My understanding is that not all of the oil is filtered with each pass to the filter, since there is a bypass valve in the filter.
Suggestion: Complete a break-in oil change on your new Land Cruiser
- Thread starter thomez
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It is my understanding the bypass valve only come into play if the filter media becomes overloaded with stuff, which with good maintenance will never occur. True?
True
There is a raison why manufacturer do not ask for a 500 miles oil change anymore and it’s not only to save the planet because they have to honor the warranty.
My belief is the oil is way better, the engine fabrication is more precise and there is also more polishing/cleaning if the parts before assembling. The oil filter does the rest but it will be nice if someone open the filter after the first oil change to see how much particle there is.
Anyway, no disadvantage to do a beak-in oil change so if you have the money and you want to keep your LC for 300k miles, go for it!
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Actually, "fossil fuel” is an invention by Rockefeller to classified oil as a natural product to protect Standard Oil corporation 100+ years ago. Now we drill way deeper than any fossil ever found and we find huge hydrocarbons reservoirs.
Cassini probe went to Titan moon and find 100x more hydrocarbon than on hearth and it’s -250d so no dinosaur there... They finally found that hydraulic pressure (deep in the crust) combine with heat, water and carbon will generate fuel (Hydrothermal). Titan natural gas is liquid in massive ocean because of the surface temperature.
Oil and gas if forming as we speak deep in the Earth crust and we will have that ressource for a long time contrary to the narrative.
And for the Canadians, 1600 km / and then every 8000 km
If you follow Tundra forum they have a recall for motors seizing due to machining debri left in block during manufacturing . The filter didn't stop it . Change your oil early to see if they are clean is doesn't matter whats in the filter only whats missed and in the oil
Every 4k miles new fiter, no exceptions.
20 years in the petrochemical industry , engineer, the rest is EPA BS.
Amsoil and filters are a top pick of those in the know.
Enjoy.
20 years in the petrochemical industry , engineer, the rest is EPA BS.
Amsoil and filters are a top pick of those in the know.
Enjoy.
I was going to use Amsoil, Amsoil also offers a filter, my initial thinking was to use Amsoil oil and a OEM Toyota filter, but it would be easier to not have to run to the Toyota dealer just to buy a filter when Amsoil will send me one in the box with the oil.
Which is all a long winded way of asking if the Amsoil filter is good enough or should I go with the OEM Toyota filter?
I personally drink a glass of heavy crude before going to bed.
Ams offers several grades of filter. its not so critical as to what you use as long as you change both more often than not.
For break in the lowest grade AMS filter and oil, i go, 500, 1k, 2k, then every 4k religiously regardless of diesels or gas, have multiples of both. Once broke in i like the AMS better grade oil and filter because i sleep better and can afford it. Th OEM factory filters tend to be very good. If you do a lot of dusty off road stuff or are out for extended periods of time in dust, often is the key.
Did my first oil change at 1060km. Just the oil, not the filter as suggested by the Motor Oil Geek.
I have done my own oil changes for most of my driving years and was surprised by the strong odour of gasoline.
The change was relatively simple as the 1958 has a small hatch on the skid plate that is held on by 3 bolts allowing access to the drain plug. Ramps would have been nice but they are certainly not required.
The only problem was that the oil came out with such force that it splashed out of my drain pan and sprayed my driveway. Is that because it is 0W-20??? Any suggestions to prevent splash? I moved the drain pan up and down to try to minimize the spray but to no avail.
I was disturbed by the amount of particles that were at the bottom of my drain pan when I poured the old oil out (see attached pic). I cannot be certain that it was all from the Land Cruiser because I did change the oil in our Tacoma last fall, but I always wipe the drain pan clean with paper towel before storing it in a large Zip Lock bag. I did not inspect the drain pan before the oil change because I was not expecting to find this much particulate.
I have done my own oil changes for most of my driving years and was surprised by the strong odour of gasoline.
The change was relatively simple as the 1958 has a small hatch on the skid plate that is held on by 3 bolts allowing access to the drain plug. Ramps would have been nice but they are certainly not required.
The only problem was that the oil came out with such force that it splashed out of my drain pan and sprayed my driveway. Is that because it is 0W-20??? Any suggestions to prevent splash? I moved the drain pan up and down to try to minimize the spray but to no avail.
I was disturbed by the amount of particles that were at the bottom of my drain pan when I poured the old oil out (see attached pic). I cannot be certain that it was all from the Land Cruiser because I did change the oil in our Tacoma last fall, but I always wipe the drain pan clean with paper towel before storing it in a large Zip Lock bag. I did not inspect the drain pan before the oil change because I was not expecting to find this much particulate.
I went with the Fumoto valve with nipple to attach a hose. Many people doing their own oil changes are going that route.
That happened to me as well.
These should help.. They make changing Miss Daisy's oil a 15 minute job, if you pull into the car port and drive directly up onto waiting ramps, with everything set out and waiting for you. Oil analysis would be a great idea. I used Blackstone for over a decade, but they were taking over a month to get me the results, so I recently switched to SPEEDiagnostix, "The Motor Oil Geek's" business.
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Interesting how consensus seems to change - 10-15 years ago I kept hearing about cars coming from the factory with a special "break-in" oil and that the oil shouldn't be changed early so as to permit the break-in oil to do its job. Now it seems there's no mention of a "break-in" oil. Well, I for one, am planning on doing an oil change at 1,000 miles.
Thanks. I like the funnel. I found out that a regular funnel will not stay in the filler hole.
Your middle link requires an Amazon account to view? I tend to avoid them if I can.
Sorry. I was just referencing the page where I bought something.. now it’s broken for me too. I think (pretty sure) it was for the oil filter wrench, nicest one I’ve ever had..
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