Apparently there is too much isolation between the dealer level and management levels at Toyota these days.
Dealership stripped skid plate bolts and captive nut during oil change
- Thread starter Rook
- Start date
Shame that lazy techs are stripping bolts and receiver. Like mentioned earlier post. Not hard to tap and straighten out the receiver. Then grind some off the bolt ends to recover the damages.
If the dealer wont fix. It is something not very difficult to do yourself.
If the dealer wont fix. It is something not very difficult to do yourself.
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Not to make the issue smaller dealing with the dealer for a fix........
For a DIY'r this is about a " 1 " on a scale of 1-10......... Buy a "tap" from any hardware store, finger start it in the hole, then chase the threads. Buy a new bolt (doesn't even have to be OEM)
For a DIY'r this is about a " 1 " on a scale of 1-10......... Buy a "tap" from any hardware store, finger start it in the hole, then chase the threads. Buy a new bolt (doesn't even have to be OEM)
Issue with the captive nuts is that there is not much material left after being stripped, so chasing the threads will prevent further damage, but certainly wont won't make it whole again. On mine i cant access the nuts to replace or remove them. Is a naive design considering skid plates bolts are always stripped by the service dept., this is nothing new. I asked our repair guys how they handle it, they said if we cant weld a new nut in the welded crossmember, we'd likely have to scrap it.
I’d get a second opinion. There should be more options before scrapping.
I understand.......... In the case of non-recoverable threads I offer a few possible solutions:
1 - Drill out the stripped "blind nut" completely and " IF " the resulting hole isn't too big, use a riv-nut . Yes the result would be slightly raised off the surface of the base metal, but that slight amount will not affect the mounting of the skid plate.
2 - Make a threaded slug from 5/8" round stock, making sure one end is "weld prepped" with a bevel. Drill out the stripped threaded hole to 5/8", then weld the slug into the hole, grind smooth etc..........
3 - If (IDK) there is an access hole (even if it's not close to the "blind nut") take a fairly thick piece of metal, drill and tap a threaded hole, weld that to a piece of strap metal (1/4" by how ever long you need to reach the stripped hole) drill out the stripped "blind nut", the drill two (one on each side) weld holes (prob 1/4' ) fish the threaded piece into and over the drilled out "blind nut" hole, thread a sacrificial bolt into the threaded piece to center it in the hole, then weld the blind piece in place utilizing the two 1/4: weld holes, grind smooth etc.....
I realize not everyone has a welder, but this would not be an expensive job to take to any local welder.
Something similar to how I mounted my cargo strap, but instead of bolting, you would weld.
The dealer installed my Toyota skid plates a couple months ago.
Had the oil changed last week.
The same bolt is stripped on the vehicle side, not the bolt threads.
They will need to fix it.
Maybe a mfg defect on the frame side.
Should be an easy fix.
Had the oil changed last week.
The same bolt is stripped on the vehicle side, not the bolt threads.
They will need to fix it.
Maybe a mfg defect on the frame side.
Should be an easy fix.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #28
The dealership actually fixed it. They were really helpful and got it done in a few hours while I went to a work lunch in one of their rentals.
After a bad experience at Ford (I had Ford points, much like Toyota free oil change*), I take mine to Express Oil Change, I get out of my vehicle and watch them. lol. Despite the budget name, they are actually really good and careful.
*I’m convinced the local dealership put 0w16 in my LC when I did my 500mi break in change.
*I’m convinced the local dealership put 0w16 in my LC when I did my 500mi break in change.
Great tips! I ended up with the slee radiator cross member reinforcement bar, so theyre out of sight for now. I bought rivnuts for the task, i think they're a good solution for the front crossmember because the metal is only ~3mm thick; not enough thread engagement to use a 10mm bolt.
There's always helicoils. And then never let the dealer take off your skid plate again.
Why didn’t I think of that!? Totally skipped right by my mind! I’m guessing red loctite on the coil/frame interface?
That was my first thought until i prepped to install them. There wouldnt be anything left of the welded nut after drilling for the helicoil tap, and the radiator brace is only about 3mm thick, if that. Rivnut is likely easiest repair option for radiator brace at least.
