I'll try to respond tomorrow, but the short answer is that I did not install the lights yet. However, between myself and two other members, I believe we do have a workable solution that utilizes the OEM connectors. Definitely don't remove the connectors from the running boards!
I bought these as well to connect the Slee light kit as well. It does work. But as noted in a previous post, they are not very bright, but it's enough light for me.
that's exactly what I'm going to do! It took a bit to get them, but I have them now.
The stick nuts were not difficult for me to use. What made it difficult for you?
Getting the things bent just right so they would align with the hole flat. There is a joke in there somewhere.
More than likely the weld on the frame needed to be ground down a little bit to make it fit better. I managed to install both of my sliders without any grinding, but that can be an issue depending on the amount of excess weld. I had a friend help me install the sliders - it's pretty tough to do by yourself.Getting the things bent just right so they would align with the hole flat. There is a joke in there somewhere.
The slider had a pretty good gap too that I needed a jack to push it up just the bolts would start. Maybe if the bolts were a little longer it would have been easier for me. Heck maybe it's just me and I suck.
Good point, I didn't think of that. Had plenty of help from my wife
There was a single plastic piece left in the frame that was not obvious to me when I installed mine, and it was NOT listed as to be removed in the directions. The slider would not mount/line up correctly until that piece of plastic was removed, although the slider could get mounted with some space due to the plastic being crushed between the slider bracket and frame. It only just barely was sandwiched in there, and when installing it wasn't obvious that it would be in the way. I brought it in and Slee found the issue and removed the plastic bracket (that I did not even know was there!), and then it sat flush with the frame. It was on the rear driver side, pictures below.Getting the things bent just right so they would align with the hole flat. There is a joke in there somewhere.
The slider had a pretty good gap too that I needed a jack to push it up just the bolts would start. Maybe if the bolts were a little longer it would have been easier for me. Heck maybe it's just me and I suck.
This rig looks terrific. I want those wheels this spring! I stopped at Slee today and asked them about them and they had these on a LC on the floor. I didn't ask them to unlock the car but you mind commenting on the length for the back door. Does it stop too short to be useful as a step for rear passengers? On the LC in the shop it looked like it may but the only way to really tell is open the door. For me it's between these and the RCI's. The RCI's are cheaper and I like the kick out in the back but these Slees look so nice and clean - and they have a lighting option.
I have them installed and I'd say it works as a step still, but it's not ideal. Even if they didn't do a kick out, if they had done a shorter taper it would have been better. Other than that I've been very happy with them.
The step is full width under the door sill and tapers back from there. If you put your foot down in the right place (under the door sill), then you'll have a full width. If you aren't paying attention and rotate your body and step out towards the rear, you might land on the much narrower tapered portion of the step. I always teach people how to use the steps and grab handles to enter and exit the truck (use the interior hand to grab the handle, step up with your exterior foot, then climb in. Reverse the process to get out - step out backwards.) I have not had anyone slip on the rear portion of the step.
looks good
I bought em today. It was between the RCIs and the Slee and I like the look of them both. The Slee slider, while much more expensive, has such a nice clean look and the lighting option. I’m hoping that they figure out the electrical connections so it’s plug and play! I’m not spinning around rocks and using the slider as a pivot point or anything like that. I need rocker panel protection for those instances when I will scrape. These will get that done and they looked great in the shop yesterday.
Thanks for this. I want to make sure I’m clear. Are you saying that if I use the harness that the current running boards are plugging into that they will not produce much light? Tx.
Yes, they will not provide the lights full potential since the OEM harness only produces 9VDC (12VDC on the positive side and 3VDC on the negative side) vice 12VDC (True Battery power and ground). The OEM harness provides a constant 12VDC on the positive side and varies the voltage on the ground side from 12VDC (Lights off) to 3VDC (Lights on).
They did not add it to the directions. I was installing these myself and I had to pull that one back down after I already had it up, remove that piece of plastic (I also had a wire there) and then it sat flat. The stick nuts took me a while to figure out, as I couldn't tell from the picture that the actual "nut" went inside. Once I figured that out I was good there. But a difficult install for me installing alone. One other person to do some balancing would have been helpful.
