, probably no more than a minute or two after I got it - who knows how long in the shop. Probably never revved above 2500 rpm or so. Really surprised tech hadn't noticed something was wrong when backing it out of the service bay, but clearly said tech also didn't verify the oil level on the dipstick. I knew enough to know something was wrong, this could have been a major disaster (for them) for so many others, who would have driven until the engine seized. I'm not out for blood or to get something for nothing, but I want to keep this car a long time, and I don't want to worry that dumb mistake (that I paid someone else to make) has doomed the longevity of my engine. My questions:

• How worried should I be about engine damage?
• Am I likely in the clear if the analysis turn out okay?
• Even if the analysis is good at 5000 miles, did this do something that will show at, say, 150,000 miles?
• Should I wait until 10,000 mile for my next oil change to give whatever damage may have occurred the opportunity to show itself?
• Interestingly, no warning lights or notifications. I would have expected something to scream the oil level is low.
• What seems fair and reasonable to ask for here? I love the truck, I want to keep it - but if it does need a new engine, I'm a little uneasy about that level or work required on a truck I just bought. And then I have no truck while the work is being done. But I also don't want to have to worry about it dying early, or I'll end up trading it in way too soon.
• At minimum, regardless of the analysis, would it be fair to ask for a Toyota extended warranty? Ideally the highest mileage they offer, to ensure I'm covered if there are engine issues that come up well down the road?
• Any other advice?

The advisor is going to let the service manager know. I'm hoping someone reaches out tomorrow and makes a reasonable offer to make things right and set me at ease - whatever that is. I'm both hesitant to ever take the car back there since the tech didn't check the dipstick after (is that procedure, or a huge oversight?), but I'm stuck for at least the next oil change.

Thanks!

It’s good that they mentioned the gauge on the pump failed. I would demand a replacement vehicle. The damage is done.

 

[fmPro]

Late to the topic, but a few points.
1. Turbo was likely not spinning, as MrCharlie described his short engine run and drive would NOT have created heat and load bringing turbo into play.
2. every engine starts with no oil pressure and a design feature of all engine/motor lubricants/additives is to 'cling' to engine parts for this reality.
3. Engine noise on first start was likely low/no oil pressure to valve lash adjusters and cam drive chain tensioner. Again, as short run time/low engine load he reported, not much to worry about here. Tech should ALWAYS check the stick!
4. Engine oil analysis and filter inspection is best documentation step.
5. Quality dealer should handle these issues without Toyota Corporate involvement, as happened here. Toyota is not a party to the retail transaction (purchase or customer-paid service), nor dealer workmanship issues... that's what Garage Keepers insurance is for. Toyota CAN be a voice on your behalf for non-responsive dealers that gladly was not a factor here.
6. Engine/hybrid control module likely stored a DTC code (P0524) for engine RPM >500 and no oil pressure. Codes may be stored and visible to Toyota Corporate and if it sets on a date timed with a Toyota dealer oil change, (visible in Toyota National Service History database) would likely be proof to deny engine damage claims and probably make a Toyota Service Contract an invalid option for long-term insurance against unforeseen lubrication-related durability issues.

 

[Wasatch]

I’ve got a new LC 2025 - 1700 miles in a few months. Brakes squeal when I back up and I have an aftermarket skid plate installed ( icon)
My local dealer from whom I purchased the vehicle does not return my calls - to the salesman and to service manager. All that said - I really don’t trust them for the first service or to put my skid plate back on properly - who do you use to service your vehicle ? Japanese specialist or just foreign car service shop

I've had five 4Runner's in which they had the free oil changes. I used two toyota dealers to change the oil. Both did lousy jobs by stripping bolts on my skid plates and leaving a mess in my engine bay and interior. I'm 68 and change my oil myself. I buy toyota filters and walmart 0-20 mobile one. The LC is very easy to change oil and filter. I always know the job is done right because it's my vehicle and I care. But if you don't want to do it yourself, find a good service place you can trust. Toyotas are very easy to change oil, it's not like a BMW.

 

[mrCharlie]

What a great dealer! And the black with tan very nice. Congratulations on making out of this mess.

Thanks! First car in a looong time with an interior than wasn't black or grey. It almost tempted me to upgrade in the first place.

 

[DOMINIC]

Adding to the above post: The advisor came back with a case of Toyota 0W-20 oil and filled it up to the correct level. After a few seconds the engine sounded pretty much normal again, even when revved. It was a little lumpy (but it is anyway...) and seems to run fine for the 14 mile, two stop drive home. Idles and revs as normal, old pressure gauge looks good.

All service for new petrol and diesel use engine oil 10W-30/40 ! THE RICH OIL IS KILLER FOR NEW DIESEL ENGINE WITH DPF

 

[mrCharlie]

Late to the topic, but a few points.
1. Turbo was likely not spinning, as MrCharlie described his short engine run and drive would NOT have created heat and load bringing turbo into play.
2. every engine starts with no oil pressure and a design feature of all engine/motor lubricants is to 'cling' to engine parts for this reality.
3. Engine noise was likely low/no oil pressure to valve lash adjusters and cam drive chain tensioner. Again, as short run time/low engine load he reported, not much to worry about here.
4. Engine oil analysis and filter inspection is best documentation step.
5. Quality dealer should handle these issues without Toyota Corporate involvement, as happened here. Toyota is not a party to the retail transaction (purchase or customer-paid service), nor dealer workmanship issues... that's what Garage Keepers insurance is for. Toyota CAN be a voice on your behalf for non-responsive dealers that gladly was not a factor here.
6. Engine/hybrid control module likely stores a DTC code (P0524) for engine RPM >500 and no oil pressure. Codes may be stores and visible to Toyota Corporate and if it sets timed with a Toyota dealer oil change, (visible in Toyota National Service History database) would likely be proof to deny engine damage claims and probably make a Toyota Service Contract an invalid option for long-term insurance against unforeseen lubrication-related durability issues.

Thanks! This is extremely insightful.

I agree that most likely it was okay and any damage minimal, pending oil inspection. I was always going to be paranoid though about longevity, and probably end up trading it early. The warranty concerns make me even happier that I ended up trading it in.

 

[dpcompt]

I had a Honda Integra Type R in the 1990's and the oil pressure dropped and the car went into limp mode. Honda replaced the engine, no questions asked. If you push they will either replace the car or the engine. And remember, the dealer has insurance for some of thes eff ups. You have a new car and the dealer caused a potential problem down the road. And Toyota has a very proud reputation to keep. Let the dealer and Toyota work it out. Maybe where you live is different, but in CA they have to fix it and that is either a new engine or a new replacement vehicle. It's their problem, not yours.

 

[EOD Guy]

Seriously, some of you should actually read the man's post! He traded it in...............

 

[Olegator]

Congrats on the happy ending!

 

[ultane]

All service for new petrol and diesel use engine oil 10W-30/40 ! THE RICH OIL IS KILLER FOR NEW DIESEL ENGINE WITH DPF

I’m not sure what your link is addressing, but welcome to the asylum DOMINIC.