Land Cruiser 250 Maintenance Map - Input welcome

[WeCruising]

Just took my LC250 in for the 35,000 mile service.They recommended "emission system cleaner ($180) and "intake maintenance service" ($184).

Naturally I was suspicious, so I thought to post in here and it got me thinking about "required" verses "recommended" services and what to watch out for. Ex. upselling me verses what I need to take care of.

 

[ultane]

Just took my LC250 in for the 35,000 mile service.They recommended "emission system cleaner ($180) and "intake maintenance service" ($184).

Naturally I was suspicious, so I thought to post in here and it got me thinking about "required" verses "recommended" services and what to watch out for. Ex. upselling me verses what I need to take care of.

I would find another dealer.

 

[t3lcfe]

Just took my LC250 in for the 35,000 mile service.They recommended "emission system cleaner ($180) and "intake maintenance service" ($184).

Naturally I was suspicious, so I thought to post in here and it got me thinking about "required" verses "recommended" services and what to watch out for. Ex. upselling me verses what I need to take care of.

Dealerships make most $$$ through services. They always try to “recommend” / sell their services with all kind of stuffs…that you don’t need…but try to scare you. It’s the way they run businesses.

Personally, I try to void to visit dealers and choose a private shop I knew and trusted if I need some works done by pro
Last time I visited to replace the bad battery per Toyota warranty, while working on it, they also asked me to do the wheel alignment, AC clean, etc. I just politely refused it !

 

[RideWithYanu]

This would be a very worthy thread to sticky.

 

[SGaynor]

Very nice.

Comment: If you are going to replace the front diff fluid at 15k, you should do the center and rear while you're at it. Makes no sense to do just one.

Personally, I do (and will do on my new LC) the diffs (front, rear, center) at 5-10k to remove any metal material from break-in, and then every 25k thereafter (30K is fine). Oil is cheap, diffs are not.

 

[SGaynor]

Just took my LC250 in for the 35,000 mile service.They recommended "emission system cleaner ($180) and "intake maintenance service" ($184).

Naturally I was suspicious, so I thought to post in here and it got me thinking about "required" verses "recommended" services and what to watch out for. Ex. upselling me verses what I need to take care of.

Periodically cleaning your intake should be done. Way back in the day, I had a 2000 Suburban that began to stall randomly - it was the intake throttle butterfly valve getting stuck due to varnish build up in the throttle body. I now clean my throttle bodies once a year.

You can clean it easily enough yourself. Just note, with the modern throttle bodies, you don't want to be manually moving the butterfly valve (the video below says you can gently open the valve - YMMV). Just undo the air intake at it, hit it with throttle body cleaner (CRC at AutoZone/Adv Auto/etc) and wipe it out.

Like I said, it's easy enough to do yourself. If you don't want to/can't do it, $180 sounds about right (maybe a bit high), considering a lot of dealers are at $175/h for shop time.

 

[WeCruising]

Periodically cleaning your intake should be done. Way back in the day, I had a 2000 Suburban that began to stall randomly - it was the intake throttle butterfly valve getting stuck due to varnish build up in the throttle body. I now clean my throttle bodies once a year.

You can clean it easily enough yourself. Just note, with the modern throttle bodies, you don't want to be manually moving the butterfly valve (the video below says you can gently open the valve - YMMV). Just undo the air intake at it, hit it with throttle body cleaner (CRC at AutoZone/Adv Auto/etc) and wipe it out.

Like I said, it's easy enough to do yourself. If you don't want to/can't do it, $180 sounds about right (maybe a bit high), considering a lot of dealers are at $175/h for shop time.

Great video! Thank you for sharing. I try and do as much maintenance myself as I can (within reason).

As another poster stated, it would be great to sticky a general maintenance guide for the average user in this forum. I am a bit of a newb on forums, so I am not sure how to get that started.

 

[ultane]

Very nice.

Comment: If you are going to replace the front diff fluid at 15k, you should do the center and rear while you're at it. Makes no sense to do just one.

Personally, I do (and will do on my new LC) the diffs (front, rear, center) at 5-10k to remove any metal material from break-in, and then every 25k thereafter (30K is fine). Oil is cheap, diffs are not.

Welcome to the asylum.

 

[MAC25LC]

Great video! Thank you for sharing. I try and do as much maintenance myself as I can (within reason).

As another poster stated, it would be great to sticky a general maintenance guide for the average user in this forum. I am a bit of a newb on forums, so I am not sure how to get that started.

Ask EOD GUY, he did it for Part Numbers Only

 

[GR8Santini]

Caution Flag. Throttle body cleaning may be a bit more involved DIY maintenance on a T24A engine than some are comfortable doing.

The T24A throttle body is located on the drivers side (US spec) where the cold charge pipe coming out of the intercooler connects to a curved plastic intake plenum, which attaches to the side draft throttle body. That plenum will need to be unbolted & removed to do this maintenance. You need the access to be able to see what you’re doing during the cleaning procedure.

Up front, I haven’t done throttle body maintenance on a T24A LC.

I did do a throttle body maintenance cleaning on our V35A Sequoia a couple of years ago to correct a slightly rough idle, & it cured the problem. The process I used is different than what the CarGuy’s video showed.

• Source an APPROVED & labeled electronic throttle body cleaner
• I left the battery connections attached
• Disconnect charge pipe intake bellows/boot @ throttle body plenum
• Unbolt & remove curved plastic throttle intake plenum
• DO NOT SPRAY down the throttle body throat (throttle body is drive-by-wire controlled & has sensitive electronics directly attached)
• Using synthetic rag soaked w/cleaner gently wipe on the closed throttle body plate face until clean
• WITHOUT stepping on brake pedal, get a helper to push start button to get to ‘ignition on’ without engine running.
• Helper steps full compression on gas pedal & holds to open throttle plate.
• Using synthetic rag clean the carbon ring where throttle plate normally closes on throat
• Using synthetic rag clean the backside of throttle plate while it is in open position
• Helper releases gas pedal & turns vehicle ignition off
• If really dirty may require removing throttle body & bench clean
• Reinstall intake plenum, boot & charge pipe connections.
• Make sure all vehicle accessories are off
• Turn on ignition (Don’t Start) for 2 minutes without starting (synchs throttle body idle set)
• Turn ignition off
• Now start vehicle idling for 5 min to let ‘vehicle idle relearn procedure’ run
• Turn on AC while idling for another 2-3 min
• Go drive vehicle for 10 min

I think this maintenance may be a bit more challenging to do on a T24A than the V35A, & may require removing the throttle body if very dirty.

Suggest to proceed w/ caution.
For some it may be worth paying a dealer to clean.

 

[Calokie]

5k... i'm doing 4k unless my blackstone report comes back tip top

Just sent my blackstone report out yesterday with 3927 on the 0-w20 Toyota oil
LC has Total 14070 miles

 

[Mopper]

Just sent my blackstone report out yesterday with 3927 on the 0-w20 Toyota oil
LC has Total 14070 miles

I'm very interested in your results, thanks for keeping us up!

 

[Captain Trips]

I'm very interested in your results, thanks for keeping us up!

I have done two black stones and each one was 10,000 miles apart and on the last one they were recommending I could go 12,000 miles.

 

[Captain Trips]

I really like this chart, but I only do the Toyota recommended maintenance that is in their little scheduled booklet. I wouldn’t mind seeing one of those if it’s not too much trouble. I don’t do any of the extra opinionated maintenances that some of the Youtubers and that some of the stealerships are pushing out. For example, your listing engine oil changes every 5000 miles and Toyota recommends 10,000. Other items include diferential fluid changes where Toyota recommended is only to check them at those mileages. Just saying.

 

[ERROR504]

You are correct, sir! Thanks @QuickSilver66 !
With this correction and a couple typo's and formatting changes, this brings us to Version 1.5.View attachment 70976

This is awesome thank you!

 

[MSINAL]

I really like this chart, but I only do the Toyota recommended maintenance that is in their little scheduled booklet. I wouldn’t mind seeing one of those if it’s not too much trouble. I don’t do any of the extra opinionated maintenances that some of the Youtubers and that some of the stealerships are pushing out. For example, your listing engine oil changes every 5000 miles and Toyota recommends 10,000. Other items include diferential fluid changes where Toyota recommended is only to check them at those mileages. Just saying.

10k oil change is too high based on oil analyses for maximum longevity (assuming typical usage). Manufacturers are pressured into these high intervals by EV competition, marketing, and government bureaucrats that think they're gods.
If you're keeping it long-term, you might want to research benefits of shorter engine oil and transmission intervals. If not, then stick with the minimum OEM requirements.

 

[wpage]

10k oil change is too high based on oil analyses for maximum longevity (assuming typical usage). Manufacturers are pressured into these high intervals by EV competition, marketing, and government bureaucrats that think they're gods.
If you're keeping it long-term, you might want to research benefits of shorter engine oil and transmission intervals. If not, then stick with the minimum OEM requirements.

Its a choice. The initial oil change is worthy to see if you have a manufacturing error/defect. After that as you check your oil, with full synthetics 5k in my opinion is aggressive. Unless you are pushing hard on the engine.

 

[MSINAL]

Its a choice. The initial oil change is worthy to see if you have a manufacturing error/defect. After that as you check your oil, with full synthetics 5k in my opinion is aggressive. Unless you are pushing hard on the engine.

Agree more or less, but is really necessary to do oil analysis based on your usage to determine change interval, not arbitrary mileage. Some people may idle the car stationary for hours a day, like police, others may only do highway miles in perfect environments. The oil itself makes a big difference too. With 0W20, it is a risk in my opinion to rely on it for 10k miles. If i'm towing heavy at 9500 miles is the oil providing optimal lubrication? For my usage no, especially since i have lots of idle time from using remote start to cool down interior.

 

[RideWithYanu]

I think OP summed it well in the very first post:

I think we all agree that oil needs changing at least every 5K, if not, this guide is probably not for you.

For those that don’t think oil changes need to be done more frequently than what Toyota dictates, this probably just isn’t the guide for them, and they could refer to the maintenance schedule in the Warranty & Maintenance Guide.

 

[GR8Santini]

Agree more or less, but is really necessary to do oil analysis based on your usage to determine change interval, not arbitrary mileage. Some people may idle the car stationary for hours a day, like police, others may only do highway miles in perfect environments. The oil itself makes a big difference too. With 0W20, it is a risk in my opinion to rely on it for 10k miles. If i'm towing heavy at 9500 miles is the oil providing optimal lubrication? For my usage no, especially since i have lots of idle time from using remote start to cool

Not interested at all in using an oil analysis in order to extend my LC OLF cycles. With our LC’s hard duty cycles I will not risk running oil longer. Every oil can shear & fail at some point. For the same cost of one Blackstone or SpeedDiagnotix premium oil evaluation I can change my own oil 3x & know I have fresh oil & new Toyota filter. My perspective is the oil changes are a better ROI.

I’m a fan of Blackstone & use them several times a year to determine health on a 40 y/o IO-360 Lycoming engine, & that analysis is used for extending engine life by knowing condition & what additives are recommended, not in extending the oil change timing.