Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

Doubt it. 0W-20 oils are for the EPA/CAFE standards. Nothing else.

GM went right to 0W-40 from 0W-20 when bearings started to fail in the 6.2L.
Lots of extremely reliable engines on 0w-20 oil. Chevy engineers knew the assignment and they failed. Probably for a variety of reasons. Toyota has built some bombproof engines designed to run 0w-20.

I owned a Chevy once…. ONCE.
 
Doubt it. 0W-20 oils are for the EPA/CAFE standards. Nothing else.

GM went right to 0W-40 from 0W-20 when bearings started to fail in the 6.2L.
There is always going to be debate about motor oil viscosity, there are threads going back 10,11, years (probably more) on Bob is the oil guy forum regarding Motor Oil viscosity.

GM went right to the higher viscosity because of crankshaft surface finish, essentially GM did not finish the crankshaft surface properly (iirc it was too rough), so they went to 0W-40 to compensate. The point being it was a manufacturing defect, the 0W-20 did not cause the issue, if the crank was made properly, 0W-20 would have been fine.

Now, none of that speaks to if 0W-20 oils are needed or not nor even if they are a good idea or not, people far smarter than me can opine on that.

Did this action solve GM's issues? Not being a skeptic, just asking, as I do not follow GM products.
Yes and no, if the engine had a crank-cam correlation code, GM said to replace the engine as the bearings had in all likelihood failed or were failing.

There were two issues, extra debris in the engines than there should have been and GM did not recommend a break-in oil change which would have removed that extra debris and improperly made crankshafts, increasing the oil viscosity to compensate for improperly made crankshafts.

The 0W-40 was a band-aid because GM did not want to replace all the engines with the improperly made crankshafts, in the later years 2026 (at least could even 2025) of the L87 engines they have gone back to 0W-20 presumably because they have fixed the issues with the improperly made crankshafts.
 
Last edited:
The 0W-40 was a band-aid because GM did not want to replace all the engines with the improperly made crankshafts, in the later years 2026 (at least could even 2025) of the L87 engines they have gone back to 0W-20 presumably because they have fixed the issues with the improperly made crankshafts.
I’m glad they fixed the problem.. (if they really did).
 
I run 5W-30 in my ‘20 Tundra…have since first change, and will run 5W-30 in the LC.

It is clear Toyota approves. With as much power as this 2.4 puts out, the heavier weight will protect better with more film thickness.

Others will do as they see fit and that’s cool too.
 
Took mine in for dealer svc @ 2700 miles. Looking for oil change, squealy brakes, and rough shift points. My svc guy, said brake solution parts still on back order. Trans shift points will improve over time. They moved up my free 10k oil change and rotation no charge. Wonder if the free 20 k can be moved up at 7700 point? Keeping with the idea of early is better with oil changes...
What do you think?
 
A good dealer will move it up. Mine did on both my 24 LC and 26 4Runner. Although they did question me both times making sure that I knew that once I used them up, they were no longer free and I said yes I understand. - Once they are used up, I put Fumoto on and take care of it on my own.
 
A good dealer will move it up. Mine did on both my 24 LC and 26 4Runner. Although they did question me both times making sure that I knew that once I used them up, they were no longer free and I said yes I understand. - Once they are used up, I put Fumoto on and take care of it on my own.
Dealerships run the gamut from good to terrible and everything in-between.

The dealer where I bought my LC from said absolutely not, when I asked for an oil change early.

I said, would you change the oil if I paid out of pocket, the service writer said sure, but if you want Toyota care, you need to wait to the interval that Toyota states.

So, I said then I will do it at home, he said do you know how, I said I do, but if I need a refresher, I can always go to YouTube University.

I then looked him in the eyes and said this why people hate Dealerships because it is not a good customer experience.
 
10 and 20 k miles i too much. The oil change should be at 5k as others agreed. So even if thats the t=Toyota rule..
If you should chose to move up the interval. The warrentee calls for every 6 months or... So why would they care if you move it up and then do your own manintenence?? Document your own things like oil and filter changes.
If a fail shoul occur. Dont get caught holding the bag
 
How many folks use fumoto (or equivalent) valves for changes? Any reason not to with this vehicle? Alternatively, is there a 'better' version? TIA!
 
How many folks use fumoto (or equivalent) valves for changes? Any reason not to with this vehicle? Alternatively, is there a 'better' version? TIA!

My only advice is consider removing the Fumoto valve before going to the dealership if your dealership terrible.

I had an issue a few years back where a local Toyota dealership threatened to invalidate the new car warranty over a Fumoto valve and when I pushed back, they tried to charge me to remove it and inspect it.

Again, you don't have to worry if your dealership is not terrible.
 
How many folks use fumoto (or equivalent) valves for changes? Any reason not to with this vehicle? Alternatively, is there a 'better' version? TIA!
Welcome to the asylum Prob.

I have used a Fumoto on MIss Daisy since her first oil change. Very easy install with only a crescent wrench. No torque wrench needed. They come with a little plastic lock mechanism. I use the one with a little bit of a nipple on it, that accepts a 3/8” clear plastic hose, which helps with ‘spatter’ when the wind is blowing. My original dealership lost the locking mechanism, and the rubber cap for the nipple. I found replacements on Bezoar’s site. If you go to the Fumoto website, enter your vehicle, and search, they will tell you which one to buy. There is a new design which has a higher flow rate. They make oil sample collection for oil analysis much easier (cleaner) and even allow mid cycle collections without a complete oil change. Some vendors on Bezoar’s site even sell the Fumoto valve, with a hose included, as a kit.

Motivex tools makes a great oil filter wrench for the LC, as well as a funnel which screws into the oil fill hole on top of the engine, making spills much less likely when pouring at eye level, (assuming your LC is up on ramps).
 
Last edited:
I had an issue a few years back where a local Toyota dealership threatened to invalidate the new car warranty over a Fumoto valve and when I pushed back, they tried to charge me to remove it and inspect it.
Thankfully the federal law makes it illegal for the dealership to do this, because it would really reduce the convenience of the device if you were to remove it at every dealer visit.
 
Thankfully the federal law makes it illegal for the dealership to do this, because it would really reduce the convenience of the device if you were to remove it at every dealer visit.
So, really bad dealerships are really good at being really bad.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty allows for invalidating of a part of a warranty if they claim that the aftermarket part caused damage.

So, in my case, they were claiming that my Fumoto valve could damage the threads of the oil pan, potentially causing the oil to leak out and damage the engine.

The burden of proof would be on them, but the threat is usually enough to make people nervous.

I told the service writer to get lost, I removed the valve myself and that was that, never went back to that dealership.
 
Last edited:
So, really bad dealerships are really good at being really bad.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty allows for invalidating of a part of a warranty if they claim that the aftermarket part caused damage.

So, in my case, they were claiming that my Fumoto valve could damage the threads of the oil pan, potentially causing the oil to leak out and damage the engine.

The burden of proof would be on them, but the threat is usually enough to make people nervous.

I told the service write to get lost, I removed the valve myself and that was that, never went back to that dealership.
Yeah, that’s a 💩 dealer for sure. I would have done the same (except remove it).
 
Yeah, that’s a 💩 dealer for sure. I would have done the same (except remove it).
I removed the Fumoto valve at the time because the four Toyota dealers in my area were owned by two dealer groups, so it was a choice of the lesser evil and I didn't trust that the other group wouldn't be as crappy, considering the crap they tried to pull with my Father.

Since one dealer group sold both Toyota stores, it has been a bit better, but the dealership experience still sucks across the board.
 
If you DIY oil changes looking for a deal, World Toyota is having a great sale again.
2 cases (12 qts) of Toyota spec Mobil 1 synthetic 5W30 (Toyota pn# 00279-MB5W3) & 6 Toyota oil filters for $92.30 w/ free shipping. Cost less than what my local dealer charges for 1 oil change. I can do both our Tundra & Land Cruiser oil change & have 4 spare oil filters.
 
Last edited:
If you DIY oil changes looking for a deal, World Toyota is having a great sale again.
2 cases (12 qts) of Toyota spec Mobil 1 synthetic 5W30 (Toyota pn# 00279-MB5W3) & 6 Toyota oil filters (PN# 90915-10010) for $92.30 w/ free shipping. Cost less than what my local dealer charges for 1 oil change. I can do both our Tundra & Land Cruiser oil change & have 4 spare oil filters.

View attachment 70877

View attachment 70878
Costco sells that oil for $36 a case. And it doesn’t have the molybdenum levels (maybe 1/10) of Toyota oil (made by Exxon for Toyota).
 
Supporting Vendors View all →
Back
Top Bottom