MPGs - Many People Griping - A Foundational Knowledge Primer To Assist in Better Efficiency

I see, i refueled my LC250 today and filled around 80 liter while the odometer showed around 70km range that means around 7 litre of petrol is left. If there was a sub tank with 30L capacity then the over all range should have been more than.

I am not sure if i am missing something here.
 
Keep trying! It is definitely possible to achieve 29 mpg's on the highway. I did it at sea level on flat terrain in normal mode without much difficulty. The LC had 20 inch OEM wheels and a crossbar but otherwise unmodified.

Below is a summary of information that may be useful if trying to maximize fuel economy.

Background
First, It helps to understand the design philosophy as described by Toyota because the I-Force Max 2.4L hybrid is different than traditional combinations of twin turbos, superchargers, hybrids, or AWD EVs. It uses a standard inline four cylinder turbo as the ICE, mated to a standard 8 speed transmission (less gear searching vs a 10 speed), and with an electric motor (EM) sandwiched in between.

This combination has produced the highest power, highest torque, and highest fuel economy ever in this class of its vehicles (LC and Taco). Other than the electric system, it leverages standard, well proven, and readily available light truck components for the engine, transmission, drive train, suspension, and brakes. It also has the promise of extending the longevity of the vehicle because it has fewer moving parts, and reduces the load on the ICE, transmission, and braking systems over its useful life. Only time will tell.

It is important to understand this architecture because in order to maximize performance the driving technique is counter intuitive. For fuel economy, it should be operated as a very low revving four cylinder vehicle rarely going above 2K RPMs. To do this, the driver must focus on leveraging the electric engine and induce its use as much as possible. Some call this "pulse and glide". Others describe it as driving by RPM vs MPH. Either way, the objective is use the electric engine more and the ICE less.

Driving tactics
1. The electric motor can sustain speeds up to 15mph on its own. RPM is zero and electric sound hums.
2. The EM can solely maintain speeds up to 30mph on its own. Once at speed, RPM drops to zero and electric sound hums. Soft pedal the accelerator so the ICE never kicks in.
3. The EM can sustain highway cruising speeds up to 65 mph while keeping RPMs within the peak torque 1700 to 1800 range using the pulse and glide technique. This gives rapid power delivery and forces the EM to provide the boost rather than revving the ICE or spooling the turbo. RPMs remain constant yet you feel the boost/pulse of the EM to push faster.
4. Just a note. Although not moving, I have noticed the vehicle can run the AC and other systems for a relatively long period of time while parked before the ICE kicks in temporarily and then shuts of automatically. This saves quit a bit of gas compared to other vehicles that must sit there and idle the whole time.

When people complain that they are driving 75 mph and getting lower than expected MPG it suggests they are thinking about it backwards. For those who would complain that it is too much trouble to think about and just want to drive the vehicle, remember that this philosophy will keep you constantly in the optimal power band (about 1800 RPMS) and provide the most rapid power delivery. In sport mode, it is a total blast.

By understanding how this very clever and capable system was designed and re-training your driving instincts it is amazing what can be achieved for both fuel economy and driving performance. I fully expect someone with a little time and practice can break the 30 mpg barrier soon.

Good luck :)

View attachment 42537
Adding one more observation. Cruising on the flat highway at 1,500 RPMS and about 62 MPH consumes about 28 MPGs.

It is as simple as that. The ride is smooth, quiet, and you can instantly boost ahead on battery whenever needed.

29+ is achievable by manipulating the consumption of the battery in what I call "super cruise". It is indicated by maintaining the 60 MPH with the engine RPMs at zero.

Quite a strange feeling but very impressive when you can do it. The tactic takes a little intervention but will squeeze a few more MPGs out of it.
 
Adding one more observation. Cruising on the flat highway at 1,500 RPMS and about 62 MPH consumes about 28 MPGs.

It is as simple as that. The ride is smooth, quiet, and you can instantly boost ahead on battery whenever needed.

29+ is achievable by manipulating the consumption of the battery in what I call "super cruise". It is indicated by maintaining the 60 MPH with the engine RPMs at zero.

Quite a strange feeling but very impressive when you can do it. The tactic takes a little intervention but will squeeze a few more MPGs out of it.
I think it’s also worth noting that the old adage “What gets measured, gets managed” applies here. One of my default dash views is to have the electric boost on one side and the turbo boost on the other because there are times when you don’t even need to be in boost to maintain a steady speed that the engine is in the boost and you wouldn’t know unless you can see it and back off for a second and see the turbo boost drop and steady speeds able to be maintained easily.

It’s also useful because watching the gauges for some period as you drive helps to calibrate pedal pressure and learn some less intuitive things if coming from a non hybrid… such as sometimes a quicker but somewhat shallow jab of the pedal results in the electric boost kicking in fully vs the turbo because its ability to kick in is immediate vs having to spool up. So it sort of runs counter to driving super steady and smoothly but figuring out the right amount of pressure to elicit that electric motor boost in place of gas turbo boost becomes somewhat intuitive after a while. It’s fun to figure out how to drive it and experience all the mid-range torque on tap constantly and also see your mileage increase.
 
Adding one more observation. Cruising on the flat highway at 1,500 RPMS and about 62 MPH consumes about 28 MPGs.

It is as simple as that. The ride is smooth, quiet, and you can instantly boost ahead on battery whenever needed.

29+ is achievable by manipulating the consumption of the battery in what I call "super cruise". It is indicated by maintaining the 60 MPH with the engine RPMs at zero.

Quite a strange feeling but very impressive when you can do it. The tactic takes a little intervention but will squeeze a few more MPGs out of it.
Your speedo is off by 7 percent btw . Check with radars speed checks . Every lc I’ve seen reads 4mpg or so higher at 65, meaning your mpg is impacted by that amount as well
 
Keep trying! It is definitely possible to achieve 29 mpg's on the highway. I did it at sea level on flat terrain in normal mode without much difficulty. The LC had 20 inch OEM wheels and a crossbar but otherwise unmodified.

Below is a summary of information that may be useful if trying to maximize fuel economy.

Background
First, It helps to understand the design philosophy as described by Toyota because the I-Force Max 2.4L hybrid is different than traditional combinations of twin turbos, superchargers, hybrids, or AWD EVs. It uses a standard inline four cylinder turbo as the ICE, mated to a standard 8 speed transmission (less gear searching vs a 10 speed), and with an electric motor (EM) sandwiched in between.

This combination has produced the highest power, highest torque, and highest fuel economy ever in this class of its vehicles (LC and Taco). Other than the electric system, it leverages standard, well proven, and readily available light truck components for the engine, transmission, drive train, suspension, and brakes. It also has the promise of extending the longevity of the vehicle because it has fewer moving parts, and reduces the load on the ICE, transmission, and braking systems over its useful life. Only time will tell.

It is important to understand this architecture because in order to maximize performance the driving technique is counter intuitive. For fuel economy, it should be operated as a very low revving four cylinder vehicle rarely going above 2K RPMs. To do this, the driver must focus on leveraging the electric engine and induce its use as much as possible. Some call this "pulse and glide". Others describe it as driving by RPM vs MPH. Either way, the objective is use the electric engine more and the ICE less.

Driving tactics
1. The electric motor can sustain speeds up to 15mph on its own. RPM is zero and electric sound hums.
2. The EM can solely maintain speeds up to 30mph on its own. Once at speed, RPM drops to zero and electric sound hums. Soft pedal the accelerator so the ICE never kicks in.
3. The EM can sustain highway cruising speeds up to 65 mph while keeping RPMs within the peak torque 1700 to 1800 range using the pulse and glide technique. This gives rapid power delivery and forces the EM to provide the boost rather than revving the ICE or spooling the turbo. RPMs remain constant yet you feel the boost/pulse of the EM to push faster.
4. Just a note. Although not moving, I have noticed the vehicle can run the AC and other systems for a relatively long period of time while parked before the ICE kicks in temporarily and then shuts of automatically. This saves quit a bit of gas compared to other vehicles that must sit there and idle the whole time.

When people complain that they are driving 75 mph and getting lower than expected MPG it suggests they are thinking about it backwards. For those who would complain that it is too much trouble to think about and just want to drive the vehicle, remember that this philosophy will keep you constantly in the optimal power band (about 1800 RPMS) and provide the most rapid power delivery. In sport mode, it is a total blast.

By understanding how this very clever and capable system was designed and re-training your driving instincts it is amazing what can be achieved for both fuel economy and driving performance. I fully expect someone with a little time and practice can break the 30 mpg barrier soon.

Good luck :)

View attachment 42537

I’m new to LC and hybrids. We (my wife primarily drives this car) are getting terrible MPG (like 15 mpg) so I figured we must be doing something wrong.

So here is first thing that caught my eye reading your informative post. Our LC rarely uses the electric motor. I cannot drive over 5 mph before the engine starts. So I came to the conclusion that the electric motor was only for Offroad/rock crawling.

So what do we need to do different or what are we doing wrong. We’ve read the OM a fair amount, as there is just a lotta cosmic stuff in this car. But apparently we can’t even get the basics correct.

Thanks
 
I’m new to LC and hybrids. We (my wife primarily drives this car) are getting terrible MPG (like 15 mpg) so I figured we must be doing something wrong.

So here is first thing that caught my eye reading your informative post. Our LC rarely uses the electric motor. I cannot drive over 5 mph before the engine starts. So I came to the conclusion that the electric motor was only for Offroad/rock crawling.

So what do we need to do different or what are we doing wrong. We’ve read the OM a fair amount, as there is just a lotta cosmic stuff in this car. But apparently we can’t even get the basics correct.

Thanks

Just a bit of background info to help understand the drivetrain; you may already know most of this, but in case it’s helpful:
The i‑FORCEMAX hybrid system in the U.S.‑spec Toyota J250 Land Cruiser pairs a 2.4‑liter turbocharged 4‑cylinder engine (T24A‑FTS) with a single electric motor integrated between the engine and an 8‑speed automatic transmission. It’s a full hybrid, but unlike Toyota’s hybrid systems in models like the Prius or RAV4, it’s designed primarily to enhance torque delivery and drivability - especially at low speeds - rather than to provide extended electric-only driving.

The electric motor draws power from a 1.87 kWh nickel‑metal hydride battery located beneath the rear seats. It can technically move the vehicle on electric power alone, but only for very brief moments at low speeds or during light coasting. There’s no EV mode or user-selectable control over electric drive. In most conditions, the motor’s primary role is to supplement the engine, filling in torque during launch, reducing turbo lag, and smoothing stop-start transitions. The electric boost is most noticeable from a standstill or when climbing at low RPMs.

This setup uses a parallel hybrid architecture rather than the power-split design found in Toyota’s Hybrid Synergy Drive. It retains a conventional automatic transmission to maintain familiar driving characteristics and is optimized for durability and performance rather than maximum fuel efficiency. As a result, drivers shouldn’t expect silent electric cruising or the kind of EV-like behavior seen in Toyota’s hybrid sedans. The system is tuned for torque, refinement, and modest efficiency gains in a rugged, body-on-frame platform.
All that being noted, assuming no modifications to your vehicle, you should definitely be able to get higher efficiency than you’re getting. There’s a lot of good information (sift through the nonsense) in this thread and in others where people have shared their practices on how to get as much as high-20s mpgs.
 
I can tell you what I do. First, I use ECO mode exclusively. This is not because I am some sort of eco-warrior. ECO mode reduces throttle sensitivity, allowing your right foot to finesse the switching between gas, electric and turbo activation. In ECO mode the engine shifts into coasting mode (I.e. engine off) pretty much every chance it gets. If you maintain very light pressure on the pedal the vehicle will reactivate the gas engine when needed to maintain speed, but will operate at relatively low rpm’s. This is the formula for highest gas mileage. You can always apply the gas more forcefully to activate the turbo (e.g. to pass or go up a steep hill) but doing this a lot will kill the mileage. I also tend not to overbrake or brake unnecessarily. In addition, it helps if a lot of your driving is on back roads with no stoplights and moderate speeds.
 
I think it’s also worth noting that the old adage “What gets measured, gets managed” applies here. One of my default dash views is to have the electric boost on one side and the turbo boost on the other because there are times when you don’t even need to be in boost to maintain a steady speed that the engine is in the boost and you wouldn’t know unless you can see it and back off for a second and see the turbo boost drop and steady speeds able to be maintained easily.

It’s also useful because watching the gauges for some period as you drive helps to calibrate pedal pressure and learn some less intuitive things if coming from a non hybrid… such as sometimes a quicker but somewhat shallow jab of the pedal results in the electric boost kicking in fully vs the turbo because its ability to kick in is immediate vs having to spool up. So it sort of runs counter to driving super steady and smoothly but figuring out the right amount of pressure to elicit that electric motor boost in place of gas turbo boost becomes somewhat intuitive after a while. It’s fun to figure out how to drive it and experience all the mid-range torque on tap constantly and also see your mileage increase.

I’m new to LC and hybrids. We (my wife primarily drives this car) are getting terrible MPG (like 15 mpg) so I figured we must be doing something wrong.

So here is first thing that caught my eye reading your informative post. Our LC rarely uses the electric motor. I cannot drive over 5 mph before the engine starts. So I came to the conclusion that the electric motor was only for Offroad/rock crawling.

So what do we need to do different or what are we doing wrong. We’ve read the OM a fair amount, as there is just a lotta cosmic stuff in this car. But apparently we can’t even get the basics correct.

Thanks

I can tell you what I do. First, I use ECO mode exclusively. This is not because I am some sort of eco-warrior. ECO mode reduces throttle sensitivity, allowing your right foot to finesse the switching between gas, electric and turbo activation. In ECO mode the engine shifts into coasting mode (I.e. engine off) pretty much every chance it gets. If you maintain very light pressure on the pedal the vehicle will reactivate the gas engine when needed to maintain speed, but will operate at relatively low rpm’s. This is the formula for highest gas mileage. You can always apply the gas more forcefully to activate the turbo (e.g. to pass or go up a steep hill) but doing this a lot will kill the mileage. I also tend not to overbrake or brake unnecessarily. In addition, it helps if a lot of your driving is on back roads with no stoplights and moderate speeds.

So I've been using ECO for the last three tanks of gas (closing in on 1,000 miles) and kept my driving routes / times the same.

My per tank average has climbed from about 22 to 24 MPG, my vehicle average (I have about 5.5K total) is up to 22.6 MPG, and my absolute best drive of more than a couple miles (23 miles in this case) got 29 MPG, though admittedly there was essentially zero traffic and I hit every light.

BUT...I've also noticed that even a short stretch of having to use throttle aggressively to get around traffic, or stop and go that isn't a crawl (like light to light for more than a block) destroys the gas mileage, even if you then have a longer stretch of good conditions.

Also as said above, ECO does not prevent a hard acceleration when needed.

So at the end of the day, I do believe you can get 29 MPG out of an LC; IF you're on flat terrain, can maintain speeds keeping RPMs below 2K, and don't use hard acceleration. But given that it's almost a rectangle on wheels, I'll take that.

I also tried COSmurf's technique of using sharp shallow throttle movements to get max electric boost; I'm not very good at it yet. I'm getting pretty consistent max electric boost (which I rarely see otherwise) but am not good at modulating the throttle to avoid getting turbo boost yet.

I don't intend to drive this way all the time necessarily, but I do enjoy exploring the limits of the car's capability so I have all the tools in my kit so to speak. If I'm ever in a situation where I find myself further between gas stations than I thought, or a long trip in which money is more important than time, I know how to maximize the vehicles capabilities.
 
The key to getting the most fuel efficiency out of the LC is to drive like a fighter pilot. :)

No, I don't mean like Tom Cruise kicking in the after burners in Top Gun. I mean consider the principles of energy management. If fighter pilots want to live long, they are always thinking about how much energy they need to add, subtract, or keep in reserve to fly their maneuvers.

IMHO the Toyota designers of this hybrid system are brilliant. They know land drivers tend to over accellerate to get up to speed, waste gas while cruising with lots of throttle intervention, and break too hard to shed energy.

So they gave us a battery to supplement a high torque start, nudge us along at cruise, and capture energy when stopping. If you think about it that way you will quickly realize how much energy you have been wasting and how to leverage the battery to extend your miles in our world. Accelerate, maintain, deccelerate.

Of course, another advantage of the hybrid is that the battery energy reserve is also there for high energy maneuvers. If MPGs are not the objective, you can always put it in sport mode and have some fun!
 
The key to getting the most fuel efficiency out of the LC is to drive like a fighter pilot. :)

No, I don't mean like Tom Cruise kicking in the after burners in Top Gun. I mean consider the principles of energy management. If fighter pilots want to live long, they are always thinking about how much energy they need to add, subtract, or keep in reserve to fly their maneuvers.

IMHO the Toyota designers of this hybrid system are brilliant. They know land drivers tend to over accellerate to get up to speed, waste gas while cruising with lots of throttle intervention, and break too hard to shed energy.

So they gave us a battery to supplement a high torque start, nudge us along at cruise, and capture energy when stopping. If you think about it that way you will quickly realize how much energy you have been wasting and how to leverage the battery to extend your miles in our world. Accelerate, maintain, deccelerate.

Of course, another advantage of the hybrid is that the battery energy reserve is also there for high energy maneuvers. If MPGs are not the objective, you can always put it in sport mode and have some fun!

“I feel the need, the need for speed” Sorry, couldn’t help myself.

In your previous post I believe you stated the LC will use the motor below 15 mph but the info Yanu posted for me to read gives me a different impression. The motor helps “launch” the LC and then the engine takes over.

I definitely drive with RPM targets and not drive too aggressively.

I need to figure out how to get my instrument cluster to show me the motor “in use” indications. I’m pretty sure I have the turbo gauge in view.

And finally, the average mpg indicated now is 18.0. I think that is because I drove it back and forth to airport a couple of times (25 miles round trip, mostly 4 lane) using the aforementioned rpm targets. The other driver in the family, who does the bulk of LC operations, is not so pedal conscious. 😀
 
This is the screen layout I use.
 

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So I've been using ECO for the last three tanks of gas (closing in on 1,000 miles) and kept my driving routes / times the same.

My per tank average has climbed from about 22 to 24 MPG, my vehicle average (I have about 5.5K total) is up to 22.6 MPG, and my absolute best drive of more than a couple miles (23 miles in this case) got 29 MPG, though admittedly there was essentially zero traffic and I hit every light.

BUT...I've also noticed that even a short stretch of having to use throttle aggressively to get around traffic, or stop and go that isn't a crawl (like light to light for more than a block) destroys the gas mileage, even if you then have a longer stretch of good conditions.

Also as said above, ECO does not prevent a hard acceleration when needed.

So at the end of the day, I do believe you can get 29 MPG out of an LC; IF you're on flat terrain, can maintain speeds keeping RPMs below 2K, and don't use hard acceleration. But given that it's almost a rectangle on wheels, I'll take that.

I also tried COSmurf's technique of using sharp shallow throttle movements to get max electric boost; I'm not very good at it yet. I'm getting pretty consistent max electric boost (which I rarely see otherwise) but am not good at modulating the throttle to avoid getting turbo boost yet.

I don't intend to drive this way all the time necessarily, but I do enjoy exploring the limits of the car's capability so I have all the tools in my kit so to speak. If I'm ever in a situation where I find myself further between gas stations than I thought, or a long trip in which money is more important than time, I know how to maximize the vehicles capabilities.
I’m very happy you’re finding this stuff helpful. Regarding the throttle modulation, I kind of do the sharp but shallow-ish or medium push throttle to get full electric boost and then back off of it more gradually when I’m doing city driving where there is more light to light driving. It’s almost like you pulse the pedal but back off as turbo boost starts spooling up unless you need to keep accelerating hard. In city driving I find I’m not usually on throttle for long periods of time and I believe this is what is described in prior posts as Pulse and Glide by BlueCruiser who must be an absolute pro at hybrid driving. This is my very first hybrid and I can’t get 29 MPGs like he seems to be able to get reasonably consistently. I get about 23 MPGs in the city when I mess around with this stuff and am not in a hurry or rush to get somewhere. That’s insane to me… I could get 21-22 MPGs on a super flat highway at steady speed without any brake use in my 4Runner if all conditions were perfect and here I am in my LC getting 23 MPGs with much heavier and 1” larger diameter tires in stop and go city driving!

By no means do I always drive this way but it’s kinda fun to know if I need to extend my tank range or just am not in a hurry this car is capable of getting really good (relative) mileage.

Here I am city driving at 40 MPH with engine off and just electric boost gauge showing assist.
 

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Okay here's an interesting piece of information to add to this issue. I decided to let my tank run down past indicated empty and indicated zero range. I drove maybe another 20 to 25 miles but I didn't keep track of it exactly because I didn't notice exactly when the gauge went to zero.

But the point is I drove it for a while after empty and then just now I brimmed the tank until it's splashed out and put over 19 gallons in assuming I can trust a regulated/ inspected pump.

I usually pump in about 15 gallons if I'm down near empty so this extra reserve in the tank is significant. Also seem surprising that they rate the tank 17.9 but I got over a gallon more than that. I guess some is in the filler neck but still seems like a big discrepancy.

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Now that's what I like to hear!!! 19x23=437!!! It seems everyone is putting in huge reserves these days and capacity is based on first click off of the pump. My Stelvio, like clockwork takes another 1.5 gallons after initial shut off.....go beyond 1.5gallon and it is stuffed pretty quick. That extra 20-25 miles was that extra 1.1+ gallon. NOw how is brave enough to suck the car dry? Do I hear 19.5???!!!
 
Now that's what I like to hear!!! 19x23=437!!! It seems everyone is putting in huge reserves these days and capacity is based on first click off of the pump. My Stelvio, like clockwork takes another 1.5 gallons after initial shut off.....go beyond 1.5gallon and it is stuffed pretty quick. That extra 20-25 miles was that extra 1.1+ gallon. NOw how is brave enough to suck the car dry? Do I hear 19.5???!!!
But I get about 15-16mpg (RTT and 285/70 AT tires ) so I'm still under 300 miles of range. My wife's electric Hyundai has more range. I would like 400mi but that is not happening.
 
Not responsible for you running highly inefficient rubber. Not sure why you off roader types don't just mount up your hardcore rubber for the off road work..like we track guys do with our slicks. Takes 15 minutes to switch over. I know, I know, its all about the LOOK! But at expense of wet weather traction, noise, etc. Nothing worse than a 50+-75% worn off road tire with no sipes.
 
Part of the problem is that the off-road wheels+tires weigh 70 or more pounds apiece. I used to do the track wheel swap like you describe. Not so easy with the LC.
 
I change 22's on my RR all the time with 275/40R22s. RR wheels are notoriously heavy. There are also lift assists. There is also technique where you only need to lift a wheel 1 inch. It seems many of the same people complaining about mileage have put these big heavy setups on that kill everything else. Just playing devil's advocate.
 
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