Installation of Roam Rugged Case on First Edition Roof Rack

Just curious if you tried the fit of the 83L. I was looking at the 95L and now I am thinking the 83L would be better. However, the 83L has an additional 4 inches in length and it looks like you are already pinned at both ends with the cross-bars.

Also do you have any real world fuel economy comparisons to share based on carrying the 95L box versus not?
If you look at the top-down view of the Roam Rugged Mount slots (see pictures in original post above) I believe you could accommodate the extra 4 inches of length by choosing different slots for the bolt down. The interior height of the 95L box is 8.66 inches vs 5.5 inches for the 83L box. The 83L is too shallow to accommodate the items I carry.

Sorry to say that I haven't checked impact on milage. As far as noise and handling, I don't even know it is there.
 
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@PixelMagic, sorry for the super late return to this thread. I’ve had it bookmarked for awhile but have been using my armada of Pelican protector and storm cases to date. I thought of sending you a private message, but my question may help others so here goes.

I’ve got 2 of these and mount sets on order now w/ credit from a bunch of GovX transactions. Looking at your photos though, my math doesn’t seem to translate well into practical application. If you wouldn’t mind sharing your earned expertise on a couple of things, I’d be most appreciative.

1) Did you relocate any cross bars to positions not already drilled for the crossbars? I installed a 5th bar, but your most forward and rear bars seem closer to the front and rear cowls than mine.

2) You mention that 2 would not fit side-by-side, and I believe you since simple math shows a max of about 2” between installed boxes. My second one is destined for the rhino on my Polaris. But, it got me thinking about lid thickness, and I was curious if you knew how tall the lid is from hinge to top?

3) How’re you liking it? I’ve been spoiled by Pelican and was fortunate enough to take ownership of a dozen + military retired cases. This is my first time trying anything else and reviews on ROAM’s water and dust ingress are polarized. My intent is to run it onboard until it falls apart, so ingress is a concern for me.

Thanks again! Best of luck.
 
Hello @DubDub !

I have the First Edition roof rack with 4 cross rails. I moved the back most cross rail to the back of the LC 250 roof rack.
The Lid is 3 inches tall, but there are also raised ribs for about another 3/8".

I like it very much. Good depth/storage capacity for my needs. I believe the FE roof rack is rated for 165lbs (75kg) Dynamic and 600lbs (272kg) Static.

I haven't had extensive / extreme use of the carrier, but in my experience, it is well made with no water or dust ingress.

Send me a Private Message if I can answer additional questions.

Mark
 
After some back and forth with the ROAM team I have decided to go with the extreme option here. Their support team is amazing, and instead of just providing CAD renderings like Pelican, they actually provided images of physical measurements for me to make my decision. Here soon I will be the guinea pig installing the 83L. The sub-8" height was the deciding factor. Will post the happenings in here once I have it on site.
ROAM 83L Mounting Tolerances.webp
 
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Update on 83L install: received case and mounting brackets. All looks to be in good order. I purchased CRES and black coated CRES hardware in 5/16 size a week ago. My OEM crossbar slots are measuring in at 7/16” (I’m 99% sure, it wasn’t the critical measurement when the brackets measured smaller), but I figured the mounting brackets would be the limiting factor. Did some measurements as soon as it showed up and the mounting brackets openings are measuring just shy of 3/8”. The carriage bolts will hold in those openings, but the squared edge is just short of gaining purchase with the widths of rail and bracket combined.

Got to thinking and did a measurement of my 5/16 carriage bolts. Turns out they are just a tiny bit shy of 5/16” corner to corner. This leads me to believe that 3/8” carriage bolts would be just as shy, and thus fit the mounting brackets just shy of 3/8” slots/opening. Problem: no one carries 3/8” x 3/4” long carriage bolts in CRES, just zinc and galvanized. This is a no-go for me since I plan to mount long-term. Shopping online as we speak, will provide a good write-up w/ pics once I’ve sourced the material.
 
I finally got the 83L installed on the LC. I ran into a few unforeseen hurdles getting this thing mounted properly, but I will try to keep this post brief and focus on how to not run into those issues. For starters though, thank you @PixelMagic for all of the info on this. I have been a Pelican guy for so long now, it's nice to see another company showing up and putting out quality alternatives. Before I get into the logistics of this install, here's a few post-install pictures (The FDE Pelican is a drill-through of an old Storm IM31 that has been beat to death. Plan to properly install a Protector in that location, but this worked for test fitting). Scroll past them for details specific to actual install.

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Ok, so now onto the pertinent details of this install. I nerded out on this so hard, even breaking out my CAD software while awaiting the case, but it all boils down to one critical measurement. The distance between Rail 1 and Rail 5. That measurement is 39-3/8". Nevermind that spacing is inconsistent between rails, nevermind that the space between Rail 1 and the trailing edge of the forward fairing is different than the distance between Rail 5 and the leading edge of the rear fairing. 39-3/8" is all that matters:

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Which leaves you with two options:

IMG_6355 5.jpeg


In hindsight, I wish I had made alterations to install IAW the yellow line above. I did not because I believed that the carriage bolts might impact the bottom of the case. This is because the bottom of the case has indentations that provide and additional 1/8-1/4" of space for the carriage bolts to travel up, and my measurements were only giving me about 1/16" of space. After final install, however, I found that measurement to be 1/8", which is not concerning:

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Either way, you are either going to slightly overhang the front or rear fairing depending on the mounting slots you use. My biggest concern with my current setup is headwind and leveraging forces on a mount that has most of the weight floating forward of the rail. I did a test drive up to around 70mph today with weather creating 30-40mph winds. I did not experience anything concerning, but my engineer brain will probably drive me to change to the other slots at some point.

For the mounts, you will need to use 3/8" x 3/4" stainless steel carriage bolts. I opted for nylon threaded lock nuts and stainless flat washers. You could probably use lock washers, but the threads are already flush with standard lock nuts so you would likely need to use low profile lock nuts or standard nuts if you go that route. I torqued everything down to 10 lb-ft with blue thread locker, I am not concerned.

Because the OEM rails are slotted for 7/16" hardware, and the rugged mounts are slotted for 1/4" hardware (supplied), you need to alter the slots by grinding them to accept 3/8" hardware. This size will purchase in the OEM rail slots and the threads/necks of the bolts will pass through the mount slots. Make the expansion toward the front and back of the mounts since the measurement from front mount slot to rear mount slot comes in at 1/8 - 1/4" shy of the critical 39-3/8" rail distance. This will close that gap to a negligible amount.

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Once I was able to pass the neck through the mount slots, I masked and sprayed the exposed steel with some Rustoleum. They will be hidden, so I was not too worried about color match and used what I had available in my garage.

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One final look at my mounting locations. Front:

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Back:

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Initial impressions: Like I said, I got it up to around 70mph in some crummy weather. The OEM roof rack is pretty silent for me in a very windy location (OBX), but it does generate some noise at higher speeds. Honestly, I think the windshield is louder than the rack. There was a subtle increase in noise with the headwind, but nothing beyond what I consider reasonable when weighed against all of the other LC noise makers. Most importantly, it does not create drag that I can feel. At only 8" that isn't too surprising, but nice to have confirmed. I love the gas struts on the case, but they do push the lid to 90 degrees, which makes reaching the lid for closure difficult. I think the box is of excellent quality, but it is a little bit of a softer material than my Pelican protectors. That isn't to say that it is inferior, only that it will likely scratch much easier (not something I worry about since I put these types of cases through the things they were made to do). I strongly recommend giving them consideration.

For my fellow military/veterans. It is pretty well known that Pelican offers a 15% discount through IDme. ROAM does a 10% discount through GOVX. These things are still expensive, but 10% on $600 worth of kit is pretty rad IMO. I will update if anything changes or if I run into a situation where I feel like my mounting points should be absolutely avoided. Happy trails.

-DubDub
 
Quick update for anyone who may be interested. I've been back to nerding out on my mileage reporting in my effort to resolve why my DTE indicated is so far off. Off-topic for this thread, but the last significant change to my vehicle was the Roam 83L roof case.

I took just shy of a 1mpg hit putting on the 83L. With mounts and box, it sticks up about 9.5" from the top of the FE roof rack. Not a major impact, but noteworthy.
 
Thanks for the updates, @DubDub and @PixelMagic ! Very helpful.

I ended up doing something similar with the 83L box and Rigid Mounts. I did not get a 5th cross-bar and just spread the bars to both ends from the middle (i.e., I have no cross-bar #3 in your photo above). I can't imagine that will cause any problems with the limited weight I will put up there. I could not find an optimal solution with either carriage bolts or t-tracks due to the wide opening of the OEM rack slot and the fact I was only willing to settle for stainless steel. I ended up using M8 bolts that came with a tie-down set I had purchased earlier that work perfectly due to the 18mm bolt height, and I added M8 nylon lock nuts. The M8 bolts fit fine and did not require any grinding. I used the larger washers that came with the tie-down set to ensure weight distribution for the nut (see the photos attached).

The one mpg hit seems reasonable to me as well, but I still have not been on a trip since I installed these so will update with my own results in the next few months.

Next, I am experimenting with locks for the mounts and case with some marine-grade Abloy locks on order. If anyone has a good solution, maybe you can save all of us some time.
 

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Thanks for the updates, @DubDub and @PixelMagic ! Very helpful.

I ended up doing something similar with the 83L box and Rigid Mounts. I did not get a 5th cross-bar and just spread the bars to both ends from the middle (i.e., I have no cross-bar #3 in your photo above). I can't imagine that will cause any problems with the limited weight I will put up there. I could not find an optimal solution with either carriage bolts or t-tracks due to the wide opening of the OEM rack slot and the fact I was only willing to settle for stainless steel. I ended up using M8 bolts that came with a tie-down set I had purchased earlier that work perfectly due to the 18mm bolt height, and I added M8 nylon lock nuts. The M8 bolts fit fine and did not require any grinding. I used the larger washers that came with the tie-down set to ensure weight distribution for the nut (see the photos attached).

The one mpg hit seems reasonable to me as well, but I still have not been on a trip since I installed these so will update with my own results in the next few months.

Next, I am experimenting with locks for the mounts and case with some marine-grade Abloy locks on order. If anyone has a good solution, maybe you can save all of us some time.
I'm glad you found a metric alternative! I ordered stainless 3/8-3/4 bolts and hardware on Amazon. Only took 48 hours to have in hand. I agree though, nothing shy of CRES was going to be good with me.

I am interested how you are fitting it with that forward mount positioned so far back. Maybe that was just a test fit to show hardware?

I can take a couple pictures this evening of the locks I wound up using. The mount locks were easy to source as a standard 3/8" lock works just fine. The hasp opening for the case itself is much smaller, and recessed to a degree that fitting a standard size lock is near impossible. I went with a brass cased smaller brinks or master, can't remember. If I have to replace it every year or so I am fine with that.

I worked on ships for a long, long time. Stainless and brass are the way to go. No matter what you get, the internals will eventually die. No amount of lubrication and cyclic operation can prevent it. My plan is to routinely unlock and lock the mount locks every month or less. The moment I feel binding or resistance will be when I replace both of them with new. I'll hit you with the pictures later.

EDIT: I notice that your rugged mount is significantly different than the 83L mounts I ordered from ROAM. I am curious to know if that is why you are able to mount it so far back. I may need to reach out to ROAM again.
 
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I think one of the main differences between the Roam and Pelican cases is the technology used to mold them- the Roam cases are blow molded where the Pelican cases are rotational molded? If this is true, one of the differences is stability in heat: rotomolded products tend to be more stable. You can see the difference in the effect on cost and stability via a Yeti (rotomolded) cooler and a Lifetime (blow molded) cooler. One is 4-500 and the other is a buck and a quarter at Walmart. Both perform similarly when new. Over time WHEN SUBJECTED TO HEAT, the Lifetime cooler's lids tend to bow and begin to loose their seal against the body.

I am curious if warmer area LC residents using Roam cases that have accumulated a couple-three years are showing any effects from heat?

Big desert lover here is the reason for asking, hope you three have zero issues using the heck out of your cases!
 
I think one of the main differences between the Roam and Pelican cases is the technology used to mold them- the Roam cases are blow molded where the Pelican cases are rotational molded? If this is true, one of the differences is stability in heat: rotomolded products tend to be more stable. You can see the difference in the effect on cost and stability via a Yeti (rotomolded) cooler and a Lifetime (blow molded) cooler. One is 4-500 and the other is a buck and a quarter at Walmart. Both perform similarly when new. Over time WHEN SUBJECTED TO HEAT, the Lifetime cooler's lids tend to bow and begin to loose their seal against the body.

I am curious if warmer area LC residents using Roam cases that have accumulated a couple-three years are showing any effects from heat?

Big desert lover here is the reason for asking, hope you three have zero issues using the heck out of your cases!
I considered all of this as well. Too many DoD issued TBIs and can't recall the difference in composition off the top of my head, but I can see the logic. I own A LOT of pelican protector 1700, 1720 and 1750 cases from my time in uniform and seeing their value as a private consumer. I also inherited a few Pelican storm IM cases in various sizes. The only difference in those two lines are the handle placements and latch designs. I looked at Pelican's cargo series of cases, but they are just different in almost every way to what I was after. I am a diehard Pelican guy, through and through, so my observations come with a bit of bias.

With all of that said, the best Pelican has to offer is in those Protector series cases. Comparing the ROAM to the Protector is not night and day, but the protector is definitely more solid. The ROAM is more robust. The ROAM is softer, but thicker. I know from experience that you don't store anything in a Pelican, in the elements, that you don't want to freeze or fry. They're just thinner and the interiors are more susceptible to external temp swings. I think that the ROAM will best that. From my research I believe that the ROAM cases are outsourced, meaning I think they are made overseas for ROAM Adventure Co. Pelican makes everything stateside. Lots to consider, and the cost is not so different that you could ever think that the ROAM is budget by comparison.

Hopefully this thing withstands my southern climate well. If not, lesson learned and back to what I know. I will roll with a Pelican Protector 1700 and ROAM 83L mounted on my roof until I know. I am 100% certain my future grandkids could use my Pelican though.
 
The fit works fine and the photos show the final install. I will take some more photos later and post.

The stainless steel is non-negotiable. We have a house on the OBX northern 4WD and know the perils of zinc coating. I do not want to have to grind off these bolts someday. Same goes for the locks.
 
The fit works fine and the photos show the final install. I will take some more photos later and post.

The stainless steel is non-negotiable. We have a house on the OBX northern 4WD and know the perils of zinc coating. I do not want to have to grind off these bolts someday. Same goes for the locks.
I'm sending you a PM. We are inhabiting the same area of the world apparently
 
I considered all of this as well. Too many DoD issued TBIs and can't recall the difference in composition off the top of my head, but I can see the logic. I own A LOT of pelican protector 1700, 1720 and 1750 cases from my time in uniform and seeing their value as a private consumer. I also inherited a few Pelican storm IM cases in various sizes. The only difference in those two lines are the handle placements and latch designs. I looked at Pelican's cargo series of cases, but they are just different in almost every way to what I was after. I am a diehard Pelican guy, through and through, so my observations come with a bit of bias.

With all of that said, the best Pelican has to offer is in those Protector series cases. Comparing the ROAM to the Protector is not night and day, but the protector is definitely more solid. The ROAM is more robust. The ROAM is softer, but thicker. I know from experience that you don't store anything in a Pelican, in the elements, that you don't want to freeze or fry. They're just thinner and the interiors are more susceptible to external temp swings. I think that the ROAM will best that. From my research I believe that the ROAM cases are outsourced, meaning I think they are made overseas for ROAM Adventure Co. Pelican makes everything stateside. Lots to consider, and the cost is not so different that you could ever think that the ROAM is budget by comparison.

Hopefully this thing withstands my southern climate well. If not, lesson learned and back to what I know. I will roll with a Pelican Protector 1700 and ROAM 83L mounted on my roof until I know. I am 100% certain my future grandkids could use my Pelican though.
Thanks for any information you share. I am trying to avoid buying a roof top anything else currently but think I may lose that battle. After that, this is preparing for the buy once, cry once experience which both cases are spendy enough to require. Thanks!
 
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