Another benefit of almost 3” front lifted (2” rear lifted) and 35” tires is for regular 5K mile-engine oil change. No need ramps of stuffs like that, I can “freely roll all over underneath” of my rig to do “whatever” I want
. I love “her” more 
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Answer to question about thin oil:
Ramps are the way to go.I have ramps so I used them. I'm sure you could do it without but it makes it easier. Plus I can use my speed handle on the skid plate bolts.
Thinner oils are supposedly recommended because tolerances on new engines is so tight, thicker oils won't get into the gaps and lubricate.I love TCCN, but I thought thinner oils were for better fuel economy? Not emissions?
I would think a thicker oil than the engine is engineered for might not be a good thing, in particular starting in a sub-zero environment. Would not wish to spin a bearing...Thinner oils are supposedly recommended because tolerances on new engines is so tight, thicker oils won't get into the gaps and lubricate.
I get the arguments. And I mean no disrespect to anyone here. I know there's a wealth of knowledge here. But I wouldn't ever elevate the recommendation of a stranger on a forum over the knowledge of a Toyota engineer. My independent Toyota mechanic tells me to use the recommended oil as well. The only disagreement I have is the intervals. I change at 5k, my mechanic actually still recommends 3k. But I was doing 3k intervals at first and the discarded oil looked brand new. So I'm sticking with 5k. And there's absolutely no harm that can come from doing oil changes more frequently. A lot of old-school wisdom just doesn't always translate to modern technology.I would think a thicker oil than the engine is engineered for might not be a good thing, in particular starting in a sub-zero environment. Would not wish to spin a bearing...
Perhaps you misunderstood Nuke (or I misunderstand you), they are also saying to take the direction of the Toyota Engineers.I get the arguments. And I mean no disrespect to anyone here. I know there's a wealth of knowledge here. But I wouldn't ever elevate the recommendation of a stranger on a forum over the knowledge of a Toyota engineer. My independent Toyota mechanic tells me to use the recommended oil as well. The only disagreement I have is the intervals. I change at 5k, my mechanic actually still recommends 3k. But I was doing 3k intervals at first and the discarded oil looked brand new. So I'm sticking with 5k. And there's absolutely no harm that can come from doing oil changes more frequently.
Yes, I did misread it. I missed the "Not". LOL. But I've seen so many arguments at this point from people saying it's perfectly fine to run 87 octane and 10W40 oil...Perhaps you misunderstood Nuke (or I misunderstand you), they are also saying to take the direction of the Toyota Engineers.
Yes. This I know.Thinner oils are supposedly recommended because tolerances on new engines is so tight, thicker oils won't get into the gaps and lubricate.
This is simply not true. The same powertrain for the Tacoma/4Runner in Mexico and Russia lists 5W-30 and 10W-30 as acceptable oil weights.Thinner oils are supposedly recommended because tolerances on new engines is so tight, thicker oils won't get into the gaps and lubricate.
And we are sure the clearances are the same, and no differences in other calibrations, such as the variable oil pump and cam timing mechanisms? The thing is, the engine seems to be solid and reliable with 0W-20. Good grief, essentially the same engine, but normally aspirated, in other Toyota vehicles uses 0W-8, and some are concerned about 0W-20?This is simply not true. The same powertrain for the Tacoma/4Runner in Mexico and Russia lists 5W-30 and 10W-30 as acceptable oil weights.
Clearance is the term. Tolerance refers to a range of acceptable clearance.
Why would they be different? They use the same engine series numbers in these markets.And we are sure the clearances are the same, and no differences in other calibrations, such as the variable oil pump and cam timing mechanisms? The thing is, the engine seems to be solid and reliable with 0W-20. Good grief, essentially the same engine, but normally aspirated, in other Toyota vehicles uses 0W-8, and some are concerned about 0W-20?
Yes, same bore and strike, but there could be differences elsewhere. Just asking, as I honestly do not know. We also have to remember these engines are computer-controlled, and could be calibrated differently for different markets/countries. In years past for example, engines would have different cams, compression, ignition timing, carburetors, etc. Now that is all controlled by the ECU.Why would they be different? They use the same engine series numbers in these markets.
Best example I can think of is the OEM factory service manual for the 5.7L 3UR-FE. The section that specs oil weight says 0W-20 up to 20W-50 is acceptable.Yes, same bore and strike, but there could be differences elsewhere. Just asking, as I honestly do not know. We also have to remember these engines are computer-controlled, and could be calibrated differently for different markets/countries. In years past for example, engines would have different cams, compression, ignition timing, carburetors, etc. Now that is all controlled by the ECU.
Wow! Many years back I used Pennzoil 20W-50 Racing Oil in VW Beetles. Operating in the desert of southern Nevada, the air-cooled engines would become toasty to the point the #3 valve stem would stretch, and snap if not predictively replaced. However, those engines were very basic, nothing like today.Best example I can think of is the OEM factory service manual for the 5.7L 3UR-FE. The section that specs oil weight says 0W-20 up to 20W-50 is acceptable.
Did this action solve GM's issues? Not being a skeptic, just asking, as I do not follow GM products.Doubt it. 0W-20 oils are for the EPA/CAFE standards. Nothing else.
GM went right to 0W-40 from 0W-20 when bearings started to fail in the 6.2L.